Palmwag - Damara Land

 Palmwag Damara Land,

Tuesday we left Ongongo to Palmwag. Just where we entered the main road we got cell reception.  We phoned Rodger and Nadin, they were on the bus at Upington to Windhoek. They will make contact with us when they’re in Windhoek.

Hunky ready for the Far North of Namibia

Palmwag Conservation on top of a hill somewhere to nowhere. We saw people were camping there but the only thing left, were the ashes of the camp fire and ELEPHANT DUNG. Hans could not believe here in the middle of this semi desert, no trees and ELEPHANT DUNG. We then drove in a branch of the Uniab  River about 10 km from where we first saw the  Dung. As we decent to the River bed, on the River Bank across Hans saw an Elephant. Then we saw the family, father, Mum and toddler. Soon we saw the herd, 23 of them. We are so privileged to saw so many Desert Elephants.  

On the GPS  it said this is a restricted area. Hans as always the law obedient Citizen, drove across the field with big stones, ‘SEKELBOS’ but Hans must get out. Eventually we got back to the main road with no “”PUNTURES”

Our only friend on the way back to the main road.

It was now time to look for camping.  A game viewing vehicle was watching something, as we approach, our FIRST KUDU, no not ONE, 5 big Bulls. They were not impressed with our presence

So no nice photo’s to put on the blog. Hans saw a big quarry, which will hide the vehicle from the eye of by passers. That was a safe haven for the night. As we turn we were disturbing 2 Silver Back Jackals. One was not at all bother with us, just continue to lay and watch us. As Hans switched of the Landy, she gave us a “Why This” look and slowly moved away, looking over her shoulder, but no hurry.

Hans made a juicy Rump steak in the Tachine with “POTBROOD” Elisme join in on the bread and a mug of her favourite “HOT CHOCOLAT’. This was the culprit, for a middle of the night ‘Bladder call’. Hans had no choice but to open the door and check for any danger.

Wednesday morning we set of Palmwag, diesel was on the list and cell connection. Elisme want to post the blog and both of them to do email. Then they must contact Rodger and Nadin. They’re now in Windhoek and will leave for Swakop on Friday. We’ll meet them there.

What a pleasant surprise, as Hans was busy with re fuelling 6 LAND ROVERS   stopped at the filling station. Land Rover owners always greet each other, and have a conversation about their vehicle, where are you going, and from where are you coming. JOHAN LOUW was the leader of this group. He is from Germany and does his companies LAND ROVER EXPERIENCES safari leader and does Safari’s all over the world.

Johan Louw with his Safari group "LAND ROVER EXPERIENCE"

 He is really a very pleasant person. He knows his vehicles and his planned Safari. Soon we were having a nice conversation on every body’s experiences. We left with promises to follow the blog and make contact once Johan is back in Germany.

Our lunch was going to be at, Twyfelfontein. Daniel and Alida will be glad to here we went back. The last time we were camping with them at Twyfelfontein. Daniel took us to a Lodge with the most stunning view. Now we know this Lodge, the Airstrip Petrol Station and work shop belongs to a Mr. De Beer.  

Elisme was still busy with doing the photos for the blog. This really takes a long time. Hans got permission for us to do our picnic lunch at the camp site. He met Martin and Claudia they were having a drink.

Hans came back to Elisme and said he met these most interesting people born Austria and now living in Cape Town South Africa. He wants to go and talk to them, as they have just completed the root we want to take. 

Hans and Elisme had a delicious meal of Chicken Risotto with baby potatoes. Martin and Claudia came to meet Elisme and Said goodbye.

We left for the Rendezvous village, Louis, Andreas and Anton will remember the RENDEZVOUS in Pretoria our guest house where they grew up. I am sure they do have many memories of that. This Rendezvous is only a water pump for the animals to come and drink, so they have their RENDEZVOUS here.  I am sure they have many ‘THANK YOU’S’ for who every drilled this borehole. At least they do not have to go thirsty anymore.

Elephant much more interested in 'LUNCH' than any human been.

We entered the Huab River bed with big Anna Trees; once again we saw Elephant droppings and their footprints. As we go along, then we saw a game viewing vehicle from Wilderness Safaris they have concessions in Namibia.
Then Hans saw the first Elephant to our surprise there was a vehicle between the Elephants. This was Martin and Claudia, relaxed watching the Elephants as they graze their way down the River enjoying the Anna trees. Hans couldn't believe them sitting there and the elephant just grazing and sometimes flapping their ears and then passing by. We watched this herd of 20 plus Elephants with tiny babies, mothers and aunts protecting them.  This was a true example of human not disturbing the wild and the wild excepting the human been.

2 Landies happy for the night. Martin and Hans 2 very proud Land Rover owners

 We stopped to say hello and ended up leaving the next day at mid day. Martin and Claudia ar two very interesting people, they have travelled East Africa from South to North and then from East to West. The four of us had so much to share. We were talking and preparing a 5 star Dinner as Claudia has remarked till the clock stroke 1 hour pass midnight.  We could talk about any National Park they have been there. They really love the unspoiled and most desolated places. What Elisme liked most was; “. Daniel this was now a real ‘BON FIRE” every time the fire started to fade Claudia came with another dry half tree. Hans was responsible for baking the bread, Elisme made a three bean soup with baby potatoes. The soup bones went on the fire to brown, and the marrow was for the bread. Martin roasted the chicken wings and Peri Peri veggies. Claudia made an onion rice to die for. Martin opened a bottle of red wine.

Martin helping Hans with his GPS'S

Martin’s Land Rover TD5 is extremely well equipped. He has tested every gatched on the Land Rover and everything worked perfect. From the roof that lifts for their bed which is 1,5m high to the gas shower and a pump to make sure the water flow don’t stop. His coffee and breakfast bar work in 1 minute after he has stopped. No rain will every bother them, they have a double canvas over the Landy. Elisme thinks their Landy is well equipped but when she saw, Martins “Pig Bladder” on the bonnet for hot shower, she made a mental note for Christmas.

We came as strangers but left as friends, as so many times on this trip. Martin and Claudia will be on our visit list next time we go down to Cape Town. They will come and see the ‘OLD” Easten Transvaal” and spent time with Hans and Elisme.

What do you think, DEAD or SLEEPING????????????

About 3 km away from Martin and Claudia we saw the Elephants and under a tree there lies a dead Elephant. First we thought it must be sleeping, but Elisme said she has never seen an Elephant lying down to sleep, it must be dead.
We watched it for a while took photos and then decide to go back and tell Martin and Claudia. We saw a Landy coming; Martin flashed his light and told us the bee’s attacked them just after we left. He got stung twice; they just throw everything in the car and drove off. We told them about the dead Elephant; Martin asked whether we were sure it’s dead?   We said we have never seen an Elephant lying down to sleep. He said Claudia read in a book, that the Dessert Elephant do that. So here we go, is the Elephant dead or sleeping. Hans took the GPS Coordinates. This is the tree and there the Elephant is standing, so it did arose from the DEATH. We learned something new about Elephants. Thanks to Martin and Claudia. They said they are just going to stay there and watched the Elephants.

Hans and Elisme moved on with the Huab, this road cross the Huab swamps. The GPS describes it as a very difficult crossing.

Hans coming in at the very difficult obstacle

 You can see the vehicles rather turn around here to take another road. Hans got out and as a good 4x4 driver first walked his obstacle. Elisme took photos of him doing it. After his observation, he was ready to drive through. Elisme nearly broke her arm climbing to the highest spot to take photos while Hans drives through. I must say he really did a good job.

 We now moved on to The Desolation Valley. The name says it all, what was beyond our wildest dreams. We saw in this total desolation a herd of between 200 and 300 Springbucks.  Oryx and Ostrich were just as many, a round every hill, where there were an open plain, there were Game.

The Rocks have amazing shapes in the Desolation Valley

The mountains had the most interesting shapes and colours. The rocks were different from one area to the following one.

We got to “GAT AS FOUNTAIN” This is an Oases in the semi Dessert. There we saw hundreds of Namaqualand Sand Grouse, two Black stripe Jackals.  On the hill there were ancient DAMARA DWELLINGS inside one of them between the stones there is a visitor’s book to sign. That was fascinating to read what everybody was saying and so many languages. Just proves that Namibia is really a tourist paradise for foreigners.

This is a little jewel to sleep, but they ask tourist to respect the animal’s private drinking hole. So PLEASE DONT CAMP THERE. We left to look for a suitable place to sleep the night. High up on the Escarpment Hans thought this will be nice place overlooking the plains.

Pied Crow sharing our breakfast.

Sunset in the Desert

We got visitor soon after we sat down to watch the beautiful sunset.
Two Pied Crow came to see what they can get for Supper. Our meal tonight was a pasta one pot, as Marianna always said. Elisme made a cheese cream sauce with Spinach (still from Shanhaz). She would say” well Guys,   please dig in” I can promise you we did. The Pied Crows got their fare share of bread. We watched them gobbling in the bread, and then flow off. It didn’t take long for them to return. After a while Hans watched them with the binoculars. They went to hide the bread in their pantry for another day.

Friday morning we woke up by the call of the Pied Crows,. They were ready for coffee and to share our rusks with us. What they didn’t know was, no ruskes, just EAT SUM MORE BISCUITS. That didn’t bother them; they were soon part of the morning feast. They made themselves so at home, right at our feet.  They followed the same routine, eating flying away and coming again.

Hans drove to the hill where they have there pantry. He got out and there it was, neatly stored between stones and then a stone on top. They are so clever, not one pantry a few.  So if any enemy take, one pantries food they still have some left. We learned so many good life lesson form nature on this trip..

 Not far from us we saw a herd of Kudu’s. They have such good ears, the slightest movement and they run. This time we were lucky we got a nice picture.

Agab River with its beautiful Anna trees.

The road was getting worse, the GPS Was warning us to a bad bad road with sharp rocks. We had to pass another swamp area, to the Agab River.
This was once again an extra ordinary beautiful terrain, big Anna trees and white sand. The rocks in this valley were layered white and black. Some was different shades of all the brown. We had our lunch under a tree,

Black and White layer rocks. Ever seen something so beautiful

We headed for mile 108; we want to see how that looks. Louis said we can get camping there for 5 days in December. This will not work for us, ‘long drop toilets’ MATTHYS and INGRID our grandchildren will not know what to do. This is ‘TOILETS’ long before their time. They only hear about them in stories.

Hans thought it will be better to sleep in the Desert then there. So we moved on to another desolated road, which took us to a dry River bed.

Mr. Jackal welcoming us in the River bed.

The Jackals must like us; here we had Mr. Jackal lying on the River Bank waiting for us. He was send by the local committee to welcome us, or so it looked. He just waved his tail and watched us putting up camp.  I have no idea when it left, hours later he was gone.

Elisme had Spaghetti bolognaise for the evening meal in mind. Hans was quite happy with that. The wind was blowing cold from the sea and we were looking forward to a early evening reading.

The tranquillity of this outstretched world, with nothing and nobody let you sleep like when you last were a baby. That is just what we did, we slept like babies. The sun was way up in the sky when we woke up. The Jackal was missing and only two tiny birds were flapping around. They were too small for me to recognise.

What a privellege to camp all by yourself

Cigarettes?????????????? No a extra ordinary rock 

Hans, Elisme, with their friends from Switzerland Nadin and Rodger

 Two cups of coffee and EAT SUM MORE biscuits, OUMAS RUSKES are finish.  When Hans broke the silence with our morning scripture it sounded like an echo. I am sure GOD must have heard every word of that. Nobody talk to him in this desolated world.

Hentties Bay was 58 km for where we were according to the GPS. Hans inspect another camping site. This time we were very impressed, each camping site has its own Toilet and scullery. The total lay out was really very good planning. Sorry, but they were full for this December. The girl asked, “Do we want to book for 2012.” This is understandable with this standard. Congratulations on this Henties Bay.

Rodger and Nadin were waiting for us in Swakopmund at The Village Cafe. We sms them,  we are now on our way.  Eight Overland trucks passed us on their way with tourists to The Seal farm. This was just another proof of the success of Namibia as a tourism destination. I wish South Africa was so successful. Suzette emailed me that the bookings in Hermanus and around was less this year then the previous year. May be that was because of the world Cup in2010. Let hope so, and that South Africa is still a high priority for overseas tourists. I must say that must of the tourists we met on our way all what to see Cape Town and the Kruger National Park. Most of the Safari guys ends their trips in South Africa, so there is hope for us.   The only thing to change in South Africa is our image of crime and danger.

We had a nice re union with Rodger and Nadin. They just couldn’t get a Visa for Angola and DRC. These two countries really make it so difficult for travellers to get their visas. Many of the people we met had the same problem, so they ship their cars from Point Nior to Walvis Bay and then fly via Johannesburg South Africa back to Windhoek to continue their journey.

We had so much to tell, that we thought it a idea to go for an German meal, seeing that we’re in “German Country” .  

Natures own toilet.  Please just dont forget your toilet paper. keep nature as PRISTINE  as it is!!!!!!!!  

We went 12 km out Swakop to Sophia’s Camping site. Hans wants to sort out the Land Rover and the dew close to the sea is very heavy in the mornings. The Germans who camped with us at Epupa highly recommended Sophia’s camping site. I must say the grounds and the Ablutions block is  spotless clean and believe it HOT SHOWERS. This was the first camp where they deliver ‘HOT  BROTCHEN’”\7o’clock in the morning. This was now really a BIG TREAT.

Next time Walvis Bay to Luderitz, and all the Dunes.

 

Marienfluss - Hartmansvalley, Puros Gorge - Oarub River -Ongongo

07-11-2011 MarienFluzz

Hans and Landy at Rooi Drom

Ova Himba village

Syncro Lodge of Koos Verwey all that is left after the Fire

Koos knows this part of Kaokoland, he was born in Namibia and live here for the past 22 years. He knows the plants and the people. He says the Ovambos are excellent business men. Their way of thinking that is why Namibia is as prosperous as a country. The people are friendly and peaceful. Tourists flock to Namibia; here you can sleep without fear. You don’t lock your camping gear away, nobody will take it.

Monday morning we set off to Upowa. Gerrit Has a Supermarket and bottle store where you can fill up your supplies. Elisme posted the blog and send emails to the children saying they are going to the Marienfluss and will have no way of contact for the next 10 days.

The road is very sandy and some places stony. Where they crossed the river beds it looks like a little paradise, Makalani Palm trees and rocks makes a nice bush camp. This is still Ova Himba country. We visit an Ova Himba graveyard. Their believe is to put, thorn branches and ox horns in them to protect the diseased. Nobody and the bad spirits will come there, so they can rest in peace.

The Springbuck share this country with the Ova Himba. They seem to live together in harmony. They graze and just look up when the vehicle pass, then continue to graze.

Hans and Elisme got a nice bush camp spot under a tree. Supper was a light one with salad made of pilchards, butterbean, tomatoes, onion, parsley, oregano with red peppers on fresh bread. Soon they were in the boudoir reading.

This time they woke up by the roar of a Lion or was it an Ostrich? That they will never know.  They pack up have coffee with a look over their shoulders for the Lion, just then the ROAR shacked the open plains again. Hans decided it is time to go, the safety of the vehicle is much better.

This terrain reminded them a lot of the Serengeti, open plains with Springbuck, Ostrich, Zebra and even Giraffes. The mountain far on the horizon were 3 different shades, they have the strangest shapes.  Just as they riches the top of the river bed, a Toyota 2 wheel was stucked in the sand. Hans got out and talk to them; they couldn’t move and was digging and trying leaves under the wheels. The Himba mother with her toddler was sitting on a rock in the sun. Hans manoeuvre   the Land Rover on another spoor, and then reversed to pull them out. Elisme took the opportunity to take a nice picture of mother and child; she gave them a bottle of cool drink,  biscuits with a tin of pate. I wonder if they knew what to do with the pate? They were very grateful, I think they thought Hans is going to pass and leave them.

Land Rover Saving a 2x4 Toyota

We woke up by the ROAR of a LION????????? Ostrich????????

Gratefull Himba Mummy and her Toddler

And her I am with my Baby

The road to “ROOIDROM” was getting worse and very narrow; Hans went very careful over the boulders in the road. “ROOIDROM’ is a well known beacon in the Kaokoland; there is nothing just a red drum and cattle lying under the trees. Everybody stop to write their names on a stone and place it underneath the red drum. The red drum is in memory of Jan Joubert, who loved the Kaokoland and Namibia and was murdered in Namibia. On our way we met Andy with his tourists from Germany again.  Andy according to Koos is a very good tour guide,

Going up another steep hill, we had to turn out of the road for 2 vehicles; they told us there are 2 more to come, so we wait. Strange how some people think, not even a´” thank you”, just taking it for granted that we wait for them.  I wonder what does a “thank you cost”.

When we got to the plains again, Hans saw a car at an Ova  Himba village. This can’t be true, Hans said it is the French people, just then Elisme saw Marian with her beautiful pink dress. Yes this was Michel and Marian on their way to Syncro camp.

Fairy Circles

Mountains with 3 shades

Bad Rocky Road

Here we started to see the ‘FAIRY CIRCLES’ between the grassland. There is no explanation why these circles, where nothing grows. Why just in circles and not in squares or rectangles?

Hans and elisme moved on to the camp. On their way they saw lots of Cori Buster under the trees. Syncro camp belongs to Koos Verwey and is managed by Anna and her daughter Jenny. Two years ago the Lodge here burned down. This was a very sad situation for this camp and Koos. The only thing left was Koos’s  house and the ablution blocks of the camp.

The Camp has a stunning view over the Kunene River and Angola. Our camp site has a little lapa overlooking the rapids. The camp is very well maintained by them. The showers and toilet spotless clean and in working condition.

Risotto was on the menu after Michel and Marian had a sundowner with Hans and Elisme. The wind was blowing and cooling of the night.  The rapids where singing their songs but just as a humming. That was enough to put us to sleep.

Michel was doing his Para gliding tripe over the camp and river. The conditions were excellent for flying so he landed and re-fuel for another 2 hour trip over Kaokoland. He must have taken the most stunning photos. Michel is doing photography for 42 years; he knows what he is doing with his many cameras and different lenses.

Hans and Elisme went for a hike in the mountains; we cannot walk along the river, to many cliffs. In an open gorge they saw  a snow white beach, with a crocodile tanning on the other side in the sun. The opening to the beach was closed with branches. They couldn’t understand why, until Jenny told them the story. On New Year’s Day 2011 a crocodile caught a man. Since then they closed of the beach so that people cannot swim in the tempting turquoise water. From that day the crocodile have the pool for him. Hans has his wits together and when Elisme was getting worried that they are lost. Every mountain looks the same, has had his beacons of the highest mountains. He lead them to the foot path of Anna’s house and back to the camp.

Jenny came to invite them all to go for a swim at a nearby lodge build by Italian owners and managed by a South African. This is really a world class Lodge, with world class prices. We were very privileged to enjoy their swimming pool with another look on the Cunene.

The 5 of us went for a walk to the waterfall which Michel saw when he was Para gliding

Back to the camp Michel and Marian join us for a sundowner , Jenny came to show them how to do bread rolls in the black pot. I must say she knows exactly how to make them.  They really went down with mince and chilli con beans as a hit.

While watching the locals coming for a bath, we heard those throwing stones in the river; ‘BIG ONE’ Jenny explained they do this so that if the crocodile is in the pool near the rapids it will swim away. They can then wash themselves in peace. The men are allowed to bath first and when they’re finish the women can come.

Jenny with her gifts

View of the Kunene from the Italian Lodge

Puros Gorge

Thursday morning after coffee and ruskes, we all said goodbye for Jenny. We didn’t leave without giving her a nice surprise packet with eats and drinks as well as a scarf from South Africa.

Our aim to day is to reach the Hartman valley. We will pass Green Drum, Blue Drum and Orange drum.  The road was the same, stony and sandy.   The road we follow alongside the Skeleton Coast will take us to Orupembe. We were going very slowly not to damage the cars. Hill up and hill down, with wide stretched out valleys, each time we reach the top the view was different. Hans with his Eagle eye spotted a Burchell’s SandGrouse with 3 small chickens.

Ababy chicken of Birchells Sand Grouse

 She was very nerves as we stopped an slowly got out of the car mother and father flew away. The four of us searched the road for the babies. l. That was really very difficult; they are so well camouflaged that it took us quite a time to find.  Michel got his photo shots Then Marian and Elisme watched the babies not to get in front of the wheels, while the boys slowly drove past. Namibia is a country with some much to give. That’s why people come back and just can’t get enough of this barren country, with stretches for miles and miles with not a single soul nearby.

No not SANDTON JOHANNESBURG!!!!!! close to 'ROOI DROM'

 As we came up a hill again we saw 15 vehicles parked and lots of people sitting under gazebos. We stopped and the tour leader Mark came to talk to us, soon the guests were joining him. This group are all working for a Medical company in Francs. They were doing a 7 day trip in Namibia.

We drove on to the end of the Hartman valley against the Skeleton Coast where the Red Duns start. The wind was blowing at a scary speed. There was no way we can camp here; Hans and Michel decided we must move on. The road was taking us to wide open fields with no grass just gravel. What surprised us were the many Oryx and Springbucks. We saw 150 Oryx at one plain with just as many Springbuck. We were wondering where do they get water and they were in an excellent condition. Our conclusion was that the semi desert vegetation was of very high nutritional value. The game is not worried about water so we left it there. They are thriving on their homeland.

Far in the valley Hans saw a couple of trees; then Michel and Marian saw a Double-Banded Sandgrouse, they were not very sure and took a stunning picture. We compare it to the Bird book of Newman’s. This was it. Michele and Marian thought this is a good place to setup camp for the night. We couldn’t ask for a more beautiful sunset. Michel and Hans took beautiful picture.

Look at this Rock

Wind blowing but that doesnt stop a SUNDOWNER

The evening meal Marian did a tasty mince, potato and carrot dish in her “”Three legged black pot“they never use gas, everything goes on the fire. They make an African safari a real one, with a camp fire in the morning and evening. They enjoy the African sky and miles of nothing totally unspoilt nature. Elisme made buns in the black pot as Jenny taught her. With a bottle of wine the meal was true to french cuisine, as or friends.

Look Jenny

Friday morning we said goodbye to Michel and Marian, they wanted to do another root then Hans. So Hans and Elisme continue on the road close to the Skeleton Coast towards Orupemba. This time Anton will e glad to hear his GPS, showed us all the non existing roads and took us to Orupemba. I must say there are so many roads to follow; it looks as every traveller in this area decides to take “HIS OWN ROAD.”

At Orupemble Hans stopped at the Police station for water and to ask about his root he wants to take. They recommended that we take the other road, as it is not advisable for one vehicle to go that way. So we went on the Skeleton Coast road towards the Puros Gorge. The Hoasib River was a little stream with clear water,  the green reeds and grass was a bird paradise.  The Hamerkop thought it a good idea to pause for a photo opportunity; Doepie would have been very impressed. In a pond up the River we saw a Red-knobbed Coot and a Moorhen. The  Blacksmith Plover was just as willing to give us a nice photo shot. We saw Springbuck, Oryx and Giraffes many Elephant droppings but no Elephants. In one of the Gorges there was a high hill with a view forever. Hans thought this will be an ideal camping place for the night, and it was. The only company we had was the Pied Crows. Elisme heard a noise at the back of the Land Rover, there they were.

Chicken and savoury rice was just what we needed for a evening meal. We thought of enjoying the sunset, when we got new visitor. Small muggiest tackling our eyes , ears and noses. That wasn’t nice, so we went in our Boudoir to have an evening of reading.

Coffee and Rusk’s with a view over the Hoarusib River while watching the sunrise. We had two cups of coffee to enjoy this picture unfolding before our eyes. Reluctant we start packing to see the Ganias valley today. The road will take us to along the Hoarusib River Amspoort . then we will drive in the Hoanib River to Dubis and then Ses Fontein.

The Hoarusib River was full of excitement for game viewing. The Giraffes was the first to meet us, followed by Oryx, Springbuck and then Ostrich. While we were watching an Oryx with a small calf far on the River bank under an Anna tree, Elisme saw a huge Elephant bull. As we came closer we saw he has only one broken tooth. The group must have thrown him out. Today was our Elephant day we saw 29 Elephants. We were so privileged to see a new born baby mother still watching it as it lay down, as well as 2 toddlers. Hans said there is no way we camp in this river bed. The Elephants here is known to be aggressive. They have killed a man one night went out for a wee.

Where the Hoarib and the Gnamub comes together they call it “Die Poort” we found a perfect Camp site overlooking the valley. Hans likes to camp with a view, actually he always likes a view, then he can see and have no surprises.

There was a readymade fire place done by previous campers, the coals was still hot. With no effort Hans made a camp fire. Elisme prepared a dough mix to do bread for them. Hans took the opportunity to do a lamb chop. The smell of that was hanging in the valley, but no animals to come and join us. We sat and listen to the quiet night until the moon was raising over the hill tops. Then it was bed time.

There were no animals waking us the next morning, but the view of the sun rising the same way as the moon got us speechless. We sat and have coffee without a word. Then Hans fetched the Bible and did our moment of silents.  We had so much to be thankful for. This beauty of the scene in front of us all the birds and game we saw. You just realise, how great God is who created al this for us humans to enjoy.

Ses fontein was quiet as you could feel it is Sunday. We fill up with Diesel and then found an ATM in a shop to draw money and buy a few items we are short of. Elisme had time to do her emails and read what came in, we then sms the Swiss guys, Rodger and Nadin. They sms they are now in Johannesburg SA. They will come by bus to Windhoek today.

We drove to Ongongo our next camping place. This is a waterfall coming from a hot water spring and falling in a crystal clear pool. The floor of the pool is laid out with small round river stones. high up the cliff the weavers took the opportunity to build their nest on a overhanging rock.

The Namibian sun was taking it toll, Hans and Elisme went in with their cloths, the water was just to tempting. To be honest they just took off their clothes and went in with their underwear. Likely nobody came to swim. Suzette would for sure take the gape to take a few stolen photos; I must say she can let any photo look so good, like Fig tree.

Motor Bikers at Ongongo

They met  guys from Australia Robert and a South African girl Naomi, they are camping to. Robert had the same problem as the Swiss, couldn’t get a Visa for Angola. He shipped his car from Point Noir and then flew from Brazzaville Congo to South Africa Johannesburg. There he met Naomi, they went to Madagascar while waiting for his vehicle to arrive at Walvisbay.

Then Hannibal touring company arrived with 6 motorbikes. They were very pleasant guys. Enjoying Namibia as one said we are doing Windhoek to Windhoek. They were very interested in our tripe.

You could see a little camp fire at each camp site and soon the aroma of “braaivleis” was hanging in the air. Elisme made “PAP” and a brown sauce like Ouma Joe always did. Hans did the “Boerewors “he bought at Gerrits butchery. I must say Gerrit knows what he is doing, his “Boerewors” we can really recommend.

Max who is looking after this camp said the night will cool off, that was true. Soon our duvet was very handy to snuggle up. The frogs had a choir competition tonight; the winner was the one who could make the biggest QUAAAAAAAAAK. Elisme didn’t mind with the murmur of the waterfall in the back ground it was perfect for a nice rest in the wild.

Camp at Ongongo

Ongongo Waterfall and Pool

 Monday morning the camp was quiet long after sunrise. Then everybody was having coffee and some their breakfasts. Soon everybody headed for the pool, the temperature was hitting for the 35 degrees.

Hans and Elisme had a very relaxed day, catching up with their emails on word and doing the block. The Coffee table book was still a lot to do.

Supper was German Pea Soup and fresh baked bread with marrow bones, for Hans. Willem,” Hans had his own COLESTROL DAY” . We had a most enjoyable day, swimming when it was hot just reading and talking. .

Next time Palmwag and future along the River.

Jenny, Michel and Marian in the swimming pool at the Italian Lodge

24-10-2011 Hans and Elisme Epupa falls

Monday morning, 24-10-2011 

Hans and Elisme on tour in Namibia for one month.

The 6 partners said goodbye after five whole months together.  Stephanus and Mariana left for Villiersdorp in the Cape Provence.  Coen and Shanhaz left for Pretoria.

Hans and Elisme always wanted to do a throw tour through Namibia; now is their chance. The children are coming for their December holidays to join them in the Northern Cape and then have Christmas in Swakopmund.

Hans took the Land Rover for a service. He had to go to the Dentist again, the same tooth that gave him problems in Libreville, broke again. Elisme sat in the internet Cafe doing emails and blog.

Hans was finished at 13h00, he joined Elisme at the Dros where they shared a pasta. Then they had to fill the gas bottle, get some “boerewors” and a couple of beers for Hans.

They took the road to the Etosha Game Park.  Hans phoned Stasheimer for a camping place under the trees. They had one and booked it for him. They wanted to stay there for the night and go into the park early as day visitors.

Arriving there, they camped next to guests from Switzerland. They are touring Namibia with a rented vehicle and a roof top tent.

One after the other the rented vehicles came in, all of them foreigners and mostly from Germany. This is a very popular camping spot. They serve Dinner and 38 of the guests join the owner for Dinner. The Ablution and scullery facilities are spotless and very pleasant to use. I must say after the facilities we had in Africa, this was 5 stars. I can see why this is so popular with overseas guests. They don’t come cheap, but you pay for what you get.

Early Tuesday morning everybody in the camp was up long before sunrise. They were all on their way to the Etosha Game Park. We arrived at the gate, registered and then they told us to go to Namatoni gate for the rest of the formalities.

The Park had a huge felt fire in September where 300 000ha burnt, and so many animals killed in this fire.  Five black Rhino’s were burnt too. This is really a big tragedy.

Etosha  close to Namatoni Camp

We soon saw most of the antelope at a waterhole; this was a very pleasant view. All the animals came to drink, Giraffes, Kudu, Gems buck, Springbok, Impala, Zebra and then the Silver back Jackals.

We sat there and had our breakfast while watching the game coming and going. It really looked as if they were taking turns to come and have water; when the one group left the next came.

The Elephants here are white, but that is the colour of the lake’s sand. We saw a few groups of elephants. On our way out to the Andoni gate Hans spotted a Lion. We watched it through our binoculars and just as Hans reached for the camera it disappeared, behind the wall of the lake.

We can really recommend the Etosha to people. If you haven’t been there it is a must.

Tuesday night we slept at Ondangwa Camp Site. New owners took over and they really tried to keep their guests happy. They have many plans for the site. The Restaurant and bar serves good food. Hans was so impressed with their Draft Beer; the glass came out of the deep freeze and was frozen. He says this is the best Beer he had in 5 months and will definitely go back for a beer there.

We met J P and Celia.  JP is doing the tourism Map for Namibia and Celia is helping him. “TRAVEL MAPS NAMIBIA”

Entrance of Kunene River camp

Wednesday we left for the Kunene River Lodge. It is a tar road for the first part and then it becomes a dirt road. This road is well maintained and not to difficult to drive. Hans showed Elisme the previous road, which he had to travel, when they were here on the border. He had to visit his Peloton at Swartboosdrif and Epupa.

 This took him a full day to get here and another day to go back.

We met a HIMBA GIRL; we asked if we can take a photo of her. She agreed for R5 and then when we were done, she asked another R5. We paid that with pleasure, she is beautiful. They have their own culture and this makes them unusual. The men and girls do not where tops; they do a body paint mixture of mud and ox blood.

After paying R20 she let us take a picture

We drove close to the Kunene River that is flowing strong. Hans spotted a crocodile on the banks. We stopped for coffee while watching the bird life.

 As we drove on Hans saw a “THOUGHT ASORUS” when your imagination runs away with you, and you see a rock and think it is a CROCODILE.

The mountains we passed are called the Zebra Mountains, you can see why. They look as if they have stripes like the Zebra. This is bush veld, with Mopani trees and the running water from springs up in the mountain.

Kunene River Lodge has a very well developed camp site. Each camp site is numbered and laid out with rocks. There is a Barbeque place, with a basin and a tap with water. The ablution is spotless. They have a beautiful sparkling blue swimming pool to cool off in. The camping sites all have a view over the River. The Restaurant and bar have a wooden deck on the River. From here you can watch the birds, we saw a Heron on the other side in the reeds.

They saw a unusual bird the Bat Hark, which was really special

Soon our fire was burning high, Celia and JP went on a sunset boat cruise.

As they came back they said the fire looks so beautiful from the river, but more than a bon fire.

We had a chicken dish with pawpaw, for supper.  Amarula coffee ended the meal long after all the flames were red coals.

Amarula Coffee before bedtime at the fire

Camping site at Kunene River Lodge

Our next destination will be Epupa falls at Koos Verwey. They were students at Saldanha Military Academic in 1973. They worked out that they last saw each other 37 years ago. That is a life time. They have so much to catch up. That they do at the fire, drinking a beer and having a sumptuous meal.

Hans turned off to look for a nice Tree to have lunch. He didn’t see the “Sekelbos”. This plant has a stem underneath the ground that cuts a tyre and then pulls out without braking in the tyre.

The Land Rover had its FIRST flat tyre after 29 000 km. Hans was not very pleased, that was an operation to change this tyre. To get the flat tyre back in position at the back was even worse. The lining up of the tyre to the screws was very difficult, Elisme wasn’t of much help.

EPUPA FALLS CAMPING SITE is one of the most beautiful places to be. All the camping sites are on the water.  The spray of the waterfall cools you while you are enjoying the view. Each site has its own wash basin and fire place on the ground. We had our own veranda with deck chairs and a hammock to lay and watch the water falling over the rapids.

Camping site at Epupa wth Koos Verwey

Koos joined us for Supper. Hans made a nice fire and they sat and talked about years ago, back on memory lane. They had lots of fun and the 3 of us shared all their memories.

Elisme prepared a chicken dish with veggies and fresh Pawpaw. The two Boys enjoyed it. Koos said he is a meat man but the Europeans who visits his camp, taught him to start eating veggies. He admits that he actually likes it a lot.

After an Amarula coffee, they all went to bed.

We saw our first Fish eagle in a dry tree across the Falls on the banks. Elisme was asking “why is it not calling” and it was if the eagle heard her. He replied with many calls, so exquisite. What else can he do in this pristine valley?

Hans and Elisme went for a hike to the other side of the waterfall. You climb the mountain for a short distance and then carry on straight.

Boabab? No 

The view is appaling; we thought we saw 3 massive Baobab  trees, just to read in a magazine they’re wild fig trees and “WIT GAT BOOM” - LOOK AT THE PICTURES.

The evening meal was just the 2 of them. Elisme made Peri Peri chicken livers and Potato and Butternut mash. They went to bed and read till late, with only the light of their reading lamps and the only sound was the waterfall. How can you not have a peaceful night’s rest?

Saturday morning they went for a walk to the other side of the Kunene River.  There is a view, more camping sites and a Lodge on this side. Honestly EPUPA RIVER LODGE has the best view and excellent facilities.

Epupa Falls
They spent the day reading and Hans was planning the rest of their trip. Namibia has beautiful places, they want to see everything.
Koos invited them to watch rugby with him; the Curry Cup final is played in South Africa. The Sharks against the Lions, after that we’ll have a barbeque with T-Bones and Chips on the deck.

I am not a LIONS’ supporter but, ‘BOY THEY PLAYED TOGETHER AS A TEAM’. They really taught ME a lesson. Andre Botha’s Mother in Belfast must be ‘OVER THE MOON’ with joy. CONGRATULATIONS!!!

Sunday morning Hans and Elisme asked to attend the Church service with the local community. They are HIMBAS. Samuel came to fetch them at 10 o’clock. This was one of the ‘MOST SPECIAL MOMENTS”! They welcomed us and Samuel was translating for us. His scripture reading was from GENISES. He told everybody, that what we have on this earth was given by GOD. He is the only GOD, we can serve. The Pasteur said that many guests come to stay at Epupa falls camp, but we’re the first to attend their service. They were all thanking us and we could see how much they appreciated it.

They asked us to be witnesses.  Elisme told them of the Muslim countries they went through and how present GOD had been all the time. There were times that nobody could help then and then the presence of the HOLY SPIRIT just took over and took them safely through. She said they are all BROTHERS and SISTERS and that the only way to go to heaven is by accepting GOD THE SON JESUS AND THE HOLY SPIRIT as your Saviour. Then we will meet up in heaven one day. They must all go out and bring a friend next Sunday. They are Sheppard’s for GOD, to bring SOULS to him.

Hans told them about our fears in Nigeria and the Police officers asking for gifts, while swinging their AK 47 in front of us. How he put his hand on the Police Officers shoulder and told him he brought ‘THE LOVE OF JESUS CHRIST’ and then they dropped the gun and said GO GO.

They sang beautiful songs and praised the Lord with their dances. They all came to greet us and then we left.  In our hearts we will always pray for these Christians

Monday morning 31 October we went for a walk to the highest mountain. The view from their over Epupa falls says everything, peace and tranquillity is what you get here. I can understand why people can come here for 6 months just “FINDING THEIR SOULS’

Elisme relaxing looking at the falls

The ROTEL (that is a hotel on wheels) came in with 21 guests. This is quite a unique concept. They eat, sleep, shower and tour in this vehicle. Two people run the ROTEL, Katrina and the driver. They drive, guide, make food and serve the guests. They must be very good; some of their guest have done 30 trips with them.

Koos adopted to girls, Juanine and Diana. Juanine made us butternut soup, which was so tasty; Elisme gave her 100% for that. She baked small little brown bread and a lovely chicken dish with a Greek salad. Janine is only 20 years old and she can really cook well. She runs the reception and speaks English, Afrikaans and Herero.

Diana is 10 years old she is only starting to learn English. She is beautiful and very intelligent. She helps where she can, always smiling.

Wednesday Hans and Elisme went for a walk in the Valley between two mountains. The vegetation here is very bushy with 7 varieties of Paper trees, we saw 3 Brown, Bronze and white ones. A very brave shrub with exquisite white flowers and a yellow centre, fights for his life in this dry sand. You can’t believe that this shrub can bring forth such a beautiful flower between these rocks.

The Governor of this region has called for a meeting with the Community. All the land here is owned by the Community Trust. Koos and the other Lodge owners must have a lease in place. They pay a 6%head fee for each guest visiting their Lodges. That can only be paid into a Trust Bank account. This is one of the Namibian legislations and is a win-win situation. But as with all communities, there is always somebody who doesn't want to work together. So in this place of peace and tranquillity they have this too.

Koos was the only white man attending the meeting, he was quite frustrated. As was the head of the Police, an Ovambo man, he himself couldn’t understand what they really were saying.

We had a sunset drink on the deck and after a nice Rum and Coke,  Koos could “SMELL THE ROSES’ again of this ‘PARADISE GOD GAVE HIM’

Elisme served a Peri Peri Chicken liver with Pao’s a local girl baked in her clay oven. She bought 2 big Baby Marrows from an old man Gabrial, he is 92 years old and still do a big vegetable garden here in the semi desert. Amazing and he says he has no problems except he can’t hear or see so well anymore. He has a problem with his water pipe after the wind storm of the previous night, a corrugated iron sheet fell on his pipe and cut it in half. She filled the Marrows with savoury mince.  Juanine enjoyed it so much and she even had a second helping.

Friday morning Hans and Elisme went for a walk to the ‘BEACH’ believe it or not. Where the Epupa Falls end there is a real beach, but with a warning on the rocks ‘DONT SWIM AT THE BEACH’ - there are crocodiles sun bathing and swimming in the pool, maybe they are hungry.

Koos celebrates his birthday today, we are all invited for his birthday Party. Elisme dressed up with her Cleopatra head dress and everybody loved it. Juanine dressed up in a beautiful evening dress. They all tried to make Koos feel special. Pam, the manager from the Lodge on the Hill, came with Marie Biscuits for the dogs; they were wagging their tails to say thanks. Koos got his favourite Packet of Cappuccino Coffee. They watch rugby together and then share a Cappuccino. Pam gets it from Windhoek, which makes it really special.

Flora and Elisme

Koos on his birthday with Elisme

Friday morning Koos took a 7km walk up the hills through the valley and then back along the Kunene. Hans and Elisme followed in his footsteps, after watching the Frenchmen, Michel, taking photos from his Hang glider. Amazing what people can put in their Safari vehicles these days. They stay in France and leave their car in Windhoek, then tour Namibia with all their gear. At every camp site Michel goes up with the Hang Glider and takes the most beautiful pictures.

Back at the camp a giant Lizard came to say ‘HELLO’.  Today he was willing to do a photo session. He walked from our camp to Michel’s camp and then slowly moved into the water.

The Fish Eagles were doing their morning greetings just after sunrise. They have a nest and mother and father are taking turns to sit on the nest. Sometimes for short whiles they slip away and go for a nice chat in one of the dry trees on the river bank. Just to return shortly after to do their duty on the nest.

Pam made a remark that the Kunene sounded more vicious late night. Hans took the torch to check, al the rocks,that he had as markers, were under water. The night was quiet and only the rumble of the water was lulling them to sleep.

Hans and Elisme can now move on to the Marien Fluss. Koos will maybe never know what this well deserved REST REALLY MENT TO THEM. This was a true recovery of body and soul.

They will be back next year to help Koos with the training of his staff for the new Lodge. Elisme is still working on Hans for the 10 day walk from Epupa Falls to Marien Fluss.

 Next time meet us in the Marien Flusss