Monday, October 24, 2011

Land Rover Fit -goodbye to Willem and Marjolein

15-10-2011 
Land Rover is fighting fit, we say goodbye to Willem and Marjolein and Libreville.
6 O’clock Hans made coffee, Elisme could see his now in a hurry. He wants to move on, after 21 days in Libreville, it is time to go.
Good bye to Gaya

Willem watching how we do our last packing in Libreville
Hans and Elisme had a lot to sort out; the Land Rover was totally in shambles after the Garage. Gaya helped very keenly; he even took the Split Peas from Elisme and through them in the plastic container.
Willem prepared them a breakfast on the patio. Rodger and Nadin sms they are on their way to Lambarene. Hans spoke to Nadin and said we will meet them there.
Willem took nice photos of Gaya Hans and Elisme. Then we were on our way words was difficult to say our thanks to Willem and Marjolein. We just made them promise they will come and visit us in 2012. Then we can treat them like KINGS..
There was no difference in traffic in Libreville this morning, the Blue, Red and green number plates had the right to do what they want. I understand that the BLUE number plates ar al Government employees?
We moved on quit easy this morning, no road block stopped us, may be its SATURDAY this time we past the equator quickly, no stopping, hopefully it was the last time. We are known in the South Hemisphere.
Nadin sms they are in Lambarene for lunch, Hans was 49 from there. They send us the coordinates where they are waiting for us.
The re-union was nice to see them after all our trying to meet up again. Hans and Rodger decided it is still early and we can move on to MOUILA to sleep there tonight.
Coen and Shanhaz report back they are in Angola at Barra do Dande that sounds like a nice beach. They had a nice swim and it sounds as if they are really enjoying their stay.
We meet Rodger and Nadin on the GPS coordinates they send us. Just for the records Rodger and Nadin are from SWITZERLAND, i don’t know why we thought they are from Sweden. So here we are with our SWISS friends. 
We drove to MOUILA, find a nice hotel LAC BLUE. 
We rent a room and so that we can shower and have a toilet, they were happy that we sleep in our vehicles. The lay out off Rodger and Nadin’s vehicle made us jealous. Rodger is a Carpenter and did it al by himself. Just look at the pictures. We want to send our Land Rover with him to renovate it to his.


Hans invited them for a drink, sitting at the swimming pool. We all had so many stories to share. They were on the same mudding roads to Mamfre, more trouble they had a Swiss couple with them in an Iveco. That was trouble they were stucked in every obstacle and Rodger with the Land Cruiser had to pull them out every time. They landed in a ditch or two and the guides had to dig them out. Their vehicle has the same damage as al our cars, the mud covers got hurt.
After a nice supper which Nadin prepared spaghetti bolognaise and Elisme contribute Goulash? We went to bed to leave early the next morning for the border crossing to Brazzaville Congo.
Sunday morning 17 October we left early the kilometres to the border Doussala Gabon. We got to Ndende to Police check and stamp in our Passports. 40 km further you get a red and white boom; there you stamp Carne and another stamp in your passport. We drove another 30 km in no man’s land to rich the smelly Brazzaville Congo border. This was quite a shock, coming from Gabon border which was spotless clean and then this.
Congo border post is Ngonog, first Gendarmerie, stamp then another office next to it. There was a guy in uniform he also stamped our passports. From there we went to the police he did all the paper work again and then stamped our passport for the 3 time, not finish yet. Now the immigration officer, very un friendly guy, he call us, asked for our entry forms. Nadin asked him where we were supposed to get then, he said from our tour leader, seeing that we are driving in a group. She said we are individuals and had no tour leader. Then he gave us a form from previous guys, to write all our details as from the form at the back. We got our 4 th stamp. The Passage the Carne had to be stamped at the next office. This guy wasn’t there. The officer with the uniform came by and said he will call him, after 15 min he arrived. Very friendly and sorry for not being there, he stamped with no questions.
We were in Brazzaville Congo the road immediately was bad,

after the rains, Lots of water holes and very slippery patches. Hans was driving in high range, and then we hit a bad spot he had to change to low range. The problem here was you couldn’t see what was in the water holes until you’re in them. 
After Ekok to Mumfe, no road ever will be TOO BAD for us. A tuck was stucked across the road .

As we came on the hill. Hans and Rodger had to manoeuvre through a small space next to the excavation, they managed. 5 km further the next 2 cars stucked, we could pass with 2 inches on both sides left between the 2 cars. This can’t be true, another 2 cars stucked behind each other, we passed easily.
Kigangou we stopped to show our document, the police man asked for a lift to Point Noir. Poor Rodger and Nadin had lot to explain why they can’t take this man.
Mila Mila was another police check point, again the police man asked for a lift. I wonder do they stop you just to get a lift.
The road was getting from bad to worse. Corrugations, mud ditches and water holes. We wanted to rich Dolisie before dark. Along the road we saw animals for the first in a long time, Dogs, cats, chickens, goats and 2 wild monkeys. The bird life is very active here in Brazzaville Congo, we saw, Eagles, Herons and Vultures.
Shanhaz explained to us how to get to the Catholic Mission St. Paul. Nadin asked for permission for us to rent a room and to then sleep in our cars. He gave us permission to park our cars under the Car ports. That was very nice; we were under roof and had a table to make our food. They gave us electricity for our fridges and kettle.
Elisme made RISSOTTO for us and Nadin helped. They had a lovely meal while Rodger were telling them of all his tours in South America and Indonesia. They are really world wise people, so interesting to talk to them. Soon we al went to bed, tomorrow along way.



Tuesday we woke up with church bells calling for the first mist. This was so nice to here and as Nadin said, it felt as if it was right next to her ears. The congregation sang so beautiful, that gave us a chance to say our thank for help of GOD. We can see his hand in every action we take.
We were surprise by the excellent condition of the road to point Noir, the Chinese build this road.


 They’re now building the bridges and that is only short 100m deviations. We reached the boat club where there are more over landers. They are all struggling with their either DRC or ANGOLA VISAS. Rodger and Nadin will stay at the boat club until they have their visas or ship their Land Cruiser either to Angola or Namibia.
We met PAUL and MARIA EBERHARD there, they have the same problems. Paul and Maria are staying in Jeffrey bay SA, Paul is German and Maria a South African.

Hans and Elisme said goodbye to all of them and moved on to the border. We find the Brazzaville Congo Officers very friendly and helpful her. At the Gendarmerie they checked all our visas and Passports, they then took us to the police and Duane. The officer took us to the station commander, he checked our Passage de Carne, he was satisfied. The officer stamped and completes it. Then immigration and health yellow cards check. The old man at immigration was very helpful he stamped our passports and the one with the Angola visa.
Cabina was a very well developed city, doesn’t look like the rest of Africa. The horizon on the sea, as far as the eye can see, there are oil boats. This is a very rich country.
We got to the Catholic Mission, they told us the father was not there but we can phone him. He said we must wait he is coming, after an hour he arrived. He gave us a room, it was flooded with water. The children cleaned it up and gave us toilet paper and soap. They kept on caring buckets of water to the room. That’s when we realise that there is no water for shower or toilet. We gave them a packet of sweet for each bucket; soon we had 10 buckets of water, enough to last for a week.
Mosquitoes are part of Africa, but I have never seen so many mosquitoes. Hans and Elisme were spraying all the time, but they were not scare of mosquito spray.
We had 2 minute noodles, then showered and of to bed. The children were still playing and shouting at the top of their voices. The teacher called them al and then we just heard him hitting them. I don’t know what they have done. I just know in South Africa that will never happened, no teacher is allowed to
Hans and Elisme left early for the border, only to find out that the border only opens at 8 am. The local People were very interested in our vehicle. Hans was explaining to all of them our journey from Morocco. Soon the police and Gendarmerie guys were also there to listen. By 7h30 the official came and said we can come with him, he was very helpful. He arranged for us to change money in his office and bought us airtime.  Hans went to customs to stamp our Carne de Passage and then we were on our way to the DRC border.
Hans asked the guy who changed our money, if he knows Mr. Blaise on the DRC side at immigration. He said he will call him for us. We parked and then went in at the police man al guiding the gate. They greeted us friendly asked for our passports and said they will take it to Mr. Blaise. The Police man said he gave it to Mr. Blaise and he will come and see us.
All the workers at immigration was so friendly, they said they were waiting for us, because our friends from South Africa told them about us. They just wanted to know why it took us so long.
Mr. Blaise said we must phone Mr. Thabo at the South African Embassy in Kinshasa, he will then phone the head of immigration and then he will instruct these officers to stamp our passports. Within an hour all our passports was stamped and we good go to customs.
Mr. Blaise walk with us, the officer their said his boss is not in his on his way. We waited patiently. Then Hans started talking with this officer, he was reading a French explanation dictionary. He said he is fluent in French. Hans explained how difficult French is for us.
Mr. Blaise asked the police to come and inspect our car, so that they can stamp and then we can leave. They asked for our Carne de Passage, Hans showed them where to stamp and signed, and it was done.
We just praised the Lord for giving Mr. Blaise to us, he can speak English and he is a Christian. He told us he leads the choir and his whole family sings in the choir.  We said our thanks and gave him one of our book marks.
The DRC we saw for the first time cattle grazing and very neat fencing off farms. We saw the busy building a hug dam, they are trying to develop the country. The bird life is more active and we saw two Crows fighting for life. That was so nice Hans slowed do and stop so that we can see who will be the winner. There was no winner at the end they just flow in different directions.
The road was a dirt road to Boma getting from good to bad to worse. The mighty Congo flows towards Boma, the Congo delta is very impressive.
The woman here carry stuff on their backs in a basket, we saw that before in Gabon and Brazzaville Congo. They don’t carry things on their heads anymore. Men are also caring stuff in the same baskets. Here we started seeing more motorbikes, then in Brazzaville.
On the road there are many trucks, coming and going. They must transport a lot off goods, to and from the border of Angola or the Port in Matari
As we decent the hill, there was a truck accident, three collided. We were stopped by the police no way to pass, here we going to sleep tonight. The cars were getting more and the people. They were all coming to our car very interested in our MAP on our car. Hans was once again explaining our trip. Some you could see just can understand where we were, never heard of these places, other were very informed. We waited for 2 hours then the traffic started to move, they have opened up a road pass the vehicles. Wonderful in Africa how they solve a problem. Bush mechanics herbal medicine when you have malaria and it works. They cut the grass fill up with shovels the holes and there the cars can go.
Our first view of Matari, this is the most beautiful town in West Africa that we have seen. The town was build from the Congo river in the mountains, this made a exquisite picture for the eye. They have an immaculate bridge crossing the Congo. Here we paid another toll gate, the cost per toll gate starts at 140$ to 2$ the 140$ I really don’t know it was pot holes and ditches, shacking everything loss in the vehicle. May be the need the money to build a decent road, so we gave it with a good heart and know never to complain about toll money in South Africa.
Hans said we must sleep in Matari seeing that it is now really getting late. He had a place called the SISTERS MISSIONARY, there is also a brothers Missionary but Overlanders recommended THE SISTERS. The GPS took us to the street then a local guy walked us to the entrance we would never found it has NO NAME.
 Sister M.......... made us feel at home, showing us the shower and the kitchen, and a plug from where we could get power. We had Potato Goulash and Banana salad went for a shower and then we sat on the veranda and listen to the SISTER CHOIR SINGING, which was so calming
Wednesday morning we left at 5 o’clock, we had to do 2 border crossings and it was a 3 hour drive at least to Luvo border. The road was very busy with big trucks coming and going, this was a good tar road and they drove at killing speed.
7 o’clock we arrived at the border to find that they only open at 8 o’clock. We waited there and watched the people arriving al on the same mission to cross the border. Some cars was allowed to cross, others had to wait. We figured out it has to do with their number plates, red once crossed.
8 o’clock the gate opened and we were told the “CHIEF’ wanted to see us, so we wait. This will be the second of a LONG DAY of waiting. We really got introduced to the WORKING SISTEMS OF Africa. Shall I rather say DEMOCRATIC REPUBLICK OF THE CONGO AND ANGOLA?
We came to the Immigration office after they have decided we can NOW come through, only to find that one of the officers is only opening the office now. Now officials were there yet. He took our passports and, took us to another stoop, told us too sit there and wait. One officer arrived soon after and could speak English; he said they are waiting for the ‘chief’ BUT THEY HAVE PHONED HIM. 9 O’CLOCK THEN THE Chiefs secretary a very pleasant old man arrived. He invited us to follow him to his office. The offices were totally in shambles, the one officer took away all the fills. He started writing in a book; one by one he was doing the information, tipex out start again. Then he said the “CHIEF’ will be here soon, he left him just when he went for a shower. 10 o’clock the chief arrived (9am working hour?) he called us in then he started phoning to find out WHAT/. Mr. Blaise the 2nd was there to translate; he said we must follow him, to another office.
Behind closed doors they were phoning, we were standing like school kids, against the walk. The First Officer came to offer us chairs, then Mr. Blaise and the other officer came out, saying no problem. We waited 11 o’clock we got our passports and was ready to leave, or as they say, ‘YOU ARE NOW FREE TO GO’
Angola Immigration as we arrive they helped us and asked for our passports. After a while they called us and said, they are waiting for the “CHIEF “ you stamp our passport. May be this time this one was on tea. After an hour he called Elisme asking questions in Portuguese or French. Then he called an officer who could speak a little English. He wanted to know where are we coming from and where are we going. Then he started phoning again. We met one of the immigration officers at DRC border. He came in and ask are we finishing with Duane. He couldn’t understand why are we still there,. Hans said we are waiting for our passport. Within 5 minutes we got our passports stamped, that was 13h00. At last we were on our way.
The first 60 km was horrific. 

Then a beautiful,Tar road to Tomboco. Jeff took us to the Missionary. The Father was very pleasant and made us feel at home. Hans needed some diesel and Jeff took him to his plant and gave him 20 litters off his own diesel. Can you believe in these days he didn’t want any money for it. Jeff is from South Africa and he knows Mpumalanga very well.

 We had couscous and cashew nut with chilli beef. Early shower and then to bed.
Next Time meeting our 4 partners again.

Sunday, October 23, 2011

13-10-2011 Land Rover getting on the road, Swiss meet up with us.


10-11-2011 LIBREVILLE  - WAITING FOR LAND ROVER PARTS.
10 October 2011 Monday Morning
Hans and Marjolein left early to the DHL offices at the airport to fetch the parcel with the parts for the LAND ROVERS CLUTCH. Hans was very excited to get it so that they can take it to the Garage, to fix the vehicle.
The traffic was horrendous! Hans got out at a point and walked to the Garage. Marjolein came   30 min later after conquering the traffic and finding parking.
The mechanic was very excited to open the parts parcel, he took one look and asked where the end ball bearing was. He was French; Hans could not understand what he was asking. His boss made a drawing with all the parts and part numbers. Hans realised that something is wrong. He took Hans to the Land Rover, which was now all apart; engine gear box and what more laying all over the place. This was heart breaking for Hans, but this was the way to go if the LAND ROVER PUMA’S CLUTCH had to be repaired. Hans saw it was the ball bearing he was referring to.
Hans broke out in cold sweat; he knew there was no way that the Land Rover was going to get fixed. The ball bearing, once again, must go through the same process, order from South African DHL and wait a week.
So here we are, stranded in LIBREVILLE. Hans and Elisme realised there was no way they can stay with Willem and Marjolein any longer. They must ask them to drop them at a Missionary to wait for the Land Rover to be fixed.
The Swiss, Rodger and Nadine texted that they are in Yoande, they have applied for their Gabon visas and will ONLY have them on Wednesday afternoon. Then they will apply for the Congo, that is a same day service, what they heard. So Friday they will leave for Libreville.
Elisme can’t understand why this is all happening, but being a Christian she knows and believes that GOD has a plan? We’ll wait and see.
Hans and Elisme had a round table with Willem and Marjolein, asking them to take them to a Missionary. They refused and said that they should stay with them until the Land Rover is sorted out and we can leave. They are such good hearted people. Nothing is too much for them. They never let us feel un-welcome and go the extra miles for us.
Willem took the drawing to the Garage and then the man admitted it was his mistake. What he doesn’t understand is that his mistake is costing us dearly.
Marjolein had a bad traffic day in Libreville today, she only went to the airport, Land Rover Garage and late afternoon to Camp De Gaulle and then to the vet with Isa. She spent 5 hours on the road. This is just an example of how much patience you need in this TRAFFIC.
Hans on his part, made contact with Joggle from CROSS COUNTRY in Johannesburg, South Africa. He said that he will get the part, by Tuesday 11 October; Hans must let him know where to send it to.  Hans remembered that Leon from Shell said that Jaco must come and replace him.  Hans made contact with Jaco coming from MOSSELBAAI in SA.  He flies to Johannesburg Tuesday and Wednesday to Gabon Libreville. He is willing to bring the part as long as they deliver the part to him in Johannesburg. Once again Louis was the one to do the rest of the contact and payment. This is now costing a pretty penny.
Sometimes in life you have to pay for other peoples mistakes and you don’t know why. 
Elisme prepared the Dinner for them - cottage pie and coleslaw with a bottle of wine. The day’s trouble was long forgotten.
The Gabon rain came down in buckets during the night. This time Hans and Elisme had no worries, they were safe in a house.
Coen, Shanhaz, Stephanus and Mariana are moving on. We received an email from them telling us all the news.
11 October 2011 Tuesday early morning
Marjolein and Elisme took Isa for a walk at Camp De Gaulle. This time it was a slipping and sliding walk, after all the rains last night. Isa is a very obedient dog, but this morning she just couldn’t resist the temptation of going after a CAT FISH in one of the little streams. Marjolein was giving her best to get her away, but she was having a “BALL” with this fish. The fish was clever and after a few summersaults, it just dove deep in the water and hid in the mud. Isa gave a last try, put her head deep in the water, but she is not a fish and couldn’t stay there for too long. She gave it up for a bad job and then returned to Marjolein, satisfied with her ball.
Next were the hundreds of Tick Birds.  Marjolein told her she was free to go and play with them. They just enjoyed this game, she chased them, they flew up and then 10 meters further they just sat and waited for Isa.  After an exhausting morning Isa needed a bath. Marjolein and Gaya did a nice job. Isa was delighted with the hosepipe (tried to bite the water). She is now so relaxed, sleeping peacefully with her clean body.
Louis reported back that he made contact with Joggie and that everything is under control. Louis we are so grateful for all your logistics in South Africa for this “DREAM OF OURS”. Just know we really appreciate all your effort.
Tuesday morning it was still raining Hans was now getting worried about the road conditions in the two Congo’s. Coen reported that the roads were poor and with the first rains it will turn into muddy mess. Coen phoned to say they had big problems at the DRC border; they didn’t want to accept the visas which were issued in Libreville. They insist the visas must be issued in your home country. I ask you now, how on earth must you do this? We came from Morocco, left SA 20 May 2011. They expect you to fly back to SA, get your Visa and then fly back. Just think of the expenses. Hans went to the Congolese Embassy this morning to try and get a transit visa. Maybe that will work. He will also put the problem to them, may be they can help; else he’ll have to get the SA Embassy to help.
The Swedish guys are trying to get their Passport back today and then do the Congo. Hopefully they will be on their way tomorrow.
Stephanus, Mariana, Coen and Shanhaz will try and cross the Angola border today. They will report back on how that went.
Marjolein has a birthday party this morning and tonight they have a writers’ club here in Libreville. All the Girls will come tonight and read the story they wrote. The topic doesn’t matter, Marjolein wrote a letter to the President of what she is experiencing in Gabon. Elisme will make fillings for wraps for the Girls.
Hans and Willem will go to the airport to meet with Jaco. Hans phoned him, he has the parcel from Joggie. Hopefully this is now all the parts.
The table was laid for the girls, everything ready. They arrived at 7h30pm and all were so enthusiastic about the evening. As all girl parties they chatter and chat everyone wants to tell their story. Rekha come back from here Children this afternoon and there was a lot to catch up from here in Gabon and also what she has experienced.
The members present to night is Andrea, Debbie, Marleina, Olivia, Rekha and Marjolein.
Marjolein decided on a wrap evening.
Elisme prepared a lovely spread for the Girls. As Shanhaz will say “just tug in and enjoy” I can promise they did.
Debbie had to be home at 10pm. She is teaching here at the American School. She started with her story, she was very positive about, how privilege she is in life. This was an excellent lesson, just to think when you feel negative about things, look at what ONE has.
Olivia was next and gave her experience with the LIBREVILLE POLICE, she is there
The table was laid for the girls, everything ready. They arrived at 7h30pm and all were so enthusiastic about the evening. As all girl parties they chatter and chat everyone wants to tell their story. Rekha come back from here Children this afternoon and there was a lot to catch up from here in Gabon and also what she has experienced.
The members present to night is Andrea, Debbie, Marleina, Olivia, Rekha and Marjolein.
Marjolein decided on a wrap evening.
Elisme prepared a lovely spread for the Girls. As Shanhaz will say “just tug in and enjoy” I can promise they did.
Debbie had to be home at 10pm. She is teaching here at the American School. She started with her story, she was very positive about, how privilege she is in life. This was an excellent lesson, just to think when you feel negative about things, look at what ONE has.
Olivia was next and gave her experience with the LIBREVILLE POLICE, she is their favourite to stop and ask her papers. They make a habit off it to drive off the head quarters with her papers; she has no choice but to follow them. The problem is if you’re a working girl and in a hurry to do your job, this is no fun. If you’re prepared to pay them some money, they’ll let you go. You never get a receipt for the amount you pay. So when really frustrated you pay
.
Marjolein wrote a letter to the President that was so good. Telling him what normal GABONIESE people has to live with very day. She ask him just be a normal citizen for one day.
Andrea was grateful for al the first things in her life. She really appreciates life and smell the roses every day.
Rekha just back from a holiday was telling her wonderful time with her father and children.
Marleina is busy telling her live story; she had a very interesting and full life up to know.
Hans and Willem went to the airport to fetch the part for the landy which is coming with Jaco.
Thursday Hans left early with a taxi to take the part to the Land Rover Garage. That was another story to tell, he got a taxi at 7 o’clock and arrived at the land Rover garage  9 o’clock, he says the taxi driver went to Ndjole and then to Lambarene and then came back, or this is what it felt like. At a time he was really scare they were right in the back streets, but he got there safe.
They promise to start on the Land Rover immediately and we hope to have it Friday afternoon.  The taxi back was an old man and very reliable, he even stopped at the ATM for Hans to draw money.
Lizelle come for Supper and Elisme prepared a Chicken with rice and a mixed salad. Marjolein came with Brazilian chocolates, which were to die for. After a nice cup of tea Marjolein and Elisme took her back. She is really a very interesting person who has been all over the world, nice to listen to what she has to tell.,
Friday morning Marjolein and Elisme took Isa for her regular walk, this time Coreen the French Lady next door joined us. She has a beautiful snow white Sheppard, mix with Canadian Wolfs. I have never seen such a beautiful dog. Coreen tried to speak English and the 3 of us had a lovely time. Elisme thinks if she had to stay here in Gabon for a year, she will be able to speak French, here very few people can speak English.
Willem phoned at 12 o’clock to say the Land Rover is ready, we can fetch it. Marjolein took us.
Hans and elisme were very excited to get the car. After all the feedback and paying a little fortune, we took the Land Rover. After Hans first change of gears he said” this car is not right” he drove around the block with all lanes bumper to bumper  with cars at an open up hill stand he turn the Land Rover in, testing the Low gears and the diff lock. He send Elisme to call Rifia the Land Rover Garage mechanic .  he came and Hans showed him no lights  are going on the dashboard to say its in diff lock.
The Land Rover had to go back to the Garage, the rule here is you are not allowed to see what they are doing in the work shop. So Hans and Elisme went for a cool drink at the Restuarant across the street. Hans phoned Wimpy in Nelspruit at Land rover who always works on the Landy. he explained what was going on. Wimpy had just more bad news, he says if the clutch is put in right and the gears are still hard to change, then the Denpen is out. This is a very technical job and these guys here needs special tools to do it, he is sure they will not be able to do it.
Hans and Elisme were now totally in Jam Street. The only way is to ship the car and fly back to SA. We have never prayed so hard to GOD to help. After the cool drink we went over to Land Rover, they called Hans. He went in the workshop, there was another Defender Puma, he told Rifia to feel this cars gears. Then he understood what Hans was saying. They worked for another hour on the Land Rover; Hans went to test the gears. He came back with a big smile he said they were now 100% but still no light on the dashboard. Rifia fond that the sensor was not working, they changed it and all was then working. After another 50$ just for the sensor, we left.
Hans went on a highway to test the gears everything was working perfect.
Marjolein is flying to SA tonight, Elisme made a true Italian Lasagne with a salad. They all enjoyed it with a bottle of SA wine. Elisme gave Marjolein a PLASTIC KETTLE and a MOROCIAN SCARF, we all had a good laugh. The plastic kettle is used for everything here in West Africa. Yesterday afternoon there was no water and Marjolein could not shower, Elisme had a plastic kettle i her bathroom, so she could shower. This is then that Elisme told Marjolein “never be without a plastic kettle in West Africa” now she has her plastic kettle and will always think of Elisme.
Tomorrow Hans and Elisme will be on their way to the Congo and may be meet up with the Swiss Rodger and Nadin.
Next time the Congo.
 io the Congo and may be meet up with the Swedish Rodger and Nadin.
Next time the Congo.

Tuesday, October 11, 2011

30-09-2011 Libreville

30-09-2011 Libreville – Lambarene-Omboue Gabon
 Friday 30 September 2011

The Boys worked hard on the paper war that finally fell into place.  First they worked on the Republic of Congo Visas.  With that in hand, they went to DRC, Congo.  While this was in process they made contact with Anglo (they have visas for Anglo but need a multi entry), just to find out they need a vehicle entry permit for the Republic of Congo. That costs another 30 000CFA [R500]. They were told this visa will take 7 days. With lots of charm and pleading the girl working with it said they can fetch it the same afternoon. They were very lucky.  Now with all the official documents in hand they can relax.
The route they want to take goes through the oil fields of shell. For that they need permits. Willem helped them to get all the information on the petit Loanga national park.  Willem really went out of his way to assist them with all the information. Nothing was too much for him. He got the information, quotes and then came to discuss it with them. 
The Boys had a round table on this. They decided, although it is very expensive, they really want to see this.  We can’t come this far and not see the beauty of Gabon. Coen’s vehicle permit had the wrong information on, that couldn’t be crossed out, signed and stamped. They had to do it all over again. Coen was working on his vehicle, replacing the brake pads.  Jimmy offered to take Shanhaz to fetch it.  Elisme went with to draw money.  That we do at one of the best hotels in Gabon. The price per night in this hotel is 130 000CFA {R2600} per night and it is fully booked every night. There must be very rich people in Gabon. We all used the time to relax and sort ourselves out for the rest of the trip.
Friday evening Jimmy invited Willem, Marjolein and an American couple, Erich and Lizelle, to join us for Dinner at sun set beach. We arrived there 5 minutes before sunset.


The waves were high and came right up to the restaurant’s glass palisade. This was the closest to the water we ever had dinner. It was a rustic restaurant with lots of character. The evening was very pleasant. The American couple were such easy going people. Lizelle is from Cape Town and could still speak Afrikaans. It was lovely hearing our mother tong here in Libreville. Soon another man came to our table and spoke Afrikaans to us. He is a South African attorney working for an oil company here. Erich is an Engineer working for another oil company.  His company is constantly prospecting for new oil sources. They just found very strong oil in Ghana.

Our Dutch friends Willem and Marjolein are so impressed with South Africa; they want to retire there. Hans and Elisme hope to assist them to find a lovely home for them in South Africa. They have been to so many countries in Africa and abroad. They really know the world. So for South Africa it must be a compliment.  Willem’s knowledge of Gabon was of so much help for the boys. His help with the Garage to get the vehicles sorted was much appreciated.
Mariana was mentioning it, how kind Willem and Marjolein are. They don’t know Coen and Shanhaz by a bar of soap, yet they took them in their house and treated them like royalty. They invited all of us for Supper at their house on Wednesday evening. They went out of their way to make us feel at home. They prepared a Delicious meal for us, with the best wines and French Champagne. We really learn so many lessons, here in Africa. As Mariana said, we must go and practice what they have taught us. 
The suburbs we drove through to Sun set Beach are very up market. On this road is The President Beach house where he and his French wife stay. As we drove past, police and gendarmerie soldiers, al armed with guns were standing. Jimmy said that means the President is in transit, either on his way home or on his way out. In Libreville you’ll often find this alongside the roads. That depends where the President is going.
Gabon is hosting the Africa Soccer World Cup next year. They are building new soccer stadiums. 

They are reaping the bush, these trucks carry the tree trunks to Libreville.
There is one stadium in town that they stopped building because they realised they were not going to finish in time. What they are going to do about some of the roads, is a question. The contrast in roads here are big; some are in superb conditions and others, potholes and mud.
More Potholes in Libreville
The building alongside the beach road is impressive, very well maintained. They don’t paint the outside of buildings, they tile them. This building process is because of the high humidity. I must say it’s very expensive. The one building has got exquisite parrots on the length of the building, all in tiles. The other building is in the shape of a ship.
The Ship building in Libreville      
I took pictures from the view of Jimmy’s apartment.  What do I see; a modern building in a superb condition, where an ambassador stays. Then a half built building with grass growing inside, and shacks?
Saturday morning 1 October 
Jimmy took us on a site seeing trip. We saw the most beautiful Forest, Allons Decouviri. Inside the forest there are hiking trails. We all wanted to walk them but with the rain still falling softly, we couldn’t.
The road was in a very bad condition; Jimmy had to drive very carefully to miss the pot holes. Cape Esteria is a long beach with many little establishments. Blondine beach was one of them. Jimmy stopped at Blondine beach, this was a real little jewel during the French era.  There is no maintenance to the buildings just debris and the decay of the buildings. The beach line is covered with tree trunks coming from the sea. They transport the tree trunks by barges, some they tie together and throw them in the river. Some never get to their destination and die a silent death here on the beach.
The light house is not in use any more but the building is still surviving. The rocks here are very interesting, they are rough with sharp edges, and they have small little pools with lots of little fish. The fish are waiting for high tide to get back in the waves again.
Mariana and Elisme preparing supper.
Jimmy took us to another beach picnic spot; the French Army is keeping it for their employees. There are “lapas” with benches and tables, all overlooking the sea. You can have a barbeque here. Jimmy sayai they spent many nice days here; this can be a lonely place, with no family here. The expats try to make it liveable for each other. We outsiders think this must be so nice to work here. Hans used to work in Africa. He knows how lonely this can get. They all do it for their families, the money is normally good. I really hope their families appreciate what they are doing and missing out on a normal family life.
Saturday evening the soft rain continued. Mariana suggested we bake pancakes with a fish and meat filling. Jimmy asked for some of Elisme’s fish soup with prawns again. This time Elisme decided to do LOUIS BISQUE. Everybody really enjoyed it, Coen and Shanhaz went for seconds. Then the left-over’s Elisme put in Tupper for Jimmy for Sunday.
The Erfgeldvreters (The Inheritance Gobblers) left early Sunday morning, after saying their thanks to Jimmy. Words can’t thank him enough for what he has done for them. He left no stone unturned to make it a very pleasant stay at Libreville. He took us out of town on the Lambarene road.
Pigmy and Mariana eventually got him away.
Elisme had a wee break; this was her MOST EMBARRASING MOMENT. She thought she was safe behind the car, just to here Hans saying at the top of his voice, the PIGMY MAN is coming to the back. Mariana stepped right in front of him and did not allow him to pass, and then Coen came from the other side with the car and Stephanus out off the bush. What was there to do, no HALF WAY STOP? Everybody gets their turn for the MOST EMBARRASSING MOMENT.
Lambarene the Albert Schweitzer statue.
Lambarene
As we entered Lambarene, Coen said he must fill up with petrol. He said his car is getting hot again. Hans wanted to move the Landy but it wouldn’t go into gear. After a while it went into gear, Coen said they must do the MAKE OR BRAKE TEST.
Put the car in first gear and let go off the clutch, it pulled the car nearly dead. So there was no problem with the Landy. Coen’s radiator was leaking water again. Hans had some Pratley Steel. They sealed it and after a while we were on our way again.
40 km from Lambarene we stopped at a fresh water well. Everybody was getting water, when we wanted to leave, the Landy had no clutch. Hans phoned Willem; he suggested that we go back to Lambarene. The French Army had a training exercise there. He will talk to the Commander and ask them to look at the Land Rover. They drive Land Rovers.
Just here was PAY BACK TIME.  Stephanus, with the Cruiser, had to tow the Land Rover. 
There the Land Cruiser is going with the Land Rover
We all remembered the 360 km that the Land Rover pulled the Cruiser. Mariana just said this is going to be a nightmare drive for us. This time it was hilly and potholes and bends in the road.
Coen went ahead to get the French guys and arrange a place to sleep. The rain was constantly coming down. Hans was soaking wet.
Bush meat sold along side the road,; Monkey for Supper
Stephanus really did an excellent job of towing the Landy. We thought he was an old hand in towing vehicles. Maybe he hides his talents. 
Coen lead us into the French base. The commander there was very helpful. He got his technicians to come and check out the Land Rover. They couldn’t do much; they just gave us the Land Rover agency in Libreville’s nr. They said this is the only place here that will be able to work on the land Rover. Hans is driving a Land Rover Defender Puma. This is a complicated engine. No bush mechanic can work on this.
Shanhaz found us a nice place to sleep at the Catholic Missionary and school. They had rooms and a kitchen available for us. We also had hot water showers. Shanhaz prepared us all a nice hot meal. Hans supplied everybody with a whisky or brandy. He thought tonight this is what we needed.
We all had a round table meeting. Hans knew this is going to take time fixing the Land Rover. There was no use for everybody to go back to Libreville. Hans suggested that Stephanus tow him back to Libreville. When they get back Coen, Shanhaz, Stephanus and Mariana went on with the plan to visit Omboue. That will give Hans time to fix the Land Rover.
The next morning we left as planned. Stephanus and Coen in the Cruiser towing the Land Rover, This will be a tough 230km. The conditions were the same the last 50 km. Then the city, Willem arranged to meet us at a crossing they know. Once again Stephanus was really such a good driver; there was a play on the shackle. Coen told Hans what was coming and when to brake. This was a very tiring journey for everyone. Stephanus we really appreciate your effort!
Willem drove them to the Land Rover agency, controlling the traffic. He was just so in control of the situation. This is difficult to describe, the traffic is bumper to bumper, 2 lanes but 4 rows of cars coming in. No parking and the Cruiser and Land rover must take a wide turn to get in to the work shop. Willem and Coen managed to stop the cars and NOBODY EVEN BLEW THEIR HORNS. Once in the workshop, that is under roof,  the Land Rover was too high to get insto the work shop, 2 Range Rovers had to be removed to get the Cruiser and Landy in. Once in, the Cruiser must come past the Land Rover to get out. This was manoeuvring this way and pushing the Landy that way, and eventually the Cruiser was out.
Stephanus and Coen were in a hurry to go back. Hans and Elisme were very sad to say goodbye, but what must be done must be done.
Willem took us across the street to a very nice little Restaurant. This is one of the places that looked like nothing but once you enter, it takes your breath away. The place was big and had many tables, with business men all having their lunch there. They have a menu of the day for 8 000CFA {R120} this is a 4 course meal. Elisme has never seen a salad bar like this. Stuffed egg, avo ritz, mayonnaise, calamari and then every salad you can think off. The main dish was a choice of fish, lamb or goat. The way they serve their food, makes you want to eat. This Restaurant is owned by a Lebanese man, he knows how to treat his clients. Willem says he owns the Restaurant at the Golf club. He works 7 days a week and both his Restaurants are very successful. I can see why.
Jimmy joined us for lunch; he had a tough day, hearings and lots of work stress. Willem insisted that we stay with them, till the Land Rover is sorted. The problem is that they have no parts here in Gabon; the parts must come from South Africa. The Land rover Garage will only be able to see exactly what parts they need tomorrow, Tuesday 4 October.  

The flowers on their Patio is so beautiful
Willem and Marjolein went out of their way to make us feel at home. We have our own apartment, with bathroom, study and bedroom. They have their own main en- suite bedroom on the other side of the lounge and dining room. The internet is on the whole day, this makes it so easy for Hans. Once Don (this is his contact person in Cape Town SA} responds Hans gets the mail immediately.
Don reported this morning, he has ordered the parts from London UK. He expects it to be in SA Thursday. Then he’ll DHL it to Libreville Gabon, this will take 48 hours, arrival time Saturday evening.  Hopefully the garage can start working on it on Monday and Tuesday.  We plan to be on the road again Wednesday, 12 October. The problem is we must be out of Anglo on 24 October. That will be a tight schedule to pass the 2 Congo’s and be out of Angola.
The 2 Swedish friends made contact with us again. They are now in Cameroon fighting the bad roads. They will do their best to catch up with Hans and Elisme to join them through the Congo’s and then to South Africa. They still have to get their Gabon, Congo’s and Angola Visas. That will take time, but we’ll see how it goes.
Meanwhile Coen, Shanhaz, Stephanus and Mariana reached Omboue. Shanhaz reported that the road is so corrugated that any milk will turn in to butter on this road. Franzille from the hotel met them in town and took them to the hotel. They arrived at the hotel long after dark.
Jimmy fair well supper, he is going to South Africa for 2 weeks. Hans and Elisme are so greatfull to him for the support.
Elisme offered to make Supper, Turkey with celery a béchamel mushroom sauce and pasta layers. Jimmy came for Supper, today was a better day for him, and his month end problems are getting sorted.
Willem and Marjolein insist that we stay with them till the Land Rover is on the road again. They are really people with such good hearts. Willems says this is how DUTCH people are. I don’t know, I just know they are ANGELS. Jimmy was once again offering that we come and stay at his place. He is flying to South Africa Friday and his apartment is available for us. Willem and Marjolein don’t want to hear a word of that.
So Hans and Elisme will never know how to thank these 3 people. They wanted to stay in a Missionary; this was just wiped from the table. Here we are staying like ROYALTY with new found friends. We can just thank GOD for sending them on our way.
Wednesday the Army has a sport afternoon, Willem played volley ball and then the 4 of us went out for lunch to that quant little Restaurant again. The owner was really glad to see Willem and Marjolein, they are much appreciated clients. Today the 2 Boys had the Menu of the day, again 4 courses. Marjolein and Elisme ordered a prawn and Calamari Banana leave basket. This is a starter but it is so much you just can’t eat anymore. Marjolein and Elisme were speculating on the recipe, it had and exquisite taste, Indonesian. Coriander, celery and oyster sauce was definitely part of it.  After a lovely nourishing meal we went to one of their Super Marche. Elisme needed some chick peas and fresh herbs for the ‘DUTCH ERTEN SOUP”.
Willem had to see the Manager there; he was finished and waited in the car for us. A Gabonese man wanted to park next to Willem. He scratched Willems car. Can you believe he denies it, as Willem got out of the car he showed him his car’s paint and he saw it happening. Willem called the French and Gabonese Police. This was a commotion of another world.
Marjolein and Elisme went for a cool drink across the street. The Boys sorted it out and we could go. The Gabonese must report to the Police tomorrow morning. Clearly they do have systems in place here in Gabon.
Willem and Marjolein have a dinner appointment with the General. Marjolein is looking so nice in her favourite colour, red. Anna, her Brazilian friend, made her a beautiful Red necklace with a stunning red drop. This compliments her outfit.
Anna is taking part in an upliftment program with the Americans to teach the Gabonese to do their own little business. She shows them how to make jewellery.
The expats wivess are all involved in different things. They go to gym and meet at the sport grounds to walk their dogs. They also do training with their dogs. Marjolein’s dog, Ischa, is a trained German Sheppard. I have never seen such a disciplined dog.
My name is Isa and I am a price winning Dog.
She keeps her ball in her beck and brings it back to Marjolein. She loves swimming, when we get close to the Lilly ponds Marjolein throws her ball in the water; she just dives in to fetch it. 
Then Marjolein tells her to shake herself, you just see water flying.

Friday Evening the DISCO EVENING

Willem in his uniform watching Marjolein getting ready.

Purple nails will be the thing for the Disco

Then the Dico Party Willem and Marjolein dressed up. they surely are going to win the price
Saturday we all just had a lovely day at Willem and Marjoleins house. The bird on the Patio came to say hello and the baby lizard took a view from the tree
Small Lizard came out for a little sun light
Birds nest on the Patio
Hans was following on the DHL WEBSITE FOR THE PARTS TO ARRIVE. by 9 pm. the parts was in Libreville.
Sunday morning Willem took us on a site seeing trip of Libreville, we stop for a drink at a Beach Hotel. people were bathing and enjoying Sunday Brunch.

Beach hotel we having drinks
The the parts arrive with ONE PART MISSING. 
Next time the final fixing story of the Land Rover