Dogon Country

27-08-2011 DOGON COUNTRY

Friday morning 26 August they left for Dogon country. Everybody was giving their input on which road will be the best to take. Hans and Coen made up their mind.

Hans was brave enough to touch the Crocodile

We’ll first go to the village Borko, where the people and the crocodiles live in harmony. That’s the meaning of Borko. We had a very nice visit. The mayor invited us to her office to meet her and stamped our passport. We paid 3000 CFA for the stamp and meat to feed the crocodiles. The man in charge of the crocodiles, whistled and as we watched the crocodiles came out of the reeds. Nobody ran away, the children were happily playing while the crocodiles crept closer. We were not so comfortable but kept our pause. The only thing he was controlling the crocodiles were a thin stick. He instructed the crocodiles to stay under the trees, if they didn’t listen he, controlled them with a movement of the stick. When the meat arrived, chicken he tipped on the crocks noose, the crock opened his beck and clasped his portion. Satisfied with his meal, he strolled away back to the reeds. One big old crock stayed behind. They invited us to come and touch it. Hans was the only one brave enough to go. I must say he was not so comfortable. I could see, he was wondering how fast he will still be on the 100m. We don’t understand this relationship, but HUMAN  and CROCODILE in BORKO do. This morning will be written in our memories. To tell one day on the old age home’s stoop.

On top of the Escarpment a view on the Desert

This was DOGON country, beautiful the Dogon Escarpment, lots of running water, palm trees. The cliff formation is a photo opportunity around every corner.

The Dogon people are very friendly. Their villages are clean as Stephanus mentioned no rubbish of plastic lying around. They keep the land spotless. They are really an example for the rest of the tribes.

Women are the workers, they do the lands and they do the washing. Where ever there is water, there are women busy washing?

We stop for tea at a beautiful spot. No people in site, within 5 minutes after stopping, here they are. So friendly just trying to communicate with us. After a conversation with hand movements and head shakes, they left us.

Their houses are built in the rocks with mud. You must look very carefully else you will miss it.

Bandiagara was our town to stay. From here we would explore a couple of Dogon villages.

We got a shady camping site Tongona, Erich was the manager. Once again he was fulfilling every request of us. Stephanus, Mariana, Hans and Elisme set up camp. They had reed shading in front of the vehicles.

Millet store houses for men and women

Hans and Stephanus went to explore some Dogon villages. The country site looked like a park, trees, green grass and then the villages. The houses build in there tradition, with mud and pools. They all had a little mud store for the saving of their Millet. In a family the women has her own little pantry (if I can call it that) she stores Millet, maize and peanuts. The man stores ONLY millet. They make beer from Millet.

We crossed a couple of low water bridges, with lots of water flowing over it. The water lilies on the little pools are flowering, it looks like a garden planted by humans. I just remembered GOD planted it, that’s why it’s so perfect.

Our natural Mannequin in the green pastures

The women are caring gala bases on their heads, and walk with the poise of a mannequin in the felt. This looks amazing, a mannequin show in the green pastures.

The Dogon people are proud and friendly people. They work as families on the lands, look after their cattle. The children are playing under the trees, and they never ask for a “cardouw”. The village environment   is neat, with no rubbish lying around.

When they help you they don’t expect a payment. They wave you off friendly.

We got back to camp, just in time of a thunder storm. This time our shelter of grass and leaves did not help. Stephanus pitch up his awning and the boys had their steak braai, rain or not. Piets maize meal came in nicely. Elisme made “pap” even Tommy and Kobus the Free Stators would have been proud on her. Mariana made a nice “Sheba” and Shanaz did a corn and asparagus salad.

The nigh was cooled off and we all had a good rest. Coen had to work on the Cruiser, something about his brakes. Stephanus and Hans went on another expedition to find the Dogon, Pigmies that stays in the rocks high up on the cliffs. The town we were leaving for was Sanga.

Erich agreed to be our guide; this will be a 2 hour drive to the people who built their house high on the plateau. They were diminutive people. Locals speak off pigmies. How they got to their houses is still a mystery. The story is told they used ropes made from Baobab bark and other local vegetation.

Modern hotel, we are having Pineapple juice and water. while waiting for Hans results

Half way to Sanga Hans started to build up a high temperature. He wasn’t feeling good at all. Elisme took over the driving. She decided that Hans must get to a clinic, his condition deteriat by the minute. Erich assured Elisme there is a clinic in Sanga. After the 3 visit of a clinic we got to the laboratory clinic. Hans was treated very professionally, sterilized needles and spotless clean rooms. The doctor said the blood test will take 30 min for the results. We went to a beautiful hotel to drink something cool.

Just here started our ORDEAL with Hans and his building up of a fever. The test came out negative no malaria, BUT start taking Coartem. We carried on to the Plateau this is what we came for.

The Pigmies houses in the cliffs

Look at the Dogon houses at the bottom of the cliffs

The road was bad; Hans wasn’t feeling good at all. When we reached the Plateau, it was worth our while. A waterfall came down the cliff and under neath it was the cave houses. Here words fail to describe what the eye sees. I wish I had Wilbur Smith talent, in one of his books I read he was describing this scene. In my mind’s eye I recalled what I have read.

Hans said this is what he came for, now we can go back. Stephanus was just asking Mariana did you take pictures of everything that we saw. This was a world totally different to what we are use to. I do understand the question HOW DID THEY GET THERE. Mariana was asking where the children played.

Today the Dogon still use it for storage and if a person dies they put them there.

We were so privileged to see the wonder of the Dogon people. According to Erich the Pigmies moved to Burkina Fasi. Don’t know if that is true.

After having lunch in the mountains, Hans took his first dosage of Coartem. We attempt the road back home.

Sunset we arrived at the camp, by now Hans was really feeling bad. His temperature was going very high. Elisme put him in bed with 2 fans blowing on him.

Coen was very worried, he sms Merlinda whose husband is a doctor and did a lot of research on Tropical diseases as they as a family was doing West Africa. Merlinda ended up completing the tripe by herself. Belinda we salute you! Driving West Africa to South Africa as a woman, takes guts.. Johnny replied back, Coartem was the best and will not harm Hans heart condition. That was reassuring. The Coartem can take more than 24 hours to see an improvement. Thanks so much for your concern and help. Coen your help and support on this trip and special with Hans is highly appreciated.

  Elisme woke him for Supper, by now he was too weak to eat himself. He got his second Coartem and 2 disprins to control his fever. Mariana provided ice to put under his neck. By now he was getting the shivers of fever. Elisme was fanning him with one of the fans and spraying him with Jaco’s spray bottle.  2 o’clock Sunday morning he woke up in a puddle of water from perspirations. His temperature was totally out of control. Elisme realised she must get him under a cool water shower. That is easier said than done. He was not aware of what is going on around him. He was asking why he is here. Where is Elisme?  Strange how strong you get when adrenaline kicks in. Elisme nearly carried him to the shower.

Stephanus saying thanks to Erich, who really looked after us.

Coen said there is no way we are moving on. Hans ate his bread roll and orange juice, then his medication. He went to bed, slept for an hour. When he woke up he, said he is now feeling better and we must pack up for Burkina Fasi the Capital city Ouagadougou. He believes there will be better medical facilities.

Views on the way down the Pass

Elisme was driving today. She did a good job. They had to go down a 40 km mountain pass. The next was the border crossings, exit Mali and enter Burkina Fasi. Hans was now drinking a pain stiller, Prontalgine that was helping him. He was going through better, shivers, high fever. He was sleeping most of the road. There was nothing new to the VERY bad roads.

Exiting Mali Coen and Shanhaz had to take a new visa, their expired 27 August today was 28 August. The more they tried to explain we are leaving, the official insisted new Visas for today. After paying CFA 30 000 {R240} new visa our passport where stamped and we good proceed.

Burkina Fasi was a very pleasant border crossing.The officials were friendly and helpful.

After 60 km of bad dirt road, Coen said there is a strange thing in front of him that is greyish TAR ROAD. Everybody was sighing with relief, not for long. Stephanus come on the radio he has a flat tyre. The right front tyre was the problem. They inflated it, as he moved forward, the tyre deflate immediately. They have to change it; Stephanus and Coen were experts on this. 10 min later we were on our way again. Voice on the radio, Stephan’s, “ flat tyre right back”.

Hans was getting worse, still a hundred km to Ouagadougou. Elisme waited for them alongside the road. Mariana and Shanhaz decided Elisme must go, it’s getting dark. Shanhaz drove back to come and tell Elisme.

This was a night mare drive. Soon it was dark; in Burkina Fasi the donkey, bicycles and motor bikes has no reflectors. Sometimes the cars don’t have lights. The busses were coming from the front at a killing speed, and then on your right there was some or other obstacle to watch out for. Twice Elisme nearly hit something on the right and on the left. After a couple of turns they eventually found the hotel.

There was no way that Elisme was camping with Hans tonight. The 6 of them decided it is very late and they will all stay in rooms tonight.

Tuna sandwich was on the menu for Hans and a shower. He took his medication and was off to sleep. His shiver attacks was now every 4 hours, there was an improvement. Elisme was praying that he will have a better night.

Monday morning Coen and Stephanus had their tyres to fix on the program. Elisme and Shanhaz had to take Hans to a clinic. Coen felt we must know what is wrong with Hans.

The medical clinic we went to was very upmarket, like a private hospital in SA. We were told to pay, and then the doctor will see Hans. That was all done and after a couple of minutes we were called in. The doctor did a thorough, examination on Hans. She suggested doing some laboratory tests, testing for several things. After paying again, we were sent to the laboratory. The results will be ready at 4 o’clock.

The tests showed that Hans had white blood plates as an infection and his liver is under stress. No Malaria or any other disease. They were speculating on another tropical mosquito related disease, “dung” hope the spelling is correct. Very much same symptoms but not deadly, no medication, time works it out. The doctor said that it good still be Malaria but because of the Coartem it was killed. The reason why Hans was so bad is the Coartem reacts as if you do have Malaria to kill the bug.

Shanhaz was an angel, with her French she was with Hans and Elisme. She went to the clinic explain to the doctor, waited explain to the Pathologist. Then went with Elisme to DHL document for Louis. Back to the clinic, translating what the doctor is saying to Hans. Her patience was tested. Shanhaz was saying all the time “what must be done, must be done” with a smile. Shanhaz,  Hans and Elisme will remember. Big thanks from our hearts.

God was so great, he blest the medicine Hans was using. He cured Hans after a really bad illness. We praise him for his kindness, and thank him.

Stephanus and Mariana used the bathroom of Hans room, they shared the cost. Thanks for your kind hearts. That all made Hans recovery so much easier.

Hans and Elisme could not have better Safari partner. You only really get to know a person, when times are getting tough. You 4 past the test with flying colours.

Thumbs up for you.

Everybody had time to catch up with Skype, blog and emails. Always so nice to talk to the children. Elisme says she has a physical pain now, that’s because of missing the children. This is the longest she has ever been from here children, the tears are very close to her eyes now.

Tuesday morning everybody packed and ready to leave. Coen has a flat tyre and breakfast was necessity for Coen and Hans. Hans was feeling much better and was now even hungry.

Ghana Border Post

Stephanus and Mariana were only having coffee. They were angels while Coen was having breakfast they pumped his tyre. We were heading for the border Burkina Fasi to Ghana.

Next time Ghana.