Palmwag - Damara Land

 Palmwag Damara Land,

Tuesday we left Ongongo to Palmwag. Just where we entered the main road we got cell reception.  We phoned Rodger and Nadin, they were on the bus at Upington to Windhoek. They will make contact with us when they’re in Windhoek.

Hunky ready for the Far North of Namibia

Palmwag Conservation on top of a hill somewhere to nowhere. We saw people were camping there but the only thing left, were the ashes of the camp fire and ELEPHANT DUNG. Hans could not believe here in the middle of this semi desert, no trees and ELEPHANT DUNG. We then drove in a branch of the Uniab  River about 10 km from where we first saw the  Dung. As we decent to the River bed, on the River Bank across Hans saw an Elephant. Then we saw the family, father, Mum and toddler. Soon we saw the herd, 23 of them. We are so privileged to saw so many Desert Elephants.  

On the GPS  it said this is a restricted area. Hans as always the law obedient Citizen, drove across the field with big stones, ‘SEKELBOS’ but Hans must get out. Eventually we got back to the main road with no “”PUNTURES”

Our only friend on the way back to the main road.

It was now time to look for camping.  A game viewing vehicle was watching something, as we approach, our FIRST KUDU, no not ONE, 5 big Bulls. They were not impressed with our presence

So no nice photo’s to put on the blog. Hans saw a big quarry, which will hide the vehicle from the eye of by passers. That was a safe haven for the night. As we turn we were disturbing 2 Silver Back Jackals. One was not at all bother with us, just continue to lay and watch us. As Hans switched of the Landy, she gave us a “Why This” look and slowly moved away, looking over her shoulder, but no hurry.

Hans made a juicy Rump steak in the Tachine with “POTBROOD” Elisme join in on the bread and a mug of her favourite “HOT CHOCOLAT’. This was the culprit, for a middle of the night ‘Bladder call’. Hans had no choice but to open the door and check for any danger.

Wednesday morning we set of Palmwag, diesel was on the list and cell connection. Elisme want to post the blog and both of them to do email. Then they must contact Rodger and Nadin. They’re now in Windhoek and will leave for Swakop on Friday. We’ll meet them there.

What a pleasant surprise, as Hans was busy with re fuelling 6 LAND ROVERS   stopped at the filling station. Land Rover owners always greet each other, and have a conversation about their vehicle, where are you going, and from where are you coming. JOHAN LOUW was the leader of this group. He is from Germany and does his companies LAND ROVER EXPERIENCES safari leader and does Safari’s all over the world.

Johan Louw with his Safari group "LAND ROVER EXPERIENCE"

 He is really a very pleasant person. He knows his vehicles and his planned Safari. Soon we were having a nice conversation on every body’s experiences. We left with promises to follow the blog and make contact once Johan is back in Germany.

Our lunch was going to be at, Twyfelfontein. Daniel and Alida will be glad to here we went back. The last time we were camping with them at Twyfelfontein. Daniel took us to a Lodge with the most stunning view. Now we know this Lodge, the Airstrip Petrol Station and work shop belongs to a Mr. De Beer.  

Elisme was still busy with doing the photos for the blog. This really takes a long time. Hans got permission for us to do our picnic lunch at the camp site. He met Martin and Claudia they were having a drink.

Hans came back to Elisme and said he met these most interesting people born Austria and now living in Cape Town South Africa. He wants to go and talk to them, as they have just completed the root we want to take. 

Hans and Elisme had a delicious meal of Chicken Risotto with baby potatoes. Martin and Claudia came to meet Elisme and Said goodbye.

We left for the Rendezvous village, Louis, Andreas and Anton will remember the RENDEZVOUS in Pretoria our guest house where they grew up. I am sure they do have many memories of that. This Rendezvous is only a water pump for the animals to come and drink, so they have their RENDEZVOUS here.  I am sure they have many ‘THANK YOU’S’ for who every drilled this borehole. At least they do not have to go thirsty anymore.

Elephant much more interested in 'LUNCH' than any human been.

We entered the Huab River bed with big Anna Trees; once again we saw Elephant droppings and their footprints. As we go along, then we saw a game viewing vehicle from Wilderness Safaris they have concessions in Namibia.
Then Hans saw the first Elephant to our surprise there was a vehicle between the Elephants. This was Martin and Claudia, relaxed watching the Elephants as they graze their way down the River enjoying the Anna trees. Hans couldn't believe them sitting there and the elephant just grazing and sometimes flapping their ears and then passing by. We watched this herd of 20 plus Elephants with tiny babies, mothers and aunts protecting them.  This was a true example of human not disturbing the wild and the wild excepting the human been.

2 Landies happy for the night. Martin and Hans 2 very proud Land Rover owners

 We stopped to say hello and ended up leaving the next day at mid day. Martin and Claudia ar two very interesting people, they have travelled East Africa from South to North and then from East to West. The four of us had so much to share. We were talking and preparing a 5 star Dinner as Claudia has remarked till the clock stroke 1 hour pass midnight.  We could talk about any National Park they have been there. They really love the unspoiled and most desolated places. What Elisme liked most was; “. Daniel this was now a real ‘BON FIRE” every time the fire started to fade Claudia came with another dry half tree. Hans was responsible for baking the bread, Elisme made a three bean soup with baby potatoes. The soup bones went on the fire to brown, and the marrow was for the bread. Martin roasted the chicken wings and Peri Peri veggies. Claudia made an onion rice to die for. Martin opened a bottle of red wine.

Martin helping Hans with his GPS'S

Martin’s Land Rover TD5 is extremely well equipped. He has tested every gatched on the Land Rover and everything worked perfect. From the roof that lifts for their bed which is 1,5m high to the gas shower and a pump to make sure the water flow don’t stop. His coffee and breakfast bar work in 1 minute after he has stopped. No rain will every bother them, they have a double canvas over the Landy. Elisme thinks their Landy is well equipped but when she saw, Martins “Pig Bladder” on the bonnet for hot shower, she made a mental note for Christmas.

We came as strangers but left as friends, as so many times on this trip. Martin and Claudia will be on our visit list next time we go down to Cape Town. They will come and see the ‘OLD” Easten Transvaal” and spent time with Hans and Elisme.

What do you think, DEAD or SLEEPING????????????

About 3 km away from Martin and Claudia we saw the Elephants and under a tree there lies a dead Elephant. First we thought it must be sleeping, but Elisme said she has never seen an Elephant lying down to sleep, it must be dead.
We watched it for a while took photos and then decide to go back and tell Martin and Claudia. We saw a Landy coming; Martin flashed his light and told us the bee’s attacked them just after we left. He got stung twice; they just throw everything in the car and drove off. We told them about the dead Elephant; Martin asked whether we were sure it’s dead?   We said we have never seen an Elephant lying down to sleep. He said Claudia read in a book, that the Dessert Elephant do that. So here we go, is the Elephant dead or sleeping. Hans took the GPS Coordinates. This is the tree and there the Elephant is standing, so it did arose from the DEATH. We learned something new about Elephants. Thanks to Martin and Claudia. They said they are just going to stay there and watched the Elephants.

Hans and Elisme moved on with the Huab, this road cross the Huab swamps. The GPS describes it as a very difficult crossing.

Hans coming in at the very difficult obstacle

 You can see the vehicles rather turn around here to take another road. Hans got out and as a good 4x4 driver first walked his obstacle. Elisme took photos of him doing it. After his observation, he was ready to drive through. Elisme nearly broke her arm climbing to the highest spot to take photos while Hans drives through. I must say he really did a good job.

 We now moved on to The Desolation Valley. The name says it all, what was beyond our wildest dreams. We saw in this total desolation a herd of between 200 and 300 Springbucks.  Oryx and Ostrich were just as many, a round every hill, where there were an open plain, there were Game.

The Rocks have amazing shapes in the Desolation Valley

The mountains had the most interesting shapes and colours. The rocks were different from one area to the following one.

We got to “GAT AS FOUNTAIN” This is an Oases in the semi Dessert. There we saw hundreds of Namaqualand Sand Grouse, two Black stripe Jackals.  On the hill there were ancient DAMARA DWELLINGS inside one of them between the stones there is a visitor’s book to sign. That was fascinating to read what everybody was saying and so many languages. Just proves that Namibia is really a tourist paradise for foreigners.

This is a little jewel to sleep, but they ask tourist to respect the animal’s private drinking hole. So PLEASE DONT CAMP THERE. We left to look for a suitable place to sleep the night. High up on the Escarpment Hans thought this will be nice place overlooking the plains.

Pied Crow sharing our breakfast.

Sunset in the Desert

We got visitor soon after we sat down to watch the beautiful sunset.
Two Pied Crow came to see what they can get for Supper. Our meal tonight was a pasta one pot, as Marianna always said. Elisme made a cheese cream sauce with Spinach (still from Shanhaz). She would say” well Guys,   please dig in” I can promise you we did. The Pied Crows got their fare share of bread. We watched them gobbling in the bread, and then flow off. It didn’t take long for them to return. After a while Hans watched them with the binoculars. They went to hide the bread in their pantry for another day.

Friday morning we woke up by the call of the Pied Crows,. They were ready for coffee and to share our rusks with us. What they didn’t know was, no ruskes, just EAT SUM MORE BISCUITS. That didn’t bother them; they were soon part of the morning feast. They made themselves so at home, right at our feet.  They followed the same routine, eating flying away and coming again.

Hans drove to the hill where they have there pantry. He got out and there it was, neatly stored between stones and then a stone on top. They are so clever, not one pantry a few.  So if any enemy take, one pantries food they still have some left. We learned so many good life lesson form nature on this trip..

 Not far from us we saw a herd of Kudu’s. They have such good ears, the slightest movement and they run. This time we were lucky we got a nice picture.

Agab River with its beautiful Anna trees.

The road was getting worse, the GPS Was warning us to a bad bad road with sharp rocks. We had to pass another swamp area, to the Agab River.
This was once again an extra ordinary beautiful terrain, big Anna trees and white sand. The rocks in this valley were layered white and black. Some was different shades of all the brown. We had our lunch under a tree,

Black and White layer rocks. Ever seen something so beautiful

We headed for mile 108; we want to see how that looks. Louis said we can get camping there for 5 days in December. This will not work for us, ‘long drop toilets’ MATTHYS and INGRID our grandchildren will not know what to do. This is ‘TOILETS’ long before their time. They only hear about them in stories.

Hans thought it will be better to sleep in the Desert then there. So we moved on to another desolated road, which took us to a dry River bed.

Mr. Jackal welcoming us in the River bed.

The Jackals must like us; here we had Mr. Jackal lying on the River Bank waiting for us. He was send by the local committee to welcome us, or so it looked. He just waved his tail and watched us putting up camp.  I have no idea when it left, hours later he was gone.

Elisme had Spaghetti bolognaise for the evening meal in mind. Hans was quite happy with that. The wind was blowing cold from the sea and we were looking forward to a early evening reading.

The tranquillity of this outstretched world, with nothing and nobody let you sleep like when you last were a baby. That is just what we did, we slept like babies. The sun was way up in the sky when we woke up. The Jackal was missing and only two tiny birds were flapping around. They were too small for me to recognise.

What a privellege to camp all by yourself

Cigarettes?????????????? No a extra ordinary rock 

Hans, Elisme, with their friends from Switzerland Nadin and Rodger

 Two cups of coffee and EAT SUM MORE biscuits, OUMAS RUSKES are finish.  When Hans broke the silence with our morning scripture it sounded like an echo. I am sure GOD must have heard every word of that. Nobody talk to him in this desolated world.

Hentties Bay was 58 km for where we were according to the GPS. Hans inspect another camping site. This time we were very impressed, each camping site has its own Toilet and scullery. The total lay out was really very good planning. Sorry, but they were full for this December. The girl asked, “Do we want to book for 2012.” This is understandable with this standard. Congratulations on this Henties Bay.

Rodger and Nadin were waiting for us in Swakopmund at The Village Cafe. We sms them,  we are now on our way.  Eight Overland trucks passed us on their way with tourists to The Seal farm. This was just another proof of the success of Namibia as a tourism destination. I wish South Africa was so successful. Suzette emailed me that the bookings in Hermanus and around was less this year then the previous year. May be that was because of the world Cup in2010. Let hope so, and that South Africa is still a high priority for overseas tourists. I must say that must of the tourists we met on our way all what to see Cape Town and the Kruger National Park. Most of the Safari guys ends their trips in South Africa, so there is hope for us.   The only thing to change in South Africa is our image of crime and danger.

We had a nice re union with Rodger and Nadin. They just couldn’t get a Visa for Angola and DRC. These two countries really make it so difficult for travellers to get their visas. Many of the people we met had the same problem, so they ship their cars from Point Nior to Walvis Bay and then fly via Johannesburg South Africa back to Windhoek to continue their journey.

We had so much to tell, that we thought it a idea to go for an German meal, seeing that we’re in “German Country” .  

Natures own toilet.  Please just dont forget your toilet paper. keep nature as PRISTINE  as it is!!!!!!!!  

We went 12 km out Swakop to Sophia’s Camping site. Hans wants to sort out the Land Rover and the dew close to the sea is very heavy in the mornings. The Germans who camped with us at Epupa highly recommended Sophia’s camping site. I must say the grounds and the Ablutions block is  spotless clean and believe it HOT SHOWERS. This was the first camp where they deliver ‘HOT  BROTCHEN’”\7o’clock in the morning. This was now really a BIG TREAT.

Next time Walvis Bay to Luderitz, and all the Dunes.