10 July 2011 Sunday morning we left Delfat camp for Marrekesh, to cross the Atlas Mountains on a 4x4 route.
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| Delfat camp at the Atlas Mountains |
Nearly each mountain had a Kasbah or fortified town from the previous centuries seeming to come out of the rocks. Again the new buildings form part of it. Ibis birds are making their nests in the minarets of the Mosques.
We pass the valley of Roses but we didnt see any roses, except Celons roses. They get rose oil here too.
The 4x4 track which is to our surprise a narrow tar road, winds up and down the hills, with very sharp turns.
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| One of the many Kashbah on route |
Berbers are farming here with their sheep. They move with them, staying in small white tents or in caves in the mountains. We saw kraals packed with stones round a mountain. That must be for their sheep. I can’t think how long it took them to pack that wall.
Shahnhaz read on the internet of the woman getting Argan oil out of the argan nuts. They then manufacture it into different products, for body cosmetic and food. We stopped in a small village and bought some oil. Elisme bought Argan oil with Arnica for her fingers. She is now using it in the car 3 times a day. She will report back if it works.
Arriving in Marrakech, we followed the GPS to our camp just to find out the road was closed. That was one time we were glad for a road block. Coen asked the police man where to go to. They directed us to the camp site. Le Relais will be our home for 3 nights. Hans went to talk to our fellow campers, from Ireland, Australie, England and Holland. He got a lot of information, they all came from Cape Town through West Africa. This was a beautiful camp site, with a swimming pool but no big trees.
Hans and Coen had work to do on the cars, the Landy needs a new deep cycle battery. After the 6 week boat trip the battery was dead. Coen needs to work on the Cruiser’s brakes and radiator.
Taxi rides for us again; we want to visit the now famous Marrakesh Madina where the bomb went off earlier this year. As Coen said, ask anyone about the bomb, and they don’t know a thing about it.
They have horse carts transporting the people from A to Z . Each owner wants to decorate his cart better than the next. Coming in to the Plain one is greeted with Orange Juice stalls, everybody just supported then, the heat was unbearable. Hans worked out that he spent 64 DHM at 4DHM a glass, I think that is enough orange juice for a week.
The Medina is a very popular tourist destination. Stalls as in all the Medinas sell from beautiful carpets, to scarves, leather, copper, tea glasses all shapes and sizes.
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| Marrakech famous market, snake chammer on the plain |
We decided to eat at a restaurant, the girls went checking menus. Tagine and pastilia was our choice for the evening.
Al vehicles were checked, packed, washing done, ready to leave for our next destination.
Taroudann was the plan where we planned to camp the evening. The scenery was much the same, Kashbah’s on many mountains, surrounded by their walls and then modern mansions on the same mountain. The road was again winding up and down. From the highest point the road lies like a snake down the mountains.
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| One doesnt see birds here, but every village has a mosque and Ibis favorite place for their nests |
Shanhaz has the ability to find the nicest little shops, such as butchers with excellent meat; spotlessly clean. Patisseria’s with biscuits made from almonds, to die for.
Stephanus could not believe the size of the orange farms in this valley. He was very impressed with their skills. Banana farming is also very big here. They cover al the banana’s under shading.
After a tiring but very interesting road, we arrived in Taroudann. High hopes of a nice camping site ... but 2 hours of driving, asking, following GPS points: NO CAMP SITE. We left for Agadir.
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| The Mountain has caves in and Berbers are staying in them next to the village. |
Hans had read about a very nice camping site close to Agadir. We follow the GPS, but just to make sure, Hans ask Shahnaz to phone the number. She confirmed they have camping and are waiting for us. They even gave her directions. The camping site was beautiful, with swimming pool and spotless ablution facilities. Mariana was doing dinner for us. She made a very tasteful Risotto with prawns and smoked mussels. We ended the meal with Cherry kirch from Andorra.
Coen was not happy with the Cruiser, he decide to stay in Agadir.
Hans and Stephanus wanted to go to Tafraoute. The same 4x4 route, still on the Atlas mountains, today we are going to the highest point. The mountains are all packed with terraces of stones to stop the water and snow from eroding the fields. Beautiful little waterfalls were everywhere.
The little villages are the same, old and new, but what was very strange was that you don’t see any people around. Stephanus was constantly saying,”maar hier is dan nie mense nie.”
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| Many road stalls , selling tasines. Elisme bought herself 4, she made us a tasine meal. |
We reached Tiznit when Shanhaz phoned to say they are on their way and will meet us at the camping site at Sidi Ifni.
This was one of those camp sites where you don’t know what to expect, there are walls around and a huge cliff right behind us.
They have photos here of 80 mobile homes parked on every available stand. We were not impressed: the ablution facilitiess, although we had our own keys, were awful.
Elisme offer to make super seeing that Shahnaz and Coen will be late. Mariana help chopping and peeling. Soon the Turkey and veggy broth was steaming. Served with a French loaf, everybody had their vitamins and proteins for the day.
Guelmin our first stop the next stop, just for fruit and Biscotty for Elisme. Luckily Hans turned too late for the GPS. A shopping street: Coen needed a head scarf for the desert. Mariana and Elisme joined them to look at beautiful 6 m batik material in which the woman wrap themselves. They could not decide which one to take. Each one with a wrap under the arm, they got back to Stephanus and Hans.
Heading for our camp at a salt lake near Laayoune we found the sign post Le Roi des Bedouins. White Bedouin tents greeted us, sails flapping in the wind. Everybody quickly realised that camping was out. The wind was blowing at a hundred km an hours, or so it felt. We all took a Bedouin tent, there was no wind in it.
Elisme decided now was the time to wrap herself in a head scarf, with her contact lenses and this wind. Shahnaz organized to use the kitchen. Quickly Coen called us for a lovely meal, savory mince and pasta. We had it in the tent restaurant.
After the meal Stephanus, Hans, Mariana and Elisme decided to go and see the salt lake and waterfall. Amazing to have a waterfall inthe desert.
Saturday morning we had to leave early, to do the 590 km to Dakhla. That will be our last town in Morrocco. Monday we will cross the border to Mauritania.
The day did not change, police blockades, handing out fiches and explaining we are only tourists. The wind is still blowing at a hundred km an hour.
Hopefully the camp will be walled. Else this will be the first test for our tents in this wind. Albie who did the Landy, we will let you know.
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