23-08-2011 Timbuktu

Tuesday 23-08- 2011 we left from Via Via hotel to Timbuktu. Early morning we got up, had coffee and Stephanus, Mariana, Hans and Elisme did their moment of silence.

Coen and Shanhaz had breakfast . Shanhaz told Elisme that the internet connection was working. Elisme went to post the next Blog. The connections here in West Africa can sometimes drive you round the bend. Just when you think you have everything ready to post, no connection 3 days later they fix it. This morning we were lucky it worked perfectly. There was a mail for Mariana from the new teacher Nerine. “Dit het Mariana se dag gemaak”.  Thanks to all the Children who contact and mail us, this keeps us going. The photos we receive make us still feel part of the family.

Timbuktu is associated with mysterious beauty, learning and above all wealth. (the forbidden city)  Elisme was always fascinated by Timbuktu or Timbouctou or Tombouctoo what spelling you prefer. The saying “Going to Timbouctoo” the end of the earth or to hell. That made her to insist on seeing TIMBUKTU.

the road is POTHOLES but the view.

To get to Timbuktu is not so easy. When we were at Sleeping Camel an Italian came back and said he didn’t make it to Timbuktu. We could not understand WHY? After the road we travelled today we know.

The road started with a tar road, or shall I say a patched tar road and then patched again and then patched again with POTHOLES between the patches.

Rich farmer with his herd at a water hole

A friendly farmer waving at us.

At Douentze the dirt road started. This is supposed to be semi desert, much as our Karoo. We had potholes and low water bridges filled with water like rivers. The vehicles managed quite easily, but what the damage will be that we will see later. Then the corrugation started. Hans always says he can take potholes, bad roads but corrugation is worse on a vehicle. That we had enough of today, 20 km. we lay off in an hour. Therefore the last hundred km took us 5 hours. We arrived at Korioume from where we’ll have to take the ferry across the Niger River. Just to find out we must go to another place. To get there was a sandy road. We saw some vehicles standing at this point but no sign of the Ferry. The boys got out talked to the people there. They said the ferry will arrive in an hour’s time. The kids were at every window of the girls as always. Mariana was giving Super C’s today. I think she saw they have a cold. Elisme was painting her toe nails. The kids were fascinated. They hold their nails to be painted. Elisme only did the middle finger of each girl, the whole village girls came for a “MIDDLE FINGER MANICURE” Mariana had tear in her eyes watch  the girls, admiring their hands. Small thing that made the girls’ day. Meanwhile the boys were having a conversation with the guys waiting for the Ferry. They were so friendly and very interested in the vehicles. They believe in Toyota Cruiser and didn’t t think the Land Rover is that good. They wanted to see the engine .   Again the Landy had to prove itself. When the Ferry arrived the cars did a chase for a place on the ferry. All the vehicles must reverse to go on the ferry. Stephanus and then Coen last Hans, that was quite a process, very steep as you go on the ferry. We could not believe our eyes; here comes a Mercedes through the sand. Elisme said to Hans this must be a 4x4 Mercedes, just then it got stuck. They used man power to push it out of the sand. Then the front wheels got stuck and the ramp was to steep. They asked if Hans will pull it on the Ferry. Coen provided a rope and Stephanus opened the bonnet of the Land Rover to make sure if the rope breaks it would not break the windscreen.

 Stephanus conducted the process and voila, there, the Mercedes was out and on to the Ferry. Once again the Land Rover proved itself.

The sun was setting and it will soon be dark. To get into Timbuktu after dark will be a disaster for us. One of the local guys with a car on the Ferry, offered that we follow him, he will take us to the camping site. Hans waited on the other side, he came past and we followed him. From the ferry to the town Timbuktu was 20 km.

The Auberge were one of the first buildings on the road as we enter Timbuktu. Once again the people were very hospitable, nothing was too much. They even brought a flask with boiling water and cups for coffee. They cleaned the bathroom and offered a bathroom in the Auberge. Tables and chairs were put out for us on the terrace.  Soon everybody was settled and ready for Supper. We decided everybody will prepare their own, seeing that it was late.

DIFFERENT BUILDING STYLE

The owner Mr. Mohammed, offer to take us to all the places of interest. He suggested that we take a guide, we will be less hassled. The SA build library is a real land mark in Timbuktu. Neatly build modern but still fits in to the building style of Timbuktu, the sad is there is no plaque on it stating it was done by SA.

The mosque from the outside is well kept, same mud style as the rest of this area. We are by now use  that we are not allowed in, but this time even Shanhaz who is a dedicated moslem, was not allowed in. Elisme finds this very strange, what about heaven? No women?

The market was a colourfull hub of people selling buying and pushing.they haven’t seen tourists lately, because of the saverty issue. Everybody load their prices, so keen to make a little money. They just don’t except no for an answer. Our guide had his handsfull to get them to leave us.

The communication system in Mali is excellent, between the people. Mohammed phoned his brother to gain so information on the Dogon roads. His brother told him   , he saw us coming in to Douentza. They new where we were from  Bamako and every place  and movement we were making. I am so glad we ‘re from SA. We were never threatend, I don’t know if the Amerikaans and other Europeans can say the same. Why ant they visiting Mali anymore?

Shanhaze prepared us a lovely Dinner, on the terrase Mariana laid a table, with candle light and stars that was so bright we felt so close to God.

Long after al our evening rituals, we were sitting and watching the stars. Wimcar would have enjoyed it so much. He would be able to tell us which star is which.

Gate Way to Timbuktu

The night was still very hot but a little better as the previous night.after a good rest we were ready for the 200 km and Ferry crossing to Douentza. The only difference to Tuesday was, we now know what to expect. A very BAD ROAD.

Thursday morning we left early for the 2 nd Ferry. Hans took some pictures at the entrance of TIMBUKTU with the land infront.

On the road we say this man and his Camel

Arriving at the Ferry, just to find there is 2 busses and a truck before us. We are 3 cars so we will have to wait for the next Ferry. Once again, children knocking at your window, asking for a “cardouw” 3 hours of pretending your are blind and deaf. Thanks for the aircon, your windows can be closed and you don’t feel the heat. 8 o’clock in the morning and the temperature already on 36 degrees. Our guide was saying yesterday, it’s a bit cooler, I don’t know what they do when it’s hotter.

After another bumpy 200 km we reach Douentza. Mat gave us a name for camping. Dogon Camp site, nothing much. We al decided that is nothing better in Douentza.

Coen and Shanhaz couldn’t see camping on the muddy terrain, they took a room. Stephanus, Mariana, Hans and Elisme sleep in their vehicles so the mud wasn’t an opstickle for them.

Elisme was soon set up table gas bottles, pots and water to start the evening meal. Here menu tonight is cottage pie and green  banana  for pudding. The bananas here is green but very sweet and tasty. She even took a picture of the beautiful girl and so smart dressed selling the bananas.

The candle light dinner with surprise cocktail by Hans went of well. That made that everybody had a peaceful and very good rest.

TOMORROW DOGON COUNTRY