Blog Sossusvlei – Luderitz
Wednesday morning we left Hendriette at die PAPPOT. Hans ordered fresh bread from her. The smell of her bakery was just too tempting; you must have some of whatever it is that she is baking. The bread was not ready when we wanted to leave so she gave us 2 packets of Brotchens. Just when we walked out the girl in the bakery came passed with “MINCE VETKOEK’. Hans couldn’t leave without, so Hendriette gave him too. She has a heart of gold. If ever you are passing Maltehohe, stop at the PAPPOT or camp there - they will spoil you rotten.
 |
| Hans and Hendriette in her shop We arrived at Sossusvlei, checked in and there we bumped into Renate; she invited us to share stand 27 with them. That was really a pleasant surprise. One thing we really can say is that the People from Switzerland that we met on this trip are really very nice and very interesting. Their knowledge on Safari equipment and photography is just amazing. We learned so much from them. They love the WIDE OPEN FIELDS OF AFRICA, with nothing but nature and GOD around them. They appreciate every SUNRISE  . |
We got a big tree for their vehicle and our Land Rover; I must say the Landy looks like a Dinky toy against their Mobile home. They are so well-equipped, everything that is in a normal house they got in this vehicle. They even have a washing machine, air-con working on water, electric stove and oven and full bathroom. This is really a little Palace on wheels. They are now travelling for 12 years, 5 years of which, were spent in South America. What a life.
The swimming pool at the camp site was so inviting we just had to jump in. I have no idea what the temperature was but it was heaven in the pool. Lunch was Brocthen with tomatoes and ham pâté; Renate came up with some delicious Goulash. Rooibos tea is now standard in this heat, thanks to Morocco and Fatima who taught us to drink tea in a small glass. I think it cools us down.
 |
| Bruno and renate's BIG DADDY vehicle and Mkulu |
The Red Namib dunes were calling and we left at 16h30 to see the sunset. We entered the Park gate and had to travel 65km on a tar road to Dune 45; from there another 5 km only for 4x4. I must say that’s heavy thick sand. Bruno and Renate were not allowed to go with their vehicle the last 5 km, so we unpacked the Land Rover. Poor Bruno had to sit right at the back of the Landy, in what Elisme calls her Dressing Room. I am sure he had a rough ride, but didn’t complain. Hans was complimented by Renate on what a good driver he is in the difficult obstacle. I must say he really managed them excellently.
Sossusvlei, as the name says, still has water at the vlei; must be of the rains they had in March in the whole of Namibia. This big lake of water surrounded by Red Dunes is unimaginable and amazing. The shadows that forms on these Dunes make a different picture every where you look. As we returned Hans spotted an African Wild Cat, Renate and I we were fascinated by it. He just carried on walking on the Red Dune and little shrubs as if we were not even there.
 |
| The 4x4 road in Sossusvlei |
We had an early evening with Pasta and a platter of cheese and cold meats, which always goes down well with a bottle of good wine; NEDERBERG SHIRAZ. Hans and Elisme went for a shower that was so pleasant, spotlessly clean ablution with hot water. Then Hans sets his alarm for 4 o’clock, to see the Sun Rise we must leave when the gate opens at 5 o’clock.
One thing Hans and elisme never miss is their coffee, so Hans always spoils Elisme with coffee in bed. This morning was no different, and then they got up and closed the Land Rovers roof. We were not the first car to leave and behind us it looked like Johannesburg Commissioner Street.
Everyone was excited to see the Sun Rise from Dune 45 on this Thursday morning the 1 December 2011. We joined the long queue to conquer Dune 45, 100 meter from the top Hans decided he had enough. It was very tricky to try and sit down and not slide down to the bottom. The queue of Sun Rise viewers were struggling past us to get to the top. We patiently waited for the moment. Our cameras all set and ready for action. The view was miraculous, with shades of gold, violet and deep purple on the red dunes. Renate heard an American saying to his partner; this is even more spectacular than I could ever have imagined, better than my wildest dreams. I think that describes it all.
Hans and Elisme left. It was 1,1km to walk from where the vehicles were parked. They wanted to see the DEATH VALLEY before the sun was to High in the sky. This time it was a more comfortable walk, the Dunes were climbing gradually. You climb up the last Dune and then this spectacular view meets your eyes. Dead trees standing in this white soil, the clear is blinding your eyes, and this valley is surrounded by red Dunes, protecting the Death Valley by its arms. What amazed us were the dead trees, and they don’t get rotten - must be “HARDEKOOL TREES”?
We moved on to see the morning sun on the “VLEI’. There were lots of cars with tourists, on all the Dunes were people walking. There was a group of elderly tourists; they attempted to climb this Dune in the heat of the day. This was a killing effort to our minds. They didn’t climb straight they went zigzag and stopped every 100 m, but they continued to climb. Four of them reached the top two turned around, but they all came down safely. Just shows you, never judge a book by its cover.
 |
| Sunrise on Dune 45 Sossusvlei |
 |
| Sunset at Sossusvlei |
The Sossusvlei Canyon was next on our list; this was another surprise for us. The canyon at the one end still has water, with lots of weavers flying in and out to get water. The rocks formed a maze of little caves and in one of the holes we found a heap of branches. We couldn’t figure out how those branches got there. Hans’s explanation was that there must be a tunnel with a stream coming down when it rains that starts somewhere on the outside. Who will know?
Back at the camp we packed. They wouldn’t allow us to only pay for camping; we had to pay for park fees too - although we were going to leave the next day at 7 o’clock and will not enter the Park again. We went for a swim and then looked at Renate’s photos. She is an excellent photographer with lots of experience. After a Rooibos tea and Hendriette’s rusks, it was time to say goodbye. We were going South and then north, but with a promise to meet us at the Moon landscape after Christmas.
 |
| Sossusvlei Canyon |
Michel told us of a very nice camping place in the Red Dunes not far from Ais – GUNSBEWYS. We headed on towards it. The terrain changed once again. The Dunes and Mountains were knit one slip one, but it was fascinating. The colours were a display of reds, deep purple, sand colour and then al the shades of dark brown to black.
The gate and the sign post at Gunsbewys was an old cattle farm gate, with all the squeaks, falling in the sand and needing a good push the last 2 steps. The road was so straight from the gate to the farm house it could have been done by a dumpy level. The Sunset photos we took from the wooden deck were of this road leading to the blue purple mountains.
Gurtruda, the owner of the farm, wasn’t home; her assistant, Clifford, was very professional and helped us to get our camp site ready. The neighbour shot an Oryx that morning and we were lucky enough to buy the fillet and some chin bones for a nice bean soup.
Each camp site had his own cold water shower and an organic toilet with a paved area, slate table and a barbeque nicely sunken away so that the flames don’t jump out and light the field.
Calamari with couscous was on Hans’s wish list in this Namib Desert. Our candles were burning while a Juvenal Gosh hawk was sitting on a pool a few steps away from us. He was crying his heart out for his ‘CRUEL MOTHER’ who has left him because he is now big enough to look after himself. It was very clear he didn’t feel the same way!
We had a view over the waterhole where all the animals came to drink. Soon we had another mother coming with her chicks. She was very protective and watching them all proceeding to the water. She was not very comfortable with us looking from the tree behind the fence. She made very sure we are not moving then she chased the little ones to the water.
 |
| Juvenal Gosh Hawk, crying for her mother |
The next morning after our usual routine and a very nice hot water shower we went to see the photos of the late owner. He was a teacher and a Doctor who loved the RED DUNES and GUNSBEWYS. He wrote many books on different topics. He took photos with a 16mm camera. When a film producer saw that, he changed his career and became a producer of film. We were hooked on all the books and pictures, which took us back to another decade. This is the story of people in Namibia 100 years ago. This was when it was still unspoilt. We realised how hard it was in this country, but they loved it here and made it their home.
We stopped at Ais to get some diesel; next to the Garage was a small little Tea Garden. They served homemade Pies and toasted cheese and ham sandwiches. Hans had a Beer which went down as cool as can be in this heat.
We read about the wild horses on our way to Luderitz, so we were on the lookout. As always Hans spotted them. We wanted to take a picture but it was very far, then we saw them turning off to the view point where they drink water.
There was a well built hide with clean tables and benches where you can sit and watch the wild Horses, Ostrich, Springbuck and Oryx. We were so lucky they were all there when we came.
 |
| Brave flower on the Dunes in the Desert |
The sign posts were warning, to be cautious of the wind along the road, while we experienced the beat of the sand on the Land Rover. The wind was getting fierce as we got closer to Luderitz. The poor Landy was getting sandblasted and Hans had to hang on to the wheel as the wind was extremely strong, may be Gail force winds. This was really not a pleasant day to view Luderitz, so we drove through the town and watched all the nice German buildings. It will be very nice to walk through those little streets - maybe when the children come.
We found SHEARWATER. This is the best hidden secret where you will find the best and cheapest Oysters. We spent a very nice afternoon there; the personnel are so willing to help. Soon Hans met Margarette who owns a guest house and our problem for December was something of the past.
 |
| View of the Beach at Luderitz |
CAMP IS OUT IN DECEMBER AT LUDERITZ, you can never fight against the wind.
‘KLEIN AIS” was our choice for a camping site tonight. We went to see the camping site, it was beautiful and in the mountains. Each camping site had its own split pole fence, a bench with table and a barbeque. They are all build next to a big tree; you need a tree in this heat. One thing I can say, the Camp sites in Namibia are on average in a good condition but they don’t come cheap anymore. I think that’s why so many visitors to Namibia prefer to bush camp. Gone are the days of an affordable camping holiday in Namibia.
We had our coffee and worshipped the Lord, while the Sun was rising over the beautiful Mountains in al shades of gold. Rosh Pinah was our next stop. On the way we saw a lot of Drilling machines busy drilling, a guy on the road told us they are drilling for Sink. Rosh Pinah has a lot of Sink mines. They owe their existence to Sink. We were surprised by the size of the town; there was even a Mall. Spar was a shop with a big variety of products. The WIMPY sign made us longing for a Wimpy coffee; we didn’t have a wimpy coffee for 7 months. We followed the signs, sadly the Wimpy was closed. So we have to wait, how long?????
 |
| A view over the mighty Gariep from our bedroom |
 |
| Hans the BIG FISHERMAN |
We thought we were Adam and Eve. When it was shower time, with nobody insight, it was that free feeling when standing under the hot water of the ‘pig bladder’. I thought this is the closest we can get to heaven on this earth. The stars were so bright; I think this is where the song came from ‘TWINKLE TWINKEL LITTLE STAR’. The moon was growing and its light helped us to see the bushes and the rocks in the water. We didn’t need a light, the Moonlight was enough.
Sunday morning we were up Gariep River. The Sun lit up the sky behind the Mountains. We enjoyed our coffee and Rusks while waiting to take our pictures. The fish were tempting Hans; they were jumping high out of the water. He cast his line in the water and waited, but nothing happened. Then he asked Elisme to make him some bait. The recipe for that was bread, curry and egg yolk, and this must be kneed. The rucksack was packed with mugs filled with Al Bran, milk and sugar and flasks with ROOIBOS and HONEY - we were ready for the big fishing expedition.
 |
| Sunrise over the Gariep |
Our walk down the River was a very slippery one with steep banks going down to the River. The footpath was narrow. The tree branches were hanging low over the path; we had to crawl many places. Hans was determined to get to the rapids where the fish was.
He got his rod and did what a good fisherman does, he casted and waited. The excited call announced that he had a fish, the excitement was better than the fish. We ended up with 3 fish and then went back all the way to the Land Rover. The Sun was now really coming down fierce on us, the temperature rising to the high thirties. The awning of the Landy was a welcoming shelter, as there were no big trees.
To cool ourselves we went to the rapids close to our camp and splashed ourselves with water. This was our only way of survival. We spent a day reading and taking photos. The two of us are trying to manage the cameras on MANUAL. We are learning from an article in a WHEEL magazine. The further we get the more respect we get for all these people taking STUNNING pictures.
Fish was on our menu for the evening. Hans was cleaning the fish. That was not so easy; the little bones were all over. Elisme prepared a curry sauce and mash. The camp fire was burning with inviting flames over the River, long after the Moon was on its way to the West. Hans and Elisme were watching the flames in all the orange colours and listing to the night sounds of water, combined with birds trying to get a good night’s rest.
Monday morning we woke up with a feeling of joy, it was just so nice to think we are crossing the border to our own SOUTH AFRICA today.
Sendelingsdrift was our aim to cross in to South Africa. The officials at Sendelingsdrift on the Namibian side were so efficient and did their job in minutes. What a difference to the rest of the border crossings we had. We compliment them for excellent work. Then we proceeded to the PONT, here there is no bridge so we had cross the Gariep River which is the border between South Africa and Namibia with the PONT. This was a quick transfer and we stepped on our Birth country’s soil.
 |
| South Africa our Country of birth on the other side |
 |
| Mkulu and Elisme on the Pont crossing to SA |
We arrived after 6 months 15 days, 500km in Spain and Portugal and 26 400km in Africa. Sometimes no roads, Desert and Mud, Police blockades and many times facing an AK 47 riffle. We were safely back in South Africa. We can praise the Good Lord for looking after us. We give him all the honour, we can say from our hearts there is for certain a living GOD.
On South African ground the Immigration Officers were so friendly and made us feel WELCOME. At the Petrol station we met Sujata Singh and her husband. They are from Sandton, Johannesburg and doing a Safari in the Richtersveld. Sujata and her husband were born in India; he moved to New York and stayed there for 25 years, till she convinced him to come to South Africa. She moved to South Africa 10 years ago. They both love South Africa and the Safari thing is top on their list. They were very impressed with the layout off the Land Rover. We were enjoying their company and left as friends, with promises of visiting each other in 2012.
Last year we stayed at SPOGPLASIE with ANNMARIE and SALOMIE in the RICHERSVELD close to ALEXANDERBAY. The farm overlooks the GARIEP RIVER. The entrance to the farm is so inviting, blue and white painted farm implements welcome you at the front door. The LAPA is colourful and inviting in a theme off blue and white. They have a barbeque with a big fire burning, to serve all the guests with Annmarie’s “BOEREKOS “. This goes with their warm hospitality. They insist that all the guests come together in the Lapa. It is so homely, with a glass of red wine everybody soon relaxes. That was what Hans and Elisme needed now.
We arrive at SPOGPLASIE to find everything just the way we remembered it from December 2010. Our tree was still waiting for us; Hans parked the Land Rover with our Umbrella, table and benches. We were at home with a mug of coffee. This will be our home for the next 10 days till we meet the Children at Mac Doogles bay. We will return to Swakopmund for Christmas and New Year.
 |
| Spogplasie and Elisme relaxing |
The CRAYFISH season opened on Saturday, we all bought permits and gate entry fees. ALEXKOR MINE opens the restricted area for people for fishing and Crayfish.
Our year long friends from Pretoria, André and Freda, came on Saturday on their way to Namibia for the December holidays. They will do Namibia and Botswana.
Sunday morning we all got up at 5:30 am to be at the gate of ‘HOLGAT’, the restricted area, for our day of CRAYFISH catching. Johan and Willem were ready in their diving suites. The rest of us were there to give moral support, with the coffee, sherry and container to put the crayfish in.
Holgat was a very rocky terrain with deep turquoise pools of water. This was where the crayfish were clinging to the rocks. Although it was low tide the waves were fierce. George, who is a child of the Richtersveld, said it was because of Springtide. The two divers were having a roof time in the pools. But soon our container was getting full.
On the beach they have a nice spot behind a dune, with a fire place. They use a milk can that has been cut to boil the crayfish with some see bamboo. George and Willem know how to do this; you can see this is not their first time. A big fire is built around the milk can and then from boiling it takes 17minutes. They then take the crayfish out on a big smooth stone; looks as if this stone was specially made as a serving counter.
We never new eating a Crayfish can be so much fun. Where we come from we think thatonly the TAIL of the crayfish is eatable. Willem junior is only 13 years old and he knows all about the sea. He was the one with Antjie who showed us to break every little leg from the body and how much meat you get from that. Antjie opened the head and there was the liver, which burst from the heat. To take out the intestine from the tail is quite a process.
Salome, who organized this outing for us, was helping and seeing to all our needs. She made snacks and sandwiches to keep us going while waiting for the Crayfish.
The wind was blowing at 45km/h but with the Dune and the cars parked to give shelter, we had a lovely day. To be with these ‘NAMAQUALANDERS” is such a privilege. My father will truly say “hulle is die sout van die Aarde” and with that we all agree.
Annmarie, as always, waited for us with a real home cooked meal. The hospitality of these people has no limits. After a very pleasant and enjoyable meal we all went for coffee on the Lapa. Then it was time for bed.
The four of us will remember this day in the Richterveld, with lots of stories to tell.
We left for Mac Doogles bay to meet our children after 7 months. The reunion was one of the HIGHLIGHTS TO END OUR SAFARI.
One of the many things we learned on this Safari is the KINDNESS of STRANGERS and leaving as FRIENDS. Therefor we need to mention once again everybody, who helped to make our AFRICAN DREAM come true.
To our living GOD, that protected us, and who had a chain of ANGELS around us on this journey, thanks for the GREAT OPPORTUNITY.
First to our Partners, Stephanus and Mariana, Coen and Shanhaz - without you, this DREAM would never have been a DREAM. Each one of you was so special in his or her own way. Thanks for that. Be sure if we must choose partners again, you will be the first we will invite.
Our children running PAM GOLDING, Louis, Andreas and Anton, you were doing a great job. Carlien, Tascha and Michelle supporting them during this time, we thank you. Andre who was managing the BELFAST ROYAL HOTEL, you did well under difficult circumstances. Thanks that we could live our DREAM as ‘ERFGELDVRETERS”. We saw that you are ALL capable of running the Businesses, therefor our next JOURNEY to SOUTH AMERICA is on the cards.
Morocco - we still remember and will always remember FATIMA and her family looking after the 6 of us.
Mauritian - the professional way the Staff of the South African Embassy, Johan Spies the Ambassador and Derrick answered all our questions.
Senegal - Piet ”Posduif” and Gerhard for them nothing was too much. Gerhard opened his home for us with AIRCON, WHEN THE TEMPERATURE WAS RUNNING BETWEEN 45 AND 55 DEGREES. Piet took us to see Dakar and Gore Island.
The Gambia -there Cindy was looking after us, she opened her own home to make us feel so at home.
Mali - we stayed at the SLEEPING CAMEL, Vivian from the South African embassy was so helpful with our questions. She is a true South African Ambassador.
The Gambia - words can never thank Jimmy, Willem and Marjolein for all their kindness. We will wait for you in South Africa to do a little PAYBACK.
Koos Moorcraft helping with info to get us through Angola.
Namibia at Epupa falls - Koos Verwey who let us camp there for 10 days as his guests. That was what we needed after 6 months of packing and driving everyday.
Spogplasie - where we could camp under our tree with Annmarie and Salomi. They treated us like family, Annmarie was even asking for our washing every morning. The real “Boerekos “everyday was really a treat for us.
To all people who were kind to us, and which we haven’t mentioned, thanks from our hearts.
To all the thousands of readers, we hope you enjoyed the journey with us and that it was just as interesting for you.
