23-08-2011 Timbuktu

Tuesday 23-08- 2011 we left from Via Via hotel to Timbuktu. Early morning we got up, had coffee and Stephanus, Mariana, Hans and Elisme did their moment of silence.

Coen and Shanhaz had breakfast . Shanhaz told Elisme that the internet connection was working. Elisme went to post the next Blog. The connections here in West Africa can sometimes drive you round the bend. Just when you think you have everything ready to post, no connection 3 days later they fix it. This morning we were lucky it worked perfectly. There was a mail for Mariana from the new teacher Nerine. “Dit het Mariana se dag gemaak”.  Thanks to all the Children who contact and mail us, this keeps us going. The photos we receive make us still feel part of the family.

Timbuktu is associated with mysterious beauty, learning and above all wealth. (the forbidden city)  Elisme was always fascinated by Timbuktu or Timbouctou or Tombouctoo what spelling you prefer. The saying “Going to Timbouctoo” the end of the earth or to hell. That made her to insist on seeing TIMBUKTU.

the road is POTHOLES but the view.

To get to Timbuktu is not so easy. When we were at Sleeping Camel an Italian came back and said he didn’t make it to Timbuktu. We could not understand WHY? After the road we travelled today we know.

The road started with a tar road, or shall I say a patched tar road and then patched again and then patched again with POTHOLES between the patches.

Rich farmer with his herd at a water hole

A friendly farmer waving at us.

At Douentze the dirt road started. This is supposed to be semi desert, much as our Karoo. We had potholes and low water bridges filled with water like rivers. The vehicles managed quite easily, but what the damage will be that we will see later. Then the corrugation started. Hans always says he can take potholes, bad roads but corrugation is worse on a vehicle. That we had enough of today, 20 km. we lay off in an hour. Therefore the last hundred km took us 5 hours. We arrived at Korioume from where we’ll have to take the ferry across the Niger River. Just to find out we must go to another place. To get there was a sandy road. We saw some vehicles standing at this point but no sign of the Ferry. The boys got out talked to the people there. They said the ferry will arrive in an hour’s time. The kids were at every window of the girls as always. Mariana was giving Super C’s today. I think she saw they have a cold. Elisme was painting her toe nails. The kids were fascinated. They hold their nails to be painted. Elisme only did the middle finger of each girl, the whole village girls came for a “MIDDLE FINGER MANICURE” Mariana had tear in her eyes watch  the girls, admiring their hands. Small thing that made the girls’ day. Meanwhile the boys were having a conversation with the guys waiting for the Ferry. They were so friendly and very interested in the vehicles. They believe in Toyota Cruiser and didn’t t think the Land Rover is that good. They wanted to see the engine .   Again the Landy had to prove itself. When the Ferry arrived the cars did a chase for a place on the ferry. All the vehicles must reverse to go on the ferry. Stephanus and then Coen last Hans, that was quite a process, very steep as you go on the ferry. We could not believe our eyes; here comes a Mercedes through the sand. Elisme said to Hans this must be a 4x4 Mercedes, just then it got stuck. They used man power to push it out of the sand. Then the front wheels got stuck and the ramp was to steep. They asked if Hans will pull it on the Ferry. Coen provided a rope and Stephanus opened the bonnet of the Land Rover to make sure if the rope breaks it would not break the windscreen.

 Stephanus conducted the process and voila, there, the Mercedes was out and on to the Ferry. Once again the Land Rover proved itself.

The sun was setting and it will soon be dark. To get into Timbuktu after dark will be a disaster for us. One of the local guys with a car on the Ferry, offered that we follow him, he will take us to the camping site. Hans waited on the other side, he came past and we followed him. From the ferry to the town Timbuktu was 20 km.

The Auberge were one of the first buildings on the road as we enter Timbuktu. Once again the people were very hospitable, nothing was too much. They even brought a flask with boiling water and cups for coffee. They cleaned the bathroom and offered a bathroom in the Auberge. Tables and chairs were put out for us on the terrace.  Soon everybody was settled and ready for Supper. We decided everybody will prepare their own, seeing that it was late.

DIFFERENT BUILDING STYLE

The owner Mr. Mohammed, offer to take us to all the places of interest. He suggested that we take a guide, we will be less hassled. The SA build library is a real land mark in Timbuktu. Neatly build modern but still fits in to the building style of Timbuktu, the sad is there is no plaque on it stating it was done by SA.

The mosque from the outside is well kept, same mud style as the rest of this area. We are by now use  that we are not allowed in, but this time even Shanhaz who is a dedicated moslem, was not allowed in. Elisme finds this very strange, what about heaven? No women?

The market was a colourfull hub of people selling buying and pushing.they haven’t seen tourists lately, because of the saverty issue. Everybody load their prices, so keen to make a little money. They just don’t except no for an answer. Our guide had his handsfull to get them to leave us.

The communication system in Mali is excellent, between the people. Mohammed phoned his brother to gain so information on the Dogon roads. His brother told him   , he saw us coming in to Douentza. They new where we were from  Bamako and every place  and movement we were making. I am so glad we ‘re from SA. We were never threatend, I don’t know if the Amerikaans and other Europeans can say the same. Why ant they visiting Mali anymore?

Shanhaze prepared us a lovely Dinner, on the terrase Mariana laid a table, with candle light and stars that was so bright we felt so close to God.

Long after al our evening rituals, we were sitting and watching the stars. Wimcar would have enjoyed it so much. He would be able to tell us which star is which.

Gate Way to Timbuktu

The night was still very hot but a little better as the previous night.after a good rest we were ready for the 200 km and Ferry crossing to Douentza. The only difference to Tuesday was, we now know what to expect. A very BAD ROAD.

Thursday morning we left early for the 2 nd Ferry. Hans took some pictures at the entrance of TIMBUKTU with the land infront.

On the road we say this man and his Camel

Arriving at the Ferry, just to find there is 2 busses and a truck before us. We are 3 cars so we will have to wait for the next Ferry. Once again, children knocking at your window, asking for a “cardouw” 3 hours of pretending your are blind and deaf. Thanks for the aircon, your windows can be closed and you don’t feel the heat. 8 o’clock in the morning and the temperature already on 36 degrees. Our guide was saying yesterday, it’s a bit cooler, I don’t know what they do when it’s hotter.

After another bumpy 200 km we reach Douentza. Mat gave us a name for camping. Dogon Camp site, nothing much. We al decided that is nothing better in Douentza.

Coen and Shanhaz couldn’t see camping on the muddy terrain, they took a room. Stephanus, Mariana, Hans and Elisme sleep in their vehicles so the mud wasn’t an opstickle for them.

Elisme was soon set up table gas bottles, pots and water to start the evening meal. Here menu tonight is cottage pie and green  banana  for pudding. The bananas here is green but very sweet and tasty. She even took a picture of the beautiful girl and so smart dressed selling the bananas.

The candle light dinner with surprise cocktail by Hans went of well. That made that everybody had a peaceful and very good rest.

TOMORROW DOGON COUNTRY

19-08-2011 Segou - Sevare- Mopti and Djenni Mali

19-08-2011 blog MALI  -SEGOU

Friday 19 August we woke up at 4 o’clock with thunder. We realise that it was going to rain in a few minutes time. We had to pack up if we don’t want a wet tent and the rest of our camping gear.

Coffee was as always a priority for Elisme. Stephanus woke up and was out of his vehicle packing his camping gear. He went back to bed. Hans and Elisme, armed with 2 mugs of coffee and by now used to biscuits, went to the stoop. Last minute, email s, and blog. Anton was on the list to Skype, haven’t heard his voice in many days. With the snow in Dullstroom photos of all the farms and properties were now first on his list, so it was difficult to track him down.

After the rain at 8 o’clock Stephanus Mariana, Hans and Elisme left, to draw money and do some shopping. We will not be in a big town for 8 days. We are leaving for Timbuktu.

Banks are another matter; you try to draw money, no response. They subtract the amount from your account but you get no cash. Some take VISA and some MASTER CARD. They don’t want to change $. So only Euro’s works. This can be a big problem. Between us we manage.

Today the bank was kind to Elisme she managed to draw money. A few items at the Super market. Meat was looking good, so we all bought. Our deep freezers are not so big, there for a kilo or so must do. The Boys insist on T-bones, for a braai.

Coen and Stephanus had the Cruisers serviced the previous day. Engines wash and ready for the road. Hans called for Coen. Shanhaz said no the Cruiser won’t start. Bottom line don’t wash engines, wet plugs or whatever. After a while they were on there way.

Segou was our next stop, 244km. The road was excellent alongside as we pass villages, they were selling, fresh tomatoes, cucumbers, onions, potatoes and melons. What I can’t understand, we don’t see many schools. Kids are all walking around, maybe its holiday.

The houses are all built with mud. Mali is known for its mud style houses. The mosque du Vendi won first prize in an international Islamic architecture competition. Many French colonial buildings are also seen in Segou., being the former French regime capital.

Hans and Shanhaz inspecting the hotel where we"ll camp

Hans and Shanhaz had a few places where we could camp tonight. They decided they’ll inspect them on our way, as we enter Segou. The L’Auberge was by far the best, but no camping. Two Lebanese brothers own the Auberge and the Independence Hotel. Camping was available at the hotel on the road to Mopti. This was a very pleasant hotel, with a beautiful swimming pool, pity it was’nt raining. The camping, like all the hotel camping in Africa, was in the Parking area.

Independence hotel Camping area

Mariana made us a lovely meal of mince balls, mash, veggie’s and peas. Pudding was fresh fruit and cream.

After a nice COLD shower [we are now used to} I must say it is so hot in these countries, even Elisme is not missing a nice hot shower. We all went to bed. Tonight was a reasonable evening; just Hans was still suffering from the heat. The noise level never stopped, but you even get use to that.

Stephanus suggested that we all go for breakfast at the hotel. Hans and Stephanus hoped to get bacon and eggs. No bacon but THREE EGGS I think they have there cholesterol boost for the week.

Djenne was our next place, the biggest Clay  Mosque in the world  is there.

The terrain we pass was where the Niger river split in two legs. The Niger River flows very shallow. Therefore the country side is like swamps. Water is standing all over, the houses are surrounded by water. The bit higher levels they plant maize, rice and wheat.

They were trying to dry the wheat {hobs} on the road side, but with so much rain I doubt.

The houses were al built with mud, the same style. In this country people are poor, you could see it the way they were dressed. The things they were selling. One thing that was selling all long the road is bottles, with liquid. Stephanus was saying he thinks it must be petrol mixed with 2 stroke oil for the motor bikes.

Hans called for a tea break, we found a beautiful open area with trees and less water. Mariana bought avo’s in Bamako, they were just ripe now. The rest of the meatballs with the Avo’s, tomato, cucumbers and cheese, was a feast. The cheese I must tell you about, it’s not Melrose, but the same blocks, not yellow but white, this we use as butter.

Coen was worried about the temperature of the Cruiser; he had the radiator checked in Bamako. The temperature was still going too high. One of the local people came to watch the operation. He or she was wearing beautiful blanket folded luck a scarf around the neck. Mariana named her Samanka. Stephanus present her a SA scarf and put it around the neck. She was so surprised. Just waved and walked away. She was Very pleased with her new scarf. Coen has a pressure measure machine on his tyre, he could see this tyre loosing pressure. They decide to change it.  After tea  the Cruiser was cooled off and we were ready to go.

Coen was leading and as he warns for a speed bump in the road, Hans approached; just to find out he had no brakes. Stephanus said he could see brake fluid dripping on the right front side of the wheel. They looked for a tree and stopped. Yes, it was brake fluid but they couldn’t find the leak. Hans said we must continue to Savere. The possibility there is better to get a ‘BUSH MACHANIC” The brake fluid was getting low now, the brakes red light went on. We stopped at a garage to buy Brake fluid, no luck. Coen was leading and warning Hans of every danger in the road. Hans then geared down the Land Rover and stopped that way. At last we got a garage selling Brake fluid, another 80 km to go. We arrived safely at Via Via Hotel. They offer camping too.

Coen and Shanhaz thought we could do better, seeing that they are busy building on the camping site, cement, water, bricks, scaffolding, re enforcing material and wheel barrows standing al over.

Here started our 3 hour search for a decent camping site. The names came from our reference books, the latest’s one published 2010. GPS where to stay. We droved from one to the other, al over Savere. One thing I can say now is we know SAVERE. After 3 hours and nearly dark we were back where we have started. VIA VIA HOTEL, building site.

The Staff here is so helpful and friendly, they gave us a room to use the bathroom. The garden was really very peacefull. They have a restaurant with WI FI and the roof is thatched. So it nice and cool inside.

Hans and Elisme decided to have a drink, Coen and Shanhaz had the same idée. They invited us to a laid table in the garden under a huge tree. We had a lovely evening Stephanus and Mariana joined us. Everybody decided to have Dinner here. The food was taking an age, but it was the wait worth.

Coen and Shanhaz decided to take a room. The 4 of us slept in our vehicles. We had a peaceful night; it was really not so hot.

Early Sunday morning, Hans was restless, the Landy was brothering him. Coffee and a fly war we won. Hans and Elisme had their moment of silents, reading the bible and saying their prayers. This is a very special time of the day. Today we saw 2 Christine Churches. Coen said from here we will see more Christians. This is so nice to know that Jesus Christ is slowly moving in to Mali. We pray so many times for that.

Hans started with the Brake light that was not working. Then the search for the problem on the brakes. Coen and Stephanus join him, very quickly Coen got the place where the pipe is leaking.

Kobus and Tommy will enjoy this. A years ago we went to Zimbabwe, on our way the Landy’s Turbo were giving trouble. Kobus and Tommy quickly sorted it out. When they put back the top, one screw was missing. Hans told the guys at Land Rover Nelspruit to look at this when they were working on the Landy. Now 2 years later, the screw is still missing. The little movement of that top was against the brake pipe. Viola there the perish comes, of the brake pipe. Bush mechanics’ can do anything here in AFRICA. The Landy was fixed and ready for its next journey.

The Cruiser is next. They took of the Radiator; Coen checked everything with the help of Stephanus and the Bush Mechanic. Hans took them to town to get the radiator fixed. Everything now had to be put back and then the test.

this is how the BUSH MACHENIC  works, no problem get in the engine.

Monday morning 22 August 20 we left early after coffee and morning prayers. We want to go to Djenne, to see the market and the Mosque. Coen and Shane. A radio call and then we realise they have a problem. An sms and the news the Cruiser’s radiator is leaking again, we turned back. Met them under the tree, where the mechanic of yesterday is. The mechanic checked and said it’s a new leak. He accuses the boys of breaking it when they put it back. Coen suggested that we take Shanhaz and go to Djenne. He will then have time to fix the radiator with the help of the Bush Mechanic. They went through the process of braising, putting the radiator back, test and then 3 times VIOLA. Coen was on his way to Mopti to wait for us.

Add captioOn the Ferry a beautiful Mummy feeding her pretty baby

The Ferry to cross to Djenni

118 km back on the same road of Saturday, we reach the Ferry to cross the Niger River. Djenne becomes an Island on the Niger River during the rainy season. We have to cross with a ferry.

This Ferry was really well organized. We got in the queue at the quay; soon we were all on the ferry, 30 min wait and cross.

 The horses at their carts happily grazing in the back of the cart while the family shop.

Monday is market day at the Djenne. The hub was on, everybody from main land who has something to sell, cross the ferry to bring to the market. We saw all these horse carts loaded with wood. After offloading they leave their carts with the horses at a rest place. They put green grass at the back of the cart for the horse to graze while they are selling their products and buying the necessary.  Everybody tries to sell their products to you. They don’t know the gesture of shaking your head for no, the word NO THANK YOU.  Elisme thought she must take them to SA, for Pam Golding. They can teach the you so agents something, of keep on trying. {on the other hand, they make tired, that you DONT WANT TO BUY ANYTHING} Elisme” good example of OVER SELLING” PLEASE DONT DO THAT.

Price winning Mosque in Djenni

Mariana soon saw a nice piece of typical MALI material, Elisme was not far behind. With  that in hand their shopping experience was done.

Mummy and Child in her doorway Djenni

This is the Mud Mosque in Djenni

We all squeezed  our way through to the famous mud Mosque. Shanhaz went in, we Christians are not allow to go in. Thanks to a French film maker, who took picture of models in scrumptious clothes to publish worldwide. The head of the Mosque placed a restriction, they only allow Moslems. The rest of us walked around the Mosque and took nice pictures of it. Shanhaz looked forward for a peaceful visit. That was denied to her. She was offended by their attitude, for her not wearing a head cover. True to Shanhaz she was standing on here rights. She was on Safari and therefore some other rules apply. She told the Old man he will have to live with what he did to her. What was meant to be a life experience for Shanhaz ended in a nightmare.

Mopti was our next place to visit. Coen sms’d the Cruiser was fixed and he is on his way to Mopti. We had an 80 min drive to get to Mopti.

Niger River view of Mopti

Coens directions was good and soon we, parked the cars. The Boys decided we will view Mopti from the Niger River. Mopti is build alongside the Niger. They arranged a good Pinasse. That is a handmade motorized vessel with seats and a woven mat awning. Ours had colourful curtains that opens and a nice Dinnig area, with table and benches around it.

Bread and fish are sold here i Mopti

The Captain of our boat knew what he was doing. We could feel we are going to have nice tripe. He meandered through the small ports alongside the Niger. We could have a good look at Mopti. The fishing is excellent in Mopti,. The people here make a living out of fishing. They sell fish in every form, fresh, smoked or salted. Very good salt blocks are sold here. The salt comes out of the Sahara desert towns Taoudenni/Araaouane, then transported on Camelback  to Timbuktu from there by boat on the Niger River to Mopti. The Grand mud Mosque in Mopti is newly built. Pottery was sold everywhere. The local people make use of this pottery for storing their grains and water. They also use it for stoves. Lots of leather crafts and jewellery is hand made and sold on the streets. The clouds where building up, soon we could see there is a thunder storm coming. The Captain sailed in to one of the ports. His actions were measured and very definite. He was instructing his son to bring down the woven curtains. The wind was blowing fiercely. Big raindrops started to fall, we were amidst a cloud burst.  The Pinasse was surprisingly not leaking too much. We all moved around and kept dry. The Captain started to dish out water from the vessel. An hour later it was safe and the Captain, started the engines and took us to the quay. We will have nice memories of Mopti, thanks to our Captain on the Pinasse. One Pirogue over turned in the storm, we had a wise Captain.

They decided we will go back to hotel Via Via, by now we know its the only place to camp in this area. We felt so welcome, as we arrive at Via Via, the manager came to welcome us and gave us our room’s key to use the bathroom.

Soup and local round breads were on the menu for Supper. We had an early evening. Tomorrow our journey will continue to

                                         .

                                      TIMBUKTU

                                    Or

                      TOMBOUCTOO

                                   Or

                       TIMBOUCTOU

  

16 Aug 2011 Bamako SLEEPING CAMEL

Bamako is the Capital City of Mali. I have never seen so many people on motor bikes, men and women. Again everybody does just what he/she wants, no traffic rules.  To try and cross a street is a nightmare. Hans and Stephanus take our hands and just walk, putting out their hands, miraculously, the Cars and motor bikes just stop to let you pass.

After a search of “a needle in a Hay stack” we eventually got  to the SLEEPING CAMEL, what a relief. The 6 of us were dead tired and in need of having “tender loving care”

Matt and his staff did everything possible to make us comfortable. Soon we were all settled and having a nice shower. The Boys were having an ice cold 500ml Casteel, not spelt wrong; this is the beer here in Mali.

Women are driving alover Bamako, smartly dressed and very confident on their Bikes

The next morning the girls decided to go to the market. Shanhaz got the directions, remember she speaks French fluently. So off we went. First, the bridge crossing without the help of the boys. They went off to sort out our next 3 visas. The bridge crosses the Niger River, about 1 km wide. There is 4 lanes going across the bridge, 2 for cars 2 for pedestrians but the motor bikes use those lanes. We waited and then when there were a slow down, we walk and put out our hand, it worked. We safely crossed the bridge. The closer we got to the market the more people were walking, motor bikes driving cars hooting. We have never experience such traffic, pedestrian JAM.  Then the rain started, that was a blessing in disguise. All of a sudden everybody was off the street and we could walk easy. The rain did not stop the 3 of us. Eventually we got to the bridge that takes you to the Arts and Craft Market. Here there were many friendly people trying to assist us. Coming from the previous countries, we were allured, thought they will ask you money for any advice. To our surprise they were helping us to get where we want, without asking anything. This was a life time experience.

The Mali people are very friendly and helpful. They don’t get cross when you don’t want to buy anything. Still all is about bargaining. As we walked alongside the road, a old woman pushed Elisme aside, preventing a car to bump her. Elisme thanked her and then she took Elisme and Mariana and started talking while taking them across the street.  We could only show our appreciation with hand movements. Then an old man came out of his shop, stopped Elisme and showed her she must put her rack sack to the front. There are many “PICK POCKETS”. This just showed us how kind the Mali people are. Still strange to us are the people, putting out their prayer carpets, middle of street or shop or where ever they are. They are not shy of their beliefs. What an example for us CHRISTIANS.

Mali women are the best dressed women so far in West Africa. Whether they stay in a shack or walking in the street or on a motor bike they are so well dressed. They have a style of their own, but all styles have long skirts with a matching head scarf. BEAUTIFUL

Here we have to apply for our Visa’s for Burkina Faso, Nigeria and Ghana. This is usually a big problem for South Africans. We made contact to the SA Embassy. We were very lucky to meet Vivianne who gave them good advice about visa application. The boys started with the Burkina Faso, they were quick, and they waited for the visas. Next the boys took the passports to the Nigerian Embassy and they promised that we can have it within 24 hours. They took photo copies of our passports to Ghana Embassy. They promised to start working on it and that we can, bring our passports, and then it will only take 12 hour...

Then the banks are another story. We all try to draw money. No bank honoured our cards. This was creating a Huge problem. The visas is costing us 290 000 FCFA. Now we must try and chance $ or Euro’s. The guys at the SLEEPING CAMEL said we must get a taxi to town to get a bigger bank. Louis Sms’ed Elisme that the amount or 100 000 FCFA. Was drawn from our account but we never got the money. Everybody was now anguish, what happened on their accounts.

The girls was using the time to, sort out their vehicles for the next trip. Washing was done by the Sleeping Camels staff. We can really recommend to any tourists to come and stay with them. Matt and his staff are really very kind. Nothing is too much for them to help us with.

Hans busy with the Land Rover at Sleeping Camel

Gas bottles were also a problem, as we were running low on gas. In Morocco we could not fill our bottles. The Guys here phoned a place, they came and fetch our bottles and filled them for us.

Vivian and her friend Michelle came for drinks at our place, we had a lovely evening with them. Vivian is really so professional, she is an asset to the Embassy.

Add caption

I must say in all the countries we were, the SA Embassies are doing an excellent job. Thanks to everybody.

Corbin Sparker from the American Embassy, who is a friend of Hans came to say hello. He is a very nice guy. He was giving us a lot of info on Mali. He has been here for a year and well travelled.

Tonight we are going out for Dinner and then tomorrow we are leaving for Timbuktu.

Next time Timbuktu

Elisme is doing washing. Aggie at home will enjoy this. whats there to do washing must be done.

Border crossing Senega at Satadougoul to Mali at Kenieba

12-08-2011 Border crossing: Senegal at Satadougou, entering Mali at Kenieba.

This is the first time we came across no border post. Here started our search for their office. Nobody knows, they sent us from A to Z. With luck we found it. Very nice people stamped our passports, now the search for Duane to export the vehicles. This is about 20 km down the road, but we found it.

We say goodbye to Senegal with memories of lots of bribery. Here we was not scared of anything, even when bush camping we slept in peace. Thanks to the Senegalese people and a special thanks to Cindy in Banjul.

The Mali border was the same: no office. We found the immigration office after a search and lots asking. Stephanus and Hans were a little nervous. Our visas should only start on the 15th of August. They did a clever move, Coen showed their passports with visas first. The officer checked and stamped. Hans and Stephanus were lucky; he didn’t check the date again. Stamped passports in hand we were in Mali. The cars were imported; no extra cost this time,   our Carnets de passage worked. Thank you, Mali, no bribery!

We left for Bamako, the police told us they are building a new bridge over the Bakoye river, we must know they only open the temporary bridge at 3 o’clock.

Beautiful road to the bridge to Bamako and country site was breath taking

We decided not to have brunch but rather do the 120 km. to the bridge, and wait there.

Mali’s countryside was beautiful; green, with mountains as far as the eye can see. The villages are built together in a kraal shape, fenced with reeds rondawels, with reed and palm roofs. They are farmers, doing their lands. Maize is their main source of food.

First time we saw woman on motor bikes

The Mali people are friendly and they don’t storm your car to ask for money. This was first time we saw women on motor bikes. Here the main way of transport is motor bikes.

It was a newly build road, in excellent condition. The drive was a pleasant one.

The last part to the bridge was a new dirt road; Hans said we haven’t seen such a good road up to now in Africa.

The NIGHTMARE the bridge not finish and temprorary bdrige removed, before our eyes.

Soon we got to the bridge. Coen and Stephanus walked to the workers on the bridge, just to see how they remove the temporary bridge.

Hans and Coen went to see the engineer, trying to find out when we can pass. Bad news, we must go back to Kenieba, 120 km back. That was depressing news. Forest Gump: my mum use to say life is like a box of chocolates, you never know what you’re going to get. AFRICA, no notice or sign. JUST TOUGH LUCK.

Luckely Hans got us a beautiful camping site, out from the eye of the tar road

As it was getting late we decided bush camping will be the best. Tomorrow when the, sun shines the 390 km will be easier.

Elisme served curry and mushrooms with chive rice in the tagines. She bought dried mushrooms in a Supermarket, when soaked they were big ones, very tasty. Only 6 small dried ones made a normal SA packet. Something to remember for a Safari. Pudding was an orange caramel sauce with fried bananas, chocolate short bread biscuits soaked in kirsch. Served with cream and Amarula, that gave us all a good night’s rest.

Coen and Shanhaze having early morning coffee

We didn’t want to switch our lights on, the villages were very close, and so we had an early evening.  The night was cooler and it was nice to sleep.

Early morning we all had coffee and biscuits together around the table. (OUMA RUSKS FROM SA WERE FINISHED) No risks are to be found in these countries, only biscuits. We had our normal packing and became quiet before GOD.

Very Bad road our speed was 20 km 

Soon we were back in Kenieba. Coen as was leading way to Kayes, this will take us to Bamako. They assured us the road is fairly good. Maybe we don’t know what a bad road is. Our average speed on this 244 km leg is 22km per hour. Potholes, big enough to bury the Landy in, full of water.

We had brunch and then the boys decided there is no way we will reach Bamako today. We will do a bush camp once again. Our water is low, we will have to try and get some at one of the water wells

The women here all dress in beautifully colourful clothes. The Arabic dressing is not part of their culture. The children are well dressed. Girls wear tops and long skirts, the boys normally wear western dressing. What is strange is that you see men with shotguns on their shoulders and in their cars. This scares me, but Hans say they are hunters. I don’t know what they hunt.  I don’t see a living thing here, just beautiful green pastures, trees and magnificent mountains.

After 7 hours of driving, potholes and potholes, we are tired now. We must still do another 70 km to Kayes.

Bush camp and then we heard voices

Bush camp but washing must be done

We camped in the bush near Sadiola. Stephanus turned in at a small farm road through a quarry, behind ground heaps to find us a nice spot. Soon we heard voices, and we realised we were close to a village. Then a guy on a motor bike came down the cattle road. After him a friendly man, walking home, came to greet us. When a third man came from the opposite direction we knew the news had spread that we were there for the night. Soon we heard gun shots. Hans said they were hunters hunting in the late afternoon. Elisme was not so sure. She was on guard all night. The temperature went very high just when we went to bed, so sleep was out. The water bottle sprayer and fans were working the whole night. Thanks, Jaco and Helen, for introducing us to the water spray bottle.

While having our coffee,  Hans saw marks on the Landy’s back wheel. He immediately checked. The coil springs was out of its position, (Jak put it in as extra support). It had moved out of its mounting bracket. Stephanus and Coen checked. They jacked the Landy with the high lift jack and the wheel jack, removed the tyre, supporting the Landy with a big stone which Stephanus found. He had to carry it for 200m and it was big and heavy. Thanks Stephanus and Coen! Now they removed the wheel jack and Coen pushed the spring in with a tyre lever. Better BUSH MEHANICS you can’t get. Soon everything was packed back in and we were on our way. Hans was worried: “Why did it move out?” although we did a very bad road. He will see if they can tie the spring with something in their mountings, at Bamako.

Yesterday was a nightmare road; I don’t know what to call this one towards Kayes today, potholes to bury a vehicle in. Within the first 100 km Stephanus had counted 11 trucks and buses, turned over. We didn’t count how many broken down ones. Stephanus says he thinks about 20. The pictures will tell the story.  

The GPS, after a couple of days silence, decided to start giving information again. It was 3 o’clock and according to the GPS there was 390 km to go. The boys said they were going to try and reach Bamako. The road was now really a good one. Soon we got to a toll gate where we paid 500CFA. We didn’t mind paying for such a good road. You won’t believe it we, paid toll for the “Potholes” road, also 500CFA...

The bird life was a pleasure watching them

Catapillars visiting us, for the lack of game

At 5h30 Shahnaz said we must start looking for a suitable CAMP SITE. Bush camp was our destination again tonight. Mariana mentioned that the Kingfishers were so beautiful and colourful. We didn’t see any other game. although driving .along side the game park.

The area was beautiful, with trees and it was not so hot. This was the territory of the nomads. They are moving with their cattle, goats and donkeys to wherever they find grass. I am sure we will have visitors tonight.

Mariana as always was doing the most interesting canopies. She really can make them look so nice, you just want to eat them.Shanhaz was serving a nice noodle and bully beef dish to us. Everybody enjoyed it. We didn’t know “bully” can be so nice. Shanhaz you’re a star. Dates and lemon grass with liquorice end the meal.

Coen and Shanhaze having their morning coffee

The only strange noise we heard last night was a bird, it sounds like a human been. Hans assured Elisme it was a bird. The night was still hot but bearable. The mosquito’s was having a feast on Coen and Shanhaz while showered. Stephanus and Mariana were also part of the meal but less bitten. Hans and Elisme drown them in Tabard and Doom.After our normal morning ritual we were ready to leave. Al vehicles were fine. Coen is a little worried about the Cruiser it took 2 litre of water. He can’t see where it went, must be the terrible pothole road. Stop and drive the fuel consumption must be double to the normal.

 We before we reached the next village, we past 40 Donkey carts with people dressed in traditional clothes. They must be on their way to a celebration. They were so colourful. The trucks were just as many. Not far from the village

 Hans warned everybody of an accident in front of us. It was just people and trucks standing. When slowly passing. We could see it was a truck that bumped the Donkey cart from the road. The road was filled up with ground above the wetlands. So the Donkey Cart rolled quiet high. We could not see that anybody was injured, but then so many watches.

Bamako our first impression of it was part of a National Park. Beautiful big trees and lots of other vegetation. We followed the GPS to the Burkino Fasi embassy. We must apply for our visas. Coen phoned the SA Embassy they told us it was a  international holiday. We decided to start looking for a camping place. Just there the GPS went hay wire,  Daniel said “ hierdie Tannie was nog nie hier gewees " Next time more about. Bamako and the SLEEPING CAMEL.