Ghana

30-08-2011 Ghana

Tuesday our border crossing from Burkina Fasi to Ghana at Hamile went without hassles.  Ghana immigration insisted to see the entire passport holder. They had a entre document which we had to fill in, first one, on our trip.

The road conditions were no difference to the previous country Mali.  You could bury Land Rover in the very bad potholes. The vegetation was lushes. The farmer’s agricultural lands were boosting with 2 meter high maize.

Wa our aimed destination was still 100km and it was getting late.   Bush camp seems the only option for us.  The Villages were very close to each other. Hans stopped a guy and asked for the chief. He gave us directions. 

The boys went to ask him if he can give us a place to camp for the night on his land. He could not speak English or French, his son was translating for him. He was very hospitable, even offer us a little community hall to sleep in with water. We preferred to camp at a worked out quarry.

Hans at his dressing table

Hans was really much better. The humidity was very high and he was perspiring, Tabard and Peaceful sleep will not hold. Elisme suggested that he shower to cool off. Just then a woman came to the vehicle. We greeted here but she could not understand English. Hans tried to explain he wants to shower.  She just walked away and started picking a plant that keeps the mosquitos out of the house. Hans gave up and decided to shower in his under pants. She couldn’t believe what she saw. I would like to know, what she was telling her family. “THIS CAR POURS  WATER FROM THE ROOF, WHEN A PERSON STANDS WITH OUT CLOTHS. WHEN HE WALKS AWAY IT STOPS”  Elisme was happy Hans could spray him Tabard and it will last.

Shanhaz and Coen were responsible for Supper. She bought a big Marrow on the road. Cous cous, Sausages with Tomato sauce was very nourishing for body and soul.

Dark clouds and lighting was coming from the North. We all showered and got in our beds, it was nice and cool. Hearing the rain with soft lighting, not like in Belfast where the lighting strike and scares you.  

Wednesday morning we wake up, this time Hans stayed a little longer in bed. He is now really affraid of the morning mosquitos. Stephanus pointed out that there are more mosquitoes before sunrise.

Coen and Shanhaz night rest wasn’t as pleasant as the rest of us. Coen complain of his mattress.

The coffee and biscuits were making up for that.

We stopped to present the Chief with a scarf and bag from SA. His son said he went to hospital but he’ll give it to his father.

Kumatsi was our aim today. First we must get a bank to get money. The currency of Ghana is Gedis.  

The 360 km took us 7 hours, as predicted by a man in Wa. You just can’t move fast on these roads. So despite of our rule of not driving in the dark, we got to Kumatsi in the dark.

The Presbyterian Guest house and camping were our place of rest tonight. The co ordinates set on the GPS that was another story. Like all these Cities the roads are narrow and kinky. The GPP’s took us to a point and then said, “Carry on straight for the next 3, 1 km. The roads split, turns and have circles with many exits???????? Now what is straight? I really think Tracks for Africa can upgrade in these countries. You drive in circles and get to the same point and then leads from there. Why?

Wednesday 31 August is the end of Ramadan. A holiday and the feast of Harvest thanks to the GPS ended up in the festival street. {We found out this is the biggest festival in West Africa, I now understands} I have never seen so many people walking in the street all directions. And here we try to follow the GPS. There were a few cars in front of us, moving like a tortoise. Motor bikes were on their hooters moving and bumping each other. The bands were playing from both sides of the pavement. People walk and dance, Mariana took a pain stiller for a splitting headache. South African will understand what we went through.

The Merry go round of a street

It looked as if the heaven has opened and people were just coming and coming. There was no movement for a car possible; our three cars were court in this merry go round.

The only thing we could do was pray. God never fails you. Elisme looked out of here window, there stood a very nicely dressed man. She opened her window, asked him how we can get out of here. He was not capable of English. Hans called him. He understood what Hans asked. He walked to the front of the Land Rover, said something to the people, and waved Hans to come. He conducted the people the motor Bikes and the one or two cars who were trying to come down the street. I think the Israelites must felt the same when the Red Sea opened.

Elisme was looking in amazement and Hans moved forward as the man cleared  the road just enough space for the Landy.. Stephanus and Coen was following on the Landy’s bumper. Then ice cream cars, he just waved them and they moved away. 

We were at the end of this street and all of a sudden we could move freely. He came to Hans and shakes his hand. Hans tried to thank him and gave him a gift in cash. Then we asked how we can get to the Presbyterian Guest house. Once again he started walking to a Catholic Church. He called a man, this man took us to the Guest house.

Elisme took a picture and here is the poster of Jesus as they see it in Ghana

God is great, he looks after his children. We al just thanked the Lord for saving us.

The rain came pouring down, as we reach the Guest house. Soon we were all sorted for the night. Once again lovely with the rain falling while we sleep. Hans woke up in the night. He had a splitting headache. Elisme immediately felt if he was running a temperature, luckily not.  A head massages always release his headache.  

Thursday everybody was awake and busy with early morning tasks. Coen and Shanhaze are staying behind; he wants to fix his tyre. They want to go diving and just chill at the Ghana Coast.

Stephanus and Hans want to see the country, coast and does the Canopy walk.  So the four of us left for the Cape Coast. Needless to say, a mission. The same story with the GPS, takes you in a circle to the same point. By now us new rather ask local people. They direct you in the right direction.

Two hours later we were on the road new sms cart in the phones, fresh bread and water.

The first 100km was a  tare road in a very good condition. Then started more potholes then road again. The 300km trip took us 6 hours.

We arrived at Elmina beach, Hans was asking a few locals and with not too much trouble we got to co –sa. This tropical Palm tree Guest house and camping site is a beautiful place right on the beach.

Hans and Stephanus inspected the camping site and ablution block, as Mariana said this is the best we have since been in Ghana.

The boys parked the vehicles, pitched up the awnings and soon we were having a sunset drink. Stephanus and Elisme were craving for vegetables. Hans bought some fresh fruit and vegetables at the ladies selling on the road. Doepie will love this; “kaiings” with a healthy vegetable pot and patties was on the menu.

The four of us sat for a long time enjoying the sea breeze and the waves coming down with force on the cliffs. The Atlantic Ocean is cold here and the waves are big.

We will stay here for another day. All of us need to chill. After a tough week a day of rest will be welcome.

Friday morning was time for sorting out getting little things in place. Washing to do. A breakfast was on the veranda of the restaurant, overlooking the sea and palm trees. They prepare everything fresh and it takes time. They present their food with a feast for the eye.

The rest of the day was a lazy relaxing one. Soup was on the menu for lunch that was welcomed by all of us.

Then Hans and Elisme met with their stories books to lie on the sun beds on the beach between the Palms. Mariana went to read on the veranda and Stephanus took his afternoon nap.

Tonight we will have our Supper in the restaurant. They serve fresh Snapper fish with chips and seafood spaghetti.

Saturday morning 3 September we wake up. To find it drizzling softly, that’s why we had such a nice sleep.

Soon we were packed and ready to leave for Green Turtle bay.  The village road Veined through the villages to the main road. The houses were built on the pavement not much space to drive.

The 4 of us having a tea brake at Coconut Golf Estate

Stephanus was saying its look like the Natal Coast road. The vegetation is the same and beautiful. The tar road was good and we moved on. Takoradi a big town we stopped no traffic moved slowly, a robot was keeping the traffic to stop.

From the tar road we turned in to a very small dirt road, that was once again going through the villages. An exstreamly rough road with ditches and potholes.

View from our bedroom at Green Turtle Bay

As we got on top of a hill after 12 km. We got the first sight of Green Turtle. This was really a piece of heaven. Palm trees, bungalows with African art and a restaurant right on the beach. Guest was sitting and playing games and other were just relaxing with a book in the sun.

The Showers were nice big ones with only cold water. The cold water didn’t bother us up to now, it was so warm. The temperature down the coast is slitly lower. The toilets are organic toilets, that are not our choice, but I must say spotless clean. A wash basin just outside the toilets, with lemon soap, makes up for the organic.

Washing must get dry

A place was shown to us to camp. Your vehicles were parked under the Palm trees on the sand bank; the sea was just 10 meter below us. Here one can camp for a month.

Grayfish was sold to us still alive. Johan this you would have liked. Even better as Paternoster. 120 Gedis (R60) a kilo. They have no scale so a kilo is 6 big crayfishes.

We had a nice vegetable soup Saturday evening. All of us are graving for fresh vegetables. Strange how tired you get of tin food and bread.

Hans needs a hair cut.

Sunday morning it was time for Hans for a haircut. Elisme claims she is now a qualified hairdresser. His pony tail is coming on, but the sides and the top hair we keep short. He looks really sexy.

The Inheritance eaters (Elfgeldvreters) went for a long walk on the beach to the village. Walking in the waves was nice, the water isn’t so cold today.

Lunch on the beach Green Turtle bay

So if you have to wash pots, sea sand helps.

Mariana prepared a nice pasta for us, with Ham, bringals, green peppers, tomatos and onions. We had a lovely lunch under the Palm trees on the beach.

Tonight we are going out for Dinner at the Restuarant. They serve fresh fish and Chips, by now our favourite dish when going out for Dinner.We left for Accra early Monday morning. The Land Rover needs a service and new diesel and oil filters. After 12 000 km I think she deserves a bit of tender loving care. Hans has an appointment with Mr. Opel; he is the recommended Land Rover agent in Accra.

The road back was a good tar road lot of little towns passing. Ghana has toll gates and every toll is 1 Gh {R5}. This time the GPS was doing better, just 2 slip ups.

We arrive in Accra; there is no camping place in Accra. So Mr. Opel recommended a hotel close to his Garage. Elisme phoned Oak Place Hotel. There tariffs was far more than they could afford. She read in a guide that you must bargain for hotel prices. So being a marketer, this in her blood. She got 40$ discount, that was expectable for the 4 of them.

5 September was Stephanus birthday. The 4 of them celebrated it with a nice candle light Dinner and a bottle of Red Wine from Chilli.

Skype was on the list again. Matthys and Ingrid were ready to talk to Ouma and Oupa. They could hear us but we couldn’t hear them. Mummy Carlien was the saver, she started writing questions and Ouma answered. The kids were nodding and waving little hands. This was a good heart medicine for ouma Elisme. Thanks to Louis and Carlien

Tuesday Hans left to take the Landy. Stephanus, Mariana and Elisme got a Taxi to go to Shoprite. This was a new experience a real shop, with South African stuff. The best was the meat. The boys cant get it right to buy from the local butchers on the street. There for meat for a braai is a novelty.

Hans was checking everything that they were doing to the Land Rover. After a arm and a leg the Land Rover was ready for the next leg of the Safari.

Tomorrow we leave for the Volta Lake, the biggest human made lake in the world.

Border crossing to Togo