Friday, December 23, 2011
Tuesday, December 06, 2011
Blog Moon Landscape -Mirabib -Maltehohe
21 November Monday we left Swakopmund to find a place to camp in the desert. We took the C28 towards the desert. Elisme was not at all impressed with this landscape. Hans told her they call this area the ‘MOONLANDSCAPE’ this was not landscape and were not kind on the eye. From horizon to horizon there was no dunes it was like a very big RUGBY FIELD, nothing no tree no animal just nothing.
Hans turned off to the left, after a few kilometres, as if from nowhere, there’s this stunning ‘MOONLANDSCAPE’ with grey and shades of white rolling hills. Still there was no life or plants. This terrain was alive all though there was no life. This was an extremely different view. I think this is what Neil Amstrong thought when we reached the moon.
We now were driving round corners and hills, the next turn we took, this OASIS. The green of these Palm trees were just so intense. We could see this is a well maintained farm. The sign posts were very clear and NO ENTRE. Hans parked and went to the office.
They allowed us to camp at their camping site, which is not yet fully operational. This was really a very nice Oasis in the desert. The facilities are tiled with beautiful tiles. The warm water works with a ‘DONKEY’ but there is steaming hot water morning noon and night. The camping sites are nicely marked with palm stumps shielding then each camping site has its own barbeque and table with benches, with a nice piece of green grass, big trees for shading.
We thought to stay here for 3 nights. The Swakop River was right next to this Oasis, so the underground water table must be very high. They have water coming from the river flowing through the camp, a big dam to swim in.
Goanikontes this is the farms name, the owner Mr. Metzer, gave us a leaflet from one of the first owner’s daughter. This was most interesting to read. They came from the Cape and had to face very difficult circumstances. They came by ox wagon and met a lot of Missionaries and trekkers on their way. The country full of lions, buffalos’, Crocodiles a Rhino’s were everywhere. Then they had to face the Hottentots, which was after their oxen. Water was one of the major problems. When they reach Goanikontes they thought they were close to heaven. This is the same feeling we got when we laid our eyes on this green Oases.
Rodger and Nadin had very bad news about their container,. The container consists out of 2 cars and 2 motor bikes, so 6 persons are waiting for the arrival of their vehicles. The arrival date from the company DELMAS was the 21 November then changed to 22 November. On the 22 November they were told the container never came South it went to Lome, They can’t tell them when it will be picked up, they THINK it will only arrive in WALVIS on the 25 JANUARY 2012. They are devastated all their plans have to change, and still they are not sure. Nobody can confirm the date. One of the guys is an attorney and he says there is nothing they can do, LOOK AT THE SMALL PRINT.
Hans and Elisme offered to take them with them till their vehicle arrives, if we can get a confirmed date. Rodger and Nadin will let us know as soon as they have the information.
So Hans and Elisme left for the Namib Naukluft Park. the same view met their eyes as on their way to the Moonlandscape. This was once again miles of nothing. Then slowly the terrain started to change. The Kuiseb River flow here, or shall I say the Kuiseb River bed is here. There is no water in the River. Hans drove down to the River bed, to have coffee. Just as we settled a vehicle came to stop there. Hans went to talk to the guy. He was from NAM WATERWORKS. He came to fix the equipment measuring the water when the river comes down.
The sand was very thick and Hans was slowly moving out of the sand after deflating his tyres. He moved on to the camping cite Homeb . This was a nice shady site with lots of big trees. They had a table and chairs with a fire place.
Elisme served them Curry fish and Seed bread. After a shower they went to read. The night was very dark with no living soul in the vicinity and no moon. The only sound they heard was some wild horses very far. They saw them on their way to the camping site. Milly would have been very impressed with the beautiful stallion leading the herd.
Early morning coffee was a feast and as always so special. Their second cup or shall I say mug of coffee, they had at an old mine shaft. Hans was fascinated with the depth of this shaft. Vandalises broke a 30 cm block of concrete to open part of this shaft. Hans throw a stone in it, we listened how it was falling, according to that sound it must be very deep, it was rolling for at least 60 seconds. We have no idea what they were mining in this National Park, but all activities stopped.
We saw our first Zebras, Oryx, Springbuck and Ostricts and our FIRST WARTHOG all together in the field at one spot. This as a magnificent sight, open plains of grass as far as the eye can see 360 degrees and then ONE SPOT with al these species together.
On a few bigger trees in a little slope Hans spotted 2 very big black birds. It was difficult to identify them. I am sure Suzette and Marlien would have been able to do it. After taking pictures and at the camp, we could identify them as LAPPED FACED VALTURE
Mirabib we saw the photo in a magazine. This looked like the most idyllic place to be. So Elisme asked Hans to make this our next camping spot. Once again she realised how misleading a photo can be. Her mind’s eye was telling her this is at the sea, so no SEA only grasslands to the horizon. I must say there rock formation has extra ordinary layers of white and shades of al the autumn colour. The boulders are not your normal size they are HUGE.
There were many camping sites each one looked more appalling. We made our choice and settle in with all our things nice to have, and looking forward to an afternoon of peace and tranquillity.
We made Rooibos tea with honey and Brocthen with German Salami tomato’s and sweet chilli. Siesta was in this afternoon, we each have a nice story book we would like to read.
After coffee we went to explore the environment. On a hill we saw a plaque stone with 2 German names. They were in memory of husband and wife with a small vase of flowers next to it. They must have been very fond of this place. They kept Hans and Elisme bury for a while wondering why will somebody prefer to be rest in peace her. This is so isolated from the world. I can really say the quietness can scare you here.
Back at our camping site, Hans saw the bees, first just a couple then hundreds. We realised we are in trouble. They were all over in our tent and at our camping equipment. We rushed to pack and Hans closed the tent. Then we Doomed inside the car, opened the back door. They flew out and we could get in the car and drove off to another campsite.
Early morning we woke up with the zoom of the bees. We knew we were in trouble, so Hans got up and Doom the leak at the water tank. Then we made our coffee and left. Coffee time was at a Picnic spot overlooking the Kuiseb Canyon.
Hans saw on the GPS. Henno Martin Shelter 1.1.km from where we were standing. We thought it a good idea to go and see it for ourselves. The rock formation here was again totally different. I think GOD had his concrete mixer here; it looked like tennis ball shape stones mixed in concrete, to form huge rocks. You can’t think that all the mountains we saw were different. I think a good idea for all the fashion designers are to come on a Safari to Namibia and see what shades and texture you get here.
The Shelter was an overhanging rock which provided shade and protection against the rain IF IT EVER RAINS HERE. The view over the rolling hills was terrific.
Back to the Land Rover we were glad for the fridge with ice cold water. Not a very good time for a walk in the desert 12 o’clock.
We moved on to our overnight camping site Laruvlei, there are nice trees and tables in a good condition. We saw no game but lots of little weavers.
The camp fire was very inviting lots of dry branches which were lying around. Our Supper was Brat Wurst and Spuds with a butter sauce. Then we had a nice warm shower and retreat to our Boudoir.
Elisme went in the tent to read, Hans followed her. Just then they heard the zooming of the Bees again. They were following them. Now nothing was outside, so Elisme said leave them they will go away when it is dark. Hans realised they are drinking the water from a small leak on one of the water tanks.
The Lesson to learn out of this is, careful for a leak in your water tank.
Sunset they left, but we preferred to shower inside the dressing room tonight. Not one of us was in for a bee stung.
The valleys birds all had the same idea as us. They wanted to sleep underneath these rocks where we were camping. Some were prepared to put up a big fight for the best seat for the night. May be soon as they have sorted each other they will be sleeping.
Early morning we left for The Gamsburg Mountains. We took some coffee in our mugs and at a spot with lots of Oryx, Zebra’s and Springbuck we stopped to have our ‘MOMENT OF SILENTS’ once again we realised how privileged we are, Only the birds and game to watch us, in this creation of GOD.
The view point at the Gamsburg Mountains was one with a warning ‘STAY ON THE ROAD” then you realise how easy you can fall over the edge of these rocks. No warning just straight down.
Apple strudel with cream and coffee was up for lunch at Solitaire. Lasted time we were here with Daniel and Alida the Apple strudel was a disappointment. I must say this time it was much better
We needed to draw money, in this part of Namibia a ATM is very rear. We saw a sign at the shop, ‘OUT OF ORDER’. Elisme knew they were in trouble, the next ATM will only be at Luderitz, and their diesel will not make it. The shop assistant was so kind he swiped the card and change for cash. Just shows you the Namibian people are kind to tourists.
Hans took the road to Maltahohe over the SPREETBURG MOUNTAIN PASS. This was a spectacular road. We crossed the TROPIC CAPRICON for the 7 th time, and not the EQUATOR. We’re very conscious that we are in a different climate very dry to that of the Equator. I don’t know what is the best or worse the DRY HEAT or the HIGH HUMIDITY. My skin knows, I was looking 10 years younger at the EQUATOR. Now our skins are so dried out it is only one wrinkle on the other, SO NO MORE PHOTOS’.
Sunday afternoon in Malteheho nobody works nothing is open, no answer on any cell phone. This town really dies on a Sunday. We tried even the Hotel, Elizabeth, Henry and Tobias will be glad to hear, NO ANSWER at the hotel. So we went back to the PAPPOT CAMPING SITE. Hans drove around the fencing, he saw a man walking, asked him what the possiblality to camp here for the night is. He said he stays here for 4 months now, he is sure they won’t mind if he opens for us. So we camped here for the night.
The Owners are Mannetjies and Hendriette we met them Monday morning. We thought to stay another night and Hans needed to clean the Land Rover from all the dust.
Exploring Maltehohe was on the program for Monday afternoon, may be the little hotel will be open. Hans and Elisme walked down to the town, I must say the town only exists out of a Agri shop, garage Butchery and the Hotel, sad but all the other shops have closed down. The guy at the hotel told us the town had its excitants to the ‘karakul” farmers and since GREEN PEACE has closed down the industry. This was now becoming a ghost town. The hotel building was 100 years old and still the original. The memorabilia in this hotel can keep you busy for days. They have a photo collation of many of the previous citizens like Dr Krantz and then the ‘JUKSKEI CLUB” with all their trophies and photo’s. We visit the butchery to buy some nice Lamb chops to braai the evening. We saw in front of the butchery stood a Chevrolet Fleet line Van in a superb, condition. The owner told us he got this Chevy in 1972 January and he got married February 1972 so his wife can go not his Chevy, he has it longer then his wife. This was an interesting afternoon spent with the locals of Maltehohe.
A mobile home moved in late afternoon, with once again Swiss people. Soon they came over and we had a very nice chat. Believe it they toured SOUTH AMERICA for 5 years, how lucky can people be. They showed us their coffee table book on that. Renate says she is not a professional photographer but here photo’s speaks something else. She can really send them to National Geographic. They convinced us that SOUTH AMERICA will be our next destination, if the Louis, Andreas. Anton and Andre will keep the business going.
Next time Sossiesvlei and Luderitz
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