Border crossing Senega at Satadougoul to Mali at Kenieba

12-08-2011 Border crossing: Senegal at Satadougou, entering Mali at Kenieba.

This is the first time we came across no border post. Here started our search for their office. Nobody knows, they sent us from A to Z. With luck we found it. Very nice people stamped our passports, now the search for Duane to export the vehicles. This is about 20 km down the road, but we found it.

We say goodbye to Senegal with memories of lots of bribery. Here we was not scared of anything, even when bush camping we slept in peace. Thanks to the Senegalese people and a special thanks to Cindy in Banjul.

The Mali border was the same: no office. We found the immigration office after a search and lots asking. Stephanus and Hans were a little nervous. Our visas should only start on the 15th of August. They did a clever move, Coen showed their passports with visas first. The officer checked and stamped. Hans and Stephanus were lucky; he didn’t check the date again. Stamped passports in hand we were in Mali. The cars were imported; no extra cost this time,   our Carnets de passage worked. Thank you, Mali, no bribery!

We left for Bamako, the police told us they are building a new bridge over the Bakoye river, we must know they only open the temporary bridge at 3 o’clock.

Beautiful road to the bridge to Bamako and country site was breath taking

We decided not to have brunch but rather do the 120 km. to the bridge, and wait there.

Mali’s countryside was beautiful; green, with mountains as far as the eye can see. The villages are built together in a kraal shape, fenced with reeds rondawels, with reed and palm roofs. They are farmers, doing their lands. Maize is their main source of food.

First time we saw woman on motor bikes

The Mali people are friendly and they don’t storm your car to ask for money. This was first time we saw women on motor bikes. Here the main way of transport is motor bikes.

It was a newly build road, in excellent condition. The drive was a pleasant one.

The last part to the bridge was a new dirt road; Hans said we haven’t seen such a good road up to now in Africa.

The NIGHTMARE the bridge not finish and temprorary bdrige removed, before our eyes.

Soon we got to the bridge. Coen and Stephanus walked to the workers on the bridge, just to see how they remove the temporary bridge.

Hans and Coen went to see the engineer, trying to find out when we can pass. Bad news, we must go back to Kenieba, 120 km back. That was depressing news. Forest Gump: my mum use to say life is like a box of chocolates, you never know what you’re going to get. AFRICA, no notice or sign. JUST TOUGH LUCK.

Luckely Hans got us a beautiful camping site, out from the eye of the tar road

As it was getting late we decided bush camping will be the best. Tomorrow when the, sun shines the 390 km will be easier.

Elisme served curry and mushrooms with chive rice in the tagines. She bought dried mushrooms in a Supermarket, when soaked they were big ones, very tasty. Only 6 small dried ones made a normal SA packet. Something to remember for a Safari. Pudding was an orange caramel sauce with fried bananas, chocolate short bread biscuits soaked in kirsch. Served with cream and Amarula, that gave us all a good night’s rest.

Coen and Shanhaze having early morning coffee

We didn’t want to switch our lights on, the villages were very close, and so we had an early evening.  The night was cooler and it was nice to sleep.

Early morning we all had coffee and biscuits together around the table. (OUMA RUSKS FROM SA WERE FINISHED) No risks are to be found in these countries, only biscuits. We had our normal packing and became quiet before GOD.

Very Bad road our speed was 20 km 

Soon we were back in Kenieba. Coen as was leading way to Kayes, this will take us to Bamako. They assured us the road is fairly good. Maybe we don’t know what a bad road is. Our average speed on this 244 km leg is 22km per hour. Potholes, big enough to bury the Landy in, full of water.

We had brunch and then the boys decided there is no way we will reach Bamako today. We will do a bush camp once again. Our water is low, we will have to try and get some at one of the water wells

The women here all dress in beautifully colourful clothes. The Arabic dressing is not part of their culture. The children are well dressed. Girls wear tops and long skirts, the boys normally wear western dressing. What is strange is that you see men with shotguns on their shoulders and in their cars. This scares me, but Hans say they are hunters. I don’t know what they hunt.  I don’t see a living thing here, just beautiful green pastures, trees and magnificent mountains.

After 7 hours of driving, potholes and potholes, we are tired now. We must still do another 70 km to Kayes.

Bush camp and then we heard voices

Bush camp but washing must be done

We camped in the bush near Sadiola. Stephanus turned in at a small farm road through a quarry, behind ground heaps to find us a nice spot. Soon we heard voices, and we realised we were close to a village. Then a guy on a motor bike came down the cattle road. After him a friendly man, walking home, came to greet us. When a third man came from the opposite direction we knew the news had spread that we were there for the night. Soon we heard gun shots. Hans said they were hunters hunting in the late afternoon. Elisme was not so sure. She was on guard all night. The temperature went very high just when we went to bed, so sleep was out. The water bottle sprayer and fans were working the whole night. Thanks, Jaco and Helen, for introducing us to the water spray bottle.

While having our coffee,  Hans saw marks on the Landy’s back wheel. He immediately checked. The coil springs was out of its position, (Jak put it in as extra support). It had moved out of its mounting bracket. Stephanus and Coen checked. They jacked the Landy with the high lift jack and the wheel jack, removed the tyre, supporting the Landy with a big stone which Stephanus found. He had to carry it for 200m and it was big and heavy. Thanks Stephanus and Coen! Now they removed the wheel jack and Coen pushed the spring in with a tyre lever. Better BUSH MEHANICS you can’t get. Soon everything was packed back in and we were on our way. Hans was worried: “Why did it move out?” although we did a very bad road. He will see if they can tie the spring with something in their mountings, at Bamako.

Yesterday was a nightmare road; I don’t know what to call this one towards Kayes today, potholes to bury a vehicle in. Within the first 100 km Stephanus had counted 11 trucks and buses, turned over. We didn’t count how many broken down ones. Stephanus says he thinks about 20. The pictures will tell the story.  

The GPS, after a couple of days silence, decided to start giving information again. It was 3 o’clock and according to the GPS there was 390 km to go. The boys said they were going to try and reach Bamako. The road was now really a good one. Soon we got to a toll gate where we paid 500CFA. We didn’t mind paying for such a good road. You won’t believe it we, paid toll for the “Potholes” road, also 500CFA...

The bird life was a pleasure watching them

Catapillars visiting us, for the lack of game

At 5h30 Shahnaz said we must start looking for a suitable CAMP SITE. Bush camp was our destination again tonight. Mariana mentioned that the Kingfishers were so beautiful and colourful. We didn’t see any other game. although driving .along side the game park.

The area was beautiful, with trees and it was not so hot. This was the territory of the nomads. They are moving with their cattle, goats and donkeys to wherever they find grass. I am sure we will have visitors tonight.

Mariana as always was doing the most interesting canopies. She really can make them look so nice, you just want to eat them.Shanhaz was serving a nice noodle and bully beef dish to us. Everybody enjoyed it. We didn’t know “bully” can be so nice. Shanhaz you’re a star. Dates and lemon grass with liquorice end the meal.

Coen and Shanhaze having their morning coffee

The only strange noise we heard last night was a bird, it sounds like a human been. Hans assured Elisme it was a bird. The night was still hot but bearable. The mosquito’s was having a feast on Coen and Shanhaz while showered. Stephanus and Mariana were also part of the meal but less bitten. Hans and Elisme drown them in Tabard and Doom.After our normal morning ritual we were ready to leave. Al vehicles were fine. Coen is a little worried about the Cruiser it took 2 litre of water. He can’t see where it went, must be the terrible pothole road. Stop and drive the fuel consumption must be double to the normal.

 We before we reached the next village, we past 40 Donkey carts with people dressed in traditional clothes. They must be on their way to a celebration. They were so colourful. The trucks were just as many. Not far from the village

 Hans warned everybody of an accident in front of us. It was just people and trucks standing. When slowly passing. We could see it was a truck that bumped the Donkey cart from the road. The road was filled up with ground above the wetlands. So the Donkey Cart rolled quiet high. We could not see that anybody was injured, but then so many watches.

Bamako our first impression of it was part of a National Park. Beautiful big trees and lots of other vegetation. We followed the GPS to the Burkino Fasi embassy. We must apply for our visas. Coen phoned the SA Embassy they told us it was a  international holiday. We decided to start looking for a camping place. Just there the GPS went hay wire,  Daniel said “ hierdie Tannie was nog nie hier gewees " Next time more about. Bamako and the SLEEPING CAMEL.