Desert from Nouadhibou to Choum to Atar to Chingeutti

22-07-2011 Desert road Nouadhi bou to Choum to Atar to Chinguetti  

20 July Wednesday we left Nouadhibou early for the route to Choum, not knowing what lies ahead. It is something you read a lot about: the desert, but to be in it is something totally different.

Hans had all the GPS coordinates so we were on our way. No road, just a straight line on the GPS, and landmarks to look for. The Railway line is somewhere to the left. We were warned not to drive to close to the railway line.

This railway line carries the 2, 5 km train, taking iron ore from Zouerat to Nouadhibou.

We had to do 540 km to Atar. We knew we will not make it, knowing that we’ll have to sleep somewhere in the desert. 

Coen stopped to check something underneath the Cruiser.


                                                              Al vehicles ready for the Desert

To his horror he saw his air helper spring had moved. Coen had the know how to fix it.

To Coen horror his airspring moved

  Between Stephanus and Hans they had the tools, from a screw to a drill. A high lifting jack had to be used after the car fell from the jack. Coen was quick enough to move away and the tyre was placed underneath the car. That could have been a disaster, but thanks to the boys thinking all went well. 3 hours later the car was ready, as Doepie would say, “to rock and roll”.

Stephanus got a little sun stroke, standing in the sun the whole time. His blood pressure dropped and he was feeling dizzy. Between the girls they quickly got him better, with ice water down his back. He was ready to take the sand again.

Stephanus negotiated a steep sand dune, just to find out it was not so easy. Hans radio’ed him to come right back, and then take it on with more speed. He managed the second time.

Mariana was getting worried, as the rest of us were in front and they had stopped. To her horror the dunes were giving the Cruiser a tough time. But Stephanus managed to get them out.

The temperature outside was 54 degrees. The wind was a little kind, although we were already in our desert outfits.

At 7 pm Hans suggested that we look for a camping spot for the night, a couple of km away from the road. Between the dunes Hans spotted some rocks and dunes. Just right for us. Stephanus was worried about a person coming our way and the village a couple of km away.

Hans went to the highest dune with his binoculars. He was satisfied that we are safe. Soon our visitor came by, we waved and he came to greet us. He was so friendly, and even invited us for dinner.

A very rich man measured by Camels invited us for Supper to his village

We put up camp in a square, soon the lamps were burning and candles. The tables were laid and as it was an open evening everybody was doing their own sandwiches. Sandwiches here are a French loaf with varieties of nice edible things. Hans and Elisme were on curry fish with cucumber and tomatoes. Stephanus and Mariana as well as Coen and Shanahaz were having sardines.

After tea and mangos we all went to bed.

Early next morning after a nice cup of coffee and rusks we left, Atar was our destination for tonight.

Sand dunes were getting steeper and the sand thick and very loose. Hans and Stephanus  stopped to deflate their  tyres.

Coen was leading today, a couple of times he had to come back and try the dune at another angle.  One of the valleys was very misleading and there Coen got really in to trouble. There was no gong forward or backwards. The boys tried to dig the wheels open, but that did not work. The Landy was called in to help

Coen and Stephanus checking the tow rope, while Hans is fastening it.

Coen, Stephanus and Hans discussed how to fasten the tow rope. The Landy was reversed in position. The rope was fastened, checked and a blanket put over it. Everything was ready, Coen in the Cruiser, Hans in the Landy. All set, and then the final moment. Voila and there comes the cruiser.

Here comes the Cruiser safe out of the sand; Thanks to the LANDY and it team mate HANS

Stephanus got in trouble once after again, Hans warned them to take the right way up a dune, but

Stephanus only realised the sand was too loose half way up. He had to reverse and  re-negotiates the dune, making it safely to the top.

They were quite relieved to reach Choum. The road to Atar was once again just on GPS. After about 6 km, Coen and Stephanus found the main road by a road marker giving the distances to Atar.

Road blocks were getting more as we were proceeding. One gendarme we didn’t see in a village made a desert chase of at. Rifle in hand they raced past and stopped us. When they realised we were only tourists they demanded our fiche and were happy to let us go.

In this round of desert sand the Landy came out tops. We still have a long way to go, and many chances for the Cruisers to improve on their performance.

The 2 Cruiser going up the Pass.

Camp Bab al Sahara was a very pleasant Oasis in the Desert. A nice shady living area with tables and hammock. They lit small lamps all round the camp; it looked so much like a fairy tale worldThe temperature was still around about 50 degrees.

Elisme was due to make supper. She did the lamb Shanhaz bought in Dakhla.

 After 1 hour in the pressure cooker it was ready to go with the rest of the tomato broth. Now for the Yorkshire pudding. That was the scary part for Stephanus and Hans, Elisme insist that the gas burner must go upside down on the pot’s lid. With a burner from the bottom and a burner on the top, within 15 min the pot was ready.

Mariana laid the table with copper standing around and berries in the garden.  We all enjoyed the welcome meal. Mariana made a nice slush puppy with the water melon and Cherry liquor. After that the bed was a welcome idea.

We were not quite prepared for the heat, there was no breeze blowing. Hans set up all the fans in their tent.  This was one of the evenings where the temperature never came down. In the middle of the night Hans was switching on the fans again.

Stephanus and Mariana thought it will be a good idea to change position in their tent. That didn’t help, as Mariana says the heat is everywhere, it doesn’t matter where you are.

Chinguetti was our next stop.  The 7th most holy city in the Muslim culture. 

A view from the roof of our Camp towards the holy temple

First we had to get an extension for our car import document. Our visas are for 30 days but our car’s import permit only for 7 days. This is just here where the bribery starts. Everyone is willing to help, but at an extra cost. We were waiting, but every half an hour they change the goal posts. Eventually Coen phoned Justus, the Dutch owner of the Camping, who was helping us all the way. He suggested that we leave without our extension. Suddenly the extension was ready. The cost would 10 000 Ooogy per car, that is about R250. Coen got furious and told the guy this is bribery. Then the trouble started. Everybody walked away.

The officer came back and then Coen asked Hans to continue negotiations. Hans not speaking French decided to phone Justus in Germany and explained our predicament. He spoke to the officer and then after paying our “bribery”  we left camp with our documents in hand.

The road to Chingeutti leads over a beautiful pass with very stony terrain. The road is a gravel road but well maintained. Along the way we saw a strange lizard. Hans said after looking it up it’s called a  spiny tailed uromastje lizard. They have stripes, blue and green.

We arrived in Chingeutti, the camping site was neat but had no trees. 

Hans, Stephanus and Coen went to investigate some other camps looking for shade. No success. Mariana and Elisme stayed at the camp. Here they have a room on top of the roof, mattresses and a dining table with 6 chairs. We decided this is where we will stay. A nice breeze comes through these rooms, there are no windows to open. The view is stunning over the city.

This is not a city as you know it, it’s mud and stone houses.

The boys decided to take a nap and the girls went for a shower. Everybody felt much better. Some of us read, Mariana was busy with her crocheting, doing a bedspread. Shahnaz, Elisme and Coen decided to do their blogs.

Mariana is doing our dinner tonight; she is going to serve, for pudding, stewed fruit with ideal milk. Elisme can’t wait for that.

Look at Mariana's POT. We eat like KINGS.

Our Guide is going to take us on a walking Safari through the town as soon as the temperature is more reasonable.

After a walk down a dry river bed and up a steep hill, we reached one of the oldest Mosques. 

Stephanus, Mariana, Hans and Elisme crossing the dry river bed to the holy temple and libary

The families keep the Mosque as their own private libraries. The documents are locked behind a glass draw. Each family has a door of entrance with its own key.  One of the Korans in there was written in 700BC.

One of the family treasures the Koran .

 The desert wind is busy destroying the Mosque.  This will not be here for many moiré years if they don’t start renovating it.The most used animal in this DESERT is the DONKEY. We heard a donkey whinning al night. the only opening he could find was this WINDOW.

The only WINDOW this DONKEY COULD GET.

Next time I will write from Nouakchott, that is the capital of Mauritania. We'll say GOODBYE  to the DESERT and MAURITANIA

Dalkhla to Mauritiania to Ali's camp

17-07-2011 dakhla to Mauritania we say goodbye to morocco.

We reached Dakhla, after another road block. Hans got through it quiet easily, but Coen and stephanus had to wait. The police man decided he’ll first help a lady in a car. They got worried; he disappeared with their passports in to a small office. Eventually he returns with them. After a couple of frustrating question is was will to let them go.

Hans in the meantime find the camping site, not impressed are al. They decided to search for some other options.

Going in to town, nothing to find there, back to first camping site. The GPS wakes up and start directing us to a campsite opposite the first one.

This camping site looks much better, location right on the sea. A gale force wind was blowing. We were thank full for a reed and shading wall to hide behind. This time Hans and Stephanus decided to park the Landy and Cruiser next to each other. They pulled out the 2 awnings for shading and the wind shade between the vehicles’ this stopped the wind.

The girls were already for the wind now. They were not fashion statement. No, this was really trying to protect them from the wind.

Sunday was a quiet peach full day. Everybody was busy with their own things.

Mariana was on tea duty as always, this time EARL GREY and biscuits. Although it wasn’t time for HIGH TEA, Elisme and Hans were on cucumber sandwiches.

Coen had a punctured tyre yesterday; Shanhaz went with him to town to fix it. She did our shopping, meat wise she always finds something. This time the choice was between CAMEL and MUTTON. What do you think was our choice?

Hans organised with the local Restaurant for us to have some Grilled fish and Chips. 

Chips are not something that you see in these places. The fish was grilled and underneath it were the potatoes and carrots done the Tagine way. Salad and bread completed the main course.

To end the meal we got melon and prunes

Packed and ready to do the 380 km to the border...

What we didn’t know was the strength of the wind that started to increase during the night. 

Coen and Shahaz thought their tent is going to torn. Hans was too tired to worry about the Landys tent. Albie you can know relax the tent did make its first storm.

14h30 we arrive at the Mauritanian border Starting with all the formalities, Police checks and what more. We were very lucky they didn’t ask us to unpack anything.   Stephanus says we must thank Hans, He asks the General their if he knew General........... And the the talking started. I think they forgot they want to check the vehicles.

18h20 we were in Mauritania.

To Ali’s camping site it was 48 Km. That the GPS’S stopped us right in front of the Gate... I must say ALI’S name was helping us through the Policies blockades.

The camp was between 4 walls, much less wind. We set up camp. Ali invites us for tea which is the use in this part of the world. You sit for 3 cups for tea. Black herb tea with lots of sugar and very strong. Each time you pout back your glass, he pours tea, you never get your own glass again. We South Africans find it Strange you can never be rude, you sit and drink.

Tuesday morning, the boys were on their way to sort out all the, Paper work.  We thought Mauritania will be a cheap country. Insurance for everything and what else is costing a pretty arm and a leg.

The girls are going to explore the town. We saw lovely fruit and vegetable stalls, as we came in yesterday.

Mariana says we must go and see for some nice, “LAP” This part of the continent it’s always so colourful.

Shanhaz wants to go to the fish market, her turn to do dinner. They say you get lovely fresh fish her. We’ll see.

Washing was done, for the desert trip tomorrow.

From then we’ll have to look after ourselves for water and everything.

Thinking back of Morocco. This is a country with many differences. Many beautiful places, villages, and country site. They produce beautiful, carpets, throws, leather and silver. I am sure Morocco will see us again. May be just stopping the Police stops, and terrorising tourists.

Next time; the six of us in the desert.

Delfat to Morrakech and Taroudann then Agadir, Tafraoute, Tiznit, Sidi Ifni,, Le Roi des Bedouins

10  July 2011 Sunday morning we left Delfat camp for Marrekesh, to cross the Atlas Mountains on a 4x4 route.

Delfat camp at the Atlas Mountains

 Nearly each mountain had a Kasbah or fortified town from the previous centuries seeming to come out of the rocks. Again the new buildings form part of it. Ibis birds are making their nests in the minarets of the Mosques.

We pass the valley of Roses but we didnt see any roses, except Celons roses. They get rose oil here too.

The 4x4 track which is to our surprise a narrow tar road, winds up and down the hills, with very sharp turns.

One of the many Kashbah on route

Berbers are farming here with their sheep. They move with them, staying in small white tents or in caves in the mountains.  We saw kraals packed with stones round a mountain. That must be for their sheep. I can’t think how long it took them to pack that wall.

Shahnhaz read on the internet of the woman getting Argan oil out of the argan nuts. They then manufacture it into different products, for body cosmetic and food. We stopped in a small village and bought some oil. Elisme bought Argan oil with Arnica for her fingers. She is now using it in the car 3 times a day. She will report back if it works.

Arriving in Marrakech, we followed the GPS to our camp just to find out the road was closed. That was one time we were glad for a road block. Coen asked the police man where to go to. They directed us to the camp site. Le Relais will be our home for 3 nights. Hans went to talk to our fellow campers, from Ireland, Australie, England and Holland. He got a lot of information, they all came from Cape Town through West Africa. This was a beautiful camp site, with a swimming pool but no big trees.

Hans and Coen had work to do on the cars, the Landy needs a new deep cycle battery. After the 6 week boat trip the battery was dead. Coen needs to work on the Cruiser’s  brakes and radiator.

Taxi  rides for us again; we want to visit the now famous Marrakesh Madina where the bomb went off earlier this year. As Coen said, ask anyone about the bomb, and they don’t know a thing about it.

They have horse carts transporting the people from A to Z . Each owner wants to decorate his cart better than the next. Coming in to the Plain one is greeted with Orange Juice stalls, everybody just supported then, the heat was unbearable. Hans worked out that he spent 64 DHM at 4DHM a glass, I think that is enough orange juice for a week.

The Medina is a very popular tourist destination. Stalls as in all the Medinas sell  from beautiful carpets, to scarves, leather, copper, tea glasses all shapes and sizes.

Marrakech famous market, snake chammer on the plain

We decided to eat at a restaurant, the girls went checking menus. Tagine and pastilia was our choice for the evening.

Al vehicles were checked, packed, washing done, ready to leave for our next destination.

Taroudann was the plan where we planned to camp the evening. The scenery was much the same, Kashbah’s on many mountains, surrounded by their walls and then modern mansions on the same mountain. The road was again winding up and down. From the highest point the road lies like a snake down the mountains.

One doesnt see birds here, but every village has a mosque and Ibis favorite place for their nests

Shanhaz has the ability to find the nicest little shops, such as butchers with excellent meat; spotlessly clean. Patisseria’s with biscuits made from almonds, to die for.

Stephanus could not believe the size of the orange farms in this valley. He was very impressed with their  skills. Banana farming is also very big here. They cover al the banana’s under shading.

After a tiring but very interesting road, we arrived in Taroudann. High hopes of a nice camping site ... but 2 hours of driving, asking, following GPS points: NO CAMP SITE. We left for Agadir.

The Mountain has caves in and Berbers are staying in them next to the village.

Hans had read about a very nice camping site close to Agadir. We follow the GPS, but just to make sure, Hans ask Shahnaz to phone the number. She confirmed they have camping and are waiting for us. They even gave her directions.  The camping site was beautiful, with swimming pool and spotless ablution facilities. Mariana was doing dinner for us. She made a very tasteful Risotto with prawns and smoked mussels. We ended the meal with Cherry kirch from Andorra.

Coen was not happy with the   Cruiser, he decide to stay in Agadir.

Hans and Stephanus wanted to go to Tafraoute. The same 4x4 route, still on the Atlas mountains, today we are going to the highest point. The mountains are all packed with terraces of stones to stop the water and snow from eroding the fields. Beautiful little waterfalls were everywhere.

The little villages are the same, old and new, but what was very strange was that you don’t see any people around. Stephanus was constantly saying,”maar hier is dan nie mense nie.”

Many road stalls , selling tasines. Elisme bought herself 4, she made us a tasine meal.

We reached Tiznit when Shanhaz phoned to say they are on their way and will meet us at the camping site at Sidi Ifni.

This was one of those camp sites where you don’t know what to expect,  there are walls around and a huge cliff right behind us.

They have photos here of 80 mobile homes parked on every available stand. We were not impressed: the ablution facilitiess, although we had our own keys, were awful.

Elisme offer to make super seeing that Shahnaz and Coen will be late. Mariana help chopping and peeling. Soon the Turkey and veggy broth was steaming. Served with a French loaf, everybody had their vitamins and proteins for the day.

Guelmin our first stop the next stop, just for fruit and Biscotty for Elisme. Luckily Hans turned too late for the GPS.  A shopping street: Coen needed a head scarf for the desert. Mariana and Elisme joined them to look at beautiful 6 m batik material in which the woman wrap themselves. They could not decide which one to take. Each one with a wrap under the arm, they got back to Stephanus and Hans.

Heading for our camp at a salt lake near Laayoune we found the  sign post Le Roi des Bedouins.  White Bedouin tents greeted us, sails flapping in the wind. Everybody quickly realised that camping was out. The wind was blowing at a hundred km an hours, or so it felt. We all took a Bedouin tent, there was no wind in it.

Elisme decided now was the time to wrap herself in a head scarf, with her contact lenses and this wind. Shahnaz organized to use the kitchen. Quickly Coen called us for a lovely meal, savory mince and pasta. We had it in the tent restaurant.

After the meal Stephanus, Hans, Mariana and Elisme decided to go and see the salt lake and waterfall. Amazing to have a waterfall inthe desert.

Saturday morning we had to leave early, to do the 590 km to Dakhla. That will be our last town in Morrocco. Monday we will cross the border to Mauritania.

The day did not change, police blockades, handing out fiches and explaining we are only tourists. The wind is still blowing at a hundred km an hour.

Hopefully the camp will be walled. Else this will be the first test for our tents in this wind. Albie who did the Landy, we will let you know.

Fez to Torra Gorge, Atlas Mountains to Marrakech

Casablanca 5 July 2011 Tuesday morning was a highlight in the life of Hans, Elisme, Stephanus, Mariana, Coen and Shanhaz.

The Hotel where we stayed waiting for our vehicles

We left the hotel 7h30 by taxi, this was one day we couldn’t care what we paid. The driver asked us 70DMH, that’s about R60. Shahnahz knew it was double, but Elisme said let’s go. Half way to the depot where they will release our vehicles, the taxi stopped and the 6 of us was transferred to a Renault with the driver that made 7 of us in one car. {All of a sudden we knew how a taxi feels in SA}

When the gate opened there was the Landy and a blue container, the Manager immediately said the 2 Land Cruisers are still in there.  Hans and Elisme moved on to the Landy as soon as the container was opened and there stands the 2 Cruisers.

The boys were checking and sorting out the vehicles to make sure there is no damage. The 6 weeks at sea took its toll, no battery life was left but that was not a problem. Quickly the Manager organised something and got them started.

Hans and the Manager who arranged our vehicles.

Just here the Safari our “African dream” started, the six of us left on our way to Fez.

The drive was a pleasant one; the boys had no problem adjusting to driving on the right hand side of the road.

We picked up our entire luggage at our hostess’ house. We said our goodbyes to the house keeper. Although we couldn’t understand what she was saying we had become very fond of her.

Arriving at Fez camping site we were full of excitement. We all were anxious to see what was packed. Hans suggested that we check what we need, for take a trip and go shopping to get everything. We don’t know when and where we will be able to stock up again.

Vehicles were packed and sorted ready to leave Thursday morning, as early as possible.

Sorting out the vehicles at Fez camping site. Elisme looks puzzled.

We thought it’s a good idea to invite Fatima and her son Ahmed to dinner at the camp. They never had a camp experience before. We did a candle light dinner under the stars. We all enjoyed the evening, Fatima was on the map to show the boy al the “must see places”. Then it was goodbye. We will always be grateful for the family, looking after us while we were waiting for our vehicles.

Thursday morning we left early, our planned route was through the Atlas Mountains.  This was a very nice sonic route, from forest to very dry areas. We made a stop for by now famous “orange juice” Elisme calls it our vitamin C injection for the day.

We entered the Berber country. Their most unusual tent was now visible in the valleys. They are sheep farmers with thousands of sheep on the hills. Their carpets are world reknown.

We arrived at the beautiful hot spring, a must see. We could not dream there could be so many people. There was no way out of this. The manager assured us the holiday makers will leave at 6 o’clock,

Eyes were following us every step while we were setting up camp.

Elisme had the first Dinner to prepare. She decided on a Risotto and ice cold Mellon for pudding. Mariana ends the meal with a lovely Lemon Verbena and liquorice tea. All of us are now use to a flavoured tea after our meals in this extremely hot country. They say it cools you of.

The whole night was noisy. Somehow we slept through it al. To tired of the heat.

Friday morning we left for The Gorge. First we must get gas. Al our bottles had to be empty on the ship. They don’t have the same fittings as in SA, a new bottle was the only way. Hans and Stephanus bought one together. Price 80 DHM, in SA it would cost round about R380 without gas, this one was filled.

We took the road stop to enjoy our daily orange juice, but no orange juice. Hans surprised us with typical Moroccan sandwiches from this area. . That’s round bread with cheese spread and Polony. Nice and the polony just delivered, very fresh.

 There must be very rich people here; the houses are mansions. It doesn’t look as if there are any people living there. The gorge and the little towns are fascinating. 

The old Kashbash and the new mansions, marrying each other in harmony. Hans never stopped to say how different and charming this area is. The river runs through this Gorge and then suddenly just stops: no water, a dry river bed follows. Holiday makers are all over, next to the road. To stop the road dust they take water from the river and splash it on the road. Then they happily lay down on their picnic blankets, enjoying the outing.

This time we got a beautiful camping site, with spotless bathrooms. An inviting swimming pool, with Palm trees, indigenous to this area.

The locals here especially the women are very visible with a tattoo on their chins.

Stephanus and Hans are suffering, beer is not freely avaible, and when you get it, at a price. As they say no price is too high, for an ICE COLD BEER in the desert.

Mariana was doing our Dinner tonight. Stephanus was braaing the lamb and Mariana did lovely veggies. Pudding was a fruit salad. They really spoilt us.

Elisme dressed up for The Malherbe’s dinner. The table was nicely laid with candles and drinks. They spoilt us rotten.

Tomorrow we leave for Gorge Tora and Dades.

Saturday early coffee and rusks and then up and packed.

Hans and Elisme are packed up easily after the Landy’s “face lift”. It’s a dream, thanks to Albie from Wellington in SA. ”Albie so far everything is working perfectly”

  We try to get internet connection, along our route, but that is not so easy. Sometimes very frustrating. Today was one of them. The only place where you could get connection was at the swimming pool. There was a mail for Mariana from Delmarie, between sun and  a shining screen Mariana was so deligted to see the beautiful foto’s of her mother, enjoying her birthday.

On our way we came to the picturesque Tora gorge, a green valley with small farm lands. The early 16 century Kasbah on hills and modern mansions on the other side.

On top of the valley, looking down. Look at the road ands Torra Gorge below 

The pass out of the valley was scary with sharp bends every 200 m. At the top of the gorge a original building style restuarant with a view down the valley and on the pass, look at the photo.

Our next overnight will be after Ouarzazat.  Shahnaz’ turn to prepare dinner. She made a stop at a butcher, one of the neatest butcheries Elisme has ever seen.

Arriving at  Delfa campsite, behind walls, we found a nice swimming pool, but as Coen said: “We must start getting used to the desert: no grass, just sand.”

Dinner with Shanhaz and Coen was a delicious curry and grapes for pudding, and lemon grass tea to help you sleep.

Tomorrow we go to Marrakesh

Africa, Morocco, Tangiers, Rabat, Fez and now Casablancha

eThe continent of Africa.

Morocco the town of Tangiers.

Hans, Stephanus, Mariana and Elisme had their first view of Morocco the town of Tangiers, threw the window of a luxuries Ferry.

A fascinating picture.

Through the window of the Ferry Africa, Morroco

Forest Cumb said, “My mum use to say you, life is like a box of chocolates you never know what you’re going to get”

Did she know AFRICA?

Coen and Shanhaze came 2 day before us to Tangier. They were so kind to meet us on the Port.” I wonder did they know about our luggage’. Hans was constantly reminding us, about carrying your own luggage. “Please don’t buy any stuff.” Needless to say Elisme didn’t listen

Shanhaze negotiated a could price for a taxi to take our luggage. Hans and Shanhaze went off to the hotel  with the taxi. Coen walked with Mariana,

Stephanus and the rest of us, at immegration on the Ferry.

 Elisme and Stephanus. On root we pasted the old market. Suddenly we realise this is a different continent from Europe, but we’re children of Africa. We love our continent

Our group was now together, the only things that was missing and had not arrived from Cape Town was our vehicles.

Hans, Stephanus and Coen were as they say “back to the drawing board”. After all the organizing from SA to get the Vehicles here, with the shipping company, contact person a Glen in Cape Town. Seems the company and Glen disappeared.

Hans Coen and Stephanus made their own arrangements to try and establish where our vehicle are. They managed to get “new” connections. There was no way to get our vehicles in Tangiers. The ship is still on its way to Tangiers and from there they will go to Casablanca.

Rabat the capital of Morocco our next stop.

Coen and Shanhaze is fluent in French, thanks for that. Coen work at the SA embassy, a time ago. They got an appointment with the Ambassador.

Stephanus, Hans and Coen visiting the SA Ambassador

Letter in hand from the SA embassy, they went off to apply for our visas. Mauritania, Mali and Cameroon were the first 3 countries we applied for.

Mariana, Shanhaze and Elisme went of exploring Tangiers. The view over the sea didn’t disappoint us. A lot of history lies in Tangiers.

Street Cafe’s are all along the street, men are sitting there sipping espresso and a glass of water. They are all facing the street, watching the world go by all day

Three Girls arriving in Tangiers.

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The Gates of the Old Madina in Tangiers, was welcoming us. This was a different world, very Narrow Street, cars, bicycles and does nkie carts riding, people are walking. The cars hooter is an instrument of communication; they use it all the time.

Everybody is trying to sell his own product, sometime just a table with his goods. The spices were spreading an exotic flavour as we got close. Olives in all the varieties you can think of, heaps of them

Gates of the Old Madina in Tangier

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The Tram was a new one for us girl, it was also brand new in Rabat. We thought this will be a nice way of exploring Rabat and were it. We saw everything from the old to the new. The walls of the old town were stretching around it for km.

Coen new of a 2 beautiful Restaurants. They were exotic. The interior was Moroccan. The food was traditional. We enjoyed the washing of our hands before the meal. Al though the dishes were stange to us, the taste was good. Most of their dishes are vegetarian dishes. They never put salt an pepper on a table

Beautiful restuarant in the Old Madina

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Coen,Hans and Stephanus managed to get our visas, with this in our hands we set of to Fez.

Hans  made contact with a good friend Dr Sulliman from the UK’s sister, who stay”s in Rabat. She invited us to come and stay with here. Once again al the luggage in hand, but this time we ordered a taxi, we set of to the station. By now we were experts on using trains.

Fatima met us on the station. I think she couldn’t believe her eye’s, 6 people and al this luggage

Fatima and her French friends with us having a SA braai.

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We were welcomed in their manchion of a house like “KING”. The family really went out of their way to treat us.

The boys offered to do a SA braai. Fatima invited some French colleaus to join us. This was a very pleasant and unforgettable evening. Around the table we were talking, French, Moroccan, English, Italian and Africans. Sometimes it was difficult to understand each other, but it was a very jolly group.

Fez is well known for the biggest Madina in Africa. People, work  and stay in this market. There are  beautiful mosque in the madina. We were told there are 9500 street, if this is true I don’t know.

Many of the street are only selly one product, there for you get a Shoe street, nougat street and cakes, leather street, a silver street. Street which .sells head scarfs

One of the shops in the street where they sell Head Scafs

Africa, Morocco, Tangiers, Rabat and Fes. Ready

Ooooooooop this is Africa, POST this one loooooong ago and here it is back trying again, hope it will work this time.
The continent of Africa.

Morocco: the town of Tangiers.

Hans, Stephanus, Mariana and Elisme had their first view of Morocco the town of Tangiers, through the window of a luxuries Ferry.

A fascinating picture.

We set eyes on Africa, Morocco and Tangier, through the window of the Ferry.

Stephanus, Marian, Hans and Elisme standing at migration, on the Ferry exit Spain enter Morocco 

Forest Gump said, “My mum used to say, ‘life is like a box of chocolates you never know what you’re going to get”

Did she know AFRICA?

Coen and Shanhaz arrived in Tangier 2 days before us. They were so kind to meet us at the Port.” I wonder if they knew about our luggage’. Hans was constantly reminding us, about carrying your own luggage. “Please don’t buy any stuff.” Needless to say Elisme didn’t listen.

Shanhaz negotiated a GOOD price for a taxi to take our luggage. Hans and Shanhaz went off to the hotel with the taxi. Coen walked with Mariana, Elisme and Stephanus. En route we passed the old market. Suddenly we realise this is a different continent from Europe, but we’re children of Africa. We love our continent.

French Restuarant, we al had some nice feesh orange juice.

Our group was now together, the only things that was missing and had not arrived from Cape Town were our vehicles.

Hans, Stephanus and Coen were as they say “back to the drawing board”. After all the organizing from SA to get the Vehicles here, with the shipping company, contact person a Glen in Cape Town. Seems that SAFMARINE and Glen disappeared.

Hans, Coen and Stephanus made their own arrangements to try and establish where our vehicles are. They managed to get “new” connections. There was no way to get our vehicles in Tangiers. The ship is still on its way to Tangiers and from there they will go to Casablanca. (Email to Glen took 5 days to send a reply, no help at all from Safmarine South Africa). The boys can’t do anything to hasten the vehicles arriving: - still on the mighty ocean.

Our next stop: Rabat the capital of Morocco

Stephanus, Coen and Hans, o the station again, Casablanca to Fez after arranging for our vehicles

Shop selling Head Scarfs.

Coen and Shanhaz are fluent in French, thanks for that. Coen worked at the SA embassy, a while ago. They got an appointment with the Ambassador.Letter in hand from the SA embassy, they went off to apply for our visas. Mauritania, Mali and Cameroon were the first 3 countries we applied for.

Mariana, Shanhaz and Elisme went of exploring Tangier. The view over the sea didn’t disappoint us. A lot of history lies in Tangier.

Street Cafe’s are all along the street, men are sitting there sipping espresso and a glass of water. They are all facing the street, watching the world go by all day.

The Gates of the Old Medina in Tangier was welcoming us. This was a different world, very Narrow Street, cars, bicycles and donkey carts riding, people walking. The cars hooter is an instrument of communication; they use it all the time.

Everybody is trying to sell his own product, sometime just a table with his goods. The spices were spreading an exotic flavour as we got close. Olives in all the varieties you can think of, heaps of them.

On the top floor of a restaurant in the Medina, after conquering all the steps, a true Moroccan environment met our eyes. With true Moroccan hospitality we were invited to sit down.

Rabat was our next destination, Boys task visas, Girls exploring Rabat. The Tram was a new one for us girls, it was also brand new in Rabat. We thought this will be a nice way of exploring Rabat. And was it!  We saw everything from the old to the new. The walls of the old town were stretching around it for km.

Coen knew of 2 beautiful Restaurants. They were exotic. The interior was Moroccan. The food was traditional. We enjoyed the washing of our hands before the meal. Although the dishes were strange to us, the taste was good. Most of their dishes are vegetarian dishes. They never put salt and pepper on a table.

Coen,Hans and Stephanus managed to get our visas, with this in our hands we set of to Fez. Hans made contact with a good friend, Dr Sulliman from the UK’s sister, who stays in Fez.  She invited us to come and stay with her. Once again all the luggage in hand, but this time we ordered a taxi, we set off to the station. By now we were experts at using trains.

Fatima met us on the station. I think she couldn’t believe her eyes, 6 people and all this luggage.

We were welcomed in their mansion of a house like “KING’S”. The family really went out of their way to treat us. The boys offered to do a SA braai. Fatima invited some French colleagues to join us. This was a very pleasant and unforgettable evening. Around the table we were talking, French, Moroccan, English, Italian and Afrikaans. Sometimes it was difficult to understand each other, but it was a very jolly group.

Fez is well known for the biggest Medina in Africa. People, work and stay in this market. There are beautiful mosques in the medina. We were told there are 9500 street, if this is true I don’t know. You can’t visit the Medina without a guide, you’ll get lost, and that’s no joke.

Many of the streets are only selling one product; therefore you get a Shoe street, Nougat Street and cakes, Leather Street, a silver street. Street which head scarfs. The picture tells the story. Hans organized a day trip for us to the Atlas Mountains. There was a beautiful waterfall to see, compare to SA it was rather small. We saw the very rare species of Maccack monkey. For me their faces look like leopards. They say they are not aggressive, we didn’t test that.

The Cedar forest was something special. One of the trees is 800 years old and died 10 years ago. Still standing firm in its shoe or shall we say ROOTS. Elisme thinks the Cedar trees are very nice trees. She reminded us of the play “ n Seder val in Waterkloof” now we understand more about that.

Stephanus, Coen and Hans set off to Casablanca, mission: to find out where our vehicles are. Shall I say mission impossible. God was on their side, although Glen and Safmarine dropped them, he helped. They got hold of a kind man who knows the Port and has experience of clearing vehicles from ships. While they were busy with him, the news came that the ship with our vehicle containers entered Port.

That was Friday, they must inspect our vehicles before releasing them, and so Monday they will start with the process.

 Hans, Coen and Stephanus return to Fez where Mariana, Shanhaz and Elisme were waiting, The Girls tried the Moroccan mud and steam bath, and was that fun. Mariana thought she arrived in Eden, all naked girls walking around from one station to the other. Steam bath, over your whole body,  rubbing an oil and soap mixture Temperature outside 50 degrees, steam bath 72degrees, Elisme thought she is going to faint, luckily Shanhaz reminded her to breathe. 15 min in there, then therapists wash  you, under an ice cold shower then the next station is lying on Marble tables,  now the scrubbing, Elisme knew they are now taking of all her extra fat, but what was going to be left of Mariana and Shanhaz? No skin? (They still have the evidence) a mud mask was rubbed over you whole body, except for slipping and sliding on the marble, that felt healing. Relax for 15 min. Back to the ice cold shower, now shampoo and washing. The 3 girls stepped out of the Spa, in “new Feathers” after so much pampering laughing and not understanding a word, even Shanhaz couldn’t understand.  This will go in to memory lane.

Sunday morning we all set of to catch the 8h00 train. The process is always the same, walk for a long distance, get a taxi and then on the train. Trains are here a common way of transport, clean, vast and reliable.

Casablanca station, was about 2 km from our hotel, back on our feet. Everybody decided that’s just a nice walk. Half way we stopped for fresh orange juice. The Cafe’s here same story, all chairs facing the street, just men sitting there. That didn’t upset Shanhaz, Mariana and Elisme, they just join the men on the chairs.

Our walk took us through the Medina, beautiful leather jackets and handbags.

The hotel overlooks the harbour; rooms are small but clean.

The boys had a traditional Moroccan meal here. They decided we must all go again. Everybody knows them and greet them as long time friends. Our host for the evening was very comfortable behind his gas burners and 6 Moroccan tajine pots. Got to watch him. His food was excellent and the spices going with it, cumin and paprika and chillis, that was a feast.

Coen and Shanhaz went to relax at the hotel, while the rest of us went to see the Mosque which seats a hundred thousand people. That was another story, Shanhaz was saying the garbage around this beautiful Mosque is really a shame.

Our night view from our room, but sleep is going to be little. Hans says the people sit at these little cafe’s until 3 am. 4 am in these Moslem countries, they call them to pray. I am sure an hour’s sleep will do for a couple of days till the vehicles arrive.

4 July 2011 Monday morning, 7h30 Stephanus, Coen and Hans set off to the Port to see what they can do about our cars. 13h30 they phone to say we must check out of the hotel. Vehicle will soon be released,

                               HERE THE SAFARI NOW REALY STARTS.