Marienfluss - Hartmansvalley, Puros Gorge - Oarub River -Ongongo

07-11-2011 MarienFluzz

Hans and Landy at Rooi Drom

Ova Himba village

Syncro Lodge of Koos Verwey all that is left after the Fire

Koos knows this part of Kaokoland, he was born in Namibia and live here for the past 22 years. He knows the plants and the people. He says the Ovambos are excellent business men. Their way of thinking that is why Namibia is as prosperous as a country. The people are friendly and peaceful. Tourists flock to Namibia; here you can sleep without fear. You don’t lock your camping gear away, nobody will take it.

Monday morning we set off to Upowa. Gerrit Has a Supermarket and bottle store where you can fill up your supplies. Elisme posted the blog and send emails to the children saying they are going to the Marienfluss and will have no way of contact for the next 10 days.

The road is very sandy and some places stony. Where they crossed the river beds it looks like a little paradise, Makalani Palm trees and rocks makes a nice bush camp. This is still Ova Himba country. We visit an Ova Himba graveyard. Their believe is to put, thorn branches and ox horns in them to protect the diseased. Nobody and the bad spirits will come there, so they can rest in peace.

The Springbuck share this country with the Ova Himba. They seem to live together in harmony. They graze and just look up when the vehicle pass, then continue to graze.

Hans and Elisme got a nice bush camp spot under a tree. Supper was a light one with salad made of pilchards, butterbean, tomatoes, onion, parsley, oregano with red peppers on fresh bread. Soon they were in the boudoir reading.

This time they woke up by the roar of a Lion or was it an Ostrich? That they will never know.  They pack up have coffee with a look over their shoulders for the Lion, just then the ROAR shacked the open plains again. Hans decided it is time to go, the safety of the vehicle is much better.

This terrain reminded them a lot of the Serengeti, open plains with Springbuck, Ostrich, Zebra and even Giraffes. The mountain far on the horizon were 3 different shades, they have the strangest shapes.  Just as they riches the top of the river bed, a Toyota 2 wheel was stucked in the sand. Hans got out and talk to them; they couldn’t move and was digging and trying leaves under the wheels. The Himba mother with her toddler was sitting on a rock in the sun. Hans manoeuvre   the Land Rover on another spoor, and then reversed to pull them out. Elisme took the opportunity to take a nice picture of mother and child; she gave them a bottle of cool drink,  biscuits with a tin of pate. I wonder if they knew what to do with the pate? They were very grateful, I think they thought Hans is going to pass and leave them.

Land Rover Saving a 2x4 Toyota

We woke up by the ROAR of a LION????????? Ostrich????????

Gratefull Himba Mummy and her Toddler

And her I am with my Baby

The road to “ROOIDROM” was getting worse and very narrow; Hans went very careful over the boulders in the road. “ROOIDROM’ is a well known beacon in the Kaokoland; there is nothing just a red drum and cattle lying under the trees. Everybody stop to write their names on a stone and place it underneath the red drum. The red drum is in memory of Jan Joubert, who loved the Kaokoland and Namibia and was murdered in Namibia. On our way we met Andy with his tourists from Germany again.  Andy according to Koos is a very good tour guide,

Going up another steep hill, we had to turn out of the road for 2 vehicles; they told us there are 2 more to come, so we wait. Strange how some people think, not even a´” thank you”, just taking it for granted that we wait for them.  I wonder what does a “thank you cost”.

When we got to the plains again, Hans saw a car at an Ova  Himba village. This can’t be true, Hans said it is the French people, just then Elisme saw Marian with her beautiful pink dress. Yes this was Michel and Marian on their way to Syncro camp.

Fairy Circles

Mountains with 3 shades

Bad Rocky Road

Here we started to see the ‘FAIRY CIRCLES’ between the grassland. There is no explanation why these circles, where nothing grows. Why just in circles and not in squares or rectangles?

Hans and elisme moved on to the camp. On their way they saw lots of Cori Buster under the trees. Syncro camp belongs to Koos Verwey and is managed by Anna and her daughter Jenny. Two years ago the Lodge here burned down. This was a very sad situation for this camp and Koos. The only thing left was Koos’s  house and the ablution blocks of the camp.

The Camp has a stunning view over the Kunene River and Angola. Our camp site has a little lapa overlooking the rapids. The camp is very well maintained by them. The showers and toilet spotless clean and in working condition.

Risotto was on the menu after Michel and Marian had a sundowner with Hans and Elisme. The wind was blowing and cooling of the night.  The rapids where singing their songs but just as a humming. That was enough to put us to sleep.

Michel was doing his Para gliding tripe over the camp and river. The conditions were excellent for flying so he landed and re-fuel for another 2 hour trip over Kaokoland. He must have taken the most stunning photos. Michel is doing photography for 42 years; he knows what he is doing with his many cameras and different lenses.

Hans and Elisme went for a hike in the mountains; we cannot walk along the river, to many cliffs. In an open gorge they saw  a snow white beach, with a crocodile tanning on the other side in the sun. The opening to the beach was closed with branches. They couldn’t understand why, until Jenny told them the story. On New Year’s Day 2011 a crocodile caught a man. Since then they closed of the beach so that people cannot swim in the tempting turquoise water. From that day the crocodile have the pool for him. Hans has his wits together and when Elisme was getting worried that they are lost. Every mountain looks the same, has had his beacons of the highest mountains. He lead them to the foot path of Anna’s house and back to the camp.

Jenny came to invite them all to go for a swim at a nearby lodge build by Italian owners and managed by a South African. This is really a world class Lodge, with world class prices. We were very privileged to enjoy their swimming pool with another look on the Cunene.

The 5 of us went for a walk to the waterfall which Michel saw when he was Para gliding

Back to the camp Michel and Marian join us for a sundowner , Jenny came to show them how to do bread rolls in the black pot. I must say she knows exactly how to make them.  They really went down with mince and chilli con beans as a hit.

While watching the locals coming for a bath, we heard those throwing stones in the river; ‘BIG ONE’ Jenny explained they do this so that if the crocodile is in the pool near the rapids it will swim away. They can then wash themselves in peace. The men are allowed to bath first and when they’re finish the women can come.

Jenny with her gifts

View of the Kunene from the Italian Lodge

Puros Gorge

Thursday morning after coffee and ruskes, we all said goodbye for Jenny. We didn’t leave without giving her a nice surprise packet with eats and drinks as well as a scarf from South Africa.

Our aim to day is to reach the Hartman valley. We will pass Green Drum, Blue Drum and Orange drum.  The road was the same, stony and sandy.   The road we follow alongside the Skeleton Coast will take us to Orupembe. We were going very slowly not to damage the cars. Hill up and hill down, with wide stretched out valleys, each time we reach the top the view was different. Hans with his Eagle eye spotted a Burchell’s SandGrouse with 3 small chickens.

Ababy chicken of Birchells Sand Grouse

 She was very nerves as we stopped an slowly got out of the car mother and father flew away. The four of us searched the road for the babies. l. That was really very difficult; they are so well camouflaged that it took us quite a time to find.  Michel got his photo shots Then Marian and Elisme watched the babies not to get in front of the wheels, while the boys slowly drove past. Namibia is a country with some much to give. That’s why people come back and just can’t get enough of this barren country, with stretches for miles and miles with not a single soul nearby.

No not SANDTON JOHANNESBURG!!!!!! close to 'ROOI DROM'

 As we came up a hill again we saw 15 vehicles parked and lots of people sitting under gazebos. We stopped and the tour leader Mark came to talk to us, soon the guests were joining him. This group are all working for a Medical company in Francs. They were doing a 7 day trip in Namibia.

We drove on to the end of the Hartman valley against the Skeleton Coast where the Red Duns start. The wind was blowing at a scary speed. There was no way we can camp here; Hans and Michel decided we must move on. The road was taking us to wide open fields with no grass just gravel. What surprised us were the many Oryx and Springbucks. We saw 150 Oryx at one plain with just as many Springbuck. We were wondering where do they get water and they were in an excellent condition. Our conclusion was that the semi desert vegetation was of very high nutritional value. The game is not worried about water so we left it there. They are thriving on their homeland.

Far in the valley Hans saw a couple of trees; then Michel and Marian saw a Double-Banded Sandgrouse, they were not very sure and took a stunning picture. We compare it to the Bird book of Newman’s. This was it. Michele and Marian thought this is a good place to setup camp for the night. We couldn’t ask for a more beautiful sunset. Michel and Hans took beautiful picture.

Look at this Rock

Wind blowing but that doesnt stop a SUNDOWNER

The evening meal Marian did a tasty mince, potato and carrot dish in her “”Three legged black pot“they never use gas, everything goes on the fire. They make an African safari a real one, with a camp fire in the morning and evening. They enjoy the African sky and miles of nothing totally unspoilt nature. Elisme made buns in the black pot as Jenny taught her. With a bottle of wine the meal was true to french cuisine, as or friends.

Look Jenny

Friday morning we said goodbye to Michel and Marian, they wanted to do another root then Hans. So Hans and Elisme continue on the road close to the Skeleton Coast towards Orupemba. This time Anton will e glad to hear his GPS, showed us all the non existing roads and took us to Orupemba. I must say there are so many roads to follow; it looks as every traveller in this area decides to take “HIS OWN ROAD.”

At Orupemble Hans stopped at the Police station for water and to ask about his root he wants to take. They recommended that we take the other road, as it is not advisable for one vehicle to go that way. So we went on the Skeleton Coast road towards the Puros Gorge. The Hoasib River was a little stream with clear water,  the green reeds and grass was a bird paradise.  The Hamerkop thought it a good idea to pause for a photo opportunity; Doepie would have been very impressed. In a pond up the River we saw a Red-knobbed Coot and a Moorhen. The  Blacksmith Plover was just as willing to give us a nice photo shot. We saw Springbuck, Oryx and Giraffes many Elephant droppings but no Elephants. In one of the Gorges there was a high hill with a view forever. Hans thought this will be an ideal camping place for the night, and it was. The only company we had was the Pied Crows. Elisme heard a noise at the back of the Land Rover, there they were.

Chicken and savoury rice was just what we needed for a evening meal. We thought of enjoying the sunset, when we got new visitor. Small muggiest tackling our eyes , ears and noses. That wasn’t nice, so we went in our Boudoir to have an evening of reading.

Coffee and Rusk’s with a view over the Hoarusib River while watching the sunrise. We had two cups of coffee to enjoy this picture unfolding before our eyes. Reluctant we start packing to see the Ganias valley today. The road will take us to along the Hoarusib River Amspoort . then we will drive in the Hoanib River to Dubis and then Ses Fontein.

The Hoarusib River was full of excitement for game viewing. The Giraffes was the first to meet us, followed by Oryx, Springbuck and then Ostrich. While we were watching an Oryx with a small calf far on the River bank under an Anna tree, Elisme saw a huge Elephant bull. As we came closer we saw he has only one broken tooth. The group must have thrown him out. Today was our Elephant day we saw 29 Elephants. We were so privileged to see a new born baby mother still watching it as it lay down, as well as 2 toddlers. Hans said there is no way we camp in this river bed. The Elephants here is known to be aggressive. They have killed a man one night went out for a wee.

Where the Hoarib and the Gnamub comes together they call it “Die Poort” we found a perfect Camp site overlooking the valley. Hans likes to camp with a view, actually he always likes a view, then he can see and have no surprises.

There was a readymade fire place done by previous campers, the coals was still hot. With no effort Hans made a camp fire. Elisme prepared a dough mix to do bread for them. Hans took the opportunity to do a lamb chop. The smell of that was hanging in the valley, but no animals to come and join us. We sat and listen to the quiet night until the moon was raising over the hill tops. Then it was bed time.

There were no animals waking us the next morning, but the view of the sun rising the same way as the moon got us speechless. We sat and have coffee without a word. Then Hans fetched the Bible and did our moment of silents.  We had so much to be thankful for. This beauty of the scene in front of us all the birds and game we saw. You just realise, how great God is who created al this for us humans to enjoy.

Ses fontein was quiet as you could feel it is Sunday. We fill up with Diesel and then found an ATM in a shop to draw money and buy a few items we are short of. Elisme had time to do her emails and read what came in, we then sms the Swiss guys, Rodger and Nadin. They sms they are now in Johannesburg SA. They will come by bus to Windhoek today.

We drove to Ongongo our next camping place. This is a waterfall coming from a hot water spring and falling in a crystal clear pool. The floor of the pool is laid out with small round river stones. high up the cliff the weavers took the opportunity to build their nest on a overhanging rock.

The Namibian sun was taking it toll, Hans and Elisme went in with their cloths, the water was just to tempting. To be honest they just took off their clothes and went in with their underwear. Likely nobody came to swim. Suzette would for sure take the gape to take a few stolen photos; I must say she can let any photo look so good, like Fig tree.

Motor Bikers at Ongongo

They met  guys from Australia Robert and a South African girl Naomi, they are camping to. Robert had the same problem as the Swiss, couldn’t get a Visa for Angola. He shipped his car from Point Noir and then flew from Brazzaville Congo to South Africa Johannesburg. There he met Naomi, they went to Madagascar while waiting for his vehicle to arrive at Walvisbay.

Then Hannibal touring company arrived with 6 motorbikes. They were very pleasant guys. Enjoying Namibia as one said we are doing Windhoek to Windhoek. They were very interested in our tripe.

You could see a little camp fire at each camp site and soon the aroma of “braaivleis” was hanging in the air. Elisme made “PAP” and a brown sauce like Ouma Joe always did. Hans did the “Boerewors “he bought at Gerrits butchery. I must say Gerrit knows what he is doing, his “Boerewors” we can really recommend.

Max who is looking after this camp said the night will cool off, that was true. Soon our duvet was very handy to snuggle up. The frogs had a choir competition tonight; the winner was the one who could make the biggest QUAAAAAAAAAK. Elisme didn’t mind with the murmur of the waterfall in the back ground it was perfect for a nice rest in the wild.

Camp at Ongongo

Ongongo Waterfall and Pool

 Monday morning the camp was quiet long after sunrise. Then everybody was having coffee and some their breakfasts. Soon everybody headed for the pool, the temperature was hitting for the 35 degrees.

Hans and Elisme had a very relaxed day, catching up with their emails on word and doing the block. The Coffee table book was still a lot to do.

Supper was German Pea Soup and fresh baked bread with marrow bones, for Hans. Willem,” Hans had his own COLESTROL DAY” . We had a most enjoyable day, swimming when it was hot just reading and talking. .

Next time Palmwag and future along the River.

Jenny, Michel and Marian in the swimming pool at the Italian Lodge