19-08-2011 blog MALI -SEGOU
Friday 19 August we woke up at 4 o’clock with thunder. We realise that it was going to rain in a few minutes time. We had to pack up if we don’t want a wet tent and the rest of our camping gear.
Coffee was as always a priority for Elisme. Stephanus woke up and was out of his vehicle packing his camping gear. He went back to bed. Hans and Elisme, armed with 2 mugs of coffee and by now used to biscuits, went to the stoop. Last minute, email s, and blog. Anton was on the list to Skype, haven’t heard his voice in many days. With the snow in Dullstroom photos of all the farms and properties were now first on his list, so it was difficult to track him down.
After the rain at 8 o’clock Stephanus Mariana, Hans and Elisme left, to draw money and do some shopping. We will not be in a big town for 8 days. We are leaving for Timbuktu.
Banks are another matter; you try to draw money, no response. They subtract the amount from your account but you get no cash. Some take VISA and some MASTER CARD. They don’t want to change $. So only Euro’s works. This can be a big problem. Between us we manage.
Today the bank was kind to Elisme she managed to draw money. A few items at the Super market. Meat was looking good, so we all bought. Our deep freezers are not so big, there for a kilo or so must do. The Boys insist on T-bones, for a braai.
Coen and Stephanus had the Cruisers serviced the previous day. Engines wash and ready for the road. Hans called for Coen. Shanhaz said no the Cruiser won’t start. Bottom line don’t wash engines, wet plugs or whatever. After a while they were on there way.
Segou was our next stop, 244km. The road was excellent alongside as we pass villages, they were selling, fresh tomatoes, cucumbers, onions, potatoes and melons. What I can’t understand, we don’t see many schools. Kids are all walking around, maybe its holiday.
The houses are all built with mud. Mali is known for its mud style houses. The mosque du Vendi won first prize in an international Islamic architecture competition. Many French colonial buildings are also seen in Segou., being the former French regime capital.
 |
| Hans and Shanhaz inspecting the hotel where we"ll camp |
Hans and Shanhaz had a few places where we could camp tonight. They decided they’ll inspect them on our way, as we enter Segou. The L’Auberge was by far the best, but no camping. Two Lebanese brothers own the Auberge and the Independence Hotel. Camping was available at the hotel on the road to Mopti. This was a very pleasant hotel, with a beautiful swimming pool, pity it was’nt raining. The camping, like all the hotel camping in Africa, was in the Parking area.
 |
| Independence hotel Camping area |
Mariana made us a lovely meal of mince balls, mash, veggie’s and peas. Pudding was fresh fruit and cream.
After a nice COLD shower [we are now used to} I must say it is so hot in these countries, even Elisme is not missing a nice hot shower. We all went to bed. Tonight was a reasonable evening; just Hans was still suffering from the heat. The noise level never stopped, but you even get use to that.
Stephanus suggested that we all go for breakfast at the hotel. Hans and Stephanus hoped to get bacon and eggs. No bacon but THREE EGGS I think they have there cholesterol boost for the week.
Djenne was our next place, the biggest Clay Mosque in the world is there.
The terrain we pass was where the Niger river split in two legs. The Niger River flows very shallow. Therefore the country side is like swamps. Water is standing all over, the houses are surrounded by water. The bit higher levels they plant maize, rice and wheat.
They were trying to dry the wheat {hobs} on the road side, but with so much rain I doubt.
The houses were al built with mud, the same style. In this country people are poor, you could see it the way they were dressed. The things they were selling. One thing that was selling all long the road is bottles, with liquid. Stephanus was saying he thinks it must be petrol mixed with 2 stroke oil for the motor bikes.
Hans called for a tea break, we found a beautiful open area with trees and less water. Mariana bought avo’s in Bamako, they were just ripe now. The rest of the meatballs with the Avo’s, tomato, cucumbers and cheese, was a feast. The cheese I must tell you about, it’s not Melrose, but the same blocks, not yellow but white, this we use as butter.
Coen was worried about the temperature of the Cruiser; he had the radiator checked in Bamako. The temperature was still going too high. One of the local people came to watch the operation. He or she was wearing beautiful blanket folded luck a scarf around the neck. Mariana named her Samanka. Stephanus present her a SA scarf and put it around the neck.
She was so surprised. Just waved and walked away. She was Very pleased with her new scarf. Coen has a pressure measure machine on his tyre, he could see this tyre loosing pressure. They decide to change it. After tea the Cruiser was cooled off and we were ready to go.
She was so surprised. Just waved and walked away. She was Very pleased with her new scarf. Coen has a pressure measure machine on his tyre, he could see this tyre loosing pressure. They decide to change it. After tea the Cruiser was cooled off and we were ready to go.Coen was leading and as he warns for a speed bump in the road, Hans approached; just to find out he had no brakes. Stephanus said he could see brake fluid dripping on the right front side of the wheel. They looked for a tree and stopped. Yes, it was brake fluid but they couldn’t find the leak. Hans said we must continue to Savere. The possibility there is better to get a ‘BUSH MACHANIC”
Coen and Shanhaz thought we could do better, seeing that they are busy building on the camping site, cement, water, bricks, scaffolding, re enforcing material and wheel barrows standing al over.
Here started our 3 hour search for a decent camping site. The names came from our reference books, the latest’s one published 2010. GPS where to stay. We droved from one to the other, al over Savere. One thing I can say now is we know SAVERE. After 3 hours and nearly dark we were back where we have started. VIA VIA HOTEL, building site.
The Staff here is so helpful and friendly, they gave us a room to use the bathroom. The garden was really very peacefull. They have a restaurant with WI FI and the roof is thatched. So it nice and cool inside.
Hans and Elisme decided to have a drink, Coen and Shanhaz had the same idée. They invited us to a laid table in the garden under a huge tree. We had a lovely evening Stephanus and Mariana joined us. Everybody decided to have Dinner here. The food was taking an age, but it was the wait worth.
Coen and Shanhaz decided to take a room. The 4 of us slept in our vehicles. We had a peaceful night; it was really not so hot.
Early Sunday morning, Hans was restless, the Landy was brothering him. Coffee and a fly war we won. Hans and Elisme had their moment of silents, reading the bible and saying their prayers. This is a very special time of the day. Today we saw 2 Christine Churches. Coen said from here we will see more Christians. This is so nice to know that Jesus Christ is slowly moving in to Mali. We pray so many times for that.
Hans started with the Brake light that was not working. Then the search for the problem on the brakes. Coen and Stephanus join him, very quickly Coen got the place where the pipe is leaking.
Kobus and Tommy will enjoy this. A years ago we went to Zimbabwe, on our way the Landy’s Turbo were giving trouble. Kobus and Tommy quickly sorted it out. When they put back the top, one screw was missing. Hans told the guys at Land Rover Nelspruit to look at this when they were working on the Landy. Now 2 years later, the screw is still missing. The little movement of that top was against the brake pipe. Viola there the perish comes, of the brake pipe. Bush mechanics’ can do anything here in AFRICA. The Landy was fixed and ready for its next journey.
The Cruiser is next. They took of the Radiator; Coen checked everything with the help of Stephanus and the Bush Mechanic. Hans took them to town to get the radiator fixed. Everything now had to be put back and then the test.
 |
| this is how the BUSH MACHENIC works, no problem get in the engine. |
Monday morning 22 August 20 we left early after coffee and morning prayers. We want to go to Djenne, to see the market and the Mosque. Coen and Shane. A radio call and then we realise they have a problem. An sms and the news the Cruiser’s radiator is leaking again, we turned back. Met them under the tree, where the mechanic of yesterday is. The mechanic checked and said it’s a new leak. He accuses the boys of breaking it when they put it back. Coen suggested that we take Shanhaz and go to Djenne. He will then have time to fix the radiator with the help of the Bush Mechanic. They went through the process of braising, putting the radiator back, test and then 3 times VIOLA. Coen was on his way to Mopti to wait for us.
 |
| Add captioOn the Ferry a beautiful Mummy feeding her pretty baby |
 |
| The Ferry to cross to Djenni |
118 km back on the same road of Saturday, we reach the Ferry to cross the Niger River. Djenne becomes an Island on the Niger River during the rainy season. We have to cross with a ferry.
This Ferry was really well organized. We got in the queue at the quay; soon we were all on the ferry, 30 min wait and cross.
 |
| The horses at their carts happily grazing in the back of the cart while the family shop. |
 |
| Price winning Mosque in Djenni |
 |
| Mummy and Child in her doorway Djenni |
 |
| This is the Mud Mosque in Djenni |
Mopti was our next place to visit. Coen sms’d the Cruiser was fixed and he is on his way to Mopti. We had an 80 min drive to get to Mopti.
 |
| Niger River view of Mopti |
Coens directions was good and soon we, parked the cars. The Boys decided we will view Mopti from the Niger River. Mopti is build alongside the Niger. They arranged a good Pinasse. That is a handmade motorized vessel with seats and a woven mat awning. Ours had colourful curtains that opens and a nice Dinnig area, with table and benches around it.
 |
| Bread and fish are sold here i Mopti |
The Captain of our boat knew what he was doing. We could feel we are going to have nice tripe. He meandered through the small ports alongside the Niger. We could have a good look at Mopti. The fishing is excellent in Mopti,. The people here make a living out of fishing. They sell fish in every form, fresh, smoked or salted. Very good salt blocks are sold here. The salt comes out of the Sahara desert towns Taoudenni/Araaouane, then transported on Camelback to Timbuktu from there by boat on the Niger River to Mopti. The Grand mud Mosque in Mopti is newly built. Pottery was sold everywhere. The local people make use of this pottery for storing their grains and water. They also use it for stoves. Lots of leather crafts and jewellery is hand made and sold on the streets. The clouds where building up, soon we could see there is a thunder storm coming. The Captain sailed in to one of the ports. His actions were measured and very definite. He was instructing his son to bring down the woven curtains. The wind was blowing fiercely. Big raindrops started to fall, we were amidst a cloud burst. The Pinasse was surprisingly not leaking too much. We all moved around and kept dry. The Captain started to dish out water from the vessel. An hour later it was safe and the Captain, started the engines and took us to the quay. We will have nice memories of Mopti, thanks to our Captain on the Pinasse. One Pirogue over turned in the storm, we had a wise Captain.
They decided we will go back to hotel Via Via, by now we know its the only place to camp in this area. We felt so welcome, as we arrive at Via Via, the manager came to welcome us and gave us our room’s key to use the bathroom.
Soup and local round breads were on the menu for Supper. We had an early evening. Tomorrow our journey will continue to
.
TIMBUKTU
Or
TOMBOUCTOO
Or
TIMBOUCTOU
No comments:
Post a Comment