Nigeria -Obello -Shagamu -Benin City - Onitsha -Enugu_ Ikom -Cameroon

13-09-2011 Nigeria Obello- Shagamu – Benin City—Onitsha-Enugu-Ikom Cameroon13-09-2011 

Now what shall I say, how do I start. 20 Control points in 60 km. 14 times we were stopped, sometimes, get out of the car; give your passport and then the questioning.” Why are you here?”And “What is the purpose of your visit?” and “How do you find Nigeria?” while one of the other officers fill in a register. Another officer wants to inspect the vehicles.

Nigeria is to my opinion not a Tourism friendly country. The Roads are the worst we had. I know you think this is impossible. Freeway has 4 lanes, a truck coming from the opposite side, in your lane.  All you can do is move out of the way. Coen was nearly caught head on with one of them, he didn’t see. Potholes so deep that Coen’s Land Cruiser bumped its tow bar a few times.

Once again we must do 174 km. Then the traffic came to a stop. An accident on the other side of the freeway, 3 trucks collided. This is understandable no signs or any warning, the next moment a Truck is coming from the front. Can you imagine a high way in SA and a big truck coming from the front? Surely there must be an accident within a kilometre.  They closed the freeway. All the traffic is now transferred to these 2 lanes. I can see another after dark reaching our overnight stop. These kilometres are going to take hours.

One after the other police checks points and Immigration and Customs and Traffic department. Most of them was friendly and waved us on our way, after a few questions about SA. The last question was always ‘WHAT did you bring for me from sa.  Hans always answered I am a Christian therefore i bring you the love of god” they then just smiled and wished us a safe journey. Then the next traffic check point came. The officer said his Boss want to see the drivers; he was sitting in the shade. Hans took all our documents. According to him the Carnet de Passage was a French document. Hans showed him the Nigeria stamp. Then he said according to Nigerian law, a right hand driver car was not allowed in Nigeria. Hans said they stamped our documents and imported the car to Nigeria. He was extremely difficult, but then Hans can get just as difficult. So Hans won and he said we can go without paying a bride.

We entered Benin City in the dark, no clue where the Hotel is. There is no camping in Nigeria. Hans stopped and asked a guy the directions for the hotel. When we got to the point where we must turn, Hans asked a guy on his bicycle. He said we must follow him, so we did at a record speed. After 500m he stopped and said we must turn right here and follow the boards. That was easy but the hotel was full. They directed us to Osio hotel, basically across the main road.

Beautiful Steel Doors, big Industries in the towns

More off their work

We all got our rooms. Hans said it’s a typical African hotel. We were all so grateful just to be safe and a place to sleep, the rooms didn’t matter. They were clean and had the basics.

Tonight our menu was even simpler, 2 minute noodles and old bread with sardines. Elisme took a baby standley the flask to Stephanus and Mariana. Tea was what Mariana needed after a tough day. She is slowly getting better. The coartem is doing it work. She was holding a face towel on her head the whole day, wetting it with ice water. The road and police stops were of no help to her condition. She is tough and was just smiling and saying the pain stiller helps.

Wednesday morning we all woke up early, ready for breakfast. To our surprise, knock on the door. Breakfast came on a tray, with one cup with hot water, 4 slices of bread. Hans said he thinks it was half an egg scrambled with tomato and chilli. Elisme had the mug with hot water, Cocoa and evaporated milk, very nice. Mariana asked “we’re two and only one cup” the waitress said no a room gets only one cup. We remembered this is Nigeria.

I think Hans, Stephanus and Coen got the road directions from one of the local guys. To get through Benin City without directions it is not so easy. The GPS is once again is not so reliable. tracks for Africa need to upgrade some West African countries. Coen is struggling with map studio maps. They don’t even have Benin City on it; the city has existed for more than a thousand years. Hans is very impressed with Michelin maps they are on the spot, this far on the trip.

Highway to Onitsha

Benin City has no electricity except for private generators. This is strange for an oil producing country. Benin City is the capital of this state.

The road to Onitsha is a highway this one is in an excellent condition. Strange we passed two farmers chasing their cattle on the highway.

We see many interesting advertisement boards. This one was very funny for us there’s food nearby don’t die. Nigeria has got many Christians. One can see many Christian churches and the Psalm most used is psalm 91. We passed big beautiful churches very modern like the one in Moreletta Park Pretoria.

Shanhaz took this photo of the bridge 

Onitsha was another story. The high way we could not believe no potholes and no Police road blocks. The country site the vegetation was very topical. The bridge crossing the Niger River was 1 kilometre long. A round construction 10m high with bows. So sad but you’re not allowed to take photos of the bridge. Must say it’s really impressive. Then we reach the town, we enter the market and then the traffic came to a standstill. We waited and waited, and then slowly we started moving again. This was another merry go round as Hans said “how do you describe this”. Surely a muddy mess, pot holes like swimming pools of water, cars stucked in the mud. Trucks driving on any side of the road, taxi’s squeezing in where angels fear to trend . The three SA vehicles were ducking and diving and trying to explaining and waving.Eventually after a good 2 hour struggle we were through and on our way to Enugu.

There was no change in the road condition, very bad road. But what put a smile to our faces was the warning board. Next 10 km be careful of potholes. Then we were having potholes all the way. You can’t go faster than 20 km/h then a board reduce speed to 40 kph. Somebody in this country has a good sense of humour.  

Mansions on the hills.

Modern houses in a Enugu

Enugu is a big town with modern newly built Estates and very big individual houses. All the towns in Nigeria are very dirty with debris lying all over. Modern banks but we couldn’t find one working ATM. Then small shops selling different items, like a shampoo shop and then a water shop, Cool drink shop, Material shop. So they go on everyone selling these products - fresh fruit and vegetables rarely get. Agriculture is non-existent. As Shanhaz was rightfully remarking, what are the population of Nigeria going to do if the oil runs dry, a very fertile country, but very few are working the land.

Hans got a guy in a vehicle to drive us to the NIKI LAKE RESORT. We think this was previous owned by Protea group. This one was too expensive for us. We have no idea, where to in this Town? Shanhaz and Elisme negotiated for a better price, explaining we are Campers who sleep in our vehicle. Seeing that they have no camping facilities, please give us an affordable price. They asked our budget we said 50$ they settled on 70$.

The rest checked in after a very exhausting trip.  Shanhaz and Elisme took a taxi to town to exchange money. The hotels exchange on the dollar is 100 Niara for a dollar, then the rooms will just be too expensive. In town they exchange for 154 Niara to 1$. So there the two went, very anguished but, Shanhaz saying; what must be done must be done. Soon the taxi was in the middle of a rain storm. The sunroof was pouring water on Shanhaz, she moved over to Elisme. That was of no help, both of them was soaking wet after every turn and bump, water was showering on them.

The taxi driver pointed out a small shop in a small street. This is where we must change. Elisme thought this is it, nobody will ever see her and Shanhaz again. They fetched us with a garden umbrella as this was a major storm. Inside a desk and 2 benches, a curtain at the back wall. Elisme was very sure this is where they are going to disappear. Shanhaz first ask, do they change CFA  to NIARA. They did at a reasonable rate. While she was busy the Taxi driver, like a real father, came in and watched the whole process. He even checked the money, thanked them and let us walks out in front of him to the car. Shanhaz and Elisme were so grateful to him they even paid him his full asking price. They thanked the PRO of the Hotel for recommending him and said she must always recommend him for visitors.

Hans was by now out of his mind of worries about Elisme and Shanhaz. We left at 4 o’clock and only came back at 6.30. stephanus said they didn’t know where to start looking for them.

Once again like so many time on this trip god was protecting us. He gave us a wonderful man to gide us. Here in Africa you realise what it mean to trust god.  You can only lay your daily bread to him. Your children and your businesses in South Africa, he provide in every sense.  But the beauty is that he always keeps to his promise.

Mariana did a very nice platter with cheeses, tomato’s, avo and fish. She served it with a loaf of bread. That was something new for us after 3 months off not seeing a loaf of bread. Thanks to Mariana, who is now feeling much better? She finishes her coartem.

We all had a wonderful rest. Shanhaz and Coen were thankful for the peace and quiet of the hotel.

7 o’clock we were ail ready to leave. The boys wanted to cross the border to day at mfum then into Cameroon.

Hans got a map from one of the local guys how to get out of Egunu. The town was still sleeping, so the traffic was kind. We move easily on to the road to abakaliki. This is the trans Africa road. This is very hard to describe the size of the potholes and the state of this road at some places. Then you get stretches that you can drive 100kph easily. The bad patches are really a disgrace for such an important road.

The road blocks now increase to every 600m there is a police road block. Always the question, “what have you got for me” Today I am sure this is the way god use us. We tell every policeman, we bring him the love of god and his blessings. Some just smile, some ask us are you Christians? Some agree they know god. Hans and Elisme know now what to bring them as a gift, a bible. Coen said some other Safari guys who went through Nigeria said the TRAFFIC OFFICERS HUNT IN PACKS, This is really true. Stephanus Said the whole training collage is there to stop us.

Ikom we reached at 3o’clock. The boys decided they will sleep here. The Cameroon border is now only 20 km. But the road is getting worse in Cameroon. That is Unthinkable; they say 60 km will take us 4 days???????

Hans sleep over place was, the st peters catholic church grounds. This time we got the place just as we enter town on our left hand side. The Father there was father Emmanuel his hospitality exceeded all our expectations. He said we can have rooms or just camp under the tree on the grass. Coen and Shanhaz decided to take a room. The rest of us just took a room to shower and use the toilet. We asked what we must pay, he said it was for free. He invited all of us for lunch, curry beef with Yum. He explained that the curry was made of a local plant. Elisme and Shanhaz could not figure out what it was. Hans and Coen dug in and said it was very nice. Yum grows on a plant like a seed. They make a mash and chips with it. The chips are very nice, the mash taste like maize meal porridge.

Camping at St Peters Catholic Church

Then it was time for Shanhaz to try and paste Hans tooth. his tooth broke in half and was now hurting him. Bush mechanics and now a bush Dentist. with half the tooth in hand, cleaned with alcohol and dried, everybody was giving advise. Shanhaz stayed calm and collective and put the half tooth right on the other half. she really impressed all of us. Hans was smiling again. we just hold thumbs that it will last. 

Mariana was preparing a Chicken A la King for us. Hans and Elisme went to explore the town, with one of the girls of the Church. In the street there was water puddle with green moss, mosquitos were swarming. The people were all greeting and telling us how welcome we are. The Nigerian people were really friendly, we were never afraid. Maybe we were just not in the areas where the danger are.

Soon it was clear we’re in for a thunder storm. This time rain, lighting and thunder were coming. This was showers of rain or shall I say buckets of rain pouring from heaven. No Awning helped and we 6 were soaking wet. The only nice thing of this storm was, Hans was washing the dishes under the water storming from the awning. The six of us were laughing and comparing whose clothes are the wettest.

Mkulu and Blink kas on their way

The next morning we were doing damage control. Every vehicle had problems to get stuff dry, clothes, towels and linen.  We are so organised by now, that not even a rain storm keeps us back. 7 o’clock we were on the road.

Our next border crossing Nigeria to Cameroon. Mfum. Nigeria insisted to see us all again. The 6 of us sat in front of this officer, like school children answering questions and filling in forms, the officer wrote everything in his register. He pass each Passport to the next officer, he controls and then pass to the Bose. When the Boss is satisfied he stamps the Passport. Not finished yet, go to the office across the street. A very important officer asks our Passports, he wrote everything in a register. After 1 hour, they were satisfied and said we can now go. They have big gates to block of the border post.

Cameroon was a different story, they were friendly, very efficient and soon we were on our way to the Customs Post. The boys did everything Immigration and Import of vehicles.

We must exchange money; this was the Girls’ problem. We checked the exchange rate on internet the previous day. There for we knew exactly what we were negotiating for. Eventually they gave us close to the right rate.

The Boys find out that we must have a guide, for all the bypass roads and the ‘informal’ toll gates. The officer at Immigration recommended Aba. Everything said and done, so we left with Aba.

The road soon showed us what it’s all about. That storm of last night was clearly visible on the road condition. We now realise why everybody said the roads in Cameroon are bad.

Landy pulling the Cruiser out of the bad obstacle

As we came round a sharp bench in the road, there was a vehicle stuck in the mud. No way can we pass. They asked Hans to pull them out. Soon the willing Land Rover was doing the hard work again. When the road was clear, we moved on. The landy went out, Coen followed. The Cruiser’s bull bar got stuck in the mud. The Landy pulled him out.

Our guide Aba was advising Hans at the top of his voice where to drive and how fast he must go. Hans being a novice on the Cameroon though this guy knows what he was saying. Soon we found ourselves slipping and sliding over the road, to the edge of a ditch. Hans realised he was going to slip in the ditch if he moves. He called for Coen to come and pull him away from the ditch. The road was so slippery that as the Cruiser pulled the Landy slipped in the ditch. We all thought the Landy was going to fall over. Then Hans called Stephanus in to anchor the Landy while Coen winched and Hans put it in low range 1^st gear. They synchronised to winch, Hans slowly moved out, while Stephanus and the rest pull to keep the Landy from rolling. That was a nail biting experience. We got out safely.

Landy slipt in the Ditch as the Cruiser was trying to pull it away from the Ditch

Once again the Landy was in the ditch.

When going to the next obstacle, we saw this vehicle, not moving. This was a steep hill, looking like a ploughed land with big pot holes. There were deep ditches one each side. Aba was telling Hans give fire, give fire. We went up the hill half way and then we slide in the ditch. Once again the Landy was falling over. The boys tried everything. They winched it, just to get it slipping in the ditch again. Another Short wheel Land Rover came from the back. This guy stopped, got all the people out of his landy. He was taking control of the situation. Stephanus winched in, he got 10 people pulling the landy side ways out of the ditch and Hans in low range driving him out. They won the Landy was on the road again.

Stephanus was driving first now. Then he got stuck, the people pushed him and he was on his way. Reversing and going to the top. This time Hans did it his way. Low range 2 gear and slow. He went out with no problem. The Coen came and he got stucked. The 2 Cruisers help each other. Stephanus, pulled Coen out. This was at a point of a local toll gate. You don’t know what you’re paying for, the ditch stones and stumps or not paying and go through the ditch with nails and obstacles to hurt your tires. Who are we to complain, this is the system.

The afternoon was just too much, Coen got stuck again and Stephanus pulled him out. The problem is the bull bar, the holes are just too deep. This is very difficult to describe the holes and the walls of mud. There was this ditch on the sides.

After 20 km. We reach Eyumojok. We said to Aba this is where we’re going to sleep. He arranged for us at a nice spot. Shanhaz were doing Supper. Tonight we’re on Bully beef and Pasta.  Dates were for pudding. Shanhaz made a very nice Bully beef with fresh tomatoes and here special herbs. We all enjoyed it very much.

Shower time was all we were waiting for. Everybody was having mud everywhere. Hans parked against a wall and the Boys put a canvas from the Landy to the wall. First the girls were in for a shower and then the men. We all went to bed clean and tired.

Saturday morning was an early beginning; the day has just dawned when everybody was moving. We must pack and start the next shift to Mamfe.  

Hans slowly cruise through the obstacles

7 O’clock we were all ready to move. Soon we realise this is going to be the same story. The first obstacle was just a few kilometres out of town. This was really a bad one, very deep holes and ditches where the vehicles falls straight down. Hans now knows just what to do with these obstacles. He didn’t listen to Aba anymore. He learned his lesson. He went in slowly and just cruise the Landy through the obstacle. First you fall in this ditch then you must climb out again. 

Coen came in and then the Land Cruiser got stuck, same story the bull bar. The Land Rover could not come to close to pull it out. Stephanus got his towing rope; they joined the two ropes with an iron in the middle. Then the Landy pulled the Cruiser through the obstacle to the top.

The rest of the obstacles were just as bad. By now I think the Boys got wiser. The two Cruisers reversed them out of trouble. The Landy had a better day. Until Hans said he thinks the coil spring has jumped out again. He stopped and yes, it was out. They looked for a safe place to stop and soon the Boys were at work again. They jacked the Landy up, hit the coil spring back. This time they tied it with a cable tie.

Stephanus washed the lights of the vehicles and number plates. They were worried that we’ll get a fine if these were not visible. I don’t think the three Malherbe children have ever seen a vehicle of their father so dirty, and Stephanus washing it with a bucket of water.

We made sandwiches and nice condensed milk tea. We were ready to leave for Mamfe. The road now was not so bad. We reached Mamfe without anymore obstacles.

Aba took us to the St Joseph catholic church. The Father there was very kind to us. He showed Hans all the rooms that we can use. Then he came back and asked, “are you all married?’  maybe we couldn’t have double rooms if we were not married. Coen and Shanhaz took a room. The four of us will sleep in our Boudoirs.

Father mamfred said Mother lillian will prepare rice for us, seeing that we are having a stew tonight. Elisme was doing Lamb shanks and a veggie pot. Immanuel who’s looking after the place went to buy Elisme some beans, tomatoes, cabbage, bananas and a big Pawpaw for pudding.

Mother Lillian laid the table for us and we had a lovely meal, while it was showering with rain again.

Father invited the Boys to meet the SGO, he is in command of the Police, Amy and Correctional services. The girls preferred it to have an early evening to catch up with their blogs and dairies.

Tomorrow we have a new guide. Father did some enquiries on Aba. He said he was not the right guide for us. We must pay him and then tomorrow his driver will take us further.

Shanhaz got something in her eye and then she has an allergy to something that stings her. The Father said they have a good clinic here. Shanhaz saw a good Dr. He decided to do a couple of laboratory tests. One was Malaria. He gave her a cortisone injection. Medication and the Malaria test were negative. Her eye is not so serious, she must see an optometrist. 

We woke up with Church bells ringing it must be 5:30AM still dark. Hans got the kettle going for coffee. They want to leave at 7 o’clock it is only 120 km to Bamenda but the road is under construction and some places very bad.

Everybody was saying their goodbyes and thanking Father Manfred for his hospitality. We put some money to say thank you and show our appreciation. We took Photos of Father Manfred and Micheal our driver. He will now go with us to Bamenda.

Tar strip through the mountains

Land Rover Slipping and sliding

The first part of the road was a tar strip, then gravel road with bad patches. We’re now so use to bad roads that this wasn’t so bad for us. Soon we find out the road is built in stretches of tar and then gravel again. The terrain was mind blowing beautiful. The vegetation was a dense forest. There are most exquisite trees with flowers, white and purple and red ones. You also get a big variety of ferns, and then some many different trees.

As we were slipping and sliding along, traffic was coming from the front. This was a mission to pass. Look for the right spot and then, pray that the other vehicle don’t slide in to your vehicle. The Chinese are building these roads. They work on the one from Mamfe to Bamenda and Ikon to Mamfe. This is an enormous contract. I wonder what the Cameroons are giving in exchange for this.

Cameroon has no donkeys so the motor bikes do most of the transport of people and goods. Children and woman are carrying the banana bunches on their backs. You cannot believe what a weight they have to carry.

There is only one school on between Mamfe and Bamenda, in a town called widicum the children stay with their relatives during the week and then weekends go to their parents.

They only vehicles you get on these roads are land Rovers and Toyota high lux bakkies . Louis and Anton will be impressed to see how they negotiate the obstacles. They are really excellent vehicles.

We were still climbing; Coen said the altitude was 3200feet. We started at 600feet at Mamfe. This was the town of new parish the vehicles were working hard through this mud and holes. One place the construction of the road gave way. It was just rocks and a waterfall coming down. This was very scary. We all got to the other side.

Micheal was leading us to take the right little roads and pass through many villages. Names like oshum, wozi, naaka, mbate bali. Shanhaz said on the radio, look out for the girls with half naked bodies and flower skirts. Father Mamfred said this is a Catholic country. Bali you can see there is stills a big Moslem presence. The truth is here in Cameroon we saw many Christian churches. The choirs sang beautiful hymns. Some nights we fell asleep with them singing. God is very present in Cameroon. This 120 km took us 6 hours. We arrive at Father Arnold who was expecting us; he made us feel really welcome. He showed us the rooms and said we are welcome to choose.

We all decided to take rooms, as the Boys want to clean the cars, we must unpack everything. The cars now were really as “Oupa Johnny” would say what a disgrace. They want to do damage control. Every one of them is complaining of their brakes. The mud at the bottom of the cars is now causing problems.

After a very tough 3 days, everybody needs a rest.

Next time the town of Bamenda.

Benin - Grand Popo -Porto Novo- Le centre Songhai -Border Nigerie

Coen and Shanhaz checking in at Grand Popo

12-09-2011 Benin Grand Popo – Porto Novo -Le centre Songhai-to Border Nigerie

Colonial style house at Grand Bay

Grand Popo was a nice rest. Sunday morning we woke up with the crystal clear ringing of CHURCH BELLS. We felt at home in Belfast you hear church bells every Sunday. We didn’t know where the church was but we could hear those singing hymns. Our own moment of praise felt so special today.

The "ERGELDVRETERS"  enjoying the Sunday lunch treat.

The rest of the day was our normal sorting out, doing washing. We walked in the moonlight alongside the beach it was low tide and we could walk easy on the wet sand.

Piet from Dakar gave us a leg of lamb. Elisme said she will make it if ever we stand over a Sunday. Today was the day, for a real South African Sunday lunch.

Piets gift Leg of Lamb with all the side dishes

Leg of lamb pot roasted on the fire in the black pot with potato’s. Our vegetables were beans with mushrooms and lentils, yellow rice with raisons, pineapple with almonds and dates. Pudding fruit salad with layers of biscuits soaked in brandy and Amarula. Everybody was really appreciating the meal and going back on memory lane to the loved once in South Africa.

Coen getting his NEW LOOK.

Mariana the Henna expert.

Coen needed a haircut and seeing that Elisme is the Hairdresser for cutting and Mariana for Henna, she was on duty. Shanhaz explain that it must be very short. Coen looks years younger with his “peonskop”  Coen had to work on the Land Cruisers Air helpers. He was not satisfied with the work the Bush Mechanics did. Early morning after a nice breakfast Shanhaz made, he got going. 2 hours later he was satisfied with his own hand work. He had the change to check all the work done before. He is sure the Land Cruisers will now have a safe journey.

Two girl busy with Elisme and her NEW LOOK 

Elisme was in for a Henna treatment. Mariana by now was the expert. Elisme booked for 10 stingers of plaits with beads. With shinning hair after the henna, she was brave enough to visit the local, you couldn’t “hairdresser” Mariana come to check, she was impressed with the ability of the girl. She plaited at a speed you couldn’t believe and so neat. Then follow the beads and then the burning of each string of hair. That scared Elisme, but it was only the stings that were combined with her own hair. Beads and strings Elisme went off with her new AFRICA LOOK. Believe it or not Hans like it.

This family has their whole house on the "BAKKIE'

Monday morning 12 September we left for the border Nigerie. We went a sms to oliver our new German friend. Thanking him for all his advice. He phoned back and said we must meet him at his house. He will get a Nigerian guy to come and see us to help with the road.

He said we must phone him at Ouidaha, and then he will meet us. He is driving a dark blue Toyota and he will switch on his lights. We must stop and wait for him. All said and done he found us.

Cotonou is the Capital of Benin and this is where Olivers house is. His father from Germany is visiting he is a very nice person. Severed us ice cold water and juice, he even offered us some beer. The boys said it was a bit early for beer, but thank you.

Oliver has 2 stunning beautiful daughter, they served us snacks. The whole family really tried to make us at home.

Olivers Nigerian friend arrived. His name Emmaneul, he got his own map and explained to the boys the do”s and don’ts of Nigeria.

We need to get Nigerian money { Niara} Emmaneul and Oliver said there is no way to get it at the border. Oliver offer to take us to the market and change it for us. ATM’s was available in Cotonou, so we could draw money for diesel. The diesel in Nigeria is not advisable to put in your vehicle, there for we must fill up with FCFA.

Emmaneul said we must not pass the border late; we will not reach our next sleep over. Hans realise it is too late to cross the border. He read about Le Centre Songhai. This is a farm where they use everything and make all the products of the land. They also offer accommodation at a reasonable price.

Mariana was running a high temperature and was not feeling well at al. Oliver said we can take her for a Malaria test, but if it is negative, she must in any case star using Coartem. Out of Hans experience, Mariana decided she will take the Coartem.  We got to the Guest house and soon Mariana was in bed. Stephanus was looking after her. She had a Marmite bread and then took her first dosage of Coartem. She went off to sleep and Stephanus was with her.

The rest of us went to Syber Cafe and Coen and Shanhaz were inspecting the farm they are very impressed they way with project is operated.

Mariana is feeling a little better. Avo and tomato sandwiches with leg of lamb and cup of soup was on the menu. Elisme said to Stephanus to call her if Maraina gets worse. She is now qualified after Hans and his ordeal.

Tuesday morning Stephanus woke us up at 6 o’clock. We have a long way to go and 2 border crossings. Benin at Pobe and then in Nigeria. Mariana was feeling better today she still runs a temperature. She was taking her Coartem, and getting better.

We reach the Benin border Post, just before there was a fake border post with a nail barrier to stop us. Coen got out; we could see he was getting agitated. Hans then join him, with his cell phone, telling the {so called officer} his phoning the commissioner. The Guy started panicking and decided we can go. Opened up and waved us goodbye.

The real border crossing was quick and no problem. Then we entered Nigeria immigration at Obelle. The officer wanted to see everybody, he was very pleasant, checking al our Visas and then gave us forms to fill in. He had to rewrite everything in his document book. That took quite a time, but eventually we got a stamp.

Duane to import the vehicles was another mission. They wanted to inspected everything, with the whole staff comes and witness, I thought. As Hans opened the groceries one lady was grabbing al the Nescafe 3 in one packet. Hans stayed calm and said she must give it back he’ll give her ONE. ELISME GOT THE IDEA THE INSPECTION WAS TO SEE WHAT THEY CAN GET.

Yellow cards this is a separate office, with a very important Officer. She checked everything, gave it back to Coen. After a while she decided we must al come and fill in forms. Hans filled Elisme’s, she sent him to call Elisme and do her own Form.

Eventually after 2 hours the carne de passage was stamped en we were on our way.

Next time Nigeria.

11-09-2011Ghana Waterfal Lodge, Mountain Paradise, Togo and Benin

7 September 2011 Wednesday we had a nourishing breakfast at the hotel Oak Plaza. Our 2 night stay was the best we had since our Safari started. This was a very well organized hotel with excellent staff.

Accra traffic will always be a congestion, 4 road lanes 6 rows of cars. Your nerves must be strong to drive here. The same rule is applicable, put your nose and go, this is how it works.  Hans and Stephanus once again managed easily through the traffic.

Stephanus mentioned after 20 km, we were still in Accra. One doesn’t realise how big Accra is. One of the most well developed cities we have yet saw. Modern buildings, Accra Mall is a very upmarket Mall and compare to the best in Africa

The Volta Bridge is a state of the art, well designed modern bridge. Alongside the road, they sell all sizes of drums, coffins in any colour. Hans said they sell cushions for a night’s rest and for the eternal sleep.

Stephanus heard on the Ghana radio 50% of Ghana’s nation is Christians. This one can see the way they advertise their business. Most of the time it is saying something about GOD and then follows what business they do.

Once in the country side, the beautiful green continues. The horizon is boarded with forest on the mountains. Hans said it reminded him of Uganda, same vegetation. It really looks as if anything will grow here. Put a stick in the ground and it will grow. Here it is more developed too. They work on the roads and in between you see very modern big houses. The hotels are neat buildings with well kept gardens.

The little villages are clean and no rubbish lying around.  Everybody looks proud of their little shops and houses. The police is helpful, but never a smile. The Ghana people do not smile easily.  Ghana was one of the most expensive West Africa countries we went through. The Cedis their currency is stronger than the Rand  1 Cedis or GH is 5 Rand.

The escarpment vegetation is very dense with huge trees. Hans took us to the Mountain Lodge for a drink. They had fresh Pineapple juice, so refreshing. The porch had a view over the rolling mountains.

Tonight we want to sleep at waterfall lodge run by a German couple. The little towns were one after the other, same selling bread, pineapples, tomatoes, bananas and avo’s

Waterfall lodge is very well maintained. Lawn to camp, bathrooms fully tiled spotlessly clean. We had a drink in the open restaurant. We met Rodger and Nadin from Sweden and 2 medical students in their final year from Belgium.

Rodger and Nadin are shipping their car from Ghana to South Africa. Hans gave them some advice for their safari in SA.

 Stephanus bought matured T-bones at Shoprite and they couldn’t wait to “braai” them. Mariana and Elisme were in for couscous and fresh Pineapples, Pawpaw, avo’s and tomatoes.

The night was cooling down. Hans was spraying lots of mosquito killers and burning coils in the vehicles.

Our four new friends joined us after their Supper in the restaurant. We were sharing our Safari experiences. We all went to the same camping sites in the same countries. Rodger and Nadine consider joining us on our trip to SA. The only problem is their Visas. They will send an email to their embassy and find out if they can get a Nigeria and Angola visa on the border. These are the only 2 countries that can be a problem for them. If that is possible they will join us in Togo and then drive with us.

Stephanus and Hans had a breakfast on the porch overlooking the waterfall. Mariana came for coffee and saw the lovely saucers with an exquisite pattern. She asked the German Lady Sabrina if she can buy it. She was so kind and gave Mariana a set, saucers and side plates. Now Mariana has something to remind her of Ghana.

 Hans got some info for Stephanus on fruit farming. They decided to go and see Tropigha Farms (Exotic fruit products for export) Stephanus is always looking for opportunities to export their fruit to these countries. May be today his going to get a good contact.

Coen and Shanhaz stayed behind at Big Milly’s to sort out the suspension of the Cruiser. They will meet with us tonight, Thursday 8 September at Mountain Paradise.

Hans and Elisme got exciting news. Gideon their grand child from Bernard and Odette was born this morning. Mum and new born baby are fine. We can only praise the Lord for that. We can’t wait to have a photo of Gideon.

We reached Mountain Paradise Lodge in the pouring rain. Hanna served us local coffee. To Mariana’s surprise she gave a demonstration, how to leave it to brew and exactly how to pour, add sugar and milk. Elisme said it was very nice.

Hans asked Tony, the Manager of Mountain Paradise, advice on the clutch of the Land Rover. He thinks the clutch is slipping. Tony phoned a guy in Hohoe and Stephanus and Hans went off to Hohoe.

Mariana and Elisme had a reading afternoon on the Porch. So nice to catch up with our books. I must say there isn’t a lot of time to do this. We drive much of the day, set up camp and prepare Supper.

The Bush Mechanic took the Landy with Hans for a test drive. Not the clutch, a gearbox mounting broke. The vehicles are taking so much punch with the roads we are doing. No new mounting available, so some wonder glue must do the job. The mechanic assured Hans it will last.

Coen had to get new rubbers for the air helper spring of the Land Cruiser. The mechanic got him the rubbers from a motor wreck.

Coen and Shanhaz arrived after 5 at Mountain Paradise. They took a room rather than camping in this weather.

Elisme was preparing Supper, Hokaai boerewors, pap and a brown sauce like Ouma Joe did. Tomatoes, Avos, roasted pumpkin seeds and cashew nut salad. Pudding was fresh pineapples and Paw paw, Mariana made.

We finish just in time with the cleaning up when the first raindrops started to fall.

We all went to bed with our reading books, it was only 7 o’clock. When raining and there are no leaks it’s nice to be in the tent. There was no wind chasing the rain, so all the windows could be left open.

Tony was going to take us to the border crossings. We need a Togo Visa, not easy to get it as these small borders. Tony is a high flyer, everybody knows him in this area. He is a very kind and helpful man.

Coffee and our moment of silence we were ready to leave. But not after Mariana and Elisme got a woven piece of material that is typical of Ghana. Hanna sells it at 10 Gh a scarf.

We exit with the help of Tony from Ghana. The officers insisted to have a photo of the boys at the Land Rover.  They saw Elisme sitting on the other side of the Landy. So they took the photo with Elisme in the picture.

Our border crossing Kpadafe on the Togo side went smooth and soon we were in Togo.

The Vegetation was much the same as Ghana, tropical and very dense. The people of Togo are very friendly, they wave and smile as we pass. The kids are just waving, nobody ask for“cado” motor bikes are still the main means of transport. They load everything on their bikes. A bag of maize is nothing, and then they speed through the potholes.

The women carry the wood on their heads. Most of the women have this poise when they walk. Must be because of the caring of stuff on their heads.

Coen and Shanaz didn’t feel like going to Lome the capital city, so we turn off to Notse. Nothing different to the road or shall I say nothing new, 54km bad road, potholes one after the other. That took us 4 hours.

 By 4 o’clock we start our usual process of finding a suitable camping site starts. This time Coen said he is going to ask the Police. They were assisting us, took us to an Auberge. There was no parking in the Auberge’s court yard. So this will not work for us. They gave us directions to another hotel. This hotel Le Berceau doesn’t have camping but a big yard. The manager said they have never done it but he’ll find out for us. Coen and Shanhaz took a room. The manager said we can park our vehicles, under the trees on the grass.

The clouds were very dark looking as if there will be showers of rain just now. Stephanus and Hans put up the awnings of the 2 vehicles. Mariana was doing Supper. Spaghetti bolognaise, avos and fresh Pineapples and Paw Paw were on the menu. Our motto for this Safari is to use what is available in each country, off the streets. Therefore we eat the food from the land. We had some delicious fruits and veggies. The tomatoes in this part are very red with a firm flesh; they just deepen in colour and don’t go bad easily. I must say we eat very healthily.

We received a sms from Rodger and Nadin, they will meet us at Notse. We will send them the GPS coordinates.

Technology is always a problem, just when you need it most. The sms’s won’t go through. Look for Wi-Fi they don’t have. We got the GPS coordinates ready for Rodger and Nadin. To no avail, no sms goes through, we tried 10 times.  We used Hans SA phone and with our new Togo MOOV simcard. Hope we will find them tomorrow in Notse.

Our night was peaceful and very quiet. Stephanus and Mariana slept until 7 o’clock when Hans woke them up and said it is 9 o’clock. Needless to say, his cell phone was SA time. They were not too impressed with Hans. Coen and Shanhaz were early birds, all packed at 7 o’clock.

Soon the 4 of us were ready to leave. We want to change Euro to CFA., and look for Rodger and Nadin. The boys went to a Forex bureau they had to sit in a queue.

Mariana and Elisme walked to the local market for some more fruit. Along the way, they met a funeral car and procession of the loved ones walking while the local band was playing a sad hymn . They were fascinated by their colourful dresses and the shirts of the men.  We stood still, in amazement until everybody had past.

At the market there were many stalls with different owners but everyone was selling the same Pineapples, Avo’s, oranges and Pampelmousses. We bought at the first stall; everybody was so friendly and begged us to buy from them to. They give their name and then ask your name. They remember your name, as we walk off to Hans and Stephanus in the vehicles they wave goodbye and say our names.

Togo people are very friendly. They were intrigued by Elisme’s hair. Elisme thinks it must be the red colour. They were touching it and lifting it, they could not understand the colour. We made friends and waved them goodbye, but not without a piece of Togo material. The colourful design will remind us of the colourful friendly people of Togo.

Today we will do a border crossing again. Togo to Benin.

Leaving Togo was very easy; Hans met a German who has been 9 years in Benin at the Togo Immigration. He suggested a road for Hans to follow and said we must visit Grand Popo.

The little towns were the same, selling all their goods. Bananas were selling every where, the small lady fingers, middles size ones and then the big Green ones for cooking purpose . Oranges, pineapples, tomato’s and avos were still available.

The Benin people are friendly they smile and wave.

We conquered a very bad road, just to reach a beautiful beach resort of years gone by. Now the Colonial building is still standing but in much need of tender loving care.

The camping site was right on the beach. Coen and Shanhaz pitched up their tent. Shanhaze was preparing Supper. She bought an interesting Palm fruit oil      reddish. The chicken had a lovely taste and colour