Senegal to The Gambia06-08-201 Historic Circles – to The Gambia border Post

06-08-2011 blog W Historic Circles – to The Gambia border Post.

We left Gerhard’s secure home Thursday morning, not knowing what was waiting for us.

Dakar’s traffic is a nightmare; there are no rules, as Piet said: “The one whose car’s nose is in first may drive.” You must be careful not to get a blow on your nose. Very few cars do not have scratches and bumps on them.

Beautiful Boabab trees 

With all this in mind Hans and Stephanus took the road to Barra. Coen and Shanhaz were staying with a friend and would meet us at the Baobab Trees.  At the cement factory about 30 km away from where we were staying, Coen came on radio, they were behind us. Dakar is 40 km long.  There is no difference between Dakar and all the other cities this far in West Africa. You see fancy restaurants and buildings and the shacks and the mansions and the spaza shops. This is how Dakar is stretched out for 40 kmThe GPS had no coordinates today, we were driving referring to our book and the little information Coen could find out about the Historic Circles. Later we were asking as we were going along, the road became a small farm road. Just when we came up the hill, down at the bottom there was a river we had to cross. Coen was leading the way, he had no choice but to get out and walk through. They thought it was safe to go through. Shanhaz did a perfect job, driving through the water. The rest managed easily.

Our way was winding through little villages, with their houses very close to the road. As we were approaching the village where the stone circles are, Hans as always saw them first. He took out his binoculars, not sure of what he is seeing. Coen went on and ask in the village. Then Hans directed him to the circles. They were fenced.

The village children were all coming to say hello and asking for a gift. Shanhaz tried to phone the telephone number on the gate. They said they’re coming. They can’t find the key, somebody said, but we must pay him and get through the fence. Coen and Shanhaz gave it up; we just took photos and looked at the circles from the fence side.

On our way, I must say the people of this side of Senegal are good farmers; they all work every piece of land available. The woman and men work in the lands. We could not figure out what they are planting. Stephanus got out and even smelt the plants.  At the camp the evening Stephanus continued his investigation, he found a peanut on the plant. So peanuts it must be.

mosque in the village, strange towers.

Every village has a mosque, 90% of the population is Moslems

Chief gave us permission to camp in the peanut fields.

It was getting late; the boys decided we must start looking for a camping place. The best thing Hans suggested is to go in to the village and ask the CHIEF to camp in his area.  Somebody took us to the CHIEF, Coen and Hans explained that we want to camp in his area. He was quite willing, after paying him something; he sent one of his men to show us where to camp.

This was in the middle of one field. The boys was not to keen to do that. As far as the eye could see it was farm land. So we had no choice but to put up camp right there.

The clouds were building up. Mariana was due to do Dinner. Stephanus, Hans and Elisme all started helping her. She prepared a lovely stroganoff with rice. Pudding was mangos and this time with Amarula that Piet gave us, it all went down nicely. Then the clouds were really getting very dark, dish washing was a real team effort.  As Stephanus and Mariana put in the table and the first raindrops started falling.

Coen and Shanhaz had their shower and were just ready to go to their tent under the tree. Elisme was very worried about them; the weather was looking like a severe thunder storm.

Hans had managed to do a quick shower and Elisme joined him. His shower works perfectly and so easy, he just fit the nozzle to the tank on the roof and there we go: hot water! The cylinder is black and therefor the sun heats the water the whole day. As they jumped in the Landy the rain came pouring down. This was a serious storm. Albie, the tent did surviv, but the water still runs down the front doors, but that is a minor problem if you sleep dry. Coen and Shanhaz were not so lucky. Their tent was leaking and they had a difficult night, but as always took it in their stride.

Friday morning we headed for the border at Farafenni to cross to the Gambia. We heard it’s an easy crossing.  They assured us that the Ferry that must take us to Banjul in the Gambia is free.

Sorry to say but NO BORDER CROSSING IN AFRICA IS EASY. The exit from Senegal was quite smooth, except for them stamping the wrong papers.  Paying another 5000 FCFA for leaving their counter, we could exit.

Then started the 4 hour trying to get all the documents sorted. As Cindy was saying, they really don’t know what to do with SA passports. They seldom handle them. So let’s excuse them on that, but it takes a day off your Safari.

With a Tourism stamp in our passports we left. And 20 km further at a police stop, they informed us we must go back to the immigration office, now we need a VISA.   2 hours later and 25$ per person later we left.

 Now for the ferry.  Oh my, did we know what was waiting. Everybody is your friend and everybody wants to help. We are in the queue, but from the right side all the trucks and cars pass. When we ask them: how does the system work. They assure us that the system works. Just to find out, standing in front of the gate with tickets which we have bought for the Ferry, all the cars come in from the side and YOU WAIT. Now for the paying: Hans and the rest refuse to pay any bribes.  So we wait!!!!!!!! At last we got to the 2nd gate; the official in uniform gave one look.  According to him we must pay for our Luggage. Hans could not understand, we paid for the car and for the passenger, BUT NOW PAY FOR LUGGAGE.  200 Dalas, that is The Gambias currency worth R50 and we WAIT.

Eventually we move to the next gate. Then the official with the green suit assure us he will get us on this Ferry, but please give him a present. No present from SA was good enough, 100 Dalas and there we go.  Just to find there’s another gate.  Now the guy with the black outfit, who spoke to us right back at the queue, is now promising to get us on the ferry. Still, the trucks and cars pass us. He promised to get us on the ferry, but we must give him something. He did and the something was 50 Dalas.

At last Banjul after hours on ferry

Coen and Shanhaz did not make it on this Ferry.  We were packed like sardines, no way can you get out of the car, truck and Mercedes on our sides, side mirrors fold in. Half way on the river the engine cut out. Mariana checked on the GPS: we were going at 3 km. It took us 1 hour and 30 min to get to Banjul. By then Coen and Shanhaz were on the next ferry that took them 30 min.

We found Denton Bridge and waited there for Coen and Shanhaz.

Cindy is the second in charge of the American Embassy0 She invited us to stay with her. We got to her place, yellow walls and a black gate.

It was so nice to get into an airconditioned house. She had a lovely chicken and salad meal for us, at 10 o’clock.  We were dead tired and went to bed straight after our meal.

Flying horse in Cindy's garden, everybody including cindy had a good laugh.

Saturday morning we enjoyed her swimming pool. Hans and Elisme were first in the swimming pool, having their coffee there. Elisme decided to read her book, while drifting on a mattress in the swimming pool. The Hammock was so inviting Elisme moved to that, she was smiling at the flying horse.Soon Stephanus joined them and later Mariana decided it was her turn now.

Cindy took us for a walk down the beach road. Banjul was different from the other cities we have passed so far. There were no papers and plastic bags lying all over the place.

Shanhaz and Coen were doing Dinner that night. Cindy had invited friends: Gordon and Glenda are second in charge of the British Embassy. We had a lovely evening. Mariana laid the table for a feast and Shanhaz’ food complemented the theme. Elisme ended the meal with surprise mango pudding inlayed with biscuits soaked in Amarula.

We exchanged visiting cards and said our goodbyes.

Early Sunday morning everybody was up and having coffee in the kitchen with Cindy.

We headed for George Town, to cross the ferry there. Coen and Shahnaz wanted to see the rest of the Historical Stone Circles.

After leaving Banjul, the country site was beautiful, with lots of palm trees with Baobabs and Palm trees. The bird life is very active lots of Parrots and birds of prey. The humidity was extremely high. The sweat dripped from everybody, like standing in a shower.

Hans told a Policeman at yet another check point, “This is now the 201st check point we passed today. He was quite surprised. His comment was: in SA you have more check points. Hans said: no we have nothing. His comment, “then how do you combat crime?” One wonders.

Stephanus was the unlucky one today. He wasn’t wearing his safety belt and they police instructed him to get off and follow them to the Police station... Mariana called on the radio. Hans decided to go and help Stephanus. He intervened. After asking for a receipt of payment, they decided Stephanus can go.

Hans started the Landy, but then it cut out. So today was our turn for problems. He was talking to the Police Officer and then the car’s hooter went off.  He switched it off and tried again to start; nothing happens. The battery system has a weak connection. He reset and tried to start, it started and cut out. Then Elisme reminded him of the hooter. They realise there is something wrong with the immobilizer.  He got the spare keys and VOILA.  There it started. EVEN IMMOBLISISER BATTERIES CAN GET FLAT IN AFRICA.

George Town: another police check; this time they want us to open everything. Hans asked them what are they looking for, then he can help them. After another half an hour, they were happy and we left.

No camping on this side of the river, so we’ll had to cross with the ferry again. This time it was a pleasure. When we arrived at the port, the ferry was full and just about to leave. We waited, paid and waited.

After 30 min our ferry arrived. All three vehicles were loaded on the ferry. This one was sailing at a speed. 100 Dalas, and we arrived safe on the other side.

20 km further we arrive at the stone circles. A very friendly Old Man welcomed us. We decide to camp under the huge trees for the night. The old man warned us the Stones of the Stone circles have ghosts. He said they will come and visit us, but we never saw anyone.

After a good night’s rest we went to the local market to buy fresh vegetables and see what they have. We got very nice stuff and Hibiscus tea leaves. Paying 200 Dalas for everything, we were ready for the road.

Once again we were having road blocks and check point all the way. Everybody peeps in your vehicle and try to see what they can have. Hans got the saying, when they ask what you brought me from your country. “THE LOVE OF GOD’ that made them ashamed and then let us go.

We checked camping in Velingara but really it was not nice. Everybody decided we would move on and do a bush camp tonight. Hans was checking for a suitable place. The countryside was beautiful here: green grass and huge trees. They stopped, walked in the field and then they decided this will be our overnight camp.

Elisme and Hans were doing Supper tonight. Hans was doing a chicken barbeque in Coen’s COB. Elisme got the girls to peel all the vegetables.  Elisme did the couscous in the Tachines and add the veggies. Before we knew we were in the middle of a rainstorm. The awnings of the Cruiser and the Landy  provided shelter for us. We had a lovely   Meal while it was storming.

Coen and Shanhaz decided tonight they are sleeping in the Cruiser. We all went off to bed: after a rainy shower, everybody was in bed.

Next morning washing dishes and packing up was on the list.

We headed for the border to enter Senegal on our way to the National Park Nikola Koba.  We crossed at a small border post, Bassa, in The Gambia and then entered at Senegal. The officials were really very competent and nice.

Hans phoned Rassie to get a contact in Tambacounda. He set us up with Fallou. We met him at the hotel; he was a very pleasant and professional tour agent. Soon he was phoning for us for better tariffs at the Hotel. Ousman will be our guide, we had to pick him up at Dar Salaam. You cannot enter the park without a guide.

After a long wait and negotiations we entered the park to do the 32 km to the Simenti Hotel. The road was getting worse as we drove on. Later it was more water-filled holes than road. The vehicles cruised through without any problem. We’re in the rainy season now. 2 roads are open in the park, the rest are closed, because of water and trees that

our camp fire under the huge Fig tree in the Park

fell in the road.The 32 km to the Hotel took us 3 hours. Arriving at the hotel, we could see that no maintenance had been done here for years. Later Ousman told us that the hotel  was previously, 18 years ago owned by French people. Then the government took over, since then nothing goes towards maintenance. Mr. Fallou arranged for us to camp. There was no camping site; we could camp wherever we want. A beautiful Wild Fig tree was our choice. They gave us a room’s key to use the bathroom, but there was no water. No diesel to start the engine, they were waiting for the manager. This is no problem for us, we are self equipped to shower and have all our camping equipment. This is our home for 6 months. Here you soon realise little you need to survive and BE HAPPY. You get so close to GOD, you appreciate everything that he made. You constantly know you must say thanks for the privilege.

Being in Muslim countries for the past 2 months. I have been observing a lot. One thing I can say is they are spending a lot of time on prayers. The smallest village has a loudspeaker, that reminds them on different hours to, starting at 4 o’clock in the morning, and the last prayer is 10 o’clock at night. Ramadan is kept by every Muslim. The month of Ramadan they fast, from 5 o’clock they fast the whole day they break it at 8h30 at night.

This made me wonder why, in the Christian countries, you only hear church bells? One thing I did admire of these people; there was no theft and no pick pocketing. Yes, all the kids and everybody that came near your car was  peeping in your car and then asking “give me Money.” They are French speaking, but that phase they know in English. My best reaction was to keep on speaking Afrikaans, then they left, some quite aggressive.

Back to the Park. The humidity in this part of Senegal is extremely high. Stephanus and Hans showered on the hour {the water came on after Ousman fixed the pump}. I forgot to say that they promised a beautiful swimming pool, but it had no water, it was not working.

Hans invited everybody for a beer at the Bar; if I was not thousands of km away I would bet this was Skukuza. The Gambia River flows here, the Bar is built on its banks. The vegetation is tropical, with palm trees and many other plants and trees.

Mariana prepared nice pasta for us and stewed dry fruit with a lovely caramel custard. We all went off toMariana prepared nice pasta for us and stewed dry fruit with a lovely caramel custard. We all went off to bed, armed with water spray bottles and fans, even that didn’t help.

Shanhaz doing Kathy's job BEAUTITION

Wednesday: a day everybody sorted out their vehicles and caught up with the washing. the girls neede tender loving care. Elisme gave Shanhaz a hair cut. [Rosie you wont belief this} Mariana was in for a eye brow shape.You can wear a set of clothes only ONE day. (Maybe only a few hours). 

The hotel was expecting a tour group of 32 from Holland. They arrived and then the generator was working, the manager was on duty, he even came to ask us if everything is OK.

Mariana, Hans and Elisme went for a walk in the park with Ousman. He took us to a hide on the lake. There we saw Crocodile, Bushbuck, Warthog, Crested Crown, Gambian Goose, ground Hornbill, lots of Monkeys and Baboons and Cob.

Oesman told us he is now taking us for a walk. The vegetation was very dense when we came round a corner to an open sunshine spot. We heard a flapping noise and there, like lightning a crocodile moved in the bush, hopefully to the river. We were all in shock; this must be 200m from the river. After that we were very careful.

Shanhaz prepared Couscous for us with Mariana making Canapes with Ox tongue and mustard. Elisme did pudding: Pears and Gambian oranges.

The night was kind, the humidity not so high. Everybody had a good night’s rest. Coffee was again on the stoop overlooking the river. Then it was time to pack up.

We took the 32 km road to the gate. Hans was so lucky to see a Roan antelope. That made up for the BAD road.

Hans and Elisme went to drop Ousman.
Next time MALI