24-10-2011 Hans and Elisme Epupa falls

Monday morning, 24-10-2011 

Hans and Elisme on tour in Namibia for one month.

The 6 partners said goodbye after five whole months together.  Stephanus and Mariana left for Villiersdorp in the Cape Provence.  Coen and Shanhaz left for Pretoria.

Hans and Elisme always wanted to do a throw tour through Namibia; now is their chance. The children are coming for their December holidays to join them in the Northern Cape and then have Christmas in Swakopmund.

Hans took the Land Rover for a service. He had to go to the Dentist again, the same tooth that gave him problems in Libreville, broke again. Elisme sat in the internet Cafe doing emails and blog.

Hans was finished at 13h00, he joined Elisme at the Dros where they shared a pasta. Then they had to fill the gas bottle, get some “boerewors” and a couple of beers for Hans.

They took the road to the Etosha Game Park.  Hans phoned Stasheimer for a camping place under the trees. They had one and booked it for him. They wanted to stay there for the night and go into the park early as day visitors.

Arriving there, they camped next to guests from Switzerland. They are touring Namibia with a rented vehicle and a roof top tent.

One after the other the rented vehicles came in, all of them foreigners and mostly from Germany. This is a very popular camping spot. They serve Dinner and 38 of the guests join the owner for Dinner. The Ablution and scullery facilities are spotless and very pleasant to use. I must say after the facilities we had in Africa, this was 5 stars. I can see why this is so popular with overseas guests. They don’t come cheap, but you pay for what you get.

Early Tuesday morning everybody in the camp was up long before sunrise. They were all on their way to the Etosha Game Park. We arrived at the gate, registered and then they told us to go to Namatoni gate for the rest of the formalities.

The Park had a huge felt fire in September where 300 000ha burnt, and so many animals killed in this fire.  Five black Rhino’s were burnt too. This is really a big tragedy.

Etosha  close to Namatoni Camp

We soon saw most of the antelope at a waterhole; this was a very pleasant view. All the animals came to drink, Giraffes, Kudu, Gems buck, Springbok, Impala, Zebra and then the Silver back Jackals.

We sat there and had our breakfast while watching the game coming and going. It really looked as if they were taking turns to come and have water; when the one group left the next came.

The Elephants here are white, but that is the colour of the lake’s sand. We saw a few groups of elephants. On our way out to the Andoni gate Hans spotted a Lion. We watched it through our binoculars and just as Hans reached for the camera it disappeared, behind the wall of the lake.

We can really recommend the Etosha to people. If you haven’t been there it is a must.

Tuesday night we slept at Ondangwa Camp Site. New owners took over and they really tried to keep their guests happy. They have many plans for the site. The Restaurant and bar serves good food. Hans was so impressed with their Draft Beer; the glass came out of the deep freeze and was frozen. He says this is the best Beer he had in 5 months and will definitely go back for a beer there.

We met J P and Celia.  JP is doing the tourism Map for Namibia and Celia is helping him. “TRAVEL MAPS NAMIBIA”

Entrance of Kunene River camp

Wednesday we left for the Kunene River Lodge. It is a tar road for the first part and then it becomes a dirt road. This road is well maintained and not to difficult to drive. Hans showed Elisme the previous road, which he had to travel, when they were here on the border. He had to visit his Peloton at Swartboosdrif and Epupa.

 This took him a full day to get here and another day to go back.

We met a HIMBA GIRL; we asked if we can take a photo of her. She agreed for R5 and then when we were done, she asked another R5. We paid that with pleasure, she is beautiful. They have their own culture and this makes them unusual. The men and girls do not where tops; they do a body paint mixture of mud and ox blood.

After paying R20 she let us take a picture

We drove close to the Kunene River that is flowing strong. Hans spotted a crocodile on the banks. We stopped for coffee while watching the bird life.

 As we drove on Hans saw a “THOUGHT ASORUS” when your imagination runs away with you, and you see a rock and think it is a CROCODILE.

The mountains we passed are called the Zebra Mountains, you can see why. They look as if they have stripes like the Zebra. This is bush veld, with Mopani trees and the running water from springs up in the mountain.

Kunene River Lodge has a very well developed camp site. Each camp site is numbered and laid out with rocks. There is a Barbeque place, with a basin and a tap with water. The ablution is spotless. They have a beautiful sparkling blue swimming pool to cool off in. The camping sites all have a view over the River. The Restaurant and bar have a wooden deck on the River. From here you can watch the birds, we saw a Heron on the other side in the reeds.

They saw a unusual bird the Bat Hark, which was really special

Soon our fire was burning high, Celia and JP went on a sunset boat cruise.

As they came back they said the fire looks so beautiful from the river, but more than a bon fire.

We had a chicken dish with pawpaw, for supper.  Amarula coffee ended the meal long after all the flames were red coals.

Amarula Coffee before bedtime at the fire

Camping site at Kunene River Lodge

Our next destination will be Epupa falls at Koos Verwey. They were students at Saldanha Military Academic in 1973. They worked out that they last saw each other 37 years ago. That is a life time. They have so much to catch up. That they do at the fire, drinking a beer and having a sumptuous meal.

Hans turned off to look for a nice Tree to have lunch. He didn’t see the “Sekelbos”. This plant has a stem underneath the ground that cuts a tyre and then pulls out without braking in the tyre.

The Land Rover had its FIRST flat tyre after 29 000 km. Hans was not very pleased, that was an operation to change this tyre. To get the flat tyre back in position at the back was even worse. The lining up of the tyre to the screws was very difficult, Elisme wasn’t of much help.

EPUPA FALLS CAMPING SITE is one of the most beautiful places to be. All the camping sites are on the water.  The spray of the waterfall cools you while you are enjoying the view. Each site has its own wash basin and fire place on the ground. We had our own veranda with deck chairs and a hammock to lay and watch the water falling over the rapids.

Camping site at Epupa wth Koos Verwey

Koos joined us for Supper. Hans made a nice fire and they sat and talked about years ago, back on memory lane. They had lots of fun and the 3 of us shared all their memories.

Elisme prepared a chicken dish with veggies and fresh Pawpaw. The two Boys enjoyed it. Koos said he is a meat man but the Europeans who visits his camp, taught him to start eating veggies. He admits that he actually likes it a lot.

After an Amarula coffee, they all went to bed.

We saw our first Fish eagle in a dry tree across the Falls on the banks. Elisme was asking “why is it not calling” and it was if the eagle heard her. He replied with many calls, so exquisite. What else can he do in this pristine valley?

Hans and Elisme went for a hike to the other side of the waterfall. You climb the mountain for a short distance and then carry on straight.

Boabab? No 

The view is appaling; we thought we saw 3 massive Baobab  trees, just to read in a magazine they’re wild fig trees and “WIT GAT BOOM” - LOOK AT THE PICTURES.

The evening meal was just the 2 of them. Elisme made Peri Peri chicken livers and Potato and Butternut mash. They went to bed and read till late, with only the light of their reading lamps and the only sound was the waterfall. How can you not have a peaceful night’s rest?

Saturday morning they went for a walk to the other side of the Kunene River.  There is a view, more camping sites and a Lodge on this side. Honestly EPUPA RIVER LODGE has the best view and excellent facilities.

Epupa Falls
They spent the day reading and Hans was planning the rest of their trip. Namibia has beautiful places, they want to see everything.
Koos invited them to watch rugby with him; the Curry Cup final is played in South Africa. The Sharks against the Lions, after that we’ll have a barbeque with T-Bones and Chips on the deck.

I am not a LIONS’ supporter but, ‘BOY THEY PLAYED TOGETHER AS A TEAM’. They really taught ME a lesson. Andre Botha’s Mother in Belfast must be ‘OVER THE MOON’ with joy. CONGRATULATIONS!!!

Sunday morning Hans and Elisme asked to attend the Church service with the local community. They are HIMBAS. Samuel came to fetch them at 10 o’clock. This was one of the ‘MOST SPECIAL MOMENTS”! They welcomed us and Samuel was translating for us. His scripture reading was from GENISES. He told everybody, that what we have on this earth was given by GOD. He is the only GOD, we can serve. The Pasteur said that many guests come to stay at Epupa falls camp, but we’re the first to attend their service. They were all thanking us and we could see how much they appreciated it.

They asked us to be witnesses.  Elisme told them of the Muslim countries they went through and how present GOD had been all the time. There were times that nobody could help then and then the presence of the HOLY SPIRIT just took over and took them safely through. She said they are all BROTHERS and SISTERS and that the only way to go to heaven is by accepting GOD THE SON JESUS AND THE HOLY SPIRIT as your Saviour. Then we will meet up in heaven one day. They must all go out and bring a friend next Sunday. They are Sheppard’s for GOD, to bring SOULS to him.

Hans told them about our fears in Nigeria and the Police officers asking for gifts, while swinging their AK 47 in front of us. How he put his hand on the Police Officers shoulder and told him he brought ‘THE LOVE OF JESUS CHRIST’ and then they dropped the gun and said GO GO.

They sang beautiful songs and praised the Lord with their dances. They all came to greet us and then we left.  In our hearts we will always pray for these Christians

Monday morning 31 October we went for a walk to the highest mountain. The view from their over Epupa falls says everything, peace and tranquillity is what you get here. I can understand why people can come here for 6 months just “FINDING THEIR SOULS’

Elisme relaxing looking at the falls

The ROTEL (that is a hotel on wheels) came in with 21 guests. This is quite a unique concept. They eat, sleep, shower and tour in this vehicle. Two people run the ROTEL, Katrina and the driver. They drive, guide, make food and serve the guests. They must be very good; some of their guest have done 30 trips with them.

Koos adopted to girls, Juanine and Diana. Juanine made us butternut soup, which was so tasty; Elisme gave her 100% for that. She baked small little brown bread and a lovely chicken dish with a Greek salad. Janine is only 20 years old and she can really cook well. She runs the reception and speaks English, Afrikaans and Herero.

Diana is 10 years old she is only starting to learn English. She is beautiful and very intelligent. She helps where she can, always smiling.

Wednesday Hans and Elisme went for a walk in the Valley between two mountains. The vegetation here is very bushy with 7 varieties of Paper trees, we saw 3 Brown, Bronze and white ones. A very brave shrub with exquisite white flowers and a yellow centre, fights for his life in this dry sand. You can’t believe that this shrub can bring forth such a beautiful flower between these rocks.

The Governor of this region has called for a meeting with the Community. All the land here is owned by the Community Trust. Koos and the other Lodge owners must have a lease in place. They pay a 6%head fee for each guest visiting their Lodges. That can only be paid into a Trust Bank account. This is one of the Namibian legislations and is a win-win situation. But as with all communities, there is always somebody who doesn't want to work together. So in this place of peace and tranquillity they have this too.

Koos was the only white man attending the meeting, he was quite frustrated. As was the head of the Police, an Ovambo man, he himself couldn’t understand what they really were saying.

We had a sunset drink on the deck and after a nice Rum and Coke,  Koos could “SMELL THE ROSES’ again of this ‘PARADISE GOD GAVE HIM’

Elisme served a Peri Peri Chicken liver with Pao’s a local girl baked in her clay oven. She bought 2 big Baby Marrows from an old man Gabrial, he is 92 years old and still do a big vegetable garden here in the semi desert. Amazing and he says he has no problems except he can’t hear or see so well anymore. He has a problem with his water pipe after the wind storm of the previous night, a corrugated iron sheet fell on his pipe and cut it in half. She filled the Marrows with savoury mince.  Juanine enjoyed it so much and she even had a second helping.

Friday morning Hans and Elisme went for a walk to the ‘BEACH’ believe it or not. Where the Epupa Falls end there is a real beach, but with a warning on the rocks ‘DONT SWIM AT THE BEACH’ - there are crocodiles sun bathing and swimming in the pool, maybe they are hungry.

Koos celebrates his birthday today, we are all invited for his birthday Party. Elisme dressed up with her Cleopatra head dress and everybody loved it. Juanine dressed up in a beautiful evening dress. They all tried to make Koos feel special. Pam, the manager from the Lodge on the Hill, came with Marie Biscuits for the dogs; they were wagging their tails to say thanks. Koos got his favourite Packet of Cappuccino Coffee. They watch rugby together and then share a Cappuccino. Pam gets it from Windhoek, which makes it really special.

Flora and Elisme

Koos on his birthday with Elisme

Friday morning Koos took a 7km walk up the hills through the valley and then back along the Kunene. Hans and Elisme followed in his footsteps, after watching the Frenchmen, Michel, taking photos from his Hang glider. Amazing what people can put in their Safari vehicles these days. They stay in France and leave their car in Windhoek, then tour Namibia with all their gear. At every camp site Michel goes up with the Hang Glider and takes the most beautiful pictures.

Back at the camp a giant Lizard came to say ‘HELLO’.  Today he was willing to do a photo session. He walked from our camp to Michel’s camp and then slowly moved into the water.

The Fish Eagles were doing their morning greetings just after sunrise. They have a nest and mother and father are taking turns to sit on the nest. Sometimes for short whiles they slip away and go for a nice chat in one of the dry trees on the river bank. Just to return shortly after to do their duty on the nest.

Pam made a remark that the Kunene sounded more vicious late night. Hans took the torch to check, al the rocks,that he had as markers, were under water. The night was quiet and only the rumble of the water was lulling them to sleep.

Hans and Elisme can now move on to the Marien Fluss. Koos will maybe never know what this well deserved REST REALLY MENT TO THEM. This was a true recovery of body and soul.

They will be back next year to help Koos with the training of his staff for the new Lodge. Elisme is still working on Hans for the 10 day walk from Epupa Falls to Marien Fluss.

 Next time meet us in the Marien Flusss