We say goodbye to Mauritanie

We do our last villages and say goodbye to Mauritania

Chinquitte we left early morning.

Quadane the disappearing city of the 11 Century was our next visit. Early morning we left Chinquitti on route to Quadane. The desert was still our partner on this route.

Chinquitti the 7 th most holy city in Moslem religion

Quadane the plan lay out of 11 century city 

The name Post of dying city Quadane

20 Km. Of desert sand and we saw a mountain. The hidden city on the mountain, as we approach slowly we could see the stone buildings. Most of the buildings were ruins now. To our surprise as we walk down the corridors, people still live here.

At the entrance gate there is a City plan.  Entering through the gates gives you goose pimples to think this city accommodate thousands of people centuries alive. Their family crests are proudly on the walls

The door of one of the family holy rooms

 Hans and Stephanus looked for a tree {desert} found a shrub with lots of Hugh thorns. Staving as it was long past lunch time, the heat was not a problem. Mariana and Elisme presented a lovely spread with now, part of the ritual EARL GREY TEA. Elisme says her children will not believe her drinking tea. May be its desert, but as Forest Gump says “keep going” even if it’s on tea.

The Caravan of a rich farmer where we visite

they present us dates to us.

3 cars stopped, they started talking to Hans. They realised we were tourists from “Afrique de Sud” they insist we must come for lunch at their place. We had to follow them. Hans was not scare at all, Stephanus and Elisme were not so comfortable and Mariana decided  rather to stay in the car.  One thing that Western women must realise that in this ARABIC world a woman has a very low profile. Elisme and Mariana find this very difficult. Just before I continue, another difficulty is the Eastern toilets. They assure the girls it is very hygienic, but oh my, DIFFICULT, for us growing up in a Western way.

 Back to our visit. They introduce themselves, that’s when we realised they are high profile people, Advocate, Doctor, Banker and the owner of this Date Farm. The Caravan was beautiful and everybody lying on the coaches {we will call it mattresses} with beautiful cushions.  They were very pleasant and much interested in our home country S.A. We politely refused their lunch invitation. Then they presented us a bunch of very nice dates. We said our goodbyes and left with new friends, exchanging business cards, and promises to follow us on our blog as well as email. Just before we left they gave us a box of spring water.

A Desert rule is you never refuse anybody asking water. Hans and Elisme are not really known for drinking water {Tobias will know, he must force us 15min. Before every meal, he brings them a glass of water.} Tobias this is for you, we drink on average 8 litre of water between the 2 of us. Difficult to explain your thirst.

Desert with al you can see for miles, is the dunes

The only plant thriving in  the desert

Tirjet was our planned next over night. Hans read in “Rough guide to West Africa” author Richard Trillo and Jim Hudged. Their book was a great help to us on this Safarie, but I think they haven’t been at some place for a while. The truth is the Mauritanians do not look after their beautiful desert.

 Rubbish is just left where they use it. The Oases of Tirjet which is supposed to be the most beautiful place, with ferns, hot water springs, palm trees, over hanging rocks with stalactites, is so dirty you cannot stay there. Hans was so depressed. I wonder if people realise what they are doing to their country. Being an ex teacher, Elisme was just wondering, why don’t they start teaching the children at school level, to keep their village clean. Do not drop anything. Then everything will get better in Mauritania. Disappointed we decide to go back to Atar to Justins Bab Sahara camp. We need to sort out washing and the girls need some tender loving care.

 The Desert is not for ‘sissies’. As they say “another hard day in Africa”

Monday morning was an early morning leave for Nouakchott. We must sort out Senegal’s entre. Ready to leave, it was just here where the trouble starts. The  Cruiser of Stephanus refuse to starts. Between him and Hans they tried everything, jumpers, phone Arno in SA. He tries to explain what they must do. The Cruiser just refuses to starts. Bush mechanic, come to help.

The alternator,” the light is not working.” Stephanus and Hans decided to buy a new battery. Bush mechanic says the Cruiser will go for an hour then bhoooooom and there it will stand. True word.

360 km to Nouakchott, and that only a wiring mistake. The landy was a real working horse.

 Stephanus and Hans never knew that the desert could be so tough on a the vehicle. That they coursed a short on the wires That made the Cruiser refuses to go one step further. The only way to get the Cruiser in Nouakchott, was to get the Landy to recover it for 360 km.


 The Cruiser did not do anything wrong, the people who did the wiring, didn’t know how tough the desert will be.

Coen and Shanhaz left a day before us for Nouakchott. They organised camping for us at Augerge Menata. Thanks to management, they send a vehicle to lead us they way to the camp. Stephanus, Mariana and Hans were grateful to stop after a killing 360 km. Cruiser and Landy

Tea with the ambassedor

  Tuesday we were invited by the SA Ambassador Hannes Spies for tea at the Embassy. 

They were all so helpfull and supported us with whatever the need was. South Africa can be proud with an Embassy with sufficient people like the staff of the Mauritanian Embassy. This was really a home from home. South Africans wonder what the Foreign affairs Embassies are doing for ordinary South Africans. We had firsthand experience, in distress and they lend a helping hand. Special thanks to Hannes, Derrick and Ascha. Next time out of your home country remember to visit your Embassy.

Bush machanic get the Cruisers wiring working 

Soon we were helped with a mechanic to sort out the Cruiser and the other 2 vehicles.  

Evening out in Nouakchott

With everything this was another experience and eye opener for Stephanus and Mariana with very little tools; he got the Wiring of the Cruiser sorted. The welcome starter sound of the Cruiser was a relief to all 6 of us, but most of al  to Stephanus and Mariana

Stephanus, Mariana, Hans and Elisme enjoying lunch on the stoop of a Restuarant in Nouakchott

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Between al this we were exploring the city. here we are having "SLAP CHIPS" on the stoop of a restuarant.Thursday evening we had a lovely Dinner at the house of the Ambassador; Derrick was the “braaier” the boys couldn’t improve on that. The chef really impressed the girls with her colourful and soothing on the pallet display. They all made us feel so special. Proud to be a South African, with such could people.

We said our goodbyes with regretted, but we know the images of South Africa are well  looked  after in Mauritania.

Hands up for the South African embassy and STAFF.

This is how you load a vechile

Our goodbyes to Mauritania were pleasant. After the 6 st road block, the Gendamari, replied when we said “Afrique de Sud” Bafana Bafana, Suma, DE KLERK. We then new Mauritania know about SA.

The border post is waiting.

Senegal “ DIE ERFGELDVRETERS “ are on their way..