30-09-2011 Libreville

30-09-2011 Libreville – Lambarene-Omboue Gabon

 Friday 30 September 2011

The Boys worked hard on the paper war that finally fell into place.  First they worked on the Republic of Congo Visas.  With that in hand, they went to DRC, Congo.  While this was in process they made contact with Anglo (they have visas for Anglo but need a multi entry), just to find out they need a vehicle entry permit for the Republic of Congo. That costs another 30 000CFA [R500]. They were told this visa will take 7 days. With lots of charm and pleading the girl working with it said they can fetch it the same afternoon. They were very lucky.  Now with all the official documents in hand they can relax.

The route they want to take goes through the oil fields of shell. For that they need permits. Willem helped them to get all the information on the petit Loanga national park.  Willem really went out of his way to assist them with all the information. Nothing was too much for him. He got the information, quotes and then came to discuss it with them. 

The Boys had a round table on this. They decided, although it is very expensive, they really want to see this.  We can’t come this far and not see the beauty of Gabon. Coen’s vehicle permit had the wrong information on, that couldn’t be crossed out, signed and stamped. They had to do it all over again. Coen was working on his vehicle, replacing the brake pads.  Jimmy offered to take Shanhaz to fetch it.  Elisme went with to draw money.  That we do at one of the best hotels in Gabon. The price per night in this hotel is 130 000CFA {R2600} per night and it is fully booked every night. There must be very rich people in Gabon. We all used the time to relax and sort ourselves out for the rest of the trip.

Friday evening Jimmy invited Willem, Marjolein and an American couple, Erich and Lizelle, to join us for Dinner at sun set beach. We arrived there 5 minutes before sunset.

The waves were high and came right up to the restaurant’s glass palisade. This was the closest to the water we ever had dinner. It was a rustic restaurant with lots of character. The evening was very pleasant. The American couple were such easy going people. Lizelle is from Cape Town and could still speak Afrikaans. It was lovely hearing our mother tong here in Libreville. Soon another man came to our table and spoke Afrikaans to us. He is a South African attorney working for an oil company here. Erich is an Engineer working for another oil company.  His company is constantly prospecting for new oil sources. They just found very strong oil in Ghana.

Our Dutch friends Willem and Marjolein are so impressed with South Africa; they want to retire there. Hans and Elisme hope to assist them to find a lovely home for them in South Africa. They have been to so many countries in Africa and abroad. They really know the world. So for South Africa it must be a compliment.  Willem’s knowledge of Gabon was of so much help for the boys. His help with the Garage to get the vehicles sorted was much appreciated.

Mariana was mentioning it, how kind Willem and Marjolein are. They don’t know Coen and Shanhaz by a bar of soap, yet they took them in their house and treated them like royalty. They invited all of us for Supper at their house on Wednesday evening. They went out of their way to make us feel at home. They prepared a Delicious meal for us, with the best wines and French Champagne. We really learn so many lessons, here in Africa. As Mariana said, we must go and practice what they have taught us. 

The suburbs we drove through to Sun set Beach are very up market. On this road is The President Beach house where he and his French wife stay. As we drove past, police and gendarmerie soldiers, al armed with guns were standing. Jimmy said that means the President is in transit, either on his way home or on his way out. In Libreville you’ll often find this alongside the roads. That depends where the President is going.

Gabon is hosting the Africa Soccer World Cup next year. They are building new soccer stadiums. 

They are reaping the bush, these trucks carry the tree trunks to Libreville.

There is one stadium in town that they stopped building because they realised they were not going to finish in time. What they are going to do about some of the roads, is a question. The contrast in roads here are big; some are in superb conditions and others, potholes and mud.

More Potholes in Libreville

The building alongside the beach road is impressive, very well maintained. They don’t paint the outside of buildings, they tile them. This building process is because of the high humidity. I must say it’s very expensive. The one building has got exquisite parrots on the length of the building, all in tiles. The other building is in the shape of a ship.

The Ship building in Libreville

 

 

 

 

 

 

I took pictures from the view of Jimmy’s apartment.  What do I see; a modern building in a superb condition, where an ambassador stays. Then a half built building with grass growing inside, and shacks?

Saturday morning 1 October 

Jimmy took us on a site seeing trip. We saw the most beautiful Forest, Allons Decouviri. Inside the forest there are hiking trails. We all wanted to walk them but with the rain still falling softly, we couldn’t.

The road was in a very bad condition; Jimmy had to drive very carefully to miss the pot holes. Cape Esteria is a long beach with many little establishments. Blondine beach was one of them. Jimmy stopped at Blondine beach, this was a real little jewel during the French era.  There is no maintenance to the buildings just debris and the decay of the buildings. The beach line is covered with tree trunks coming from the sea. They transport the tree trunks by barges, some they tie together and throw them in the river. Some never get to their destination and die a silent death here on the beach.

The light house is not in use any more but the building is still surviving. The rocks here are very interesting, they are rough with sharp edges, and they have small little pools with lots of little fish. The fish are waiting for high tide to get back in the waves again.

Mariana and Elisme preparing supper.

Jimmy took us to another beach picnic spot; the French Army is keeping it for their employees. There are “lapas” with benches and tables, all overlooking the sea. You can have a barbeque here. Jimmy sayai they spent many nice days here; this can be a lonely place, with no family here. The expats try to make it liveable for each other. We outsiders think this must be so nice to work here. Hans used to work in Africa. He knows how lonely this can get. They all do it for their families, the money is normally good. I really hope their families appreciate what they are doing and missing out on a normal family life.

Saturday evening the soft rain continued. Mariana suggested we bake pancakes with a fish and meat filling. Jimmy asked for some of Elisme’s fish soup with prawns again. This time Elisme decided to do LOUIS BISQUE. Everybody really enjoyed it, Coen and Shanhaz went for seconds. Then the left-over’s Elisme put in Tupper for Jimmy for Sunday.

The Erfgeldvreters (The Inheritance Gobblers) left early Sunday morning, after saying their thanks to Jimmy. Words can’t thank him enough for what he has done for them. He left no stone unturned to make it a very pleasant stay at Libreville. He took us out of town on the Lambarene road.

Pigmy and Mariana eventually got him away.

Elisme had a wee break; this was her MOST EMBARRASING MOMENT. She thought she was safe behind the car, just to here Hans saying at the top of his voice, the PIGMY MAN is coming to the back. Mariana stepped right in front of him and did not allow him to pass, and then Coen came from the other side with the car and Stephanus out off the bush. What was there to do, no HALF WAY STOP? Everybody gets their turn for the MOST EMBARRASSING MOMENT.

Lambarene the Albert Schweitzer statue.

Lambarene

As we entered Lambarene, Coen said he must fill up with petrol. He said his car is getting hot again. Hans wanted to move the Landy but it wouldn’t go into gear. After a while it went into gear, Coen said they must do the MAKE OR BRAKE TEST.
Put the car in first gear and let go off the clutch, it pulled the car nearly dead. So there was no problem with the Landy. Coen’s radiator was leaking water again. Hans had some Pratley Steel. They sealed it and after a while we were on our way again.

40 km from Lambarene we stopped at a fresh water well. Everybody was getting water, when we wanted to leave, the Landy had no clutch. Hans phoned Willem; he suggested that we go back to Lambarene. The French Army had a training exercise there. He will talk to the Commander and ask them to look at the Land Rover. They drive Land Rovers.

Just here was PAY BACK TIME.  Stephanus, with the Cruiser, had to tow the Land Rover. 

There the Land Cruiser is going with the Land Rover

We all remembered the 360 km that the Land Rover pulled the Cruiser. Mariana just said this is going to be a nightmare drive for us. This time it was hilly and potholes and bends in the road.

Coen went ahead to get the French guys and arrange a place to sleep. The rain was constantly coming down. Hans was soaking wet.

Bush meat sold along side the road,; Monkey for Supper

Stephanus really did an excellent job of towing the Landy. We thought he was an old hand in towing vehicles. Maybe he hides his talents. 

Coen lead us into the French base. The commander there was very helpful. He got his technicians to come and check out the Land Rover. They couldn’t do much; they just gave us the Land Rover agency in Libreville’s nr. They said this is the only place here that will be able to work on the land Rover. Hans is driving a Land Rover Defender Puma. This is a complicated engine. No bush mechanic can work on this.

Shanhaz found us a nice place to sleep at the Catholic Missionary and school. They had rooms and a kitchen available for us. We also had hot water showers. Shanhaz prepared us all a nice hot meal. Hans supplied everybody with a whisky or brandy. He thought tonight this is what we needed.

We all had a round table meeting. Hans knew this is going to take time fixing the Land Rover. There was no use for everybody to go back to Libreville. Hans suggested that Stephanus tow him back to Libreville. When they get back Coen, Shanhaz, Stephanus and Mariana went on with the plan to visit Omboue. That will give Hans time to fix the Land Rover.

The next morning we left as planned. Stephanus and Coen in the Cruiser towing the Land Rover, This will be a tough 230km. The conditions were the same the last 50 km. Then the city, Willem arranged to meet us at a crossing they know. Once again Stephanus was really such a good driver; there was a play on the shackle. Coen told Hans what was coming and when to brake. This was a very tiring journey for everyone. Stephanus we really appreciate your effort!

Willem drove them to the Land Rover agency, controlling the traffic. He was just so in control of the situation. This is difficult to describe, the traffic is bumper to bumper, 2 lanes but 4 rows of cars coming in. No parking and the Cruiser and Land rover must take a wide turn to get in to the work shop. Willem and Coen managed to stop the cars and NOBODY EVEN BLEW THEIR HORNS. Once in the workshop, that is under roof,  the Land Rover was too high to get insto the work shop, 2 Range Rovers had to be removed to get the Cruiser and Landy in. Once in, the Cruiser must come past the Land Rover to get out. This was manoeuvring this way and pushing the Landy that way, and eventually the Cruiser was out.

Stephanus and Coen were in a hurry to go back. Hans and Elisme were very sad to say goodbye, but what must be done must be done.

Willem took us across the street to a very nice little Restaurant. This is one of the places that looked like nothing but once you enter, it takes your breath away. The place was big and had many tables, with business men all having their lunch there. They have a menu of the day for 8 000CFA {R120} this is a 4 course meal. Elisme has never seen a salad bar like this. Stuffed egg, avo ritz, mayonnaise, calamari and then every salad you can think off. The main dish was a choice of fish, lamb or goat. The way they serve their food, makes you want to eat. This Restaurant is owned by a Lebanese man, he knows how to treat his clients. Willem says he owns the Restaurant at the Golf club. He works 7 days a week and both his Restaurants are very successful. I can see why.

Jimmy joined us for lunch; he had a tough day, hearings and lots of work stress. Willem insisted that we stay with them, till the Land Rover is sorted. The problem is that they have no parts here in Gabon; the parts must come from South Africa. The Land rover Garage will only be able to see exactly what parts they need tomorrow, Tuesday 4 October.  

The flowers on their Patio is so beautiful

Willem and Marjolein went out of their way to make us feel at home. We have our own apartment, with bathroom, study and bedroom. They have their own main en- suite bedroom on the other side of the lounge and dining room. The internet is on the whole day, this makes it so easy for Hans. Once Don (this is his contact person in Cape Town SA} responds Hans gets the mail immediately.

Don reported this morning, he has ordered the parts from London UK. He expects it to be in SA Thursday. Then he’ll DHL it to Libreville Gabon, this will take 48 hours, arrival time Saturday evening.  Hopefully the garage can start working on it on Monday and Tuesday.  We plan to be on the road again Wednesday, 12 October. The problem is we must be out of Anglo on 24 October. That will be a tight schedule to pass the 2 Congo’s and be out of Angola.

The 2 Swedish friends made contact with us again. They are now in Cameroon fighting the bad roads. They will do their best to catch up with Hans and Elisme to join them through the Congo’s and then to South Africa. They still have to get their Gabon, Congo’s and Angola Visas. That will take time, but we’ll see how it goes.

Meanwhile Coen, Shanhaz, Stephanus and Mariana reached Omboue. Shanhaz reported that the road is so corrugated that any milk will turn in to butter on this road. Franzille from the hotel met them in town and took them to the hotel. They arrived at the hotel long after dark.

Jimmy fair well supper, he is going to South Africa for 2 weeks. Hans and Elisme are so greatfull to him for the support.

Elisme offered to make Supper, Turkey with celery a béchamel mushroom sauce and pasta layers. Jimmy came for Supper, today was a better day for him, and his month end problems are getting sorted.

Willem and Marjolein insist that we stay with them till the Land Rover is on the road again. They are really people with such good hearts. Willems says this is how DUTCH people are. I don’t know, I just know they are ANGELS. Jimmy was once again offering that we come and stay at his place. He is flying to South Africa Friday and his apartment is available for us. Willem and Marjolein don’t want to hear a word of that.

So Hans and Elisme will never know how to thank these 3 people. They wanted to stay in a Missionary; this was just wiped from the table. Here we are staying like ROYALTY with new found friends. We can just thank GOD for sending them on our way.

Wednesday the Army has a sport afternoon, Willem played volley ball and then the 4 of us went out for lunch to that quant little Restaurant again. The owner was really glad to see Willem and Marjolein, they are much appreciated clients. Today the 2 Boys had the Menu of the day, again 4 courses. Marjolein and Elisme ordered a prawn and Calamari Banana leave basket. This is a starter but it is so much you just can’t eat anymore. Marjolein and Elisme were speculating on the recipe, it had and exquisite taste, Indonesian. Coriander, celery and oyster sauce was definitely part of it.  After a lovely nourishing meal we went to one of their Super Marche. Elisme needed some chick peas and fresh herbs for the ‘DUTCH ERTEN SOUP”.

Willem had to see the Manager there; he was finished and waited in the car for us. A Gabonese man wanted to park next to Willem. He scratched Willems car. Can you believe he denies it, as Willem got out of the car he showed him his car’s paint and he saw it happening. Willem called the French and Gabonese Police. This was a commotion of another world.

Marjolein and Elisme went for a cool drink across the street. The Boys sorted it out and we could go. The Gabonese must report to the Police tomorrow morning. Clearly they do have systems in place here in Gabon.

Willem and Marjolein have a dinner appointment with the General. Marjolein is looking so nice in her favourite colour, red. Anna, her Brazilian friend, made her a beautiful Red necklace with a stunning red drop. This compliments her outfit.

Anna is taking part in an upliftment program with the Americans to teach the Gabonese to do their own little business. She shows them how to make jewellery.

The expats wivess are all involved in different things. They go to gym and meet at the sport grounds to walk their dogs. They also do training with their dogs. Marjolein’s dog, Ischa, is a trained German Sheppard. I have never seen such a disciplined dog.

My name is Isa and I am a price winning Dog.

She keeps her ball in her beck and brings it back to Marjolein. She loves swimming, when we get close to the Lilly ponds Marjolein throws her ball in the water; she just dives in to fetch it. 
Then Marjolein tells her to shake herself, you just see water flying.

Friday Evening the DISCO EVENING

Willem in his uniform watching Marjolein getting ready.

Purple nails will be the thing for the Disco

Then the Dico Party Willem and Marjolein dressed up. they surely are going to win the price

Saturday we all just had a lovely day at Willem and Marjoleins house. The bird on the Patio came to say hello and the baby lizard took a view from the tree

Small Lizard came out for a little sun light

Birds nest on the Patio

Hans was following on the DHL WEBSITE FOR THE PARTS TO ARRIVE. by 9 pm. the parts was in Libreville.
Sunday morning Willem took us on a site seeing trip of Libreville, we stop for a drink at a Beach Hotel. people were bathing and enjoying Sunday Brunch.

Beach hotel we having drinks

The the parts arrive with ONE PART MISSING. 
Next time the final fixing story of the Land Rover