Gabon- Libreville_Jimmy

Blog 26-09-2011 Gabon- Libreville –Jimmy

Stefanus and Jimmy in front of his apartment 

hans made contact with jimmy on email long before we reached Libreville.  He spelt out all our needs: Dentist, Doctor, Cars repairs, South African Embassy, the Angola and Brazzaville Congo as well as Congo Embassy. One thing all of us agree to is that Hans is really a organizer. He uses all his expertise to make contact with people before we enter. He will never place the lives of his Safari members at risk. He knows about the security conditions, he gets people to assist us and make it easier. I must stress it once again, Africa is a tough country. Soon you will run in big problems if you do not have a clued-up leader. Many groups who tried to do this trip had to wait weeks for visas.  Some even had to fly back to South Africa to get them.  Hans we can really recommend you as a leader. 

Jimmy’s apartment was like a safe haven for us. We all were really appreciating the normal things in a house. If you live with your whole house, kitchen, bedroom, lounge, bathroom in the space of one vehicle, then you realise how privileged we are with a normal home.   Now you realise how easy this equipment make our lives; washing machine, tumble dryers, and a shower with hot water coming out of a tap.

We all had a major cleaning up. The linen needed a serious washing. Our clothes were hand washed all the time and not getting really dry because of the extremely high humidity. So this was so nice, to smell the cleanest of stay-soft and dry washing.

The flat screen TV with DSTV was a real treat for the boys. They were catching up with the rugby.  The world cup was may be half way and they haven’t seen one match. So they were stagnant in front of the flat screen.  They deserve to relax, after the hard driving.

Meanwhile Jimmy was organizing all the appointment. He even made time to take Hans to the garage. He took Elisme to the office to work on her emails.

Monday evening Jimmy did a fillet steak braai, what a treat for us. He invited Willem and marjolein, they are from Holland and work here in the French army. Willem is the Dutch representative. Coen and Shanhaz are  sleeping at their place.

Tuesday morning 27 September started with all the parties getting ready to do all the damage control. Hans was trying to sort out our medical insurance to pay for the Dentist, but as with all insurance it was not so easy. Hans must pay, get all the proof and then when we are back in South Africa he can claim. I wonder what  the use of insurance is. You must always first pay then they will consider. What does people do that thinks the insurance will help.

Willem the Dutch Officer helping the boys

The South African Embassy was on the list too. They need a letter of introduction to Brazzaville and Congo. The Exit date on the Anglo Visas is wrong. They need to change it. There for they will need a motivation.

Today was Shanhaz’ birthday. We planned to do a paella, this will be an all-nation Paella. Cray fish from  Ghana {green turtle bay}  in Benin at grand popo the prawns. In Accra we bought sole and sea food mix with calamari.  Jimmy contributed some more prawns from Libreville. The rice is coming from Songhai village in  benin. The spices are coming still from morocco. Now if this is not a multi nations  paella, then please tell me what is?

Mariana was doing a beautiful table setting. Elisme was doing the Paella. The pudding was really making a wow entrance. It consisted of ice cream, lemon meringue, Swiss chocolate sauce and chocolate fingers. What do you ask: the cfa or the calories?  

Wednesday morning early Hans had to get up. He must take the Land Rover to the Garage. Here it is not a problem to wake up. In the middle of Libreville we have a cock crowing when we go to bed and starting long before day break. Then we have 2 trees outside the bathroom window,. Every branch of the trees has 3 weaver nests, I don’t know how many weavers but they sound like the drakensberg boys choir.

Marjolein took Mariana and shanhaz on a shopping outing. Mariana said this was really an experience. Marjolein knows exactly what to buy where. She looks for the best quality at each shop. Therefore she goes to different shops: fish and vegetables at the one, wine and cheese at the next, but it takes you a morning to do your shopping, driving to all the shops. Mariana says the layout of these shops is like Woolworths in SA. The only thing is; everything is imported and very expensive. She says it was really very unexpected to have such upper class shops in these neighbourhoods. You can get anything here in Libreville at a price. A brown bread cost 2000CFA [R32} Put that in your pocket and smoke it. May be we must start appreciating South Africa for what we have.

The girls really appreciated Marjolein’s time and advice. They will have nice shopping memories of Libreville.

Elisme was resizing photos and enjoying the soft rain. This is so special for her; it rains constantly, but no thunder just soft rain.
the rest of Gabon soon.

25-09-2011 Gabon -Ambam -Bitam-Ndjole-Libreville

Last evening in Cameroon hotel Ndjole 

25-09-2011 Gabon- Ambam border – Ndjole – Libreville

Bitam at the border of Gabon

Sunday morning we left early to get to the border. Ambam we exit cameroon we entered gabon at bitam. The border crossing on both sides was easy, no difficult Officers. Immigration just wanted photo copies of our Passports and of the Exit stamp of Cameroon. Their photo copier was not working, so we had to go across the street to a shop to do it.

The Rain Forest

Soon we were on the road to Mitsic. Coen asked for a 11 stop for tea. This is now a saying elevens for tea. We bought eggs at the market in Kribi, boiled eggs were one of the items on the open sandwiches today.

Elisme and Stephanus remarked that this country is more developed than the previous countries. The roads are in an excellent condition. They are maintaining the roads. The villages are clean no debris lying around. The houses are neat and of a western building style. They are painted. The cars are new model cars and washed.

The families build their houses in groups. In the court yard right in the middle, they have the tomb stones of their beloved once. They all have beautiful wraths on. You can see they honour their ancestors

We drove through rain forest all the way. The ferns are so luscious. The trees are huge and very old. The climbers are flourishing around the trees. I have never seen such thick bamboo bushes; they are hanging over the road. Stephanus remarked that he saw Guavas for the first time on the trees we haven’t seen any guavas up to now..I am sure the fairies are staying here. This is Very difficult to get on camera. The rain is falling softly. The road follows a river, which is in flood, with snow white rapids..

Rain forest

River in forest

We drove through rain forest all the way. The ferns are so luscious. The trees are huge and very old. The climbers are flourishing around the trees. I have never seen such thick bamboo bushes; they are hanging over the road. Stephanus remarked that he saw Guavas for the first time on the trees we haven’t seen any guavas up to now..I am sure the fairies are staying here. This is Very difficult to get on camera. The rain is falling softly. The road follows a river, which is in flood, with snow white rapids..

They have rubber plantations here. You can see they are looked after. They keep them clean between the trees. There little black bowls to catch the oil, al in straight line.

We arrived at  ndjone our first hotels location was excellent overlooking the river. The manager was asleep and the barman couldn’t give us permission to sleep in our vehicles and rent one room.

what a view, but no Manager to help us at the hotel

Hans asked Coen and Shanhaze to go and look for the other hotel. They radio and said we must come they got another hotel.

Supper at Mamma's D and J hotel

This is how we got to mamma and the red and beige hotel. The hotel was right opposite a night club. Sunday evening is their favourite evening to party, and boy did the Cambodians party. One thing you get use to all circumstances.

Mamma’s chef was away and there for we could make our owe food right in front of the hotel. Mamma was watching us from her chair parked in front of the reception. She was very interested in what these mzungus were doing.

Elisme was responsible for Supper to night. She made stewing beef and risotto rice. Mamma got her bowl of food. That brought us a lot of gratitude. When some more guests game in, she told them not to park near us and they must be quiet.  We are sleeping in our vehicles,

Monday morning our morning coffee was exceptional nice. We had it with our now favourite biscuits spitze. Hans did our moment of silent’s this morning. His message was we must lead by example, even when we are far from home. That makes you think of your behaviour.

Diesel was very cheap here 1liter is costing 470 CFA that is about R7. We used what was left of our CFA to fill up the tanks.. Hans got us 3 French loaf and with that we were on our way to Libreville. That is the Capital of Gabon.

jimmy will be our guardian Angel his mariana’s cousin. The boys need to do a lot in Libreville. It is time to get Visas for Gongo DRC and Brazzaville Gongo and starting with Anglo.

The vehicles need so service again. The roads are still taking it toll on the vehicles. Lights need attention and tyre changes. There is still some sand in the tyres.

Hans needs to go to a Dentist and Shanhaz must see a doctor. Her rush just doesn’t get better. Coen need to get new spectacles, his took a punch to.

We continue to drive through the rain forest the beauty of it is so peacefull on the soul. Words fell short to describe this, what the eye sees.

After 3 hours drive in Gabon we rich the equator leaving the southern hemisphere .  We stopped for tea to celebrate. No as Stephanus said we go downhill. South Africa is getting closer.

Jimmy phoned and said he is waiting for us. He gave us leads what we will see as we enter Libreville. The people of Gabon is really working and trying to develop their land. They work on the roads, they keep their environment clean.

We follow Jimmy to his apartment. His hospitality was over whelming. Once in a house again we realise how special it is to have a washing machine, tumble dryer, micro and a hot water shower with running water. One thing this trip really teaches us is to appreciate the small things in life.

Next time Libreville.

Sunday morning we left early to get to the border. Ambam we exit cameroon we entered gabon at bitam. The border crossing on both sides was easy, no difficult Officers. Immigration just wanted photo copies of our Passports and of the Exit stamp of Cameroon. Their photo copier was not working, so we had to go across the street to a shop to do it.

Soon we were on the road to Mitsic. Coen asked for a 11 stop for tea. This is now a saying elevens for tea. We bought eggs at the market in Kribi, boiled eggs were one of the items on the open sandwiches today.

Elisme and Stephanus remarked that this country is more developed than the previous countries. The roads are in an excellent condition. They are maintaining the roads. The villages are clean no debris lying around. The houses are neat and of a western building style. They are painted. The cars are new model cars and washed.

The families build their houses in groups. In the court yard right in the middle, they have the tomb stones of their beloved once. They all have beautiful wraths on. You can see they honour their ancestors

We drove through rain forest all the way. The ferns are so luscious. The trees are huge and very old. The climbers are flourishing around the trees. I have never seen such thick bamboo bushes; they are hanging over the road. Stephanus remarked that he saw Guavas for the first time on the trees we haven’t seen any guavas up to now..I am sure the fairies are staying here. This is Very difficult to get on camera. The rain is falling softly. The road follows a river, which is in flood, with snow white rapids..

They have rubber plantations here. You can see they are looked after. They keep them clean between the trees. There little black bowls to catch the oil, al in straight line.

We arrived at  ndjone our first hotels location was excellent overlooking the river. The manager was asleep and the barman couldn’t give us permission to sleep in our vehicles and rent one room.

Hans asked Coen and Shanhaze to go and look for the other hotel. They radio and said we must come they got another hotel.

This is how we got to mamma and the red and beige hotel. The hotel was right opposite a night club. Sunday evening is their favourite evening to party, and boy did the Cambodians party. One thing you get use to any circumstances.

Mamma’s chef was away and there for we could make our owe food right in front of the hotel. Mamma was watching us from her chair parked in front of the reception. She was very interested in what these mzungus were doing.

Elisme was responsible for Supper to night. She made stewing beef and risotto rice. Mamma got her bowl of food. That brought us a lot of gratitude. When some more guests game in, she told them not to park near us and they must be quiet.  We are sleeping in our vehicles,

Monday morning our morning coffee was exceptional nice. We had it with our now favourite biscuits spitze. Hans did our moment of silent’s this morning. His message was we must lead by example, even when we are far from home. That makes you think of your behaviour.

Diesel was very cheap here 1liter is costing 470 CFA that is about R7. We used what was left of our CFA to fill up the tanks.. Hans got us 3 French loaf and with that we were on our way to Libreville. That is the Capital of Gabon.

jimmy will be our guardian Angel his mariana’s cousin. The boys need to do a lot in Libreville. It is time to get Visas for Gongo DRC and Brazzaville Gongo and starting with Anglo.

The vehicles need so service again. The roads are still taking it toll on the vehicles. Lights need attention and tyre changes. There is still some sand in the tyres.

Hans needs to go to a Dentist and Shanhaz must see a doctor. Her rush just doesn’t get better. Coen need to get new spectacles, his took a punch to.

We continue to drive through the rain forest the beauty of it is so peacefull on the soul. Words fell short to describe this, what the eye sees.

Half way to South Africa

After 3 hours drive in Gabon we rich the equator leaving the southern hemisphere .  We stopped for tea to celebrate. No as Stephanus said we go downhill. South Africa is getting closer.

The size of the trees they chop

Al towns have circles.

Jimmy phoned and said he is waiting for us. He gave us leads what we will see as we enter Libreville. The people of Gabon is really working and trying to develop their land. They work on the roads, they keep their environment clean.

We follow Jimmy to his apartment. His hospitality was over whelming. Once in a house again we realise how special it is to have a washing machine, tumble dryer, micro and a hot water shower with running water. One thing this trip really teaches us is to appreciate the small things in life.

Next time Libreville.

19-09-2011 CAMEROON Bamenda -Father Arnold -Limbe - Kribi

19-09-2011 bamenda father Arnold – limbe –kribi –

Father Arnold with the Green shirt. Everybody at his table

Father Arnold was treating us as if we were at our own home. He called for meals and then says the prayers before the meal.

Mill Hill our Safe haven.

He was serving us and offered everybody something to drink. The table wine was a good wine of French origin. The cheese was from Holland. Father Arnold himself is of Dutch origin.

Land Rovers Brake Drum

The boys were busy on the cars. Hans did the Land Rovers brakes. The brake pads on the left side, where the Landy was laying in the ditch were worn down to the metal. The sand went in to the brake pads and sand blasted it all away. You could not believe that the sand can take away half inch of iron. They replaced the new shoes on both the rear wheels. The brake drum has got some damage but they think it will make it to South Africa.

How does this look for a Garage

Coen’s Land Cruiser had the same problem as the Land Rover. The sand got in to his brake drums, when he was stuck a couple of times in the mud.

With bridges like this; Do you still wonder why Stephanus struggle with flat tyres.

Stephanus had some bad luck on his tyre. A stump  pushed in between the tyre and the rim. They forced it out with a tool. Then Stephanus went to check it at a garage. Flat tyres are pestering Stephanus on this trip. This is his fourth one now.

Monday the Girls offered to make Supper. The Father was so grateful, getting something different to what the Chefs prepare. They are doing excellent food, but you get tired of {hotel} food. We made Jaffles and Cinnamon dumplings for pudding. Everybody was tantalized with it. We showed the Chefs how to prepare the mince and how to fry the Jaffles. Father Arnold said he will ask them on Sunday to make him some. Just to make sure they do not forget how to make it.

Tuesday we left after breakfast. Father Arnold waved us goodbye and promised to come and visit us in South Africa.

Limbe was our next destination. The road was a tarred one in a good condition. We went at a 100km an hour. That was a terrifying speed for us after our average of 20km an hour. There were road blocks as we go. Some was very nice and just greeted us and then waved us on.

Then there was the one who was sitting under the tree and instructing the juniors to stop us. We were prepared for this. They ask for our papers (that was our Carnet de passage) then the highest rank officer comes with this. “ by Cameroon law, you’re not allowed to drive a right hand steering car in Cameroon” on our document where we have entered, it is written we have a right hand steering car. Hans explain we are in transit. They actually want a bribe. Hans refuseed and then they let us go. This happened a few times.

The Cameroon people are not smiling people. They are very reserved. When buying something at their stalls, they help their people first and ignore you. They ask on the beach if they can show you their goods. They are not cross if you don’t want to buy anything.

Pawpaw trees

Motor bikes are still the main transport in the towns. They are fearless; they just drive where they want.

What a view

This is a very good agricultural area. We see Pawpaw, bananas and Pineapple lands. The banana bunches are covered like in South Africa with blue plastic bags. The fruit is very tasty and sweet.

Banana's in their blue plastic bags

We saw Rubber tree plantations for kilometres. There are little bowls hanging on the tree to drain the rubber.

Camping on the grounds of Miramare hotel

Limbe is a big town. This time the GPS coordinates took us straight to the miramare hotel. This was a stunning view from the hotels grounds. We were once again right on the sea. They allow you to camp on their grounds, you must just pay camping and a room to shower and use the toilet.

What a view from our Landy's bedroom

Look our Sunset

We camped right next to the swimming pool and had the Lapa for ourselves to make food and relax. Mariana made us a chicken and pasta dish and Elisme did pineapple slices for pudding. Soon it was raining. We get used to the rain, it is soft and seldom goes with lighting and thunder.

A town close to Limbe has the second highest rainfall in the world. So what can you except, rain and more rain.

with the rain the Taxi Bicycles made their own Canopies

River in botanical Gardens

Hans and Stephanus went with Thomas to Mount Cameroon. This is the most active volcano in Africa. The locals have a lot of believers of this mountain. The last time it erupted was in 1990. The lava stopped just a couple of meters from the sea. That prevented a major nature disaster. The botanical gardens has a river flowing through it, with rapids every ten meter. The sound of the water is like little bells in the church. The natural growth of the plants makes you think this must be the paradise.  I wonder if the people of Cameroon realise how privileged they are to live in this country.

Thursday we left for kribi. This is a little beach village. The only place in west africa  where a  river ends in a waterfall in the sea.  

Doouala  is a Port and the Economical Capital city. Yaounde is the Capital of Cameroon.

Hilarius met us just before Douala and took us through Douala on the road to Kribi. Just before Kribi Dennis met us and took us to our augerge paga. This was another little Paradise. A quaint little bar with hammocks to lie and relax. We camped right on the beach under the palm trees. Coen and Shanhaz took a cabin. We had one of the cabins for shower and toilettes. They had a veranda where Shanhaz prepared our Supper. She served us Meatballs with a spicy tomato sauce and couscous with palm oil. Pears were our pudding.  The rain was coming down in buckets. Mariana is very relieved; the leak stopped in their canopy. She was really having a hard time, with all the rain. They just couldn’t get the place where the water was coming from.

Its not only the Cars that need "FIXING" even Elisme must do some sewing on the sheets. the kids wont believe this.

Dennis met us Friday morning and took us to the waterfall and to town to get the necessities. Stephanus needs a Garage to fix his tyre once again.

Beach Restuarant Shanhaz, Coen and Hans watching the chef preparing the Fish 

Coconut milk served chilled on the beach.

Coen, Shanhaz, Hans and Elisme went for lunch. Right on the beach between the trees was this little restaurant. One of the locals, a real enterpreneur, did his layout. Tables, flower baskets hanging, a place for a bonfire. His kitchen concistes out of 2 fires. One for the wok to fry bread fruit chips. It was the first time Hans and Elisme ate that, it was delicious. They fried small barracuda and crushed fresh habanero chillies with their secret oil. We were watching how they were preparing everything. No cutlery, you eat with your fingers and just a plate for the bones. Then they bring a bucket with water to wash your hands. We all agree what Shanhaz was saying, we can eat like this every day.

Stephanus, Mariana, Hans and Elisme went for a long walk on the beach. They were looking for a loaf of bread. The Boys have a rib eye steak in the fridge to barbeque. We want to make “braai broodjies”.

Along the beach there are hotels, houses and boat clubs but not one operating anymore. Hans was remarking just how beautiful this place must have been decades ago. From the beach we could see all the oil drills and boats floating in the sea.

We could not find any loaf of bread. Back at the bar Mariana suggest we ask the Chef. He was a pigmy. He could speak English, he said we could have a loaf for 200CFA. We got another French bread. So we had no choice tonight the ‘braai broodjies” will be made from  French loaf. we all agreed it was very nice, we’ll do it again. So you’re never too old to try something different on an old recipe. Pawpaw was our pudding.

Difficult to show how beautiful Cameroon is

We went off to bed to do a little reading. Soon the humidity was so high again, the fans were going. Then came the rain pouring again. We don’t mind the rain as then it is cool.

This time the car is used to transport Banana's

Saturday morning we left with our friend Dennis leading the way through the road blocks. He gave us to another friend who took us further. This time the road blocks was no problem. This was Pigmy country. They flee from Dogon country and start living here in the forests. We saw their houses in the rocks when we were in Mali’s Dogon country
Next time Gabon