Sossusvlei to Spogplasie and with this we end OUR AFRICAN DREAM

Blog Sossusvlei – Luderitz

Wednesday morning we left Hendriette at die PAPPOT. Hans ordered fresh bread from her.  The smell of her bakery was just too tempting; you must have some of whatever it is that she is baking.  The bread was not ready when we wanted to leave so she gave us 2 packets of Brotchens. Just when we walked out the girl in the bakery came passed with “MINCE VETKOEK’. Hans couldn’t leave without, so Hendriette gave him too. She has a heart of gold. If ever you are passing Maltehohe, stop at the PAPPOT or camp there - they will spoil you rotten.

Hans and Hendriette in her shop
We arrived at Sossusvlei, checked in and there we bumped into Renate; she invited us to share stand 27 with them. That was really a pleasant surprise.  One thing we really can say is that the People from Switzerland that we met on this trip are really very nice and very interesting. Their knowledge on Safari equipment and photography is just amazing. We learned so much from them. They love the WIDE OPEN FIELDS OF AFRICA, with nothing but nature and GOD around them. They appreciate every SUNRISE 
.

We got a big tree for their vehicle and our Land Rover; I must say the Landy looks like a Dinky toy against their Mobile home. They are so well-equipped, everything that is in a normal house they got in this vehicle. They even have a washing machine, air-con working on water, electric stove and oven and full bathroom.  This is really a little Palace on wheels. They are now travelling for 12 years, 5 years of which, were spent in South America. What a life.

Bruno and renate's BIG DADDY vehicle and Mkulu

The swimming pool at the camp site was so inviting we just had to jump in. I have no idea what the temperature was but it was heaven in the pool. Lunch was Brocthen with tomatoes and ham pâté; Renate came up with some delicious Goulash.  Rooibos tea is now standard in this heat, thanks to Morocco and Fatima who taught us to drink tea in a small glass. I think it cools us down.

The Red Namib dunes were calling and we left at 16h30 to see the sunset. We entered the Park gate and had to travel 65km on a tar road to Dune 45; from there another 5 km only for 4x4. I must say that’s heavy thick sand.  Bruno and Renate were not allowed to go with their vehicle the last 5 km, so we unpacked the Land Rover. Poor Bruno had to sit right at the back of the Landy, in what Elisme calls her Dressing Room. I am sure he had a rough ride, but didn’t complain. Hans was complimented by Renate on what a good driver he is in the difficult obstacle. I must say he really managed them excellently.

The 4x4 road in Sossusvlei

Sossusvlei, as the name says, still has water at the vlei; must be of the rains they had in March in the whole of Namibia. This big lake of water surrounded by Red Dunes is unimaginable and amazing. The shadows that forms on these Dunes make a different picture every where you look. As we returned Hans spotted an African Wild Cat, Renate and I we were fascinated by it. He just carried on walking on the Red Dune and little shrubs as if we were not even there.

We had an early evening with Pasta and a platter of cheese and cold meats, which always goes down well with a bottle of good wine; NEDERBERG SHIRAZ. Hans and Elisme went for a shower that was so pleasant, spotlessly clean ablution with hot water. Then Hans sets his alarm for 4 o’clock, to see the Sun Rise we must leave when the gate opens at 5 o’clock.

One thing Hans and elisme never miss is their coffee, so Hans always spoils Elisme with coffee in bed. This morning was no different, and then they got up and closed the Land Rovers roof. We were not the first car to leave and behind us it looked like Johannesburg Commissioner Street.

Everyone was excited to see the Sun Rise from Dune 45 on this Thursday morning the 1 December 2011. We joined the long queue to conquer Dune 45, 100 meter from the top Hans decided he had enough. It was very tricky to try and sit down and not slide down to the bottom. The queue of Sun Rise viewers were struggling past us to get to the top. We patiently waited for the moment. Our cameras all set and ready for action. The view was miraculous, with shades of gold, violet and deep purple on the red dunes. Renate heard an American saying to his partner; this is even more spectacular than I could ever have imagined, better than my wildest dreams. I think that describes it all.

Sunrise on Dune 45 Sossusvlei

Hans and Elisme left. It was 1,1km to walk from where the vehicles were parked.  They wanted to see the DEATH VALLEY before the sun was to High in the sky.  This time it was a more comfortable walk, the Dunes were climbing gradually. You climb up the last Dune and then this spectacular view meets your eyes. Dead trees standing in this white soil, the clear is blinding your eyes, and this valley is surrounded by red Dunes, protecting the Death Valley by its arms. What amazed us were the dead trees, and they don’t get rotten - must be “HARDEKOOL TREES”?

Sunset at Sossusvlei

We moved on to see the morning sun on the “VLEI’. There were lots of cars with tourists, on all the Dunes were people walking. There was a group of elderly tourists; they attempted to climb this Dune in the heat of the day. This was a killing effort to our minds. They didn’t climb straight they went zigzag and stopped every 100 m, but they continued to climb. Four of them reached the top two turned around, but they all came down safely. Just shows you, never judge a book by its cover.

The Sossusvlei Canyon was next on our list; this was another surprise for us. The canyon at the one end still has water, with lots of weavers flying in and out to get water. The rocks formed a maze of little caves and in one of the holes we found a heap of branches. We couldn’t figure out how those branches got there. Hans’s explanation was that there must be a tunnel with a stream coming down when it rains that starts somewhere on the outside. Who will know?

Sossusvlei Canyon

Back at the camp we packed. They wouldn’t allow us to only pay for camping; we had to pay for park fees too - although we were going to leave the next day at 7 o’clock and will not enter the Park again. We went for a swim and then looked at Renate’s photos. She is an excellent photographer with lots of experience. After a Rooibos tea and Hendriette’s rusks, it was time to say goodbye. We were going South and then north, but with a promise to meet us at the Moon landscape after Christmas.

Michel told us of a very nice camping place in the Red Dunes not far from Ais – GUNSBEWYS. We headed on towards it. The terrain changed once again. The Dunes and Mountains were knit one slip one, but it was fascinating. The colours were a display of reds, deep purple, sand colour and then al the shades of dark brown to black.

The gate and the sign post at Gunsbewys was an old cattle farm gate, with all the squeaks, falling in the sand and needing a good push the last 2 steps. The road was so straight from the gate to the farm house it could have been done by a dumpy level. The Sunset photos we took from the wooden deck were of this road leading to the blue purple mountains.

Gurtruda, the owner of the farm, wasn’t home; her assistant, Clifford, was very professional and helped us to get our camp site ready. The neighbour shot an Oryx that morning and we were lucky enough to buy the fillet and some chin bones for a nice bean soup.

Each camp site had his own cold water shower and an organic toilet with a paved area, slate table and a barbeque nicely sunken away so that the flames don’t jump out and light the field.

Calamari with couscous was on Hans’s wish list in this Namib Desert. Our candles were burning while a Juvenal Gosh hawk was sitting on a pool a few steps away from us. He was crying his heart out for his ‘CRUEL MOTHER’ who has left him because he is now big enough to look after himself. It was very clear he didn’t feel the same way!

Juvenal Gosh Hawk, crying for her mother

We had a view over the waterhole where all the animals came to drink.  Soon we had another mother coming with her chicks. She was very protective and watching them all proceeding to the water. She was not very comfortable with us looking from the tree behind the fence. She made very sure we are not moving then she chased the little ones to the water.

The next morning after our usual routine and a very nice hot water shower we went to see the photos of the late owner. He was a teacher and a Doctor who loved the RED DUNES and GUNSBEWYS. He wrote many books on different topics. He took photos with a 16mm camera. When a film producer saw that, he changed his career   and became a producer of film. We were hooked on all the books and pictures, which took us back to another decade. This is the story of people in Namibia 100 years ago. This was when it was still unspoilt. We realised how hard it was in this country, but they loved it here and made it their home.

We stopped at Ais to get some diesel; next to the Garage was a small little Tea Garden. They served homemade Pies and toasted cheese and ham sandwiches. Hans had a Beer which went down as cool as can be in this heat.

We read about the wild horses on our way to Luderitz, so we were on the lookout. As always Hans spotted them. We wanted to take a picture but it was very far, then we saw them turning off to the view point where they drink water.

Brave flower on the Dunes in the Desert

There was a well built hide with clean tables and benches where you can sit and watch the wild Horses, Ostrich, Springbuck and Oryx. We were so lucky they were all there when we came.

The sign posts were warning, to be cautious of the wind along the road, while we experienced the beat of the sand on the Land Rover. The wind was getting fierce as we got closer to Luderitz. The poor Landy was getting sandblasted and Hans had to hang on to the wheel as the wind was extremely strong, may be Gail force winds. This was really not a pleasant day to view Luderitz, so we drove through the town and watched all the nice German buildings. It will be very nice to walk through those little streets - maybe when the children come.

View of the Beach at Luderitz

We found SHEARWATER. This is the best hidden secret where you will find the best and cheapest Oysters. We spent a very nice afternoon there; the personnel are so willing to help. Soon Hans met Margarette who owns a guest house and our problem for December was something of the past.

CAMP IS OUT IN DECEMBER AT LUDERITZ, you can never fight against the wind.

‘KLEIN AIS” was our choice for a camping site tonight. We went to see the camping site, it was beautiful and in the mountains. Each camping site had its own split pole fence, a bench with table and a barbeque. They are all build next to a big tree; you need a tree in this heat. One thing I can say, the Camp sites in Namibia are on average in a good condition but they don’t come cheap anymore. I think that’s why so many visitors to Namibia prefer to bush camp. Gone are the days of an affordable camping holiday in Namibia.

We had our coffee and worshipped the Lord, while the Sun was rising over the beautiful Mountains in al shades of gold. Rosh Pinah was our next stop. On the way we saw a lot of Drilling machines busy drilling, a guy on the road told us they are drilling for Sink. Rosh Pinah has a lot of Sink mines. They owe their existence to Sink. We were surprised by the size of the town; there was even a Mall. Spar was a shop with a big variety of products. The WIMPY sign made us longing for a Wimpy coffee; we didn’t have a wimpy coffee for 7 months. We followed the signs, sadly the Wimpy was closed. So we have to wait, how long?????

A view over the mighty Gariep from our bedroom

The Richtersveld stars here with the Gariep River flowing through this area are such an amasing sight. We headed for the Gariep; everybody told us there are nice camping spot on the River. Hans found us this little Paradise after the 5^th turn off. The best was that there were no other human beings. Two Monkeys came to say hello, but after Hans gave them a hand shake with the ‘KETTI’ they decided to leave and never came back.

Hans the BIG FISHERMAN 

Butter bean soup with Marrow bones were on the menu, while the sun was setting behind the Mountains with beautiful silhouettes on the water. Hans took the opportunity to take some photos.

We thought we were Adam and Eve. When it was shower time, with nobody insight, it was that free feeling when standing under the hot water of the ‘pig bladder’. I thought this is the closest we can get to heaven on this earth. The stars were so bright; I think this is where the song came from ‘TWINKLE TWINKEL LITTLE STAR’.  The moon was growing and its light helped us to see the bushes and the rocks in the water. We didn’t need a light, the Moonlight was enough.

Sunrise over the Gariep

Sunday morning we were up Gariep River. The Sun lit up the sky behind the Mountains. We enjoyed our coffee and Rusks while waiting to take our pictures. The fish were tempting Hans; they were jumping high out of the water. He cast his line in the water and waited, but nothing happened. Then he asked Elisme to make him some bait. The recipe for that was bread, curry and egg yolk, and this must be kneed.  The rucksack was packed with mugs filled with Al Bran, milk and sugar and flasks with ROOIBOS and HONEY - we were ready for the big fishing expedition.

Our walk down the River was a very slippery one with steep banks going down to the River. The footpath was narrow. The tree branches were hanging low over the path; we had to crawl many places. Hans was determined to get to the rapids where the fish was.

He got his rod and did what a good fisherman does, he casted and waited. The excited call announced that he had a fish, the excitement was better than the fish. We ended up with 3 fish and then went back all the way to the Land Rover. The Sun was now really coming down fierce on us, the temperature rising to the high thirties. The awning of the Landy was a welcoming shelter, as there were no big trees.

To cool ourselves we went to the rapids close to our camp and splashed ourselves with water. This was our only way of survival. We spent a day reading and taking photos. The two of us are trying to manage the cameras on MANUAL.  We are learning from an article in a WHEEL magazine. The further we get the more respect we get for all these people taking STUNNING pictures.

Fish was on our menu for the evening. Hans was cleaning the fish. That was not so easy; the little bones were all over. Elisme prepared a curry sauce and mash. The camp fire was burning with inviting flames over the River, long after the Moon was on its way to the West. Hans and Elisme were watching the flames in all the orange colours and listing to the night sounds of water, combined with birds trying to get a good night’s rest.

Monday morning we woke up with a feeling of joy, it was just so nice to think we are crossing the border to our own SOUTH AFRICA today.

Sendelingsdrift was our aim to cross in to South Africa. The officials at Sendelingsdrift on the Namibian side were so efficient and did their job in minutes. What a difference to the rest of the border crossings we had. We compliment them for excellent work. Then we proceeded to the PONT, here there is no bridge so we had cross the Gariep River which is the border between South Africa and Namibia with the PONT. This was a quick transfer and we stepped on our Birth country’s soil.

South Africa our Country of birth on the other side

Mkulu and Elisme on the Pont crossing to SA

We arrived after 6 months 15 days, 500km in Spain and Portugal and 26 400km in Africa. Sometimes no roads, Desert and Mud, Police blockades and many times facing an AK 47 riffle. We were safely back in South Africa.  We can praise the Good Lord for looking after us. We give him all the honour, we can say from our hearts there is for certain a living GOD.  

On South African ground the Immigration Officers were so friendly and made us feel WELCOME. At the Petrol station we met Sujata Singh and her husband. They are from Sandton, Johannesburg and doing a Safari in the Richtersveld. Sujata and her husband were born in India; he moved to New York and stayed there for 25 years, till she convinced him to come to South Africa. She moved to South Africa 10 years ago. They both love South Africa and the Safari thing is top on their list. They were very impressed with the layout off the Land Rover.  We were enjoying their company and left as friends, with promises of visiting each other in 2012.

Last year we stayed at SPOGPLASIE with ANNMARIE and SALOMIE in the RICHERSVELD close to ALEXANDERBAY. The farm overlooks the GARIEP RIVER. The entrance to the farm is so inviting, blue and white painted farm implements welcome you at the front door. The LAPA is colourful and inviting in a theme off blue and white. They have a barbeque with a big fire burning, to serve all the guests with Annmarie’s “BOEREKOS “. This goes with their warm hospitality. They insist that all the guests come together in the Lapa. It is so homely, with a glass of red wine everybody soon relaxes. That was what Hans and Elisme needed now.

Spogplasie and Elisme relaxing 

We arrive at SPOGPLASIE to find everything just the way we remembered it from December 2010. Our tree was still waiting for us; Hans parked the Land Rover with our Umbrella, table and benches. We were at home with a mug of coffee. This will be our home for the next 10 days till we meet the Children at Mac Doogles bay. We will return to Swakopmund for Christmas and New Year.

The CRAYFISH season opened on Saturday, we all bought permits and gate entry fees. ALEXKOR MINE opens the restricted area for people for fishing and Crayfish.

Our year long friends from Pretoria, André and Freda, came on Saturday on their way to Namibia for the December holidays. They will do Namibia and Botswana.

Sunday morning we all got up at 5:30 am to be at the gate of ‘HOLGAT’, the restricted area, for our day of CRAYFISH catching. Johan and Willem were ready in their diving suites. The rest of us were there to give moral support, with the coffee, sherry and container to put the crayfish in.

Holgat was a very rocky terrain with deep turquoise pools of water. This was where the crayfish were clinging to the rocks. Although it was low tide the waves were fierce. George, who is a child of the Richtersveld, said it was because of Springtide. The two divers were having a roof time in the pools. But soon our container was getting full.

On the beach they have a nice spot behind a dune, with a fire place. They use a milk can that has been cut to boil the crayfish with some see bamboo. George and Willem know how to do this; you can see this is not their first time. A big fire is built around the milk can and then from boiling it takes 17minutes.  They then take the crayfish out on a big smooth stone; looks as if this stone was specially made as a serving counter.

We never new eating a Crayfish can be so much fun.  Where we come from we think thatonly the TAIL of the crayfish is eatable. Willem junior is only 13 years old and he knows all about the sea. He was the one with Antjie who showed us to break every little leg from the body and how much meat you get from that. Antjie opened the head and there was the liver, which burst from the heat. To take out the intestine from the tail is quite a process.

Salome, who organized this outing for us, was helping and seeing to all our needs. She made snacks and sandwiches to keep us going while waiting for the Crayfish.

The wind was blowing at 45km/h but with the Dune and the cars parked to give shelter, we had a lovely day. To be with these ‘NAMAQUALANDERS” is such a privilege. My father will truly say “hulle is die sout van die Aarde” and with that we all agree.

Annmarie, as always, waited for us with a real home cooked meal. The hospitality of these people has no limits. After a very pleasant and enjoyable meal we all went for coffee on the Lapa. Then it was time for bed.

The four of us will remember this day in the Richterveld, with lots of stories to tell.

We left for Mac Doogles bay to meet our children after 7 months. The reunion was one of the HIGHLIGHTS TO END OUR SAFARI.

One of the many things we learned on this Safari is the KINDNESS of STRANGERS and leaving as FRIENDS.   Therefor we need to mention once again everybody, who helped to make our AFRICAN DREAM come true.

To our living GOD, that protected us, and who had a chain of ANGELS around us on this journey, thanks for the GREAT OPPORTUNITY.  

First to our Partners, Stephanus and Mariana, Coen and Shanhaz - without you, this DREAM would never have been a DREAM. Each one of you was so special in his or her own way. Thanks for that. Be sure if we must choose partners again, you will be the first we will invite.

Our children running PAM GOLDING, Louis, Andreas and Anton, you were doing a great job. Carlien, Tascha and Michelle supporting them during this time, we thank you.  Andre who was managing the BELFAST ROYAL HOTEL, you did well under difficult circumstances. Thanks that we could live our DREAM as ‘ERFGELDVRETERS”.  We saw that you are ALL capable of running the Businesses, therefor our next JOURNEY to SOUTH AMERICA  is on the cards.

Morocco -  we still remember and will always remember FATIMA and her family looking after the 6 of us.

Mauritian - the professional way the Staff of the South African Embassy, Johan Spies the Ambassador and Derrick answered all our questions.

Senegal - Piet ”Posduif” and Gerhard for them nothing was too much. Gerhard opened his home for us with AIRCON, WHEN THE TEMPERATURE WAS RUNNING BETWEEN 45 AND 55 DEGREES. Piet took us to see Dakar and Gore Island.

The Gambia -there Cindy was looking after us, she opened her own home to make us feel so at home.

Mali - we stayed at the SLEEPING CAMEL, Vivian from the South African embassy was so helpful with our questions. She is a true South African Ambassador.

The Gambia - words can never thank Jimmy, Willem and Marjolein for all their kindness. We will wait for you in South Africa to do a little PAYBACK.

Koos Moorcraft helping with info to get us through Angola.

Namibia at Epupa falls - Koos Verwey who let us camp there for 10 days as his guests. That was what we needed after 6 months of packing and driving everyday.

Spogplasie - where we could camp under our tree with Annmarie and Salomi. They treated us like family, Annmarie was even asking for our washing every morning. The real “Boerekos “everyday was really a treat for us.

To all people who were kind to us, and which we haven’t mentioned, thanks from our hearts.

To all the thousands of readers, we hope you enjoyed the journey with us and that it was just as interesting for you.

Photos of the Moon-landscape and desert elephants

AN OASES IN THE MOONLANDSCAPE

A REAL LITTLE MOON HOUSE

Doesnt this looks exactly like the MOON

Blog Moon Landscape -Mirabib -Maltehohe

21 November Monday we left Swakopmund to find a place to camp in the desert. We took the C28 towards the desert. Elisme was not at all impressed with this landscape. Hans told her they call this area the ‘MOONLANDSCAPE’ this was not landscape and were not kind on the eye. From horizon to horizon there was no dunes it was like a very big RUGBY FIELD, nothing no tree no animal just nothing.

Hans turned off to the left, after a few kilometres, as if from nowhere, there’s this stunning ‘MOONLANDSCAPE’ with grey and shades of white rolling hills. Still there was no life or plants. This terrain was alive all though there was no life. This was an extremely different view. I think this is what Neil Amstrong thought when we reached the moon.

We now were driving round corners and hills, the next turn we took, this OASIS. The green of these Palm trees were just so intense. We could see this is a well maintained farm. The sign posts were very clear and NO ENTRE. Hans parked and went to the office.

They allowed us to camp at their camping site, which is not yet fully operational. This was really a very nice Oasis in the desert. The facilities are tiled with beautiful tiles. The warm water works with a ‘DONKEY’ but there is steaming hot water morning noon and night. The camping sites are nicely marked with palm stumps shielding   then each camping site has its own barbeque and table with benches, with a nice piece of green grass, big trees for shading.

We thought to stay here for 3 nights. The Swakop River was right next to this Oasis, so the underground water table must be very high. They have water coming from the river flowing through the camp, a big dam to swim in.

Goanikontes this is the farms name, the owner Mr. Metzer, gave us a leaflet from one of the first owner’s daughter. This was most interesting to read. They came from the Cape and had to face very difficult circumstances. They came by ox wagon and met a lot of Missionaries and trekkers on their way. The country full of lions, buffalos’, Crocodiles a Rhino’s were everywhere. Then they had to face the Hottentots, which was after their oxen. Water was one of the major problems. When they reach Goanikontes they thought they were close to heaven. This is the same feeling we got when we laid our eyes on this green Oases.

Rodger and Nadin had very bad news about their container,. The container consists out of 2 cars and 2 motor bikes, so 6 persons are waiting for the arrival of their vehicles. The arrival date from the company DELMAS was the 21 November then changed to 22 November. On the 22 November they were told the container never came South it went to Lome, They can’t tell them when it will be picked up, they THINK it will only arrive in WALVIS on the 25 JANUARY 2012. They are devastated all their plans have to change, and still they are not sure. Nobody can confirm the date. One of the guys is an attorney and he says there is nothing they can do, LOOK AT THE SMALL PRINT.

Hans and Elisme offered to take them with them till their vehicle arrives, if we can get a confirmed date. Rodger and Nadin will let us know as soon as they have the information.

So Hans and Elisme left for the  Namib Naukluft Park. the same view met their eyes as on their way to the Moonlandscape. This was once again miles of nothing. Then slowly the terrain started to change. The Kuiseb River flow here, or shall I say the Kuiseb River bed is here. There is no water in the River. Hans drove down to the River bed, to have  coffee. Just as we settled a vehicle came to stop there. Hans went to talk to the guy. He was from NAM WATERWORKS. He came to fix the equipment measuring the water when the river comes down.

The sand was very thick and Hans was slowly moving out of the sand after deflating his tyres.  He moved on to the camping cite Homeb . This was a nice shady site with lots of big trees. They had a table and chairs with a fire place.

Elisme served them Curry fish and Seed bread. After a shower they went to read. The night was very dark with no living soul in the vicinity and no moon. The only sound they heard was some wild horses very far. They saw them on their way to the camping site. Milly would have been very impressed with the beautiful stallion leading the herd.

Early morning coffee was a feast and as always so special. Their second cup or shall I say mug of coffee, they had at an old mine shaft. Hans was fascinated with the depth of this shaft. Vandalises broke  a 30 cm block of concrete to open part of this  shaft. Hans throw a stone in it, we listened how it was falling, according to that sound it must be very deep, it was rolling for at least 60 seconds. We have no idea what they were mining in this National Park, but all activities stopped.

We saw our first Zebras, Oryx, Springbuck and Ostricts and our FIRST WARTHOG all together in the field at one spot. This as a magnificent sight, open plains of grass as far as the eye can see 360 degrees and then ONE SPOT with al these species together.

On a few bigger trees in a little slope Hans spotted 2 very big black birds. It was difficult to identify them. I am sure Suzette and Marlien would have been able to do it. After taking pictures and at the camp, we could identify them as LAPPED FACED VALTURE

Mirabib we saw the photo in a magazine. This looked like the most idyllic place to be. So Elisme asked Hans to make this our next camping spot. Once again she realised how misleading a photo can be. Her mind’s eye was telling her this is at the sea, so no SEA only grasslands to the horizon. I must say there rock formation has extra ordinary layers of white and shades of al the autumn colour. The boulders are not your normal size they are HUGE.

There were many camping sites each one looked more appalling. We made our choice and settle in with all our things nice to have, and looking forward to an afternoon of peace and tranquillity.

We made Rooibos tea with honey and Brocthen with German Salami tomato’s and sweet chilli. Siesta was in this afternoon, we each have a nice story book we would like to read.

After coffee we went to explore the environment. On a hill we saw a plaque stone with 2 German names. They were in memory of husband and wife with a small vase of flowers next to it. They must have been very fond of this place.  They kept Hans and Elisme bury for a while wondering why will somebody prefer to be rest in peace her. This is so isolated from the world. I can really say the quietness can scare you here.

Back at our camping site, Hans saw the bees, first just a couple then hundreds. We realised we are in trouble. They were all over in our tent and at our camping equipment. We rushed to pack and Hans closed the tent. Then we Doomed inside the car, opened the back door. They flew out and we could get in the car and drove off to another campsite.

Early morning we woke up with the zoom of the bees. We knew we were in trouble, so Hans got up and Doom the leak at the water tank. Then we made our coffee and left. Coffee time was at a Picnic spot overlooking the Kuiseb Canyon.

Hans saw on the GPS. Henno Martin Shelter 1.1.km from where we were standing. We thought it a good idea to go and see it for ourselves. The rock formation here was again totally different. I think GOD had his concrete mixer here; it looked like tennis ball shape stones mixed in concrete, to form huge rocks. You can’t think that all the mountains we saw were different. I think a good idea for all the fashion designers are to come on a Safari to Namibia and see what shades and texture you get here.

The Shelter was an overhanging rock which provided shade and protection against the rain IF IT EVER RAINS HERE. The view over the rolling hills was terrific.

Back to the Land Rover we were glad for the fridge with ice cold water. Not a very good time for a walk in the desert 12 o’clock.

We moved on to our overnight camping site Laruvlei, there are nice trees and tables in a good condition. We saw no game but lots of little weavers.

The camp fire was very inviting lots of dry branches which were lying around. Our Supper was Brat Wurst and Spuds with a butter sauce. Then we had a nice warm shower and retreat to our Boudoir.

Elisme went in the tent to read, Hans followed her. Just then they heard the zooming of the Bees again. They were following them. Now nothing was outside, so Elisme said leave them they will go away when it is dark. Hans realised they are drinking the water from a small leak on one of the water tanks.

The Lesson to learn out of this is, careful for a leak in your water tank.

Sunset they left, but we preferred to shower inside the dressing room tonight. Not one of us was in for a bee stung.

The valleys birds all had the same idea as us. They wanted to sleep underneath these rocks where we were camping. Some were prepared to put up a big fight for the best seat for the night. May be soon as they have sorted each other they will be sleeping.

Early morning we left for The Gamsburg Mountains. We took some coffee in our mugs and at a spot with lots of Oryx, Zebra’s and Springbuck we stopped to have our ‘MOMENT OF SILENTS’ once again we realised how privileged we are, Only the birds and game to watch us, in this creation of GOD.

The view point at the Gamsburg Mountains was one with a warning ‘STAY ON THE ROAD” then you realise how easy you can fall over the edge of these rocks. No warning just straight down.

Apple strudel with cream and coffee was up for lunch at Solitaire. Lasted time we were here with Daniel and Alida the Apple strudel was a disappointment. I must say this time it was much better

We needed to draw money, in this part of Namibia a ATM is very rear. We saw a sign at the shop, ‘OUT OF ORDER’. Elisme knew they were in trouble, the next ATM will only be at Luderitz, and their diesel will not make it. The shop assistant was so kind he swiped the card and change for cash. Just shows you the Namibian people are kind to tourists.

Hans took the road to Maltahohe over the SPREETBURG MOUNTAIN PASS. This was a spectacular road. We crossed the TROPIC CAPRICON for the 7 th time, and not the EQUATOR. We’re very conscious that we are in a different climate very dry to that of the Equator. I don’t know what is the best or worse the DRY HEAT or the HIGH HUMIDITY. My skin knows, I was looking 10 years younger at the EQUATOR. Now our skins are so dried out it is only one wrinkle on the other, SO NO MORE PHOTOS’.

 Sunday afternoon in Malteheho nobody works nothing is open, no answer on any cell phone. This town really dies on a Sunday. We tried even the Hotel, Elizabeth, Henry and Tobias will be glad to hear, NO ANSWER at the hotel. So we went back to the PAPPOT CAMPING SITE. Hans drove around the fencing, he saw a man walking, asked him what the possiblality to camp here for the night is. He said he stays here for 4 months now, he is sure they won’t mind if he opens for us. So we camped here for the night.

The Owners are Mannetjies and Hendriette we met them Monday morning. We thought to stay another night and Hans needed to clean the Land Rover from all the dust.

Exploring Maltehohe was on the program for Monday afternoon, may be the little hotel will be open. Hans and Elisme walked down to the town, I must say the town only exists out of a Agri shop, garage Butchery and the Hotel, sad but all the other shops have closed down. The guy at the hotel told us the town had its excitants to the ‘karakul” farmers and since GREEN PEACE has closed down the industry. This was now becoming a ghost town. The hotel building was 100 years old and still the original. The memorabilia in this hotel can keep you busy for days. They have a photo collation of many of the previous citizens like Dr Krantz and then the ‘JUKSKEI CLUB” with all their trophies and photo’s. We visit the butchery to buy some nice Lamb chops to braai the evening. We saw in front of the butchery stood a Chevrolet Fleet line Van in a superb, condition. The owner told us he got this Chevy in 1972 January and he got married February 1972 so his wife can go not his Chevy, he has it longer then his wife. This was an interesting afternoon spent with the locals of Maltehohe.

A mobile home moved in late afternoon, with once again Swiss people. Soon they came over and we had a very nice chat. Believe it they toured SOUTH AMERICA for 5 years, how lucky can people be. They showed us their coffee table book on that. Renate says she is not a professional photographer but here photo’s speaks something else. She can really send them to National Geographic. They convinced us that SOUTH AMERICA will be our next destination, if the Louis, Andreas. Anton and Andre will keep the business going.

Next time Sossiesvlei and Luderitz

 

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Palmwag - Damara Land

 Palmwag Damara Land,

Tuesday we left Ongongo to Palmwag. Just where we entered the main road we got cell reception.  We phoned Rodger and Nadin, they were on the bus at Upington to Windhoek. They will make contact with us when they’re in Windhoek.

Hunky ready for the Far North of Namibia

Palmwag Conservation on top of a hill somewhere to nowhere. We saw people were camping there but the only thing left, were the ashes of the camp fire and ELEPHANT DUNG. Hans could not believe here in the middle of this semi desert, no trees and ELEPHANT DUNG. We then drove in a branch of the Uniab  River about 10 km from where we first saw the  Dung. As we decent to the River bed, on the River Bank across Hans saw an Elephant. Then we saw the family, father, Mum and toddler. Soon we saw the herd, 23 of them. We are so privileged to saw so many Desert Elephants.  

On the GPS  it said this is a restricted area. Hans as always the law obedient Citizen, drove across the field with big stones, ‘SEKELBOS’ but Hans must get out. Eventually we got back to the main road with no “”PUNTURES”

Our only friend on the way back to the main road.

It was now time to look for camping.  A game viewing vehicle was watching something, as we approach, our FIRST KUDU, no not ONE, 5 big Bulls. They were not impressed with our presence

So no nice photo’s to put on the blog. Hans saw a big quarry, which will hide the vehicle from the eye of by passers. That was a safe haven for the night. As we turn we were disturbing 2 Silver Back Jackals. One was not at all bother with us, just continue to lay and watch us. As Hans switched of the Landy, she gave us a “Why This” look and slowly moved away, looking over her shoulder, but no hurry.

Hans made a juicy Rump steak in the Tachine with “POTBROOD” Elisme join in on the bread and a mug of her favourite “HOT CHOCOLAT’. This was the culprit, for a middle of the night ‘Bladder call’. Hans had no choice but to open the door and check for any danger.

Wednesday morning we set of Palmwag, diesel was on the list and cell connection. Elisme want to post the blog and both of them to do email. Then they must contact Rodger and Nadin. They’re now in Windhoek and will leave for Swakop on Friday. We’ll meet them there.

What a pleasant surprise, as Hans was busy with re fuelling 6 LAND ROVERS   stopped at the filling station. Land Rover owners always greet each other, and have a conversation about their vehicle, where are you going, and from where are you coming. JOHAN LOUW was the leader of this group. He is from Germany and does his companies LAND ROVER EXPERIENCES safari leader and does Safari’s all over the world.

Johan Louw with his Safari group "LAND ROVER EXPERIENCE"

 He is really a very pleasant person. He knows his vehicles and his planned Safari. Soon we were having a nice conversation on every body’s experiences. We left with promises to follow the blog and make contact once Johan is back in Germany.

Our lunch was going to be at, Twyfelfontein. Daniel and Alida will be glad to here we went back. The last time we were camping with them at Twyfelfontein. Daniel took us to a Lodge with the most stunning view. Now we know this Lodge, the Airstrip Petrol Station and work shop belongs to a Mr. De Beer.  

Elisme was still busy with doing the photos for the blog. This really takes a long time. Hans got permission for us to do our picnic lunch at the camp site. He met Martin and Claudia they were having a drink.

Hans came back to Elisme and said he met these most interesting people born Austria and now living in Cape Town South Africa. He wants to go and talk to them, as they have just completed the root we want to take. 

Hans and Elisme had a delicious meal of Chicken Risotto with baby potatoes. Martin and Claudia came to meet Elisme and Said goodbye.

We left for the Rendezvous village, Louis, Andreas and Anton will remember the RENDEZVOUS in Pretoria our guest house where they grew up. I am sure they do have many memories of that. This Rendezvous is only a water pump for the animals to come and drink, so they have their RENDEZVOUS here.  I am sure they have many ‘THANK YOU’S’ for who every drilled this borehole. At least they do not have to go thirsty anymore.

Elephant much more interested in 'LUNCH' than any human been.

We entered the Huab River bed with big Anna Trees; once again we saw Elephant droppings and their footprints. As we go along, then we saw a game viewing vehicle from Wilderness Safaris they have concessions in Namibia.
Then Hans saw the first Elephant to our surprise there was a vehicle between the Elephants. This was Martin and Claudia, relaxed watching the Elephants as they graze their way down the River enjoying the Anna trees. Hans couldn't believe them sitting there and the elephant just grazing and sometimes flapping their ears and then passing by. We watched this herd of 20 plus Elephants with tiny babies, mothers and aunts protecting them.  This was a true example of human not disturbing the wild and the wild excepting the human been.

2 Landies happy for the night. Martin and Hans 2 very proud Land Rover owners

 We stopped to say hello and ended up leaving the next day at mid day. Martin and Claudia ar two very interesting people, they have travelled East Africa from South to North and then from East to West. The four of us had so much to share. We were talking and preparing a 5 star Dinner as Claudia has remarked till the clock stroke 1 hour pass midnight.  We could talk about any National Park they have been there. They really love the unspoiled and most desolated places. What Elisme liked most was; “. Daniel this was now a real ‘BON FIRE” every time the fire started to fade Claudia came with another dry half tree. Hans was responsible for baking the bread, Elisme made a three bean soup with baby potatoes. The soup bones went on the fire to brown, and the marrow was for the bread. Martin roasted the chicken wings and Peri Peri veggies. Claudia made an onion rice to die for. Martin opened a bottle of red wine.

Martin helping Hans with his GPS'S

Martin’s Land Rover TD5 is extremely well equipped. He has tested every gatched on the Land Rover and everything worked perfect. From the roof that lifts for their bed which is 1,5m high to the gas shower and a pump to make sure the water flow don’t stop. His coffee and breakfast bar work in 1 minute after he has stopped. No rain will every bother them, they have a double canvas over the Landy. Elisme thinks their Landy is well equipped but when she saw, Martins “Pig Bladder” on the bonnet for hot shower, she made a mental note for Christmas.

We came as strangers but left as friends, as so many times on this trip. Martin and Claudia will be on our visit list next time we go down to Cape Town. They will come and see the ‘OLD” Easten Transvaal” and spent time with Hans and Elisme.

What do you think, DEAD or SLEEPING????????????

About 3 km away from Martin and Claudia we saw the Elephants and under a tree there lies a dead Elephant. First we thought it must be sleeping, but Elisme said she has never seen an Elephant lying down to sleep, it must be dead.
We watched it for a while took photos and then decide to go back and tell Martin and Claudia. We saw a Landy coming; Martin flashed his light and told us the bee’s attacked them just after we left. He got stung twice; they just throw everything in the car and drove off. We told them about the dead Elephant; Martin asked whether we were sure it’s dead?   We said we have never seen an Elephant lying down to sleep. He said Claudia read in a book, that the Dessert Elephant do that. So here we go, is the Elephant dead or sleeping. Hans took the GPS Coordinates. This is the tree and there the Elephant is standing, so it did arose from the DEATH. We learned something new about Elephants. Thanks to Martin and Claudia. They said they are just going to stay there and watched the Elephants.

Hans and Elisme moved on with the Huab, this road cross the Huab swamps. The GPS describes it as a very difficult crossing.

Hans coming in at the very difficult obstacle

 You can see the vehicles rather turn around here to take another road. Hans got out and as a good 4x4 driver first walked his obstacle. Elisme took photos of him doing it. After his observation, he was ready to drive through. Elisme nearly broke her arm climbing to the highest spot to take photos while Hans drives through. I must say he really did a good job.

 We now moved on to The Desolation Valley. The name says it all, what was beyond our wildest dreams. We saw in this total desolation a herd of between 200 and 300 Springbucks.  Oryx and Ostrich were just as many, a round every hill, where there were an open plain, there were Game.

The Rocks have amazing shapes in the Desolation Valley

The mountains had the most interesting shapes and colours. The rocks were different from one area to the following one.

We got to “GAT AS FOUNTAIN” This is an Oases in the semi Dessert. There we saw hundreds of Namaqualand Sand Grouse, two Black stripe Jackals.  On the hill there were ancient DAMARA DWELLINGS inside one of them between the stones there is a visitor’s book to sign. That was fascinating to read what everybody was saying and so many languages. Just proves that Namibia is really a tourist paradise for foreigners.

This is a little jewel to sleep, but they ask tourist to respect the animal’s private drinking hole. So PLEASE DONT CAMP THERE. We left to look for a suitable place to sleep the night. High up on the Escarpment Hans thought this will be nice place overlooking the plains.

Pied Crow sharing our breakfast.

Sunset in the Desert

We got visitor soon after we sat down to watch the beautiful sunset.
Two Pied Crow came to see what they can get for Supper. Our meal tonight was a pasta one pot, as Marianna always said. Elisme made a cheese cream sauce with Spinach (still from Shanhaz). She would say” well Guys,   please dig in” I can promise you we did. The Pied Crows got their fare share of bread. We watched them gobbling in the bread, and then flow off. It didn’t take long for them to return. After a while Hans watched them with the binoculars. They went to hide the bread in their pantry for another day.

Friday morning we woke up by the call of the Pied Crows,. They were ready for coffee and to share our rusks with us. What they didn’t know was, no ruskes, just EAT SUM MORE BISCUITS. That didn’t bother them; they were soon part of the morning feast. They made themselves so at home, right at our feet.  They followed the same routine, eating flying away and coming again.

Hans drove to the hill where they have there pantry. He got out and there it was, neatly stored between stones and then a stone on top. They are so clever, not one pantry a few.  So if any enemy take, one pantries food they still have some left. We learned so many good life lesson form nature on this trip..

 Not far from us we saw a herd of Kudu’s. They have such good ears, the slightest movement and they run. This time we were lucky we got a nice picture.

Agab River with its beautiful Anna trees.

The road was getting worse, the GPS Was warning us to a bad bad road with sharp rocks. We had to pass another swamp area, to the Agab River.
This was once again an extra ordinary beautiful terrain, big Anna trees and white sand. The rocks in this valley were layered white and black. Some was different shades of all the brown. We had our lunch under a tree,

Black and White layer rocks. Ever seen something so beautiful

We headed for mile 108; we want to see how that looks. Louis said we can get camping there for 5 days in December. This will not work for us, ‘long drop toilets’ MATTHYS and INGRID our grandchildren will not know what to do. This is ‘TOILETS’ long before their time. They only hear about them in stories.

Hans thought it will be better to sleep in the Desert then there. So we moved on to another desolated road, which took us to a dry River bed.

Mr. Jackal welcoming us in the River bed.

The Jackals must like us; here we had Mr. Jackal lying on the River Bank waiting for us. He was send by the local committee to welcome us, or so it looked. He just waved his tail and watched us putting up camp.  I have no idea when it left, hours later he was gone.

Elisme had Spaghetti bolognaise for the evening meal in mind. Hans was quite happy with that. The wind was blowing cold from the sea and we were looking forward to a early evening reading.

The tranquillity of this outstretched world, with nothing and nobody let you sleep like when you last were a baby. That is just what we did, we slept like babies. The sun was way up in the sky when we woke up. The Jackal was missing and only two tiny birds were flapping around. They were too small for me to recognise.

What a privellege to camp all by yourself

Cigarettes?????????????? No a extra ordinary rock 

Hans, Elisme, with their friends from Switzerland Nadin and Rodger

 Two cups of coffee and EAT SUM MORE biscuits, OUMAS RUSKES are finish.  When Hans broke the silence with our morning scripture it sounded like an echo. I am sure GOD must have heard every word of that. Nobody talk to him in this desolated world.

Hentties Bay was 58 km for where we were according to the GPS. Hans inspect another camping site. This time we were very impressed, each camping site has its own Toilet and scullery. The total lay out was really very good planning. Sorry, but they were full for this December. The girl asked, “Do we want to book for 2012.” This is understandable with this standard. Congratulations on this Henties Bay.

Rodger and Nadin were waiting for us in Swakopmund at The Village Cafe. We sms them,  we are now on our way.  Eight Overland trucks passed us on their way with tourists to The Seal farm. This was just another proof of the success of Namibia as a tourism destination. I wish South Africa was so successful. Suzette emailed me that the bookings in Hermanus and around was less this year then the previous year. May be that was because of the world Cup in2010. Let hope so, and that South Africa is still a high priority for overseas tourists. I must say that must of the tourists we met on our way all what to see Cape Town and the Kruger National Park. Most of the Safari guys ends their trips in South Africa, so there is hope for us.   The only thing to change in South Africa is our image of crime and danger.

We had a nice re union with Rodger and Nadin. They just couldn’t get a Visa for Angola and DRC. These two countries really make it so difficult for travellers to get their visas. Many of the people we met had the same problem, so they ship their cars from Point Nior to Walvis Bay and then fly via Johannesburg South Africa back to Windhoek to continue their journey.

We had so much to tell, that we thought it a idea to go for an German meal, seeing that we’re in “German Country” .  

Natures own toilet.  Please just dont forget your toilet paper. keep nature as PRISTINE  as it is!!!!!!!!  

We went 12 km out Swakop to Sophia’s Camping site. Hans wants to sort out the Land Rover and the dew close to the sea is very heavy in the mornings. The Germans who camped with us at Epupa highly recommended Sophia’s camping site. I must say the grounds and the Ablutions block is  spotless clean and believe it HOT SHOWERS. This was the first camp where they deliver ‘HOT  BROTCHEN’”\7o’clock in the morning. This was now really a BIG TREAT.

Next time Walvis Bay to Luderitz, and all the Dunes.

 

Marienfluss - Hartmansvalley, Puros Gorge - Oarub River -Ongongo

07-11-2011 MarienFluzz

Hans and Landy at Rooi Drom

Ova Himba village

Syncro Lodge of Koos Verwey all that is left after the Fire

Koos knows this part of Kaokoland, he was born in Namibia and live here for the past 22 years. He knows the plants and the people. He says the Ovambos are excellent business men. Their way of thinking that is why Namibia is as prosperous as a country. The people are friendly and peaceful. Tourists flock to Namibia; here you can sleep without fear. You don’t lock your camping gear away, nobody will take it.

Monday morning we set off to Upowa. Gerrit Has a Supermarket and bottle store where you can fill up your supplies. Elisme posted the blog and send emails to the children saying they are going to the Marienfluss and will have no way of contact for the next 10 days.

The road is very sandy and some places stony. Where they crossed the river beds it looks like a little paradise, Makalani Palm trees and rocks makes a nice bush camp. This is still Ova Himba country. We visit an Ova Himba graveyard. Their believe is to put, thorn branches and ox horns in them to protect the diseased. Nobody and the bad spirits will come there, so they can rest in peace.

The Springbuck share this country with the Ova Himba. They seem to live together in harmony. They graze and just look up when the vehicle pass, then continue to graze.

Hans and Elisme got a nice bush camp spot under a tree. Supper was a light one with salad made of pilchards, butterbean, tomatoes, onion, parsley, oregano with red peppers on fresh bread. Soon they were in the boudoir reading.

This time they woke up by the roar of a Lion or was it an Ostrich? That they will never know.  They pack up have coffee with a look over their shoulders for the Lion, just then the ROAR shacked the open plains again. Hans decided it is time to go, the safety of the vehicle is much better.

This terrain reminded them a lot of the Serengeti, open plains with Springbuck, Ostrich, Zebra and even Giraffes. The mountain far on the horizon were 3 different shades, they have the strangest shapes.  Just as they riches the top of the river bed, a Toyota 2 wheel was stucked in the sand. Hans got out and talk to them; they couldn’t move and was digging and trying leaves under the wheels. The Himba mother with her toddler was sitting on a rock in the sun. Hans manoeuvre   the Land Rover on another spoor, and then reversed to pull them out. Elisme took the opportunity to take a nice picture of mother and child; she gave them a bottle of cool drink,  biscuits with a tin of pate. I wonder if they knew what to do with the pate? They were very grateful, I think they thought Hans is going to pass and leave them.

Land Rover Saving a 2x4 Toyota

We woke up by the ROAR of a LION????????? Ostrich????????

Gratefull Himba Mummy and her Toddler

And her I am with my Baby

The road to “ROOIDROM” was getting worse and very narrow; Hans went very careful over the boulders in the road. “ROOIDROM’ is a well known beacon in the Kaokoland; there is nothing just a red drum and cattle lying under the trees. Everybody stop to write their names on a stone and place it underneath the red drum. The red drum is in memory of Jan Joubert, who loved the Kaokoland and Namibia and was murdered in Namibia. On our way we met Andy with his tourists from Germany again.  Andy according to Koos is a very good tour guide,

Going up another steep hill, we had to turn out of the road for 2 vehicles; they told us there are 2 more to come, so we wait. Strange how some people think, not even a´” thank you”, just taking it for granted that we wait for them.  I wonder what does a “thank you cost”.

When we got to the plains again, Hans saw a car at an Ova  Himba village. This can’t be true, Hans said it is the French people, just then Elisme saw Marian with her beautiful pink dress. Yes this was Michel and Marian on their way to Syncro camp.

Fairy Circles

Mountains with 3 shades

Bad Rocky Road

Here we started to see the ‘FAIRY CIRCLES’ between the grassland. There is no explanation why these circles, where nothing grows. Why just in circles and not in squares or rectangles?

Hans and elisme moved on to the camp. On their way they saw lots of Cori Buster under the trees. Syncro camp belongs to Koos Verwey and is managed by Anna and her daughter Jenny. Two years ago the Lodge here burned down. This was a very sad situation for this camp and Koos. The only thing left was Koos’s  house and the ablution blocks of the camp.

The Camp has a stunning view over the Kunene River and Angola. Our camp site has a little lapa overlooking the rapids. The camp is very well maintained by them. The showers and toilet spotless clean and in working condition.

Risotto was on the menu after Michel and Marian had a sundowner with Hans and Elisme. The wind was blowing and cooling of the night.  The rapids where singing their songs but just as a humming. That was enough to put us to sleep.

Michel was doing his Para gliding tripe over the camp and river. The conditions were excellent for flying so he landed and re-fuel for another 2 hour trip over Kaokoland. He must have taken the most stunning photos. Michel is doing photography for 42 years; he knows what he is doing with his many cameras and different lenses.

Hans and Elisme went for a hike in the mountains; we cannot walk along the river, to many cliffs. In an open gorge they saw  a snow white beach, with a crocodile tanning on the other side in the sun. The opening to the beach was closed with branches. They couldn’t understand why, until Jenny told them the story. On New Year’s Day 2011 a crocodile caught a man. Since then they closed of the beach so that people cannot swim in the tempting turquoise water. From that day the crocodile have the pool for him. Hans has his wits together and when Elisme was getting worried that they are lost. Every mountain looks the same, has had his beacons of the highest mountains. He lead them to the foot path of Anna’s house and back to the camp.

Jenny came to invite them all to go for a swim at a nearby lodge build by Italian owners and managed by a South African. This is really a world class Lodge, with world class prices. We were very privileged to enjoy their swimming pool with another look on the Cunene.

The 5 of us went for a walk to the waterfall which Michel saw when he was Para gliding

Back to the camp Michel and Marian join us for a sundowner , Jenny came to show them how to do bread rolls in the black pot. I must say she knows exactly how to make them.  They really went down with mince and chilli con beans as a hit.

While watching the locals coming for a bath, we heard those throwing stones in the river; ‘BIG ONE’ Jenny explained they do this so that if the crocodile is in the pool near the rapids it will swim away. They can then wash themselves in peace. The men are allowed to bath first and when they’re finish the women can come.

Jenny with her gifts

View of the Kunene from the Italian Lodge

Puros Gorge

Thursday morning after coffee and ruskes, we all said goodbye for Jenny. We didn’t leave without giving her a nice surprise packet with eats and drinks as well as a scarf from South Africa.

Our aim to day is to reach the Hartman valley. We will pass Green Drum, Blue Drum and Orange drum.  The road was the same, stony and sandy.   The road we follow alongside the Skeleton Coast will take us to Orupembe. We were going very slowly not to damage the cars. Hill up and hill down, with wide stretched out valleys, each time we reach the top the view was different. Hans with his Eagle eye spotted a Burchell’s SandGrouse with 3 small chickens.

Ababy chicken of Birchells Sand Grouse

 She was very nerves as we stopped an slowly got out of the car mother and father flew away. The four of us searched the road for the babies. l. That was really very difficult; they are so well camouflaged that it took us quite a time to find.  Michel got his photo shots Then Marian and Elisme watched the babies not to get in front of the wheels, while the boys slowly drove past. Namibia is a country with some much to give. That’s why people come back and just can’t get enough of this barren country, with stretches for miles and miles with not a single soul nearby.

No not SANDTON JOHANNESBURG!!!!!! close to 'ROOI DROM'

 As we came up a hill again we saw 15 vehicles parked and lots of people sitting under gazebos. We stopped and the tour leader Mark came to talk to us, soon the guests were joining him. This group are all working for a Medical company in Francs. They were doing a 7 day trip in Namibia.

We drove on to the end of the Hartman valley against the Skeleton Coast where the Red Duns start. The wind was blowing at a scary speed. There was no way we can camp here; Hans and Michel decided we must move on. The road was taking us to wide open fields with no grass just gravel. What surprised us were the many Oryx and Springbucks. We saw 150 Oryx at one plain with just as many Springbuck. We were wondering where do they get water and they were in an excellent condition. Our conclusion was that the semi desert vegetation was of very high nutritional value. The game is not worried about water so we left it there. They are thriving on their homeland.

Far in the valley Hans saw a couple of trees; then Michel and Marian saw a Double-Banded Sandgrouse, they were not very sure and took a stunning picture. We compare it to the Bird book of Newman’s. This was it. Michele and Marian thought this is a good place to setup camp for the night. We couldn’t ask for a more beautiful sunset. Michel and Hans took beautiful picture.

Look at this Rock

Wind blowing but that doesnt stop a SUNDOWNER

The evening meal Marian did a tasty mince, potato and carrot dish in her “”Three legged black pot“they never use gas, everything goes on the fire. They make an African safari a real one, with a camp fire in the morning and evening. They enjoy the African sky and miles of nothing totally unspoilt nature. Elisme made buns in the black pot as Jenny taught her. With a bottle of wine the meal was true to french cuisine, as or friends.

Look Jenny

Friday morning we said goodbye to Michel and Marian, they wanted to do another root then Hans. So Hans and Elisme continue on the road close to the Skeleton Coast towards Orupemba. This time Anton will e glad to hear his GPS, showed us all the non existing roads and took us to Orupemba. I must say there are so many roads to follow; it looks as every traveller in this area decides to take “HIS OWN ROAD.”

At Orupemble Hans stopped at the Police station for water and to ask about his root he wants to take. They recommended that we take the other road, as it is not advisable for one vehicle to go that way. So we went on the Skeleton Coast road towards the Puros Gorge. The Hoasib River was a little stream with clear water,  the green reeds and grass was a bird paradise.  The Hamerkop thought it a good idea to pause for a photo opportunity; Doepie would have been very impressed. In a pond up the River we saw a Red-knobbed Coot and a Moorhen. The  Blacksmith Plover was just as willing to give us a nice photo shot. We saw Springbuck, Oryx and Giraffes many Elephant droppings but no Elephants. In one of the Gorges there was a high hill with a view forever. Hans thought this will be an ideal camping place for the night, and it was. The only company we had was the Pied Crows. Elisme heard a noise at the back of the Land Rover, there they were.

Chicken and savoury rice was just what we needed for a evening meal. We thought of enjoying the sunset, when we got new visitor. Small muggiest tackling our eyes , ears and noses. That wasn’t nice, so we went in our Boudoir to have an evening of reading.

Coffee and Rusk’s with a view over the Hoarusib River while watching the sunrise. We had two cups of coffee to enjoy this picture unfolding before our eyes. Reluctant we start packing to see the Ganias valley today. The road will take us to along the Hoarusib River Amspoort . then we will drive in the Hoanib River to Dubis and then Ses Fontein.

The Hoarusib River was full of excitement for game viewing. The Giraffes was the first to meet us, followed by Oryx, Springbuck and then Ostrich. While we were watching an Oryx with a small calf far on the River bank under an Anna tree, Elisme saw a huge Elephant bull. As we came closer we saw he has only one broken tooth. The group must have thrown him out. Today was our Elephant day we saw 29 Elephants. We were so privileged to see a new born baby mother still watching it as it lay down, as well as 2 toddlers. Hans said there is no way we camp in this river bed. The Elephants here is known to be aggressive. They have killed a man one night went out for a wee.

Where the Hoarib and the Gnamub comes together they call it “Die Poort” we found a perfect Camp site overlooking the valley. Hans likes to camp with a view, actually he always likes a view, then he can see and have no surprises.

There was a readymade fire place done by previous campers, the coals was still hot. With no effort Hans made a camp fire. Elisme prepared a dough mix to do bread for them. Hans took the opportunity to do a lamb chop. The smell of that was hanging in the valley, but no animals to come and join us. We sat and listen to the quiet night until the moon was raising over the hill tops. Then it was bed time.

There were no animals waking us the next morning, but the view of the sun rising the same way as the moon got us speechless. We sat and have coffee without a word. Then Hans fetched the Bible and did our moment of silents.  We had so much to be thankful for. This beauty of the scene in front of us all the birds and game we saw. You just realise, how great God is who created al this for us humans to enjoy.

Ses fontein was quiet as you could feel it is Sunday. We fill up with Diesel and then found an ATM in a shop to draw money and buy a few items we are short of. Elisme had time to do her emails and read what came in, we then sms the Swiss guys, Rodger and Nadin. They sms they are now in Johannesburg SA. They will come by bus to Windhoek today.

We drove to Ongongo our next camping place. This is a waterfall coming from a hot water spring and falling in a crystal clear pool. The floor of the pool is laid out with small round river stones. high up the cliff the weavers took the opportunity to build their nest on a overhanging rock.

The Namibian sun was taking it toll, Hans and Elisme went in with their cloths, the water was just to tempting. To be honest they just took off their clothes and went in with their underwear. Likely nobody came to swim. Suzette would for sure take the gape to take a few stolen photos; I must say she can let any photo look so good, like Fig tree.

Motor Bikers at Ongongo

They met  guys from Australia Robert and a South African girl Naomi, they are camping to. Robert had the same problem as the Swiss, couldn’t get a Visa for Angola. He shipped his car from Point Noir and then flew from Brazzaville Congo to South Africa Johannesburg. There he met Naomi, they went to Madagascar while waiting for his vehicle to arrive at Walvisbay.

Then Hannibal touring company arrived with 6 motorbikes. They were very pleasant guys. Enjoying Namibia as one said we are doing Windhoek to Windhoek. They were very interested in our tripe.

You could see a little camp fire at each camp site and soon the aroma of “braaivleis” was hanging in the air. Elisme made “PAP” and a brown sauce like Ouma Joe always did. Hans did the “Boerewors “he bought at Gerrits butchery. I must say Gerrit knows what he is doing, his “Boerewors” we can really recommend.

Max who is looking after this camp said the night will cool off, that was true. Soon our duvet was very handy to snuggle up. The frogs had a choir competition tonight; the winner was the one who could make the biggest QUAAAAAAAAAK. Elisme didn’t mind with the murmur of the waterfall in the back ground it was perfect for a nice rest in the wild.

Camp at Ongongo

Ongongo Waterfall and Pool

 Monday morning the camp was quiet long after sunrise. Then everybody was having coffee and some their breakfasts. Soon everybody headed for the pool, the temperature was hitting for the 35 degrees.

Hans and Elisme had a very relaxed day, catching up with their emails on word and doing the block. The Coffee table book was still a lot to do.

Supper was German Pea Soup and fresh baked bread with marrow bones, for Hans. Willem,” Hans had his own COLESTROL DAY” . We had a most enjoyable day, swimming when it was hot just reading and talking. .

Next time Palmwag and future along the River.

Jenny, Michel and Marian in the swimming pool at the Italian Lodge